Category: B

Bar Cabinet


Materials:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8’
  • 10 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 22” drawer slides (side mount with 1/2″ clearance)
  • 1 set of Hinges
  • 2 Drawer/Cabinet Pull

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×4 at 41-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 6 – 1×4 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1×4 at 35-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1×4 at 41-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Front Panels
  • 2 – 1×4 at 37” – Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×4 at 37-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1×3 at 26-3/4” – Cabinet Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 29-3/8” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1×2 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Countertop
  • 2 – 1×4 at 22-1/4” – Inner Top Spacers
  • 1 – 1×4 at 37” – Inner Top Spacer
  • 2 – 1×4 at 6-3/4” – Top Frame Back
  • 3 – 1×4 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame Spacers
  • 2 – 1×4 at 26-1/4” – Top Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 50-1/2” – Top Frame Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 50-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 20-1/2” Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/2” – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Door Stiles
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Door Panel

Step 1:


Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 2:


Cut the pieces for the legs, front frame, and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as one long edge of each leg. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Secure the entire front assembly to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Cut the pieces for the back legs and frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the back frame to the side legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4:


Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the under side.

Cut the piece for the cabinet divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom, front frame, and cabinet divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the divider (without pocket holes) will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet divider.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position in each side of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6:


Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and cabinet divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer slide spacer and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and the front leg as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the spacer will line up with the top of the drawer divider.

Step 7:

Cut the piece for the countertop and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs and panels into the countertop. The top face of the countertop will be flush with the top face of the back frame. Add a few 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the divider into the underside of the countertop.

Cut the pieces for the inner top frame and drill pocket holes at one end as well as one long edge. Secure to the front panel and countertop as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the inner frame sides and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides and countertop using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the top frame back. Secure to the side frame and inner top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top frame spacers and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the front frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame sides and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top frame front. Position as shown then secure to the sides and spacers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9:

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10:

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11:

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

Step 12:

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired

The original plan can be found out http://www.thedesignconfidential.com

[email_link]

Bar Cabinet

Materials:

  • A – Base – 7 pieces of 1×3 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 56” long, 5 pieces @ 17 ¼” long
  • B – Base – 1 piece of ¾” plywood – 56” x 18 ¾”
  • C – Trims – 4 pieces of 1×4 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 57 ½” long, 2 pieces @ 10 ¼” long
  • D – Sides – 4 pieces of ¾” plywood – 16” x 34 ½” long
  • E – Face – 1 piece of ¾” plywood – 54” x 34 ½” long
  • F – Shelves – 4 pieces of ¾” plywood – 2 pieces @ 16” x 16”, 2 pieces @ 16” x 19”
  • G – Trim – 1 piece of 1×3 Lumber – 54” long
  • G – Trim – 11 pieces of 1×2 Lumber – 4 pieces @ 32” long, 4 pieces @ 14 ½” long, 3 pieces @ 19” long
  • H – Countertop – 2 pieces of ¾” plywood 56” x 18 ¾”
  • H – Countertop – 4 pieces of 1×2 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 57 ½” long, 2 pieces @ 20 ¼” long

Building the base

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the base of the diy bar. As you can easily notice in the plans, we recommend you to build the frame out of 1×3 lumber and the top out of 3/4″ plywood. Drill pilot holes along the edges of the plywood sheet and insert the 1 1/4″ screws into the frame. Add waterproof glue to the joints in order to enhance the rigidity of the structure. Check if the corners are square.

Attaching the frame

Continue the project by attaching the frame of the wooden bar. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the plywood components and secure them to the base with 1 1/4″ screws. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the top supports and secure them to the components with 1 1/4 screws. Makes sure the corners are right-angled and place a spirit level to check if they are horizontal.

Fitting the front face

Continue the project by attaching the plywood piece to the front of the bar. Drill pilot holes along the edges of the side components and insert the 1 1/4″ screws into the face of the bar. Add glue to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Fitting the shelves

In order to add storage space to the bar, we recommend you to fit the 3/4″ plywood shelves to the dimensions described in the article and to drill pocket holes along the edges.

Top Tip: Align the components at both ends and secure them to the frame with 1 1/4″ screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints in order to enhance the rigidity of the structure. Make sure the shelves are horizontal.

Fitting the bottom trims

Add trims to the base of the bar, in order to enhance the look of the woodworking project. Cut both ends of the trims at 45 degrees and lock them together with finishing nails and waterproof glue.

Fitting the bar trims

Cut the top trim out of 1×3 lumber, while the rest of the trims should be made out of 1×2 lumber. It is essential to lock all the trims together after drilling pocket holes and inserting the 1 1/4″ screws.

Top Tip: Afterwards, attach the trims to the frame of the bar and secure them into place with waterproof glue and finishing nails. Smooth the trims with sandpaper, if you want to get a professional result.

Fitting the countertop

Building the countertop of the diy bar is a straight-forward process, as you need to glue two pieces of 3/4″ plywood together. Use several clamps to hold the pieces of plywood together.

Top Tip: Center the tabletop to the frame of the wooden bar and lock it into place by using several galvanized screws. Add glue to enhance the rigidity of the frame and leave it to dry out for several hours.

Fitting the trims

Add 1×2 trims to the exterior of the countertop in order to enhance the look of the diy bar. Cut both ends of the trims at 45 degrees and lock them to the countertop with finishing nails and waterproof glue. Leave no gaps between the components.

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the bench in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com

[email_link]

Backyard Bar

Materials:

  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 42” long
  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 42” long
  • B – Frame – 15 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 9 pieces @ 15” long, 6 pieces @ 42” long.
  • C – Shelves – 26 pieces of 1×4 – 18” long
  • D – Panels – 23 pieces of 1×6 Lumber – 14 pieces @ 11” long, 9 pieces @ 40” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 48” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 48” long, 2 pieces @ 29” long

Building the frame

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frames of the bar. As you can easily notice in the image, we recommend you to use 2×4 lumber and to cut the components at the right size before locking them together.

Top Tip: Check if the corners are right-angled and drill pilot holes before inserting the screws, in order to prevent the wood from splitting. Align everything properly.

Building the legs

Build the legs for the bar using 2×4 or 2×6 lumber. Make decorative cuts to the bottom of the legs, as shown in the diagram.

Attaching the legs

Continue the woodworking project by attaching the legs to the three frames. In order to get a professional result, we recommend you to cut the ends of the legs in a decorative manner, by using a nice circular saw. Use 2×4 lumber to build the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Plumb the legs and check if the frames are perfectly horizontal before inserting the screws.

Attaching the legs

Next, you need to attach the legs to the front and back faces of the bar. Cut the components at the right size and lock them to the structure with 2 1/2″ screws, from the inside. Leave no gaps between the adjacent legs before inserting the screws into place. Add waterproof glue to enhance the rigidity of the joints and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Work with attention, otherwise the end result won’t match your expectations.

Attaching the slats to the shelves

Attach the 1×4 slats to the frames in order to build the shelves. Work with attention and pre-drill holes through the slats before locking them to the frames with 1 1/4″. Place the slats equally-spaced, in order to get a professional result.

Attaching slats to back face

Attach the 1×6 trims to the exterior of the wooden bar starting with the back face. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the slats and secure them to the legs with 1 1/4″ screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints and make sure the edges are flush. Alternatively, use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to lock the trims to the frame.

Attaching slats to sides

Fit the 1×6 slats between the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints in order to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Top Tip: Place the slats equally-spaced, leaving between them about 1/4″. Align the slats with great care and smooth the cut edges with sandpaper before fitting them into place.

Fitting slats to front

Continue by installing the slats to the front face of the bar, as shown in the image. Align the slats at both ends and secure them to the legs with galvanized screws.

Building the countertop

Building the countertop is a straight-forward process, but you need to tackle it with great care. Align the slats with great care on a level surface and lock them together with galvanized screws. Drill pocket holes along the edges of the slats before inserting the 2 1/2″ screws and add waterproof glue to the joints, in order to create a rigid structure. Make the end slats curved, in order to add value to the wooden bar.

Attaching the countertop

Center the bar to the tabletop, making sure there are no gaps between the components. Drill pocket holes through the frame and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the countertop, to create a rigid structure.

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the bar in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/furniture/free-bar-plans/

[email_link]

Basement Bar

If the notion of building a bar conjures fond and fuzzy memories of hammering 2x4s into some makeshift cup stand back in college, terrific. But that experience won’t help you much here. This is a real piece of furniture, as you can see from the trimmed panels, sturdy oak bar-rail molding, and stainless-steel foot rail. Follow along as This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers and colleague Douglas Adams build this handsome rec-room centerpiece. And if you want to break out the toga when it’s finished, well, that’s entirely your call.

Paint: Valspar’s Royal Garnet.
Stain: Minwax’s Jacobean.
Bar-rail molding: Bar-rail profile #375; Dykes Lumber.
Foot-rail assembly: Brushed stainless-steel foot-rail tubing, brackets, and caps; KegWorks.

Step 1: Overview

Cut list:

½-inch plywood: 1 @ 60 by 42 inches
½-inch plywood: 2 @ 24 by 42 inches

Lauan sheathing: 1 @ 60 by 42 inches
Lauan sheathing: 2 @ 24 by 42 inches

1×2 framing: 11 @ 37 inches
1×2 framing: 4 @ 24 inches
1×2 framing: 2 @ 60 inches
1×4 nailing block: 2 @ 6 inches

1×4 stile: 5 @ 31¼ inches
1×4 corner stile: 4 @ 42 inches
1×4 corner stile: 2 @ 42 inches (Rip ¾ inch off the board’s width.)
1×2 stile: 2 @ 42 inches

1×4 rail: 1 @ 54½ inches
1×4 rail: Scribe 2 to size.
1×8 rail: 1 @ 54½ inches
1×8 rail: Scribe 2 to size.

Panel molding: Miter 32 to size.

1×2 shelf supports: 1 @ 54 inches
1×2 shelf supports: 2 @ 6 inches

¾-inch plywood bar-top substrate: Cut 2 to size.
¾-inch plywood bar-top substrate: Cut 2 to size.

1×12 bar top: Cut 1 to size.
1×12 bar top: Cut 2 to size.

Bar-rail molding: Miter 3 to size.

Step 2: Lay Out the Three Sides
Using a circular saw, cut the ½-inch plywood to size for the bar’s front and side panels. With a miter saw, cut the 14 framing boards to length; use them to line the panels’ perimeter, and arrange three more, equally spaced between the side boards, as shown. And if you plan to install brackets for a foot rail, add 6-inch nailing blocks to what will be the lower corners of the front panel. Apply construction adhesive to the back of each 14, and nail them in place using a pneumatic nail gun and 1-inch nails. Mark the location of the vertical boards on the edges of the horizontal boards so that you can pinpoint them once they’re covered.

Step 3: Cut and Attach the Sheathing


Place the lauan finish-face down, and cut it to size with a circular saw. Apply construction adhesive to the framing and affix the lauan. If your pneumatic gun accepts staples, use it to fasten the sheet along the framing with ½-inch staples; if it doesn’t, turn down the air pressure, use ⅝-inch nails, and tilt the gun slightly so that you don’t shoot straight through the lauan.

Step 4: Place the Corner Stiles

Using a miter saw, cut the 14 stiles and rails to length. For the front corner stiles, shift a 1×4 to overhang the panel edge by ¾ inch, using a block to set the space, as shown. Mark the inside edge of the stile on the panel. Do the same at the back edges of the side panels.

Step 5: Miter and Insert the Molding

Lay pieces of molding one by one inside the recessed panels created by the stiles and rails, and mark their length. Using a miter saw, cut the ends at a 45-degree angle, then nail each one in place with 1¼-inch nails. Hold off on the pieces alongside the corner rail for now.

Tip: For a tight fit, miter one side of a long piece of panel molding, hold it in place, and use the panel’s corner to mark a precise cutline for the opposite miter.

Step 6: Attach the Stiles and Rails to the Front Panel

Lay the top and bottom rail on the front panel between the marked lines, and position three equally spaced stiles between them. Glue and nail the stiles and rails in place with 1¼-inch nails. Set the corner stiles aside until the panels are assembled.

Step 7: Attach the Shelf Cleats

On the interior side of each panel, mark two horizontal lines 1½ inches and 24 inches from the bottom. Cut 11 cleats to length, leaving room for the side panels and their cleats to butt against the front panel. Install the cleats along the lines by countersinking pilot holes every 8 to 10 inches and driving 1¼-inch screws in place.

Step 8: Assemble the Walls

Apply glue to the front edge of a side panel. Set it upright, butt it into the front panel, and clamp the pieces together. Mark a line along the front panel to help you center your screws into the edge of the side panel’s framing. Drill pilot holes and drive 3-inch screws one at a time, working your way from one end to the other so that you can align the corner as you go. It helps to have a partner.

Step 9: Make the Shelves

 

Using a circular saw, cut the two shelves to length. For the bottom shelf, cut a 12 to length and glue and nail it underneath the front lip. Set the shelves in place, and nail through them and into the cleats, which will keep the panels square.

Step 10: Attach Corner Stiles and Clad the Sides

Now apply glue to the two front corner stiles and set them in place: snug against the rails and overhanging the edges by ¾ inch. Rip ¾ inch off the width of the side corner stiles, since they butt up against the overhanging front pieces. Apply glue to the back and nail them in place. Overhang the stiles at the back of the side panels by ¾ inch, and glue and nail them in place. Hold the top and bottom rails between the side stiles to scribe them. Cut, glue, and nail them in place. Attach a center stile on each side and trim it—as well as the untrimmed corner stiles—as in Step 6. Butt a 12 against the overhanging stiles to finish the side panels.

Step 11: Size the Bar-Top Base

To determine the width of the three plywood-base layer pieces, hold a section of bar-rail molding against the long edge of your plywood and snug the 112 oak bar top into the notch. Mark the plywood along the back edge of the board, as shown. Rip two lengths of plywood to this width.

Step 12: Install the Base

Cut one of the plywood lengths into two pieces for the sides that, when flush at the back, overhang the front by 6 inches. Arrange them to overhang the sides by 6 inches, too, then measure between them to get the length of the front piece. Cut it to length. Secure the base with 1¼-inch screws.

Step 13: Set the Oak Bar Top

Measure the inside edge of the plywood side pieces and cut two 112 boards to that length. Set them flush with the inside back corners, and measure outside edge to outside edge to get the length of the front 112. It will overlap the seams of the base layer. Cut the front piece to length. Set the boards in place, and use 1¼-inch nails to secure them. Finish the inside edges of the bar top with an oak 12 nailed on edge.

Step 14: Miter the Bar Molding

ad out the saw deck with two strips of scrap plywood to fit in the notch of the molding and keep it level. You’ll have to cut the padding to width, from the first notch of the molding to its back edge, as shown. Miter the end of one length of molding at a 45-degree angle.

Step 15: Dry-Fit the Bar Molding

On the bar top, use a combination square to draw 45-degree lines from the front corners. Take a piece of molding with one mitered end and hold it up to the front edge of the bar; line up the mitered end with the 45-degree mark. Snug the molding up against a mitered scrap to make sure you have a tight corner. Then, at the other end, carry the 45-degree line from the bar top over the molding’s uncut end, and miter the piece to size. Install it by screwing through the plywood underneath with 1¼-inch screws. Miter and cut the remaining sidepieces ¾ inch long to overhang the back of the bar. Finish the back edges of the bar top by cutting a 12 to fit the open notches of the molding with a saw.

Step 16: Attach the Brackets

On the front wall, mark vertical lines over the nailing blocks, equidistant from each edge. Place the brackets on the marks, and screw through the brackets’ holes and into the wall and nailing block.

Step 17: Install the Foot Rail

Slide the rail into the brackets, place a cap on each end, and run a set screw through the rail and into each cap. Fill the fastener holes on the bar with wood filler and caulk any open joints, then sand and paint the inside and outside of the walls and shelves. Sand the oak bar top with 220-grit paper, wipe it and the rail with a stain, and finish with a coat of polyurethane.

The original plan can be found at https://www.thisoldhouse.com.

 
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Broadway Bar

This open bar concept works out to be 40″ long x 40 1/2″ tall x 11 3/4″ deep

Materials:

  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 1 – 7/8” diameter dowel at 8’
  • 1 3/8″ Brad Nails
  • 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4”x40”– Top and Bottom Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 11-3/4”x39”– Bar Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4”x39-1/4” – Second Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 39-1/4” – Second Shelf Front and Back
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 14-1/4” – Right Side Top Dowel
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 24-3/4” – Right Side Bottom Dowel
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/4”x19-1/2” – Third Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2” – Third Shelf Front and Back
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 14-1/4” – Left Side Top Dowel
  • 1 – 1” diameter dowel at 10-1/2” – Left Side Bottom Dowel
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3/4”x11-3/4” – Spacers
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x11-3/4” – End Slides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x11-3/4” – Inside Slides

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Shelves and Bar Side. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Bar Side. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from each end, centered, on the Top and Bottom Shelves. Assemble as shown with the 1” drilled holes facing the inside and with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the Second Shelf and Second Shelf Front and Back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in one bottom end of the Second Shelf. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from the opposite end of the pocket holes, on the top side and centered. Drill a second 1” diameter hole 22-1/4” from the same end, centered, but on the bottom side. Attach the Second Shelf Front and Back to the Second Shelf as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position Right Side Top Dowel and Right Side Bottom Dowel with glue and attach the Second Shelf (with Front and Back pieces) to the Bar Side as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Note: you can paint the dowels with metallic paint before assembly to make them look like metal rods.

Step 3:

Cut the pieces for the Third Shelf and Third Shelf Front and Back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in one bottom end of the Third Shelf. Drill a 1” diameter hole 2-1/2” from the opposite end of the pocket holes, on the both the top side and bottom side, centered. Attach the Third Shelf Front and Back to the Third Shelf as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Position the Left Side Top Dowel and Left Side Bottom Dowel with glue and attach the Third Shelf (with Front and Back pieces) to Bar Side as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Note: you can paint the dowels with metallic paint before assembly to make them look like metal rods.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the Spacers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the Slides. The End Slides will be located flush with the end Spacers and the Inside Slides will be centered on the Spacers. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6:

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com

[email_link]

Bow Rack


Building your own bow rack is an easy DIY project for any archery enthusiast. The materials that are needed will cost around $20 depending on your selection of wood, and everything you need can be found at the local home improvement warehouse. The whole project will take about an hour to build (excluding paint or stain) depending on design choice and skill level. The simple bow rack shown in this post is made to hold up to 4 bows.

First, the shopping list:

  • 24 inches of 1 x 6 stain grade pine
  • 12 inches of 1 x 4 stain grade pine
  • 14 inches of 7/8 inch dowel oak
  • 12 inches of 1/4 inch dowel oak
  • 4- 1 5/8 inch drywall screws
  • Mounting hardware – I suggest 4 screws straight into studs or wall anchors rated for 50lbs+
  • Paint or Stain (optional)

Step 1: Cut the 1×6 backer board at 24″


Step 2: Cut (2) 1×4 boards at 6″ long each.


Step 3: Mark the 1×4 with an X for drilling
Measure from one end of the 1×4 that you just cut, 2″ in and 1 3/4” down and put an X where they meet.

Step 4: Drill through the 1×4 with a 7/8″ spade bit.
Take the 7/8″ spade drill bit and center it on the X. Remember it is important that these holes are straight and level otherwise your rack will be lopsided, and nobody wants a lopsided bow rack.


Step 5: Add a creative edge to the backer board.
This is the design step. If you have a router and would like to put a creative edge on your backer board (1×6) now is the time to do it. I used a simple rounded edge bit to add some character. You can do anything you want with this step or leave it that way it is.


Step 6: Measure and mark the boards for drilling
Measure in 4″ from each end of the 1×6 and draw a straight. Then, measure down 1″ from the top and up 1″ from the bottom making a mark on the lines you just drew. This gives you guidelines for mounting your 1×4 boards in the right places. This is important, otherwise the holes you drill in Step 7 will not line up correctly.


Step 7: Measure, mark, and drill for mounting holes
Flip over your backer board (1×6) and measure in towards the center 4 3/8″ from both ends and draw a straight line. Then, measure up 2″ and down 2″ along these lines and make marks. Take the 1/8″ drill bit and pre-drill each of these 4 marks that you just made. These give you pilot holes for mounting your 1×4 brackets.


Step 8: Install Drywall screws through the backer board into the 1×4 components
Take (4) 1 5/8″ drywall screws, start them from the back of the 1×6 into the 4 pre-drilled holes from Step 7. Then take your 1×4 brackets (one at a time) line them up to the guidelines you drew on the front of your 1×6. Screw one screw into the 1×4 and check to make sure you are still within your guidelines and screw the second screw in. You can either get someone to help you hold these in place while you screw them on, or use a clamp. Then repeat this for the second 1×4.


Step 9: Measure, mark, and cut the dowels.
Measure 6 3/4″ on your 7/8″ dowel, mark and cut. You will need two of these.


Step 10: Insert the dowel.
Slide your 7/8″ dowel through the hole you drilled in step 4. It should stick out 3″ on each side. Once you have it centered, mark it on each side.


Step 11: Drill the center of the 1×4 for a locking pin n the dowel
Place the rack flat and measure in 2″ from the end of the 1×4 on the top in the center (remember center is 3/8″ in from either side on any 1x wood). Take your 1/4″ drill bit on your mark and drill down through the 1×4 and 7/8″ dowel. This is probably the hardest step. It is very important to stay straight while drilling this hole as you want it in the center of the 1×4! Do this for both 1×4 brackets.

NOTE: Most 1/4″ Drill bits are long enough to just reach but make sure you verify before drilling.


Step 12: Cut and insert the 1/4″ dowel locking pins
Cut 2 pieces of your 1/4″ dowel to the depth of the holes you just drilled in step 11. Mine were 3″ long but it will vary depending on your drill bit length. An easy thing to do is to hold the dowel next to your drill bit and mark the length of the hole you just drilled, but better to be long than short. (I highly recommend using a hand saw for cutting the 1/4″ dowel)
Step 13: Trim the 1/4 dowels flush.
Take your 1/4″ dowel pieces that you just cut and tap them into the holes you drilled in step 11. They should be flush with the top of the 1×4, if they are not, they may not be all the way in. Otherwise, if you happen to measure a little long then you can just take a hand saw and trim them so they are flat.


Step 14: Sand the bow rack smooth
Sand your brand new bow rack smooth with a 220 grit sandpaper. You can use an electric sander or do it by hand. I sanded this one with one of the new sponge sanding blocks.


Step 15: Stain and seal the rack
Then, you can paint or stain your bow rack to whatever color or design you wish. The one you see pictured below and was stained in the Minwax Gel Stain color Gun Stock and then it got a coat of satin finish polyurethane.


Step 16: Mount the rack
Finally, you can mount your bow rack on your wall just make sure your bow doesn’t hit the floor. I prefer to mount them straight to studs in the wall. Use 4 mounting screws of your choice but make sure they are 2″ long or longer and attack the bow rack to the wall.Wherever you have mounting screws that are not going into a stud, use wall anchors that will hold 50lbs or more!

Here’s a picture of my current bow rack. I built it just like the one we put together, only faster and with scraps of wood I had laying around. It’s not as pretty, but I wanted to show you how it looks mounted to the wall.

Plan originally from https://www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-build-a-bow-rack/ by Andy @ Bow Hunting Maryland

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Backyard Service Cart

A practical service cart with fold-able shelves that is indispensable next to a barbecue.
This service cart is built with cedar, a naturally weather resistant wood that will last
for many years.

Materials:

  • 10 pieces – 1×6 Cedar – 96″ long
  • 3 pieces – 1×2 Cedar – 96″ long
  • 1 1/2″ screws for treated wood
  • 3 – 36″ piano hinges

Cutting Plan:

 

1×6 Cedar:

  • A – Contour – 10 pieces – 6″ x 32″
  • B – Door – 4 pieces – 6″ x 28 3/4″
  • C – Top – 3 pieces – 6″ x 23 7/8″
  • D – Shelf – 6 pieces – 6″ x 17″
  • E – Shelf – 3 pieces – 6″ x 20 7/8″
  • F – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 20 7/8″
  • G – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 15 1/4″

1×2 Cedar:

  • H – Stiffener – 10 pieces – 2″ x 15 1/4″
  • I – Stiffener – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 7/8″
  • J – Stiffener – 4 pieces – 2″ x 9 3/8″
  • K – 45 degree support – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 15/16″

Piano Hinge:

  • L – Door hinge – 2 pieces – 28″ long
  • M – Shelf hinge – 1 piece – 15″ long

Assembly:

Step 1:

Assemble each of the two sides by juxtaposing three A boards, connected by three H stiffeners and a G stiffener, centered in relation to the three boards.

– Screw an H stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
          – Screw the G stiffener to the lower end. Note that this G part is made of a 1″ x 6″ part cut length ways 1″ x 3″.
          – Attach the last two H stiffeners on both sides at the centre of the assembly, 15 1/2″ from the lower end of the A boards.

 

 

Step 2:

Assemble the back by juxtaposing four A boards, connected by an I stiffener and an F stiffener centered in relation to the four boards.
– Screw the I stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
– Screw the F stiffener to the lower end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:

Attach the back of the sideboard
to the sides. The back should rest on the sides, and not be caught between them.

Step 4:

Screw an I stiffener on the front
to the two H stiffener above
the side panels.

Step 5:

Screw an F stiffener on the front to two G stiffener of the side panels.

 

 

Step 6:

Lay the E boards of the interior shelf on the central H stiffeners, and screw.

Step 7:

Lay the C boards on the higher H stiffeners. The C boards should be centered in relation to the sides. Screw.

 

 

 

Step 8:

Assemble the two hinged shelves by using three D parts, connected
by H stiffeners attached 2″ from the ends of the D boards.

Step 9:

Screw the piano hinges M to the shelves, and then to the sideboard.

Step 10:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 11:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 12:

Screw the L piano hinges to the doors and then to the sides of the sideboard.

Step 13:

Support of the hinged shelves, when unfolded, is ensured by the K parts,
which ends are cut at 45 degrees, and are supported by the central external stiffeners.

Although the cedar is weather resistant, it is recommended to store the sideboard during the winter to give it a longer life.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.rona.camade by Rona

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Bar Cart


If your usual method of serving beverages at a barbecue involves a Styrofoam cooler and a bag of ice, it’s time to think about an upgrade. This mobile cart is tough enough to withstand sun, rain, and spills of your libation of choice. Two-wheeled construction lets you navigate stone patios or lumpy lawns with ease, and the top tray is removable for serving drinks or munchies. Best of all, the entire thing can be easily taken apart and stored flat—or, better yet, stashed in your trunk for tailgate parties this fall. What better project to celebrate the beginning of grilling season? This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers shows how to put it together using cedar and outdoor-grade materials.

Step 1: Cut the Pieces

Use a miter saw and a stop block to make cuts of the same length quickly; refer to the illustration for dimensions. For the top tray, cut two 1×4 short sides and two 1×3 long sides. For the bottom tray, cut short and long sides from 1x3s. Cut 19 1×3 bottom boards (nine for the top tray, 10 for the bottom one). Rip a 1×2 in half and cut four ledges to support the bottom boards.

Cut 2x deck pickets to make crosspieces to support the removable top tray. Cut the cart’s handle from a 1-inch hardwood dowel. Cut off the corners of the top tray’s 1×4 short sides so that each edge is 2½ inches tall and even with the height of the long sides. Use a wood file to round over the cuts, then smooth the cut pieces with sandpaper and a block.

Step 2: Cut out the top tray’s handles

Use a paint can to trace a centered arc to make a handle on both 1×4 (short) tray sides. Make sure the cuts are at least ½ inch below the top edge and 1¾ inches above the bottom edge of the 1×4. Use a jigsaw to cut out the handles. Use a file to smooth the cut surfaces.

Step 3: Attach ledges to Long sides

Lay a long side on the flat, and use a 1×3 turned on edge to mark off space at the ends, where the short sides will be attached. Apply wood glue along one edge of the long side between the marks. Press a ledge into the glue, flush with the edge of the side piece. Use the nail gun to drive 1 3⁄8-inch nails a few inches apart through the ledge and into the long side. Repeat for the three remaining long sides.

Step 4: Make the tray frames

Apply glue to the cut edge of a short side and the end of a long side. Butt the pieces together to form a corner. Use the nail gun to drive a nail through the top and bottom of the long side and into the edge of the short side. Repeat for all joints for tray frames.

Step 5: Attach the boards

Apply glue to the ledges of the top tray. Lay nine 1×3 boards across the ledges, using a couple of screws as spacers between them to facilitate drainage. Use the nail gun to secure the ends of the boards to the ledges. Repeat for the bottom tray, using 10 boards.

Step 6: Cut and Mark the legs

Refer to the illustration for all dimensions. Use a miter saw to make parallel 45-degree cuts on four 1x2s to cut them to size. Cut ¼ inch off the long points at each end. Lay the A legs on the flat and side by side, with the cut-off long points flush at one end, as shown (the short points meet at the other end). Mark each leg’s surface as an “outside face.” Measure and mark hole and notch locations on both legs. Repeat for the B legs, but mark each leg’s surface as an “inside face.”

Turn all the legs on edge. Mark each one at the midpoint of the edge, between the marks, to designate the depth of the notch cuts.

Tip: When marking multiple pieces to be drilled or cut in the same spots, measure off the first one and use a combination square to transfer the marks to other pieces at the same time.

Step 7: Make the notches

Using a miter saw, make several kerf cuts between the notch marks on the outside faces of the A legs and the inside faces of the B legs. Stop at the midpoint you marked in step 7. Use a chisel to remove the wood.

Step 8: Drill holes and Recesses

Using a drill/driver, with bits sized to the holes shown on the illustration, drill holes through the legs, except for holes through the notches. On the outside faces of the A legs, drill countersinks for the cart handle’s screws. Flip the A legs over; on the inside faces, center a 1-inch paddle bit over the countersinks and make ¼-inch recesses for the handle. Smooth cuts with sandpaper.

Step 9: Assemble the sides

Fit together the notches on the A and B legs for one side of the cart. Drill a centered ¼-inch hole through both legs at the notched intersection. Slip the post end of a 5⁄8-inch screw post through the notch hole in the B leg. Lay the legs on a work surface, A leg facing up, and slip the screw end of the screw post into the notch hole in the A leg. Begin screwing it into the post by hand, then tighten with a screwdriver. Repeat for the second side of the cart.

Step 10: Drill pilot holes for the bottom tray

Refer to the illustration for hole locations. Measure and mark spots for pilot holes for the bottom tray; make sure they’re ½ inch above the tray’s bottom. Use a 3⁄8-inch bit to drill four holes through the tray’s long sides and ledges.

Tip: When drilling large pilot holes, begin with a smaller bit size to create an accurate path through the material, then step up to the larger one.

Step 11: Add insert nuts to the bottom tray

Using a flathead screwdriver, screw threaded brass insert nuts into the holes you drilled in step 11; these will accommodate the hex-head connector bolts you’ll use to attach the sides of the cart in step 14.

Step 12: Add insert nuts to the cross pieces

At the ends of each crosspiece, find the center by drawing two lines from corner to corner. Repeat steps 11 and 12 to drill holes and add insert nuts at these spots.

Step 13: Assemble the Cart Bottom

Stand the bottom tray on a long side and the crosspieces on their ends. Lay one set of the cart’s legs over these pieces, handle recess facing down. Line up the pilot holes with the insert nuts in the tray and crosspieces. Using a hex key, twist hex-head connector bolts through the holes and into the nuts. Fit one end of the handle into the recess, and use a 1½-inch stainless-steel screw to secure it to the leg through the countersink.

Step 14: Attach the second side

Flip the cart over so that the attached side sits on the work surface. Thread the axle through the 5⁄16-inch axle hole, which is on the A leg, beneath the bottom tray of the attached side. Fit the axle hole of the cart’s second side over the axle. Line up the pilot holes, and attach the second side of the cart as described in step 14.

Step 15: Attach Wheels to the Axle

Slip the wheels onto the axle. Insert cotter pins through the holes at the axle’s ends, and bend their legs around the axle to keep the wheels in place. Cover the ends of the axle with the axle caps (included).

Tip: If you can’t bend the legs of the cotter pins by hand, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to get the job done.

Step 16: Build the bottle rack

Refer to the illustration for dimensions. Cut two 1×4 long sides, two 1×3 short sides, and three 1×3 bottle spacers. Follow the process in step 4 to glue, butt, and nail the joints together. Start by attaching the edge of a long side to the end of a short side so that they’re flush at their top edges. Next, attach the edges of the spacers along the inside face of the long side, flush with its bottom edge and spaced at proper intervals (use bottles to size them). Attach the second long side to the end of the first short side and the edges of the spacers; it should be flush with the top of the short side and the bottoms of the spacers. Finish by attaching the edges of both long sides to the ends of the second short side, flush at their tops. Fit the rack onto either tray to hold bottles in place.

Tip: If you leave the cart unfinished, the cedar will weather to an attractive silvery gray—just like a beach house. If you’d rather preserve the color of the wood or bring out its red undertones, apply a clear toner, such as Penofin, annually.

The original plan is from https://www.thisoldhouse.com

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Barbeque Cart

This easy-to-build Barbecue Cart will solve both of those problems for you.  First, it comes complete with two spacious drawers, a condiment organizer, a utensil holder, a slide-out cutting board/shelf and plenty of space for all the cooking stuff you’ll be needing.  The laminate-covered top offers plenty of space for food preparation and staging . . . it’s conveniently portable . . . plus . . . it’s attractive enough to fit in, no matter where you may choose to store it between cook-outs.

We made our example from red oak with a white laminate-covered top and lower shelf.  If you’re planning to leave the table outside, be sure to choose a weatherproof wood like red cedar, redwood or cypress for the basic construction and use waterproof glue and brass screws to put everything together.

List of Materials:

Facing Assembly – Figure 1
A – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 8″
B – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 4 1/4″
C – Top Rail(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 17″
D – Bottom Rail(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17″

Base Assembly – Figure 2
E – Back(1) 3/4″ x 8″ x 20″
F – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 8″ x 14 1/2″
G – Legs(4) 2″ x 2″ x 38″

Web Frame Assembly – Figures 3 & 4
H – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 17″
I – Rails(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 15 3/4″
J – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 12 3/4″
K – Drawer Runners(2) 1/4″ x 1″ x 16″
L – Cleats(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16 7/8″

Shelf Support Assembly – Figures 6 & 7
M – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 22 1/4″
N – Back Brace(1) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 12 3/4″
O – Front Brace(1) 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 12 3/4″
P – Guides(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ x 10 3/4″
Q – Side-Out Shelf(1) 11/16″ x 10 3/8″ x 11 1/16″
R – Bottom-Hardboard(1) 1/8″ x 14 1/2″ x 11

Bottom Shelf Assembly – Figures 8 & 9
S – Front/Back Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20
T – Side Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
U – Top-Laminate(1) 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″

Drawer Assembly – Figure 5
V – Sides(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 16″
W – Front/Back(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 6 7/8″
X – Bottoms(2) 1/4″ x 6 3/4″ x 15 1/8″
Y – False Fronts(2) 3/8″ x 5″ x 8 1/2″

Top Assembly
Z – Top-Laminate(1) – 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″
M – Side Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20 1/4″
BB – Front/Back Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 25 3/4″

Accessory Add-ons
CC – Utensil Holder(1) 3/4″ x 2″ x 17 5/8″
DD – Condiment Hold(1) 3/4″ x 4″ x 18″

Hardware
20 – 1 1/4″ x #8 Wood Screws
14 – 1 ¼” x #6 Wood Screws
4 – Wooden Screw Plugs – Optional
62 – 1” x 3/8” Dowel Pins
1 – 1” x ¼” Dowel Pin
2 – Drawer Pulls
1 – Sliding Shelf Pull
4 – Casters

Figure 1

Step 1:

First, cut all work pieces to size, following the dimensions outlined in the List of Materials

NOTE:  Be sure to allow all glued-up sub-assemblies to dry completely for 24 hours before putting them together with other sub-assemblies.

Step 2:

Using your drill press, drill (16) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces B, C and D, and glue the facing assembly together, using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins as shown in Figure 1.

Step 3:

Use your dado set-up or band-saw to cut a 10-7/16-inch wide by 1-9/16-inch deep notch in the left side of the base assembly (F) to accommodate the pull-out shelf/cutting board, which will be installed later. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 4:

Drill (50) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces A, E, F and G as shown in Figure 2.  Assemble all pieces together (including the facing sub-assembly you made in step #2, above) using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins.

Step 5:

Mount cleats (L) to the insides of the four legs (G) as shown in Figure 4, using 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins.  Position them 7-1/4” down from the tops of the legs (G) or sides (F).

Step 6: 

Cut 1/4-inch by 3/8-inch deep tongue & groove joints in the web frame stiles and rails (pieces H, I and J), as shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3

Step 7:

Glue-up the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3

Step 8:

Mount the web frame assembly to the top surfaces of the cleats you glued into position in step#5, above, using four 1 ¼” x #8 wood screws. See Figures 3 & 4.

Figure 4

Step 9: 

Cut the dado and rabbet joints in the drawer fronts and backs (parts W) and the drawer sides (parts V), as shown in Figure 5.

Step 10: 

Cut the 1-inch wide by 1/4-inch deep notches in the drawer fronts/backs (parts W) (see Figure 5).  These notches will slide on the drawer runners (parts K, Figure 3) when assembled.

Step 11: 

Using glue, assemble the drawer sides (V) front/back (W) and bottom (X), as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 5

Step 12: 

Using the drawer assemblies you made in step 11, above as guides, glue the drawer runners (K) to the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3.  Be sure the drawers slide smoothly in and out before leaving the runners to dry.

Step 13:

Using a router or belt sander, round-over the edges of the false drawer fronts (Y).

Step 14:

Glue the false drawer fronts (Y) to the fronts of the drawer assemblies (See Figure 5).

Step 15: 

Construct the shelf support assembly (M, N, O, P, R in Figure 6) using 1-1/4″ x #6 wood screws.

TIP:  Drill pilot holes for screws first to ease the assembly process. 

Figure 6

Step 16: 

Mount the completed shelf support assembly (Figure 6) to the base assembly (Figure 2), using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figures 6 & 7.

Step 17: 

Drill a 1/4-inch diameter by 1/2-inch deep hole, in a centered position, approximately 1/2-inch in from the back edge of the slide-out cutting board/shelf (part Q).  Be sure this hole is in the TOP surface of the board.  This protruding dowel will serve as a stop to keep shelf from pulling out completely.  We’ll glue this stop into position later.

Figure 7

Step 18: 

Cut the miters for the bottom shelf front, back and side rails (parts S & T).  See Figure 8.

Step 19: 

Assemble the bottom shelf with 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins and glue.  NOTE: Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (U) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 8.

Figure 8

Step 20: 

Attach the bottom shelf assembly you made in step 19 to the four legs (G) using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. We suggest that the shelf be positioned about 10-inch or so up from the bottoms of the legs.  It’s your choice. See Figure 9.

Figure 9

Step 21: 

Cut the miters for the front, back and side rails (AA & BB) of the Cart to assembly (See Figure 10). Next, cut out the utensil holder (CC) and condiment holder (DD) pieces. See Figure 10.

Step 22: 

Using glue and 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch dowels, put the top assembly together (Z, AA, BB). NOTE:  Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (Z) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 10.

Figure 10

Step 23: 

Mount the top assembly to the base assembly, using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 11.

Step 24: 

Mount the utensil holder (CC) to the side of the top assembly using two 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 10.

Step 25: 

Round the edges of the condiment holder using a belt sander or router and mount it to the laminate top with four 1-1/4-inch x #6 wood screws. See Figure 10.  If you prefer, counter-bore the screw holes and fill them with wooden plugs.

Step 26: 

Finish sand the entire Cart. Be careful not to scuff your laminate surfaces in the process.

Step 27: 

Apply a stain, oil or other finish of your choice.

Step 28: 

Install the slide-out cutting board/shelf (Q) and glue the 1/4-inch dowel pin into position as a stop.

Step 29: 

Mount the pulls of your choice on the drawers and slide-out shelf.

Step 30: 

Mount the casters

Figure 11

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.shopsmithhandson.com

<a href=”http://w00dworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/BBQ-cart.pdf” target=”_blank” rel=”noopener”><img class=”alignnone wp-image-2426 size-full” src=”http://w00dworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/PDF-icon-small-231×300-e1515477493230.png” alt=”” width=”50″ height=”65″ hspace=”20px” /></a>[email_link]

Barbeque Grill Cart

We recently bought a new gas grill to replace our old cheapie one that rusted out.  It’s a small model that requires a tabletop or a stand. Unfortunately the Weber barbecue grill cart sold separately for this grill is $100. I knew I could make something nicer for half that price.

This barbecue grill cart is beg enough to hold two propane tanks on the lower shelf. I like to have two tanks in case one runs out in the middle of cooking a meal. I’ve included an elevated platform for utensils and plates and the whole unit is mobile, using the wheels from the old grill.

Materials:

8 – 1x4x8 Cedar Boards

  • 15 pieces @ 18″ long
  • 11 pieces @ 15″ long
  • 2 pieces @ 48 1/2″ long
  • 2 pieces @ 36 1/4″ long
  • 4 pieces @ 13 1/2″ long
  • 2 pieces @ 1 1/2″ x 13 1/2″ long
  • 2 pieces @ 1 1/2″ x 12 3/4″ long

2 – 2x4x8 Cedar Boards

  • 2 pieces @ 34 3/4″ long
  • 2 pieces @ 27″ long

1 – 36″ length of 1 1/2″ dowel
2 – Wheels or castors from a old BBQ cart

Directions:

After cutting most of the pieces to length, I drilled 1 1/2″ holes in one end of each of the upper table frame. These will hold the dowel handle. I clamped the two boards together and cut both holes at once to ensure they would line up properly.

I cut a curve on the end of each of these using my bandsaw. I assembled the top frame and the lower frame into simple boxes using pocket screws.

I curved the ends of the two feet. These, and the rear uprights are made from 2x4s. They get glued and screwed into the table frames. I used the wheels from the old cart and attached them using a threaded rod.


I glued the dowel handle in place and attached a frame to the upright for the utensil platform.

To protect everything, I covered all the surfaces with a transparent redwood deck stain and sealer, then screwed all the plans into place on the frames.

The original plan is found at Woodworking for Mere Mortals at https://woodworking.formeremortals.net

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