Rustic Bathroom Vanity

The plans follow, but I do want to warn you, this is NOT a beginner project, so please don’t tackle as a first project.  But it’s not difficult, just alot of pieces and a need for precision when cutting and assembling.

Shopping List:

  • 5 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 48″ x 48″ 1/4″ plywood panel (for drawer bottoms)
  • 3 – 16″ Euro Style Drawer Slides
  • 3 – Back sockets that match the drawer slides
  • 3 Bin Pulls
  • 1 1/4 inch finish nails
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

Cut List:

Cut list is per ONE bath vanity

  • 6 – 1×6 @ 31-3/4″ – side panels – cut three from 8′ long boards
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 18″ – side trim
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 32″ – back supports
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 31-3/4″ – front legs
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 26-1/2″ – front face frame, top and bottom
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 26-1/2″ – front face frame, middle
  • 2 – 1×6 @ 31-3/4″ – back
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 31-3/4″ – drawer slide supports
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 35″ – front trim – cut to fit

Drawers

  • 4 – 1×6 @ 16″ – larger drawer sides
  • 4 – 1×6 @ 23-3/4″ – larger drawer front/back
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 16″ – top drawer sides
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 23-3/4″ – top drawer front/back
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood @ 25-1/4″ x 16″ – drawer bottoms

Step 1:

Build the two side panels by laying three 1x6s down on a flat level surface, ensuring tops and bottoms are even.  TIP: I glue each 1×6 together, edge to edge and let dry to hold in place.  Attach the 1×2 trim on top of panels, overhanging ends by 3/4″.  There is a 2-1/2″ space under the bottom trim (see diagram in step 3).

Step 2:

Drill two pocket holes on each end of the back 1×3 support boards.  Attach with pocket hole screws, pocket holes exposed on back of cabinet.

Step 3:

Build the front face frame on a flat level surface with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.  Once complete, nail and glue to front of cabinet.

Take a second to ensure your cabinet is square – you can do this by taking diagonal measurements from opposite outside corners of the top of the cabinet, and adjusting until the diagonals match.

Step 4:

Nail and glue back pieces to the sides and top/bottom supports.  The purpose of these guys is to give you something to attach the drawer slides too, while still providing a finished edge (no plywood edges exposed on the back.

Step 5:

Nail and glue the 1×2 inside cleats to the face frame.  The purpose of these guys is to give you something to attach the drawer slides to on the front.

Step 6:

Finish the front trim – measure and cut to fit and nail and glue in place.

Step 7:

For full size drawers that don’t need to be cut around plumbing, construct as shown here with pocket holes.  Nail and glue bottom plywood on.

Step 8:

If you have to build drawers around plumbing, keep the same basic cuts, just install the back where it passes the plumbing and box out corners as needed.

Step 9:

The drawer slides are installed attached to the 1×2 cleat at front, and with a end socket on the back.

Step 10:

For the top, I used 1x boards and pocket holed them together, leaving an opening for my sink.  For my sink, I used 1x4s on front and back, and 1×12 pieces on the sides.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/

 
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