BBQ Table

This plan makes a table 47 inches wide, 22 inches deep and 36 inches high with the top added. All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.

Materials:

  • (8) 1×4 @ 8′
  • (2) 1×6 @ 8′
  • 1 1/4″ screws

Cut List:

  • (8) 1×4 @ 35 1/4″ – Legs
  • (2) 1×4 @ 38″ – Top rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 42″ – Bottom rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 11 1/2″ – Top rails for sides
  • (2) 1×4 @ 18 1/2″ – Bottom rails for sides
  • (11) 1×4 @ 17″ – Shelf slats
  • (4) 1×6 @ 36″ – Top
  • (2) 1×6 @ 22″ – Top

Step 1 – Make the two Sides


Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make each side. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 11 ½ inches long, one piece 18.5 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 11 ½ inch piece. The 18 ½ inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 18 ½ inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled. Also drill pocket holes on the outside edges of the legs as shown below for fixing the sides to the front and back frames.

Step 2– Make the front and back frames


Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make the front and back frames. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 38 inches long, one piece 42 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 38 inch piece. The 42 inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 42 inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled.

Step 3– Join the sides and front and back together


Join the sides and front and back frames together as shown below. This is why the pocket holes were put on the outer edges of the inside of the sides.

Step 4 – Add the shelf pieces


Add the 17 inch long pieces of 1 by 4 as the shelf supports. Drill pocket holes on both ends of each 17 inch piece and attach them flush with the top edge of the bottom rail. Check the exact dimensions of your boards as they may not be exactly 3.5 inches wide. For mine I worked out the spacing between each board had to be 11/32 inches. It helps to cut a spacer from scrap wood to use.

Step 5 – Make the top


Make the top from the 1 by 6 pieces as shown below.

Tip : If using Cedar then I have found the 1 by 6 boards are actually smaller than the actual width of 5.5 inches advertised. Attach the four 36 inch long pieces together first and then cut the two end pieces exactly to the size required.

Step 6 – Fit the top


Drill pocket holes facing upwards all the way around the top of the frame.
Place the top with the good side down and then place the upturned frame on top. Make sure you have equal gap all around and then fix the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws.

The original plan can be found at https://andrewharriswoodwork.com

 
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