Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Make full use of your bathroom space by building a sleek storage cabinet that also doubles as a full-length mirror. This bathroom mirror storage cabinet is 5 ½” deep on the inside, 24” wide and 60” tall, with adjustable shelving to easily fit products of any height. You can tackle this project in one afternoon.


  • (4) 1 x 6 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
  • (3) 1 x 4 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
  • 1/4 x 24 x 96” Fir Plywood
  • (28) 1 1/2” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (32) 1” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (8) 3” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (8) 1 1/2” Pocket-Hole Screws
  • (80) 5/8” Hinge Screws (typically included with packaged hinge)
  • 1 1/2 x 60” Brass Piano Hinge
  • (20) 3/8” Shelf Pegs
  • 120-Grit Sandpaper
  • 180-Grit Sandpaper
  • 3/8” Drill Bit
  • 1/8” Drill Bit
  • Pocket Hole Jig + Piloting Bit
  • Single-Strength Mirror (approx. 17 x 53”)
  • Mirror Adhesive
  • Masking Tape
  • Wood Glue
  • Clamps

Cut List:

1×6 Boards:

  • (2) pieces, 60” long for the sides
  • (2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom
  • (5) pieces, 22 3/8” long for the shelves

1×4 Boards:

  • (2) pieces, 60” long for the sides of the door
  • (2) pieces, 17” long for the top and bottom of the door
  • (2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom back rails

Step 1: Build the box

Place the two 60” 1 x 6 side pieces on-edge, parallel to each other. Apply wood glue to the ends of the two 22 1/2” 1 x 6 pieces, and place them flush between the sides at the top and bottom to form a rectangular frame. Use a drill and a 1/8” drill bit to drill three evenly spaced, 3/8” pilot holes from each end of the side pieces. Drive 1 1/2” screws through the sides and into the end pieces to assemble the cabinet box.

TIP: Depending on what type of screw you’re using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.

Step 2: Attach the back rails

Apply wood glue to the back of the 22 1/2” 1 x 4 back rail, and place it inside the cabinet box frame, flush at the back and the top of the frame. Drill pilot holes through the sides and top of the box to penetrate into the back rail. Attach the back rail using eight 1 1/2” screws. Install the second back rail in the same position on the bottom of the box.

Step 3: Drill holes for adjustable shelves

Use a 3/8” drill bit to drill two vertical rows of holes on the inside faces of the box sides, 1” from the front and back edges. Space each pair of holes 2” apart vertically, and drill the holes 1/2” deep.

TIP: Place a piece of masking tape ½” above the drill bit. This will help indicate the depth of the holes.

Step 4: Build the door

Build the door facedown. Use a pocket-hole jig, piloting bit and drill two pocket holes in both ends of the two 17” pieces of 1 x 4. Apply wood glue to the ends of the 17” pieces, and place them flush between the two 60” pieces of 1 x 4. Add clamps to the joint and then screw the door frame together with 1 1/2” pocket hole screws, using the screwdriver. Measure the overall width and length of the door frame. Cut a piece of 1/4” fir plywood to the frame’s dimensions. Apply glue and screw the plywood to the back of the door, with 1” screws spaced 6” apart.


  • Pocket holes are angular holes that allow you to join two flat pieces of wood together at 90°. Pocket holes are made with a small jig that positions the bit to penetrate through the end of one piece into the side of a corresponding piece.
  • It’s helpful to clamp the joints of the door together while joining them with screws. Add additional clamps to keep the door flat.

Step 5: Order the mirror

Measure the recess inside the door frame and subtract 3/16” from the width and length. Order a single-strength mirror to the measured dimensions.

Step 6: Sand and finish

Use 120-grit sandpaper to sand the cabinet box, shelves and door. Round over all the corners and edges. Apply the stain or paint and allow it to dry as directed. Seal the stained wood with two coats of aerosol lacquer, hand-sanding in between coats with 180-grit sandpaper.

Step 7: Install the mirror

Place the door face up on a flat surface. Apply mirror adhesive liberally to the plywood. Set the mirror into the opening. Place books or other similar items on the mirror to aid adhesion. Allow the adhesive to dry as directed.

Step 8: Hang the door

Use a 1 ½” x 60” piano hinge to the side of the cabinet box, using 5/8” screws. Place the door on the cabinet and screw the other half of the hinge to the side of the door.

Step 9: Hang the cabinet

Locate at least two wall studs in the desired location for the cabinet. Fit the cabinet on the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Anchor the cabinet to the wall through the top and bottom back rails with 3” screws driven into the wall studs.

Step 10: Install the shelves

Place 3/8” shelf pegs in corresponding shelf-peg holes. Insert the shelves in the cabinet, resting them on top of the pegs. You can store toiletries, beauty products, folded towels and other small bathroom items on the shelves.

The original plan can be found at

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Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Need more than just a mirror in a small or half bath? This project will give you a mirror and a good bit of storage. It’s perfect over a pedestal sink or vanity. The finished dimensions are 25 1/2″ tall x 24″ wide x 7 1/4″ deep.

This project uses pocket-hole joinery in a couple of steps. If you’re not familiar with it, take a look at the basics.

Cut List:

  • main shelf (1) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 15-1/2
  • sides – (2) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 24
  • back (1) – 3/4 x 23 x 24
  • top (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
  • bottom (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
  • face frame rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 14
  • face frame stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 24
  • side shelves (6) – 3/4 x 3 x 6-1/4
  • door rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 12-1/2
  • door stiles (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/2
  • door rail trim (2) – 1/4 x 2-1/2 x 12
  • door stile trim (2) – 1/4 x 1-3/4 x 23-1/2
  • mirror (1) – 1/8 x 12-3/8 x 20- 3/8
  • mirror backer (1) – 1/4 x 12-7/16 x 20-7/16
  • backer stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 20-7/16
  • backer rails (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 11-7/16

Step 1: Assemble the Base

Position the main shelf 11 1/4 inches from the ends of the sides and attach using glue and #17 x 1-1/2-inch wire brads.

Position the side assembly centered on the 23-inch side of the back, and mark on the back face of the back the positions of the sides and main shelf. Apply glue to the edges of the side assembly, and tack in place using 1-1/2-inch brads. For each side and the main shelf, drill countersink holes for 1-5/8-inch screws and drive the screws through the back and into the parts as shown.

Use wood filler to fill the edges and ends of the back. Prime and paint the main shelf, sides and back, except for the top and bottom ends of the sides and the back. Painting the back is optional.

Position the top centered on the end of the assembly nearest the main shelf and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown.

Position the bottom centered on the other end of the assembly and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads.

Step 2: Attach the face frame

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the face frame rails. Position the face frame rails flush with the ends of the face frame stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the face frame assembly flush with the edges of the sides and attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Drive brads through the top and bottom and into the face frame assembly as shown.

Prime and paint the face frame assembly.

Step 3: Add the side shelves

Use the layout below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the side shelves to shape. Drill pocket holes where indicated. Be sure to drill pocket holes as shown in three side shelves, and drill pocket holes as a mirror image to these in the remaining three side shelves.

Position one side shelf 5-9/16 inches from the top and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position a second shelf 6 7/16 inches from the bottom and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Position a third shelf centered between the first two shelves and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Apply stain to the top, bottom and side shelves. Apply painter’s tape to the painted areas adjacent to these parts before staining.

Step 4: Build the door

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Position the door rails flush with the ends of the door stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the door stile trim 3/4 inches from the outer edges and flush with the ends of the door assembly and attach using glue and #18 x 5/8-inch wire brads.

Measure the distance between the door stile trim and adjust the length of the door rail trim if necessary. Use the pattern below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the door rail trim.

Position the door rail trim flush with the outer edges of the door rails (with the curved area facing in) and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Be sure to apply glue to the ends of the door rail trim and clamp the part in place with the door stile trim until the glue sets as shown.

Mark a 1-3/4-inch x 1-3/4-inch square at the ends of the door stile trim parts. Drill a 3/4-inch hole in the center of each square using a Forstner bit as shown.

Use painter’s tape to mark off each square area, and prime and paint as shown.

Apply glue to the hole and insert a 3/4-inch furniture button. Allow the glue to set.

Apply stain to the remainder of the door, including the inside lip of the door rail trim and door stile trim.

Step 5: Install the mirror

Cut the mirror to the size indicated using a glass cutter, or have it cut to the size at a home improvement center. Cut the mirror backer to fit the opening in the door. Drill three pilot holes for 1-inch screws on the 1/2-inch side of the backer stiles and backer rails as shown.

Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer stiles (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends and edge of the mirror backer and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer rails (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends of the mirror backer and backer stiles and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Place the mirror inside the opening in the door. Place a sheet of newspaper or tissue paper on the mirror back.

Place the mirror backer assembly on top of the mirror and attach the backer stiles and backer rails to the inside of the door stiles and rails using 1-inch screws only, as shown.

Stain and apply polyurethane to the mirror backer assembly.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Attach the door centered on the opening using two hinges. Attach a pull on the door stile. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of the cabinet and the door. Attach the magnetic part to the inside of the cabinet and the plate to the back of the door as shown. Attach two keyhole hangers to the back. Hang on screws appropriate for your wall type.

The original plan can be found at

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Bathroom Vanity


  • 2 -sheets of 3/4″ Cabinet grade plywood cut as shown below.
  • 5 -8′ 1×2 poplar for face frame
  • 1- sheet of 1/2″ plywood for drawers
  • 1- sheet of 1/4″ plywood or backer board (smooth)
  • door and drawer front material (3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make)
  • 1 3/4″ wood screws
  • 1 1/4″ Kreg pocket hole screws
  • wood glue

Step 1:

Secure dividers and sides to bottom with 1 3/4″ wood screws.

Step 2:

Attach long cleats to top.  Drive two screws into each divider.

Step 3:

Attach back cleats using pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Secure bottom.  This second bottom is going to make this big vanity heavy but will add stability and help distribute the weight of the entire piece onto the bun feet.

Step 5:

Square up by checking the diagonal measurement from top left to bottom right and visa versa.  The measurement should be exactly the same.  Doesn’t matter what the number is – just make sure it’s the same. Secure the back with 3/4″ – 1 1/4″ staples or screws.

Step 6:

Build side face frames our of 1×2 poplar (which is really 3/4″ x 1 1/2″) with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.  Make sure to adjust size to fit the side of your vanity specifically.  It should be flush with the front and back (covering the exposed side of back you just attached).

Step 7:

Attach side face frames with glue and small brad nails.

Step 8:

Build front face frame, making sure the placement of the styles (vertical pieces) are in the correct place for YOUR DIY vanity.  Things don’t always turn out exactly like you planned them, even with the best planning so double check your specific dimensions before building your face frame.

Step 9:

Add countertop and feet.  Build your own countertop or buy granite or tile or do concrete, the possibilities are endless.

Step 10: Build Drawers

There are many ways to build a drawer box depending on the tools you have and your level of experience.  Build your drawers paying attention to the outside dimensions.  This will leave 1/2″ clearance for 22″ drawer glides.



Center Top Drawer Dimensions


Center Bottom 2 Drawers

Step 11: 

Build doors and drawer fronts for your double vanity. 3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make


Dimensions for false fronts and doors for sides.

Dimensions for center drawer fronts

It should be all ready to paint up, add hardware and use!

The original plan can be found at

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Bathroom Shelf


  • 3 – 2×2 at 6’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood


  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 4 – 8” angle brackets
  • 8 – 4″ or 5″ angle brackets
  • Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2×2 at 47-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16” – Shelves


Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches and the curve using a jig saw. Apply edge banding, if desired.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Three brackets per shelf will be used.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired

The original plan can be found at

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Bathroom Vanity

Build a small bath vanity with storage. These simple, step by step woodworking plans are designed for the beginner and can be built from a single sheet of plywood.

Shopping List: 

  • 1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1×6 @ 4 feet long (optional)
  • 1 – 1×2 – 1/4″ thick stock @ 8 feet long (optional decorative door trim)
  • 1 – 25 foot long roll edge banding for stained finishes
  • 3/4″ finish nails or brad nails if you are applying decorative trim
  • Either pocket hole screws or countersunk screws/finish nails
  • 2 inch screws
  • 1 1/4 inch finish nails
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Elmer’s Wood Glue
  • Elmer’s Wood Filler
  • 120 grit sandpaper
  • Primer
  • wood conditioner
  • paint
  • paint brush

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 18″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 32″ x 18″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 30 3/4″ x 12″
  • 2 – 1×6 OR 3/4″ Plywood @ 24″
  • 4 – 1×3 @ 24″
  • Cut trim pieces to fit door faces

Step 1: 

Cut plywood as shown above, with the grain, cutting long cuts first. So you would cut an 18″ wide strip off of your plywood, and then from that 18″ strip, cut the sides and shelf. You can ask the lumber store to make the cuts for you, and your plywood will be easier to transport and store.

Step 2: 

Place the bottom shelf as shown above between the sides, either using the Kreg Jig or countersunk screws or 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 3: 

Attach the 1x3s as shown above. The front 1×3 needs to be placed with a 4″ space above it. The back 1x3s need to be placed at the top, bottom of the bottom shelf, and centered.

Step 4: 

Now the toe kick. Cut out and attach with 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 5: 

Now the front apron. Same thing.

Step 6: 

For the front apron, you can glue and attach the 1/4″ trim pieces as shown above.

Step 7 Instructions: 

And the doors. You can attach trim pieces as well. The best hinges I’ve found for doors like these (full overlay) are these ones from the Home Depot

Preparation Instructions: 

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

The original plan can be found at

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Bathroom Niche Cabinet

Materials List:

  • (2) 1×4 x 96″ oak
  • (1) 1×2 x 24″ oak
  • (1) 1/4″ x 24″ x 48″ oak plywood
  • (1) 3/16″ x 2″ x 72″ mullion
  • (1) 11/16″ x 3-1/4″ x 36″ crown molding
  • (1) 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 36″ cove molding
  • (12) shelf brackets

Click to enlargen

Step 1: Plan where to put your cabinet

The cabinet fits between studs inside the wall, so it’ll work in even the tiniest bathroom. Unlike a wall-hung shelf, the cabinet lets you gain storage space without sacrificing elbow room.

We installed our cabinet next to the shower. This cabinet often fits nicely behind the bathroom door if there’s no other available space. But in most cases, it won’t work over the toilet because there’s a vent pipe in the wall. Also avoid exterior walls because they’re filled with insulation. When choosing a location, check both sides of the wall for obstructions. A light switch or shower head on the other side of the wall means the wall contains electrical cable or plumbing pipes. Some electronic stud finders can identify metal pipes and electrical cable in walls (but they’re not 100 percent reliable). You could also choose a different room. The cabinet can store—or display—anything you like in the hallway, bedrooms or family room.

Step 2: Cut, rout and drill the parts

Get started by cutting all the pieces to size (refer to Figure A). Then run a router with a Roman ogee bit along the bottom front and both bottom sides of the sill nose. Use a round-over bit to rout the top and bottom front of the shelves.

Apply wood glue along the front edge of the sill, center the sill nose over it, then clamp the pieces together until the glue dries. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any glue that oozes out. If the sill and sill nose surfaces aren’t flush, sand the pieces flat with 80-grit sandpaper.

Lay out the sides for the shelf bracket holes, following Figure A. Drill the holes 3/4 in. from the edges and spaced 1 in. apart. Use a 1/4-in. drill bit (or whatever bit size is required for your brackets). You only need to drill the holes 3/8 in. deep (wrap tape 3/8 in. from the end of the drill bit to mark the depth), although it’s OK to drill all the way through the sides since the other side will be hidden inside the wall.

After drilling the holes, sand off the pencil lines remaining on the sides with 120-grit sandpaper.

Step 3: Assemble the cabinet

Tack the cabinet box together quickly with a brad nailer. Then add screws for rock-solid corners. Glue the sill nose to the sill before assembling the cabinet.

Add casing to the box using as few nails as possible. Three nails will hold the casing tight while the glue dries.

Cut the crown molding using a simple homemade jig. The jig holds the crown upside down as you make the cuts.

Glue the crown corners together without nails or clamps. Just hold each return tightly in place for about 60 seconds. Set the completed crown aside for 20 minutes, then attach it to the cabinet.

Use wood glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails to assemble the cabinet frame (Photo 1), following Figure A. Then drill two 1/8-in. pilot holes in each corner and drive 1-1/2- in. screws to hold the corners together. Run a thin bead of glue along the back of the entire frame, then set the back panel over it. Use the back panel to square the frame, then tack the panel into place with 5/8-in. brad nails.

Lay the cabinet on its back and fasten the casing (Photo 2). Three 5/8-in. nails will hold the casing until the glue dries. Precision cuts are required for the molding corners to fit tightly. Measure along the bottom edge of the molding when you make the cuts (the top measurements will vary depending on the type of molding).

To get accurate cuts, build a simple jig to hold the molding in place during cuts. Screw or nail wood scraps together at a 90-degree angle. Set the crown molding upside down in the jig so the flat part on the back (the part that sits against the cabinet after installation) is flush against the vertical part of the jig. Fasten a stop block to the horizontal part of the jig along the top of the molding. Screw or hot-glue the jig to the fence on your miter saw so it won’t move.

Set the crown molding upside down in the jig and cut it (Photo 3). If the molding moves in the jig even a tiny bit during the cut, recut the molding or the corners won’t fit tightly together. To cut the molding returns (sides), use the jig to make the angle cuts, then cut the 90-degree angles.

Nailing the mitered corners together won’t work—the molding will crack or move as you nail it. Instead, simply glue the corners (Photo 4). Cut the cove molding for the bottom of the cabinet in the miter saw (without using the jig). Glue the cove molding pieces together. Glue and tack the assembled crown and cove moldings to the cabinet with 5/8-in. brad nails.

Step 4: Finish and mount cabinet

Sand the entire cabinet with 120-grit sandpaper and wipe away the dust with a clean cloth. Then brush on a finish. We used Minwax Golden Oak stain followed by two coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane.

Then get the wall ready. Using a drywall saw, cut a small inspection hole in the wall where the cabinet will go. Shine a light in the opening and use a small mirror to look for obstructions in the wall. If you find electrical cable or plumbing pipe, patch the hole and move over a stud space.

Make an outline on the wall (between two studs) 1/4 in. larger than the cabinet back (so it’ll fit easily) and cut out the drywall with a drywall saw. Be careful not to cut into the drywall on the other side of the wall. Finally, put the cabinet into the wall, level it, then nail through the stiles into the studs with 2-1/2-in. finish nails.

The original plan can be found at


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Wall Cabinet


For the cabinet

  • (2) Sides – 1″ x 7 1/2″ x 72″
  • (1) Bottom shelf – 1″ x 7 1/2″ x 23 1/2″
  • (3) Wide shelves – 1″ x 7 1/8″ x 23 1/2″
  • (1) Narrow shelf – 1″ x 6 1/8″ x 23 1/2″
  • (1) Central drawer divider – 1″ x 4″ x 7 1/8″
  • (7) Back slats – 3/8″ x 3 1/2″ x 41 3/8″
  • (1) Crown molding – 9/16″ x 3 1/8″ x 60″
  • (1) Crown filler piece – 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 60″
  • (1) Cap – 3/4″ x 9 7/8″ x 30 1/4″

For the drawers

  • (2) Drawer fronts – 3/4″ x 3 15/16″ x 11 1/8″
  • (2) Drawer backs – 1/2″ x 3 15/16″ x 11 1/8″
  • (4) Drawer sides – 1/2″ x 3 15/16″ x 6 1/2″
  • (2) Drawer bottoms – 1/4″ x 6 1/4″ x 10 5/8″

For the doors

  • (4) Stiles – 1″ x 2″ x 18″
  • (2) Top rails – 1″ x 2″ x 8 3/4″
  • (2) Bottom rails – 1″ x 2 1/2″ x 8 3/4″
  • (2) Panels – 1/4″ x 8 5/8″ x 14 1/2″

Click to Enlarge

Getting Started:

Begin by selecting material for the two sides and five shelves. Cut these parts to rough size, leaving two or three inches of extra length before dressing them to finished thickness. Joint one edge and rip the sides and the bottom shelf to 7 1/2″ wide. The wide shelves need to be 7 1/8″ wide and the narrow shelf 6 1/8″. Crosscut the two sides to 72″ long, but don’t make the bottom ends quite square. Instead, angle these back 1º from square, so the front edge of each side is slightly longer than the back. This tilts the completed cabinet backward slightly, making it more stable. When the cabinet’s done you’ll also anchor it to the wall as another safety measure.

Lay out the sides:

Next, place the sides on your bench, inside face up, and prepare to mark shelf locations. Before you begin, check that both sides are exactly the same length and that you have the front edge of each side clearly identified. Remember, the front is the longer edge.

Start at the top and measure down 2 1/2″. This marks the bottom edge of the top shelf, allowing 2 1/4″ for crown moulding with 1/4″ of the shelf revealed below it. Scribe a line across both sides with a square, then mark an X on the upward side of this line to show where the shelf will land.

Next, measure 11 1/2″ down from the top. This marks the spot for the bottom edge of the narrow shelf. Again, mark another X on the upward side of this line, also making note that the narrow shelf is set back one inch from the front edges of the sides to make room for the doors.

It’s time for another mark now, this time 21 1/2″ down from the top. Scribe a line across the sides and draw an X above it. This is where one of the wide shelves will go; this shelf’s top edge defines the bottom extent of the door opening.

Mark a spot 37″ down from the top, for the location of another wide shelf piece, then mark another line 42″ down. This last mark locates the bottom edge of the bottom shelf, leaving 30″ to the bottom of the sides. This dimension allows the cabinet to straddle most toilets, but if any adjustments need to be made to accommodate an unusual toilet height, make the changes now. Tweak the distance between the doors and the drawers, or upper and lower middle shelves as needed.

With your shelf lines drawn, rout a 3/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet along the back inside edges of both sides. Rout from the top down to the middle of the bottom shelf position, the place where the back slats stop.

This project is held together with #20 biscuits, so mark their locations and cut slots for them. To boost accuracy, avoid measuring and marking individual slot locations. Instead, hold the shelf in place against the sides and make one continuous pencil mark across both side pieces. Position biscuit slots about 1 1/2″ in from both front and back edges. When you’ve finished all the pencil work, cut the biscuit slots.

Lay both sides on your workbench again and insert biscuits into the slots without glue. It’s not unusual for complex biscuit-joined assemblies such as this project to run into snags as parts come together, and you don’t want that to happen with glue complicating the issue. Fit shelves onto the biscuits and dry-assemble the entire framework with the help of some clamps. Mark the shelf locations on back edges to avoid confusion during final assembly with glue. Check that the corners are square and make sure all pieces are easily aligned. This is also a good opportunity to lay out and cut the central drawer divider. Mark this on the bottom and lower middle shelf. Measure the distance between the two shelves and cut this piece with the grain running the same way as that on the sides. Take apart the framework and sand all the interior surfaces with a 120-grit abrasive in preparation for final glue-up.

Bringing the parts together:

This is the step in which things have to go smoothly, or there’s a big mess to deal with. Having just dry-fitted and labelled all the parts, make sure you have the necessary clamps on hand, pre-adjusted. When everything you need is within reach, apply glue to all the slots in one side and the corresponding slots in the shelf ends. Now butter up enough biscuits to fill these slots and assemble this part of the framework. A clean flux brush is ideal for spreading glue here.

Next, apply glue to the slots in the other side and the slots in the other ends of the shelves. Butter up more biscuits to fill these slots, nestle the second side in place, and then clamp everything together while making sure that the back edges of the shelves line up correctly with the sides. Don’t worry about alignment of the front shelf edges for now, since everything can be made flush here after the glue dries. Check and adjust the framework for square, then install the central drawer divider with glue and a few small finishing nails.

Doors and Drawers:

As with the sides, I like to use thicker material for doorframes too. It stays flatter than 3/4″ stock, and it looks better too. With the framework assembled, you can now measure accurately for the doors. The overall door opening should be 18″ x 23 1/2″, so you need to build a pair of doors measuring 11 3/4″ wide x 18″ high. You’ll need to plane these later for an optimal fit. Notice that the top rail and the side stiles are two inches wide, while the bottom rail is 2 1/2″ wide. A little extra wood along the lower part of each door gives more traditional proportions.

The doors I designed include simple 1/4″-thick flat panels cut from solid stock and bookmatched so they look great. Being split from the same piece of wood, each side of the grain pattern is a mirror image. You could use a plywood panel or a raised panel, depending on your taste and patience.

Prepare wood for door stiles and rails, including a 1/4″-wide x 1/2″-deep dado along all the inside edges of rails and stiles. Since this groove is made to accept the door panels, you may need to tweak the dado width depending on the stock you’re using. So-called 1/4″ plywood is often substantially thinner than 1/4″, so check before you rout.

The plans show how the rails are joined to the stiles with 1/4″ x 1/2″ stub tenons. Prepare these now and dry-fit the door frames together. Check for square and overall size, and then measure for the door panels. The door-panel height can be fairly tight at the top and bottom, but you should leave 1/8″ of space for seasonal movement along each side of the solid panels. Plywood panels can fit tight all around because they’re immune to moderate humidity changes.

Sand the panels and the inside edges of the frames with 120-grit sandpaper, then dry-fit the door parts to make sure they come together properly. This is a great time to prefinish the panels so they don’t show any unfinished areas if dry weather causes them to shrink. When you’re ready for final door assembly, apply glue to the stub tenons and also to the corresponding grooves in the stiles. Whatever you do, work neatly. You must avoid getting glue on the panels since it could interfere with seasonal movement and cause cracking. Clamp each door immediately after assembly and check to make sure that the corners are square and flat.

Drawer Construction:

The drawers are simple boxes with 3/4″-thick fronts and 1/2″-thick sides and backs. The bottoms can be 1/4″-thick pine or hardboard. I like to use one board for both drawer fronts so the grain pattern is continuous across them. Cut the drawer fronts, sides and back 1/16″ less in height than the opening so the drawers will slide smoothly. Label all parts, then plow a 1/4″ x 1/4″ dado to accept the drawer bottom. Corner joinery is simple: a 1/2″ x 1/2″ rabbet on both ends of the drawer fronts and a 1/4″ x 1/2″ rabbet on both ends of the drawer backs. Cut the drawer bottoms and dry-fit all drawer parts to highlight any areas that need adjustment. Check overall drawer width, then glue and clamp the parts together. A belt sander is an excellent tool for adjusting final drawer size for a smooth-sliding fit within the openings.

Fitting the doors:

The easiest way to fit the doors is to lay the cabinet on its back, and then place the doors in position. The interior shelves will hold them up. You’ll almost certainly need to make adjustments, and a sharp hand plane is the tool of choice for this job. Aim for a 1/16″ gap all around, with a slight bevel along the hinge side, so the face of each door is slightly wider than the back. This allows the doors to close without binding within the sides. Once your planing work is done, install hinges and hang the doors. I chose simple, mortise-free hinges: they don’t show much on the finished project, but the ball tips do add a bit of class to the overall impression of the project.

Once the doors are hung, final fitting is done with a sharp block plane to create an even gap around the doors, and to make sure the two doors don’t collide with each other in the centre. Take the doors off now for final sanding.

I bought some V-groove, knotty pine paneling for the back slats, the kind that comes shrink-wrapped at building-supply outlets everywhere. Select the best pieces, then sand and finish them before nailing them in place. You’ll need to take off the tongue on one back slat so it fits properly in the 3/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet you routed earlier in the sides.

Crown molding and cap:

It takes about five feet of crown moulding to cover the top of the project, and I installed it a little differently than the usual method. Start by sanding the crown by hand with 180-grit paper to get rid of the mill glaze and planer marks, then cut a triangular filler piece for behind the crown. This gives more support than with most crown installations. Cut, glue and nail the filler in place, flush with the tops of the sides, and then prepare the crown. As with the drawer fronts, cut the crown from a continuous piece of wood so grain patterns wrap around the project. You’ll get the best results if you leave the side pieces of crown longer than needed for now, then get the mitre joints right before trimming to final length at the back ends. This approach allows multiple attempts to get the all-important mitres spot-on. A sharp block plane is the ideal tool for tweaking these prominent joints.

The cap starts with a 3/4″-thick piece of pine that needs 1/2″-deep rabbets milled on all four sides. The back rabbet is 1/2″ x 3/8″ to accept the back slats; side rabbets are 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ (to extend over the crown moulding, triangular fillers and sides); and the front rabbet is 1/2″ x 2 3/8″ (to fit over the crown and the filler). The 1/4″ of cap that rises above the rabbets is best rounded over for good looks. Apply some glue, then nail the cap down into the sides.

Drill and install your drawer and door hardware, then give everything a final sanding before cleaning up the shop and getting out the finishing supplies.

Finishing up:

I chose to stain this cabinet with the old classic, Minwax Puritan Pine, followed by one coat of Minwax Wipe-On Poly. Let this dry overnight, then lightly sand the surface with 240-grit paper and apply a 50/50 blend of Wipe-On Poly and gloss polyurethane. This creates an attractive, low-lustre finish, while offering plenty of moisture protection that will stand up well in the bathroom.

The original plan can be found at

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Wall Cabinet


  • (2)Sides – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 7 1/2″ x 27 3/4
  • (2)Top/bottom – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 8″ x 24″
  • (1)Shelf – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 6 1/4″ x 21 5/8″
  • (1)Back – laminated pine – 1/4″ x 22 1/8″ x 27 3/4″
  • (2)Mounting strips – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 2″ x 21 5/8″
  • (4)Door stiles – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 1 3/4″ x 27 3/4″
  • (4)Door rails – 11/16″ x 1 3/4″ x 7 1/4″
  • (8)Door splines – laminated pine – 1/4″ x 1 11/16″ x 1″
  • (2)Door panels – acrylic/glass – 1/4″ x 7 3/4″ x 24 3/4″
  • (2)Knobs
  • (2)European cup hinges


Click to Enlargen


This cupboard is built with simple butt joints. Begin with the sides of the cupboard and cut them to length. Factory-laminated pine is often slightly thinner than standard 3/4″-thick sheets, and the measurements in the materials list assume 11/16″-thick stock. If you’re working with full 3/4″-thick wood, the final cabinet dimensions will come out slightly different than mine.

Cut the sides to size, then prepare 1/4″ x 1/4″ rabbets along their rear to accept the 1/4″-thick plywood back panel. Next, cut the shelf and the two mounting strips to width, and then trim all three parts to exactly the same lengths as each other. Sand these parts now, first using a 120-grit abrasive, then 180-grit. Join the sides to the ends of these parts using wood screws. If you decide to cover the screw heads with wooden plugs for best appearance, you’ll need to prepare counterbored holes to accept the specific plugs you’re using. See “Hiding Screw Heads” on page 58 for details.

After you cut the top and bottom pieces to size, you should add a bit of visual interest. I used a 1/2″-radius quarter-round router bit to mill the front and side edges of these pieces. Other decorative profiles work well too. After routing, attach the top and bottom pieces to the sides, creating a rectangular assembly. I used glue and #8 x 1 1/2″-long wood screws driven from the top and bottom, covered, once again, with tapered wooden plugs.

Back and Front

Cut the back panel so that it has a snug fit within the rabbets, but don’t attach it just yet. Screw the two mounting strips, which are the width of the cupboard opening, into place. These pieces will be used for fastening the cupboard to your wall. Next, it’s time to make the doors. The design I chose is simple enough for novice woodworkers. Start by cutting the rails and stiles to size, and then set your tablesaw to cut 1/2″-deep x 1/4″-wide panel grooves in the middle of the inside edges of all these parts. For the rails, you’ll also need to extend these grooves around the ends, creating a place for the door splines to interlock. The plans show how these splines are separate, free-floating pieces of wood that fit into the panel grooves in the stiles and the end grooves that you just cut in the rails. Prepare at least eight splines now, with grain running along their 1″ length.

When you are happy with the fit of stiles, rails and splines brought together without glue, measure the dimensions needed for the acrylic door panels. I had mine cut to size at a glass shop. I sanded both surfaces of each panel evenly with 100-grit sandpaper on a random-orbit sander after peeling off the protective plastic. This process creates a frosted look that obscures your household medicines, toothbrushes and hair combs stylishly.

Check the fit of both door assemblies with the panels in place, but don’t add glue yet. The door stiles and rails need to be painted before assembly, including the panel grooves. Unfinished wood in the grooves may remain visible around the translucent panels otherwise.

Paint and Hang:

Go over the project again with 180-grit sandpaper in hand, just to make sure all is smooth. I used a grey primer on the wood after final sanding, so that the semi-gloss black latex paint would cover more easily. Paint the inside of the cupboard and the back panel before attaching the panel with glue and pin nails. Door stiles and rails get painted now too, but mask the areas where the splines will go. These need to remain bare for the glue to grip. After all the paint is thoroughly dry and the doors assembled, protect the project with a clear semi-gloss urethane topcoat for a richer finish.

The doors are hung with European cup hinges, inset and flush to the cupboard sides. Decorative knobs finish off the project. When hanging your cupboard, be sure to find at least one stud for one of the screws driven through each of the mounting strips, with thread-in wall anchors for the other screws. I prefer metal drywall anchors, as they are self-tapping and have greater strength than plastic types. Once the cupboard is up, you can put your toiletries away and admire how easy it was to de-clutter your bathroom.

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Bathroom Vanity


  • Pre-Primed PureBond Plywood
    • Qty 2 – 3/4” x 2’ x 8’
    • Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 4’
    • Qty 1 – 1/4” x 2’ x 2’
  • Pre-Finished PureBond Plywood
    • Qty 1 – 1/2” x 2’ x 8’
    • Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 8’
    • Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 4’
  • Qty 2 – 2 x 2 x 8’ Poplar
  • Qty 1 – 1 x 2 x 8’ Poplar
  • Qty 2 – 1 x 3 x 6’ Poplar
  • Qty 2 – 1 x 8 x 6’ Poplar
  • 8’ – 3-1/4” Baseboard Trim
  • 8’ – 1” Base Cap Molding
  • Qty 8 – Liberty 20 in. Soft Close Full Extension Drawer Slide (1-Pair)
  • Qty 2 – Liberty 90-Degree Surface Mount Hidden Spring Hinge (1-Pair)
  • Qty 10 – Liberty 3” Glass Pulls
  • Qty 2 – Liberty Glass Knob
  • 2-1/2″ Kreg Pocket Screws (Coarse)
  • 1-1/4″ Kreg Pocket Screws (Coarse)
  • 1-1/4″ Brad Nails
  • 1-1/4″ Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue

Make sure to note where your plumbing is located. If it comes out of the floor like mine did you will have to modify the depth of you bottom drawers so the plumbing can be run behind one or both.

When it comes to installing your vanity every situation will be different but the vanity should be leveled from front to back and side to side. Shim as required and then secure the back of the vanity into the wall studs with appropriately sized screws. Once that is done the top and sink can be installed. Then the plumbing and faucet can be finished.


The original plan can be found at

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