BBQ Grilling Station

Please note that these plans do not include instructions/materials for the top of the table. I planned to do a concrete top to inset the grill, but Mr. Goats broke his toe and I am physically unable to handle an 80lbs bag of concrete. The top photographed is made from cedar fence pickets and i would be perfectly content with it if I hadn’t had my heart set on a concrete top. It’s weather-resistant and beautiful! If you love it, add 5 fence pickets to your shopping list.

Shopping List:

 

  • 8 – 2×3@8′
  • 12 – 5 1/2″ x 72″ (1×6) Cedar Fence Pickets (we only have dog-eared, so that’s what I used)
  • 3 – 1×2@8′
  • 1 – set of outdoor hinges + pull
  • 1 1/4″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • Outdoor Glue (I use Titebond III)

 

Cut List:

2×3

  • 4 @ 49″ (stretchers)
  • 4 @ 32″ (legs)
  • 2 @ 24″ (shelf stretcher)
  • 2 @ 24 1/2″ (front/back divider)
  • 8 @ 25″ (deep stretchers)

 

1×6 Cedar Fence Pickets

  • 15 @ 28″ (shelf boards and side slats)
  • 7 @ 22″ (front and back of “drawer”)
  • 6 @ 21″ (sides of “drawer”)
  • 3 @ 22″ (bottom of “drawer”)

1×2

  • 2 @ 24″ (drawer frame front stiles)
  • 2 @ 17″ (drawer frame back stiles)
  • 4 @ 19″ (drawer frame rails)
  • 4 @ 21″ (drawer stretchers)

56 1/2″ W x 30″ D x 33 1/2″ H (dimensions are given based on suggested tabletop size, accounting for a 1 1/2″ top)

Step 1:

You get two pictures in one step because I didn’t capture all of the dimensions in a single shot.

Begin by building the main frame using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top “shelf” can be placed at your desired height, but make sure to match the front and back frames. Make two.

Step 2:

With your front and back frames built, you can add the 25″ stretchers as pictured. I found it easiest to start from the outsides, in. The only thing to pay special attention to is the bottom, middle stretcher. It should be flush with the top of the adjoining boards.

Step 3:

Finish adding the stretchers to create the top shelf.

Step 4:


Make the front frame for your “drawer” using glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

 

Make the back frame for your “drawer”.

Step 6:

With your 21″ dividers, create your drawer “box” as shown above.

Step 7:

Finish your box by first gluing/screwing the side boards in from the front and back of the frames (countersinking your screws) and then gluing/screwing the front and backs. I screwed from the inside of the drawer frames into the outer boards. Set aside.

You have the option of leaving gaps between the boards to fill up all the space or ripping a board to the remaining gap, but I just left the space at the top.

Step 8:

Notch out four of the shelf boards to the dimensions above. These will be the front and back boards of your shelves.

Screw your shelf boards in place, starting with the bottom shelf, first. Use glue and 1 1/4″ outdoor screws (I used pocket hole screws w/o pocket holes, because it was what I had).

Step 9:

Insert the pull out “drawer”, using a 1/4″ spacer on the bottom. Attach hinges and drawer pull. If necessary, add a stop block (created with a wood scrap) to the inside of the frame using glue and screws.

Step 10:

Screw on the side slats using glue and 1 1/4″ screws.

There! Your table is built!! The choices on tops are endless, from tile to wood to concrete! Suggested dimensions for the top are 30″ x 56 1/2″.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.ladygoats.com

 
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