Bar Table

I know a lot of you are like me in that you build to get exactly what you want while save money, and I love the cost factor of these plans.  If you already have a scrap piece of 3/4″ plywood, the materials to build the rest of this table are about $10.  Seriously.  If you have to buy a 2’x4′ sheet of plywood, the whole table will cost about $25.  So, lets say you want to build the table and 4 bar stools for your family and have nothing to start with.  That’s a whole dining set for $65!  That’s half the cost of ONE bar stool if you bought the original from West Elm!

Materials:

Wood:

  • 1 – 1×3 @ 4 feet long
  • 3 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1/4 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

 

Hardware and Supplies:

  • 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Medium Grit Sandpaper
  • Primer or Wood Conditioner
  • Paint or Stain

Cut List:

Boards:

  • 2 – 1×3 @ 21″ – Side Aprons
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 45″ – Center Base
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 21″ – Top/Bottom Sides
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 42″ – Table Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 45″ – Center Aprons

Plywood:

  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 45″ x 21″ – Table Top

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Step 1:

Attach your top/bottom and table legs together using your Kreg Jig.  Remember to place your pocket holes for the bottom piece strategically facing the bottom of the frame and toward the interior of the table on your top piece so you have no holes to fill later.

Step 2:

Set aside your table legs for a moment to build the table top.  (Pictured above is a bottom view of your table top.)  Make sure to pre-drill all of your pocket holes as shown above in your table top before attaching anything.  This will help you in later steps.  When attaching your 2×4 center aprons to your plywood top, make sure each of the edges are flush.

Step 3:

Attach the legs you built in step 1 to the table top you built in step 2 using the pocket holes that you predrilled and some wood glue!

Step 4:

Attach 1×3 side aprons into the 2×4 from your table top using your Kreg Jig.  Remember to drill those pocket holes from the inside to hide them!  The bottom of your 1×3 will not be exactly even with the bottom of your 2×4.  Don’t worry, it’s part of the design!

Step 5:

Attach your 2×2 center base in between your two table legs using pocket holes drilled from the underside. It should sit centered on each side, leaving a 9 3/4″ gap on the bottom side 2x2s (not including the legs).

Finishing:

Finish your project as desired.  Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.oldpaintdesign.com/2012/01/11/soprano-bar-table/

 
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BBQ Grill and Cooler Table

Today I’m going to show you How to Build a Patio Cooler and Grill Cart Combo.  The grilling season is upon us!  The cool weather is making an exit and the heat, BBQ, and outdoor parties are here.  Two things I’ve been thinking of building are a patio cooler and a grill cart.  Since my back deck is not huge I decided to kill two birds with one stone and show you guys how to make a DIY patio cooler box and BBQ cart in one.

The project is made from cedar to withstand the elements and give it a nice classy look.  The heart of the cooler box side is 48 qt cooler with plenty of capacity for your parties.  The grilling side has a storage compartment and hooks to hold all your BBQ accessories.  The lid for the storage box is flush with no hinges or handles giving you a 22″ x 20″ landing space for food and other barbecue fixings.  The assembly is easy and straight forward so read ahead and get ready to get your summer outdoor entertaining game on point!

Materials:

  • (13) 12′ 1×4 cedar boards
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Exterior Screws
  • 48qt Cooler
  • 3″ utility hinges
  • Front handle
  • Bottle Opener
  • Single Hooks
  • Hose Bib
  • (2) 1/2″ Male PVC Adapter
  • 1/2″ PVC Pipe
  • 1/2″ PVC Nut

I built the cooler box and grilling station entirely out of 1×4 cedar.  My local lumber supplier had 12′ boards that were rough on one side and I was able to get them for half the price of what you would pay at the big box store for the cedar 1x4s.  If this is an option for you then you can save some significant money going this route.

Building the Patio Cooler Base

You’ll start by building the top frame based on the size of your cooler.  The top of my cooler was 23-3/4″ x 13-1/2″.  If your cooler is a different size then you’ll need to adjust the top frame accordingly and see if you need to adjust the base as well.

Cut 2 boards to 50″ for the long top frame pieces and 3 boards to 13-1/2″ for the short top frame pieces.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of the short pieces and assembly with 1-1/4″ pocket screws.  This will give a 15-3/4″ opening for the grilling storage box.

Cut 8 boards down to 38-1/4″ long for the legs.  Rip down 4 of these boards to narrow leg pieces at 2-3/4″ wide.  Use a pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes in the 2-3/4″ pieces in the top 13″ of the leg and another hole 2″ up from the bottom.

Join the narrow leg pieces to the wide pieces glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws on the top and bottom.  In the gap where there are no pocket holes, use clamps to hold the joints tight.  Make two legs with the narrow pieces on the right side and two with the narrow pieces on the left side.  This lets you have the wide face of the legs showing on the front and back of the cooler.

Cut 8 pieces of side cladding to 16-1/2″ long.  Use a trim router to route a 1/16″ 45 degree chamfer on the outer edges of each board.  This will give the boards a nice beadboard look when butted together.

Lay two legs down and starting from the top, attach 4 side cladding pieces to the legs with two 1-1/4″ screws on each side of each board. Repeat this process with the other 2 legs to form 2 side assemblies.

Cut 4 pieces of front cladding and 4 pieces of back cladding to 44-1/2″ long, and route a chamfer on the long edges just like the side cladding.  Side the side assemblies on edge and starting at the top, attach the front cladding to the sides with 1-1/4″ screws.

Flip the assembly over and now attach the 4 back cladding pieces to the sides.  Now you have the base of your patio cooler and grill cart combo!

Cut two 3/4″ x 3/4″ top front cleats 14″ long and one top side cleat 11″ long.  Predrill holes on the bottom for attaching the top frame later.  Secure the 11″ cleat to the middle of the right side flush with the top and secure the 14″ cleats to the front and the back 1-1/2″ away from the right side.

Make the Grill Cart Storage Bay and Bottom Shelf

Attach two 1″ wide 14″ long cleats to the inside of the front and back walls, 18″ from the right side.  Cut four 15″ wide storage divider boards and glue and screw them to the cleats to create the storage bay.



Cut and install two 17-1/4″ cleats to the front and back of the storage bay.  Put them 3/4″ up from the bottom of the bay then attach five 15″ storage bay bottom pieces to the cleats with screws from underneath.  The middle board will need to be trimmed to fit.


Attach the top frame to the base with pocket hole screws on the cooler side and with 1-1/4″ screws through the cleats in the storage bay.  Use glue on all the top surfaces for a good hold.

Cut two 46″ long 1″ wide shelf stretchers and eleven 16-1/2″ shelf slats.  Attach the slats to the stretchers with glue and a brad nailer.  For consistent spacing start with the outer slats and then secure the middle slat.  From there fill in the gaps spacing the slats 3/4″ apart.

Test fit your cooler in the opening and remove the cooler drain plug.  Reach a marker through the cooler drain and mark a spot on the left side of the patio cooler.  Drill a 1-1/4″ hole in the side for the plumbing fittings.

Flip the grill cart combo over and put the cooler in place.  Secure the cooler by installing three 15″ cooler supports into the front and back with 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Making the Cooler Box and Grill Bay Lids

Flip the cooler back over and cut four 15-3/4″ long storage bay lid pieces.  Put a chamfer on the boards with the trim router like the body cladding.  Drill a 1″ hole in the middle of one board and chamfer the top edge of the hole.

Cut two 13-1/2″ by 1″ wide lid battens.  Line the lid boards up together with the board with the hole at one end and fasten the boards together using the battens, glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

Make 4 small 1-1/2″ x 2″ storage lid tabs.  Round one corner of the tabs and install them in the top corners of the storage bay with glue and brad nails into the top corners of the storage bay.

Build the frame around the lid by based on your own cooler measurements.  The sides should be 3/4″ taller than your lid.  I cut two lid front/back pieces to 25-1/4″ by 2″ and two side piece 13-1/2″ by 2″.  Join the lid frame with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.



Cut 3 lid support cleats to 13-1/2″ by 1″ and attach them to the front and back with pocket holes. Place the outer cleats so they are directly over the side ridges on your lid that mate with the cooler body. You’ll be screwing into the lid later and don’t want the screws to pop through the underside of the lid.

Make 5 lid top pieces out of 25-1/4″ boards.  Route the 45 degree chamfers on these boards just as the others.  Layout the boards on the top and cut the center piece to width to fit.  Use super glue and temporarily affix the full size boards to the edges of the frame.

Flip the lid over and permanently attach the lid boards to the cleats with 1-1/4″ screws.

Flip the lid over again on top of the cooler.  Now secure the top to the cooler lid with 1-1/4″ screws through the outer cleats into the lid.  Attach the center board with wood glue on the center cleats and super glue on the outer edges.  The super glue will bond quickly and the wood glue will give a long lasting hold.  Assembling the lid this way give you a super clean look with no nail or screw holes…SCORE!

Installing the Cooler Drain & Lower Shelf

Remove the drain from your cooler and keep the washer on the inside.  Get two 1/2″ PVC male threaded adapters, a length of 1/2″ PVC, a 1/2″ nut and a hose bib for the outside of the cooler.

The length of the PVC pipe will vary per installation.  Cut a hose bib mounting block to 3-1/2″ by 3-1/2″ and drill a 1″ hole through it for the male adapter.  You may need to drill a larger hole with the collar if the fitting won’t go through.  Glue up the final PVC parts and install them on the hose bib and mounting block.  Put wood glue around the mounting block and insert the assembly into the cooler and lock in place using the nut in the cooler.

Sand everything down to 150 grit and apply your finish at this point.  I used a Spar Urethane made for outdoors.

After the finish is dry, install the lower shelf so the bottom is 2-1/2″ up from the floor.  I would recommend turning the patio cooler on it’s top to do this vs. laying it on its back like I did

Hardware for the Patio Cool / Grill Cart Combo

The cooler lid gets 3″ utility hinges and a handle on the front.

I added a bottle opener on the front and 2 hooks on the grilling side of the cart as well.

I put my inserts for my STOK Quattro grill into the storage side and it worked great to hold them all.  I just put some little dividers in there to keep them separated.

Alright, you’re all finished up!  Put the patio cooler and grill cart combo out on your deck and let the good times roll this summer.

The original plan can be found at http://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-patio-cooler-grill-cart-combo-plans/

 
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BBQ Table

This plan makes a table 47 inches wide, 22 inches deep and 36 inches high with the top added. All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.

Materials:

  • (8) 1×4 @ 8′
  • (2) 1×6 @ 8′
  • 1 1/4″ screws

Cut List:

  • (8) 1×4 @ 35 1/4″ – Legs
  • (2) 1×4 @ 38″ – Top rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 42″ – Bottom rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 11 1/2″ – Top rails for sides
  • (2) 1×4 @ 18 1/2″ – Bottom rails for sides
  • (11) 1×4 @ 17″ – Shelf slats
  • (4) 1×6 @ 36″ – Top
  • (2) 1×6 @ 22″ – Top

Step 1 – Make the two Sides


Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make each side. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 11 ½ inches long, one piece 18.5 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 11 ½ inch piece. The 18 ½ inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 18 ½ inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled. Also drill pocket holes on the outside edges of the legs as shown below for fixing the sides to the front and back frames.

Step 2– Make the front and back frames


Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make the front and back frames. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 38 inches long, one piece 42 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 38 inch piece. The 42 inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 42 inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled.

Step 3– Join the sides and front and back together


Join the sides and front and back frames together as shown below. This is why the pocket holes were put on the outer edges of the inside of the sides.

Step 4 – Add the shelf pieces


Add the 17 inch long pieces of 1 by 4 as the shelf supports. Drill pocket holes on both ends of each 17 inch piece and attach them flush with the top edge of the bottom rail. Check the exact dimensions of your boards as they may not be exactly 3.5 inches wide. For mine I worked out the spacing between each board had to be 11/32 inches. It helps to cut a spacer from scrap wood to use.

Step 5 – Make the top


Make the top from the 1 by 6 pieces as shown below.

Tip : If using Cedar then I have found the 1 by 6 boards are actually smaller than the actual width of 5.5 inches advertised. Attach the four 36 inch long pieces together first and then cut the two end pieces exactly to the size required.

Step 6 – Fit the top


Drill pocket holes facing upwards all the way around the top of the frame.
Place the top with the good side down and then place the upturned frame on top. Make sure you have equal gap all around and then fix the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws.

The original plan can be found at https://andrewharriswoodwork.com/free-plans/?grillingtable

 
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BBQ Grilling Station

Please note that these plans do not include instructions/materials for the top of the table. I planned to do a concrete top to inset the grill, but Mr. Goats broke his toe and I am physically unable to handle an 80lbs bag of concrete. The top photographed is made from cedar fence pickets and i would be perfectly content with it if I hadn’t had my heart set on a concrete top. It’s weather-resistant and beautiful! If you love it, add 5 fence pickets to your shopping list.

Shopping List:

 

  • 8 – 2×3@8′
  • 12 – 5 1/2″ x 72″ (1×6) Cedar Fence Pickets (we only have dog-eared, so that’s what I used)
  • 3 – 1×2@8′
  • 1 – set of outdoor hinges + pull
  • 1 1/4″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • Outdoor Glue (I use Titebond III)

 

Cut List:

2×3

  • 4 @ 49″ (stretchers)
  • 4 @ 32″ (legs)
  • 2 @ 24″ (shelf stretcher)
  • 2 @ 24 1/2″ (front/back divider)
  • 8 @ 25″ (deep stretchers)

 

1×6 Cedar Fence Pickets

  • 15 @ 28″ (shelf boards and side slats)
  • 7 @ 22″ (front and back of “drawer”)
  • 6 @ 21″ (sides of “drawer”)
  • 3 @ 22″ (bottom of “drawer”)

1×2

  • 2 @ 24″ (drawer frame front stiles)
  • 2 @ 17″ (drawer frame back stiles)
  • 4 @ 19″ (drawer frame rails)
  • 4 @ 21″ (drawer stretchers)

56 1/2″ W x 30″ D x 33 1/2″ H (dimensions are given based on suggested tabletop size, accounting for a 1 1/2″ top)

Step 1:

You get two pictures in one step because I didn’t capture all of the dimensions in a single shot.

Begin by building the main frame using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top “shelf” can be placed at your desired height, but make sure to match the front and back frames. Make two.

Step 2:

With your front and back frames built, you can add the 25″ stretchers as pictured. I found it easiest to start from the outsides, in. The only thing to pay special attention to is the bottom, middle stretcher. It should be flush with the top of the adjoining boards.

Step 3:

Finish adding the stretchers to create the top shelf.

Step 4:


Make the front frame for your “drawer” using glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

 

Make the back frame for your “drawer”.

Step 6:

With your 21″ dividers, create your drawer “box” as shown above.

Step 7:

Finish your box by first gluing/screwing the side boards in from the front and back of the frames (countersinking your screws) and then gluing/screwing the front and backs. I screwed from the inside of the drawer frames into the outer boards. Set aside.

You have the option of leaving gaps between the boards to fill up all the space or ripping a board to the remaining gap, but I just left the space at the top.

Step 8:

Notch out four of the shelf boards to the dimensions above. These will be the front and back boards of your shelves.

Screw your shelf boards in place, starting with the bottom shelf, first. Use glue and 1 1/4″ outdoor screws (I used pocket hole screws w/o pocket holes, because it was what I had).

Step 9:

Insert the pull out “drawer”, using a 1/4″ spacer on the bottom. Attach hinges and drawer pull. If necessary, add a stop block (created with a wood scrap) to the inside of the frame using glue and screws.

Step 10:

Screw on the side slats using glue and 1 1/4″ screws.

There! Your table is built!! The choices on tops are endless, from tile to wood to concrete! Suggested dimensions for the top are 30″ x 56 1/2″.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.ladygoats.com/2015/06/diy-kettle-grill-island-or-potting-bench.html

 
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BBQ Grill Cart

Materials:

  • (5) 2 x 8 x 8-ft. boards
  • (6) 2 x 4 x 8-ft. boards
  • (4) 3-in. steel swivel casters
  • (4) 2 x 2 x 36″ Angle irons
  • 3″ Deck screws
  • 1 Can of spray paint
  • Mineral oil to season the butcher block surface
  • Butcher block conditioner
  • Cutting oil to use as a lubricant for drilling through the metal

Step 1: Cut the lumber

Cut the wood into the lengths shown in the diagram above.

Step 2: Build the Shelves

Screw together the 2x4s into rectangular frames and then screw the longer pieces of 2x8s and 2x4s on top of them.

Step 3: Drill through the angle irons

Drill through the angle irons with the 3/16 in. bit. Check to make sure that the screws fit through the holes. Then use the larger drill bit to create a hole over the 3/16th hole to countersink the screws.

Step 4: Paint the angle irons

Clean the cutting oil off the angle irons and then paint them with spray paint.

Step 5: Attach the angle irons

Screw through the holes drilled in the angle irons and into the wood shelves.

Step 6: Attach the top

Screw through the top boards and into the frame.

Step 7: Seal or stain wood

Finish the wood with a butcher-block conditioner.

Step 8: Add wheels and accessories

Screw on the wheels and other accessories.

 

The original plan can be found at http://blog.homedepot.com/how-to-build-a-diy-grilling-cart/

 

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BBQ Grill Cart

You’ve perfected your grilling technique. You’ve mastered the marinade. Now take your outdoor culinary skills to the next level by building our red cedar cookout cart. It’s the perfect mobile staging area for storing and preparing food. Chop vegetables or slice meat on its lift-off polyethylene cutting board, then dump scraps through its hole and into a sliding stainless-steel pan below. Another larger pan on the left slides out to give you access to stored meat, fish, vegetables or ice. Lean cookbooks against the backsplash and keep condiments in the lift-out tray on the left. After the feast, the slide-out pans, the cutting board and the condiment tray come inside for cleaning while the cart stays outside with your grill.

Materials:

  • A – (2) 5/4” x 4” x 44” (handle)
  • B – (2) 1” x 4” x 34 ½” (front leg)
  • C – (2) 1” x 4” x 32” (rear leg)
  • D – (6) 1” x 4” x 22” (frame end)
  • E – (6) 1” x 4” x 30 ½” (frame side)
  • F – (2) 1” x 4” x 20 ½” (frame, stretcher)
  • G – (1) ¾” dia. x 24 ¼” (steel handle)
  • H – (2) 8” dia. (cart wheel)
  • I – (1) 1” x 4” x 17 7/8” (top, center) (actual width is 4”; rip from 1×6)
  • J – (1) 1” x 4 ½” x 17 7/8” (top, end) (rip from 1×6)
  • K – (1) 1” x 3” x 37 ¼” (top, back)(rip from 1×4)
  • L – (1) 1” x 4” x 23 ½” (top, stretcher)
  • M – (1) 1” x 4 ¼” x 37 ¼” (top, front) (rip from 1×6)
  • N – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 20 ½” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
  • O – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 22 ¼” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
  • P – (1) 1” x 6 ¼” x 37 ¼” (backsplash)(cut from 1×8)
  • Q – (3) 5/4” x 1 ¾” x 22” (pan runners)
  • R – (6) 3/8” x 2 ½” (dowels)
  • S – (4) 1” x 2 ¼” x 2 ¼” (corner block)
  • T – (2) 1/8” x 8” x 14” (knife shield)
  • U – (1) ¾” x 17 ¾” x 23 ¾” (cutting board)
  • V – (22) 3/8” x 1 ½” x 31 7/8” (shelf slats)
  • W – (1) 6” x 12 ¾” x 21” (large pan)
  • X – (1) 6” x 10 ½” x 12” (small pan)
  • Y – (1) 3” x 5” x 18 ¾” (condiment tray)

Step 1: Clamp, then screw

Crosscut the parts for the three frames. Clamp the parts together and bore countersunk pilot holes. Apply waterproof glue to the joint to add a little strength and to seal the end grain. Next, drive 1¼-inch galvanized or stainless-steel screws into each joint.

Step 2: Install the legs

Crosscut the two rear legs, apply waterproof glue to the joint and fasten the legs using 1¼-inch screws driven into pilot holes.

Step 3: Add safety

Make a knife shield from two pieces of acrylic plastic cut to shape with a jigsaw. Drill and countersink three screw holes into each piece. Then screw one to the outer surface of the upper frame. Attach the other to the inner surface of the wood handle.

Step 4: Hide the screws

Fasten the cart’s wood handle to the upper frame with glue and deck screws. Drive the screws from the back so they’ll be hidden. Make sure that the square end of each handle is flush with the rear legs.

Step 5: Dowels make knife slots

To create five partitions to hang knives, start by drilling six holes through the upper frame and both acrylic panels, and into (but not through) the wood handle. Insert a dowel into each hole, then trim it flush.

Step 6: Rip the slats

Rip the slats from a cedar 2 x 4 and sand or plane them smooth. Shape their top edges with a router and a rounding-over bit. Using a pneumatic finish nailer, fasten the slats to the frame, spaced 5/8 inch apart.

Step 7: Build the top

Rip and crosscut the top parts and test fit the cutting board in it. Next, use glue and biscuits to assemble the top and clamp the assembly. Screw the cleats to the bottom of the assembly.

Step 8: Add Runners

With the cart upside down, screw on the runners, which will support the two stainless-steel pans.

Step 9: Fasten the backsplash

Rip and crosscut the back-splash from a cedar 1 x 8, then cut the gentle top curve using a jigsaw. Finally, fasten it by driving deck screws through pilot holes into the back of the top assembly.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a5796/wood-summer-cookout-cart-plans/

 
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BBQ Tool Cabinet

PARTS

  • A side frame pieces – (2) 5/4 X 6 X 28″
  • B bottom frame piece – (1) 5/4 X 4 3/4″ X 19″
  • C top frame piece – (1) 5/4 X 6 X 23″
  • D front strip – (1) 1″ X 23″ (cut from 5/4 X 6 cedar)
  • E back pieces – (4) (cut to fit from 1 x 6 T & G cedar)
  • F feet – (2) (see drawing) (cut from 5/4 X 6 cedar)
  • G door pieces – (2) 1 X 4 3/4″ X 23 7/8″
  • H door pieces – (2) 1 X 4 1/2″ X 23 7/8″
  • I door cleats – (4) 1 X 2″ X 8″
  • J door strip – (1) 1/4″ X 1″ X 23 7/8″

Pre-drill all screw locations with a #8 countersink bit and  sand the pieces before assembly.

  1. Referring to the diagram, cut the two side pieces,  the top and bottom pieces, and the feet to size. Glue and nail the front strip  to the top piece.
  2. Using a bench saw or router, cut a 1/2″ x 1/2″  rabbet along the back edges of the side, top and bottom pieces of the frame.  (Note that the rabbet on the side pieces only extends to the base of the bottom  frame piece.)
  3. Assemble the frame using 2-1/2″ deck screws and  exterior wood glue. Make all the pieces flush at the back and centre the top  piece on the sides of the frame. Using clamps will help in the assembly  process. Check to ensure that the frame is square. A temporary wood strap  fastened diagonally to the front of the frame will keep the unit square until  the back is installed.
  4. Cut and assemble 1 x 6 cedar boards for the back,  using 2″ galvanized finishing nails and glue. The temporary wood strap (step 3)  may now be removed.


Build the Doors

  1. Referring to the schematic diagram, cut the four  door pieces to size from 1 x 6 tongue and groove cedar.  Cut off the  tongue and groove from the inner and outer edges of each door.
  2. Fasten the two cleats to the back of each door,  using glue and 1″ #8 brass screws.
  3. With the cabinet on its back, install the two  doors, using two hinges per door.  Install  the cedar strip to the right side door, using  1″ finishing nails and glue.
  4. Install the barrel bolt, drilling a 1/4″ diameter  hole half an inch into the top frame piece to line up with the bolt.
  5. Attach the two wooden feet, using glue and 2″ deck  screws.  Initially insert one screw into each foot, set the cabinet on a  level surface, and using a level or carpenter’s square check to make sure the  unit is vertical.  Then secure with three more screws in each foot.
  6. Install the hooks and handle as shown.
  7. Finish with a natural UV resistant wood finish.

The original plan can be found at http://www.homeathome.homehardware.ca/en/index/home-projects/project-ideas/home-at-home/spring-projects/barbecue-tool-cabinet.htm

 
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BBQ Shelter

 

PARTS:

  • A side panels – posts – (4) 4 X 4 X 6′ 11 1/2″ (see dwg)
  • B side panels – rails – (4) 2 X 4 X 33″ (cut shorter if using rail connectors)
  • C side panels – fence boards – (6) 1 X 6 X 2′ 7″ (cut from 6′ fence boards)
  • D side panels – top rail & shelf – (2) 2 x 6 x 3′ 4″ (see dwg)
  • E back panel – frame – (5) 2 x 4 x 5′
  • F back panel – filler pieces – (8) two 1 x 6 x 5′ fence boards ripped to 1 1/4″ wide strips
  • G back panel – shutter boards – (12) 1 x 6 x 5′ (cut lengths to accommodate louvre brackets & rails)
  • H roof – ridge boards – (2) 2 X 6 X 3′ (see dwg)
  • I roof – rafters – (4) 2 X 4 X 3′ 4 1/2″ (see dwg)
  • J roof – shutter boards – (18) 1 X 6 X cut length to fit (6′ fence boards cut in half)
  • K roof – peak – (2) 2 x 4 x 1′ 8″ (see dwg)
  • L roof – cap – (2) 1 x 6 x 3′ (see dwg)

ROOF – ASSEMBLY
Fasten the louvre brackets and misc parts to the shutter boards and install the boards according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fasten the roof cap to the ridge boards and the rafters. Lift the roof structure onto the four posts. Set the rafters into the post notches. Fasten the rafters to each post with four 3 1/2″ deck screws.

ROOF – PARTS

 

ROOF – STRUCTURE
Fasten 2 rafters to each ridge board using 3 1/2″ deck screws. Install louvre rails on the insides of the 4 rafters.

Screw or bolt the two ridge boards together. Fasten the two roof peak pieces “K” to the bottoms of the rafters.

BACK PANEL
Install the louvre rail sections to the insides of the frame (top and bottom) according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Screw vertical filler pieces “F” to the insides of the frame to fill in the gaps at the ends of the louvre rails. Fasten the louvre brackets and misc parts to the shutter boards and install the boards according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

ASSEMBLY – BACK & SIDE PANELS
Fasten the back panel to the side panel posts with 3 1/2″ deck screws.

SIDE PANELS
Fasten the top rails “D” to the side panels with 3 1/2″ deck screws.

BACK PANEL
Assemble the back panel frame using 3″ deck screws.

POSTS
In two posts, slope the notches in one direction and in the other two posts, slope the notches in the opposite direction.

SIDE PANELS
Construct two side panel assemblies:

  • Fasten the rails to the posts using rail connectors.
  • Make certain that the post notches in
    each panel face inward.
  • Also, make certain that the post notches
    slope in the correct direction for the
    roof structure

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.homeathome.homehardware.ca/en/index/home-projects/project-ideas/home-at-home/spring-projects/shelter-for-the-grill-and-the-cook.htm

 
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Spring Rose Dresser

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 6 sets of 14″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • (5) 1×2 at 8′
  • (2) 1×6 at 8′
  • (4) 1×8 at 8′
  • (1) 1×12 at 4′
  • (1) 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • (2) 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 51-1/2″ – Bottom
  • (2) 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 31-1/4″ – Sides
  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/4″ x 51-1/2″ – Lower Back Support
  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 25-1/4″ x 51-1/2″ – Back Panel
  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 25-1/4″ – Divider
  • (1) 1×2 at 51-1/2″ – Upper Front Stretcher
  • (2) 1×2 at 25-3/8″ – Lower Front Stretchers
  • (2) 1×2 at 21-1/4″ – Mid-Front Stretchers
  • (2) 1×2 at 31-1/4″ – Outer Side Framing
  • (1) 1×2 at 24-1/2″ – Center Framing
  • (12) 1×2 at 14″ – Drawer Spacers
  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 54″ – Top
  • (1) 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/4″ x 53″ – Lower Front Trim
  • (4) 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 21-3/4″ – Upper Drawer Box Bottom
  • (8) 1×8 at 12-1/2″ – Upper Drawer Box Sides
  • (8) 1×8 at 23-1/4″ – Upper Drawer Box Front & Back
  • (2) 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 21-3/4″ – Lower Drawer Box Bottoms
  • (4) 1×6 at 12-1/2″ – Lower Drawer Box Sides
  • (4) 1×6 at 23-1/4″ – Lower Drawer Box Front & Back
  • (4) 1×8 at 25-1/4″ – Lower Drawer Fronts
  • (2) 1×12 (ripped to 9-5/8″ wide) at 25-1/4″ – Upper Drawer Fronts

Step 1:

Cut the piece for the bottom, cutting the notches with a jigsaw. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back edge of the sides which will make the notched edge extend 3/4″ past the sides.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the back and the lower back support. Position the lower back support under the bottom securing the piece to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the sides and lower edge of the back. Position on top of the bottom and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edge. Position the divider as shown, then secure to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and the framing. Cut notches in the framing pieces as shown (pay special attention to the dimensions of the pieces to make sure the correct ones are cut) using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the mid-front stretchers.

Secure the outer side framing to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The outside edges will be flush with the outside faces of the sides. Secure the center divider framing piece to the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, making sure the piece is centered. Attach the notched stretchers to the outer side framing and center divider framing using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Attach the mid-front stretchers to the outer side framing and center divider framing as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers, securing to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 6:

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that the sides overhang by 1/2″ and the front overhangs by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 7:

Cut the piece for the lower front trim. Draw lines for the curves as desired, maintaining the overall dimensions of the piece. Secure to the bottom and outer side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front edge of the side framing and center divider framing. Make any necessary adjustments. The smaller drawer boxes are the lower drawers – the larger drawer boxes are the upper drawers!

Step 9:

Cut the pieces for the upper drawer fronts. Using a router and a 3/8″ straight bit, cut a dado across each drawer front approximately 1/4″ deep. This will make it look as if there are two drawer fronts instead of one.

Step 10:

Cut the pieces for the remaining drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. The sides of each drawer front will overlap the opening by 1/2″. Starting with the lower drawer fronts, position the pieces so they are 1/2″ above the lower trim. Drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box to temporarily hold the drawer front in place. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

The middle drawer fronts will be positioned 1/4″ above the lower drawer fronts, and the upper drawer fronts will be positioned 1/4″ above the middle drawer fronts.

Finish as desired.

 

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/diy-plans-build-spring-rose-dresser/

 
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6 Drawer Dresser

Materials:

  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • (1) 1×3 at 8’
  • (1) 1×6 at 3’
  • (6) 1×8 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4” Brad Nails
  • (6) sets of 16” Drawer Slides (side mount with 1/2″ clearance)
  • (6) Cabinet/Drawer pulls

Cut List:

  • (2) 1×6 at 14” –Base
  • (1) ¾” plywood at 18” x 52-3/4” – Bottom
  • (2) 1×3 at 47-1/4” – Base Stretchers
  • (2) ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Sides
  • (1) ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 27” – Divider
  • (4) ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 26” – Shelves
  • (1) ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 54-1/4”” – Back
  • (1) ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 54-1/4”” – Top
  • (12) 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • (12) 1×8 at 25” – Drawer Box
  • (6) ¼” plywood at 16” x 25” – Drawer Bottom
  • (4) ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 26-1/8” – Drawer Fronts
  • (2) ¾” plywood at 9” x 26-1/8” – Middle Drawer Front

Step 1:

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly. Cut the pieces for the base and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each base piece. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom to attach the sides. Position the base pieces on the bottom as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and existing base pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Cut the piece for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each edge. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 5:

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6:

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap all the way around. Align, use shims to hold in place if needed. Fasten using 1 1/4″ Brad Nails and glue from the front. Once the glue has set up, attach from the inside if you prefer using 1 1/4″ screws then attach the drawer pulls according to the manufacter instructions.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2013/08/free-diy-furniture-plans-build-emmerson-6-drawer-dresser/

 
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