Moreno Bar

Materials:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 1 set of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 – Cabinet pulls
  • 2 sets of hinges for the doors
  • 1 set of hinges for the flip-up top
  • 2 Friction Lid Supports

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 33-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 30-3/4” plywood – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×4 at 29-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 1 – 1×4 at 45” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-3/4” x 43-1/2” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – 1×3 at 27-1/4” – Front Divider
  • 1 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 15-1/2” – Top Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 16-3/4” – Fixed Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-5/8” x 33-3/4” – Flip-Up Top
  • 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/2” – Door Frame

Step 1:

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher.

Step 5:

Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.

Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6:

Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Install the cabinet pull as desired.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com

 
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