Farmhouse Bathroom Vanity


Material List:

  • 2 – 4″x4″x8′ (only need 29.25″ out of the second one)
  • 1 – 1″x20″x48″
  • 6 – 2″x2″x8′ (or I used 3 2″x4″ and ripped to width on a table saw)
  • 1 – 1″x4″x8′
  • 1 – 36″ 1/2″ black iron pipe
  • 2 – 1/2″ Black iron flanges
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Franklin International Titebond Original Wood Glue
  • 1 1/4″ black screws (attaching flanges to legs)
  • Vessel sink and faucet
  • Plumbing connections in the same finish as the faucet
  • Stain/paint
  • Poly/Acrylic sealer
  • Bath Adhesive Caulk

Cut List:

  • (4) – 4×4 @ 29 ¼” long (legs)
  • (1) – 1×20 @ 38” long (top)
  • (2) – 2×2 @ 31” long (front/back of lower slats)
  • (4) – 2×2 @ 13” long (slats between 4×4’s)
  • (15) – 2×2 @ 17” long (slats between 31” 2×2’s)
  • (2) – 1×4 @ 31” long (front/back apron)
  • (2) – 1×4 @ 13” long (side aprons)

Instructions:

Put pocket holes into the back of both sides of all apron pieces.  Use wood glue and attach to 4×4’s, offsetting back 1/4″ from the outside edge using 2″ pocket hole screws.

Put pocket holes at the inside of the top of the 4×4’s and along the top of the aprons.  These will secure the top to the bottom.  Using wood glue, place bottom upside down onto the top piece. Attach with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

At this point in time we stained/poly’d all pieces, including the ends of the slats. When they are attached, the small amount of the natural rounded edges of the 2×2’s could be exposed so it is best to have it stained ahead of time.

It is best to do the next part with the vanity upside down.  Measure down 7″ from the bottom of the inside of all legs.  Attach the 4 outside 2×2’s using pocket holes placed on the bottom and wood glue.  Put the other 13″ 2×2’s so they are lined up with the inside of the 2×2’s. They should be approximately 1/2″ apart.

Mark the following lines on the 31″ 2×2’s (see photo below), both sides, these will be the starting points for the 17″ slats in between.  Attach all with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

For the front metal bar, we used a black iron pipe.  We used flanges that the pipe could screw into. I cut the pipe around 29 3/4″ as there was a 1/2″ on each flange between where the threading stopped and the leg, then a little room to get the pipe between, then screw it out so it out so it was tight.  We purchased a pipe threader kit threads pipes up to 1″.  After cutting and threading the pipe, we held it up and marked the holes for each flange (doesn’t have to be exact, just whatever looks good).  They were probably 2″ on center from the bottom of the apron.  Attach with the black screws.

Place the sink/faucet on top of the vanity to determine the best placement.  For this sink, we determined that placing the sink about 2″ from each edge looked best.  Mark holes for the drain and faucet.

Drill holes according to instructions provided with your sink.  Our sink required a 1 1/4″ hole for the sink and 1 3/4″ for the drain.  Attach sink/faucet according to the directions provided with the sink/faucet.  Our sink required us to chisel out a small area around the drilled hole to accommodate a gasket for the bottom of the sink.  A router or wood chisel may be needed. Attach sink to vanity top using bath adhesive caulk.  Hook up plumbing, etc.


Enjoy that new bathroom vanity!

The original plan can be found at https://decorandthedog.net

 
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