Category: B

Bathroom Cabinet

We have a small master bathroom and needed some more storage space. The logical place ended up being above the toilet. Rather then just bolting a cabinet to the wall I wanted a little more style and this standing cabinet seemed to fit the bill just perfectly.
This project has been a long time coming. I started it earlier this year but other things kept getting in the way. Now that it’s done I’m very pleased with the way it turned out. From my original design this cabinet has had numerous changes and not all of them well documented. The difficult part now is remembering how I built it so I can share it with you. Like most of my projects I started with a 3D CAD drawing that I generate in Rhinoceros, this helps me get dimensions and see how things are going to fit together.
While it looks like a difficult project it’s really pretty easy. It’s made up of four parts the stand, the cabinet and two doors. I’ll give you some options as we go through this that may change the way you build your cabinet so let’s get started.

We’ll start with the legs for the stand. They are made from 5/4″ straight grain fir. I glued two 6″ X 96″ X 5/4″ pieces together, first rolling the glue on both pieces of wood.

I like Titebond glue but you have to work quickly if you use Type II. Next I clamped the dickens out of it and let it dry overnight.

I like Titebond glue but you have to work quickly if you use Type II. Note: You could cut the boards in half before you glue, it works either way. Next I cut the boards in half and then cut them down to 2” x 2”.

I used my Freud Glue Line Rip blade because it produces nice clean edges that require little sanding. I also use it because I don’t have a jointer.

Now cut the legs to length. Mine are 38” long because we are going to put in a “comfort height” toilet. If you are making this for a standard toilet you’ll probably want to make them a little shorter

To cut them to the exact length I clamped a board to my tablesaw 38” away from the blade and it stops just before the wood enters the blade, this prevents any possible binding and kick back. Using the taper jig I made, I tapered the last 8 ¾” of each leg down to 1 ½” square

Round the edges of the legs using a 3/8” roundover bit in your router. Next I cut the cross pieces and end pieces out of clear ¾” pine. The top front, top back and leg spreader are all 22 ¼” x 2 ½”. The four end pieces are 6 ½” x 2 ½”

Now we’ll cut the mortise and tenon’s. I start with the cross pieces and then the legs, this allows me to precisely align the location of the mortise.

It is important to make good clean tenon’s so measure them carefully. I set my tablesaw blade to 3/16” verifying it with a piece of scrap wood.

Set the fence ¾” from the blade and cut all four sides of all seven pieces.

I used the same technique for cutting these as I did for the length of the legs. Set a stop just short of the saw blade and use your miter for the wood. To cut the cheeks I used my handy dandy heavy duty Tenoning Jig.

Carefully lay out the marks for the mortise. I offset the cross pieces to within 1/8” of the leg faces, this makes for a nice reveal at the joint. I aligned the top cross pieces flush to the top. The lower side pieces are 7” up from the bottom and the back piece is 10 ¾” up from the bottom. Using a ½” forstner bit, drill ¾” deep holes following the guidelines.

I used the drill press table I made to make each mortise exactly the same

Set the stop block to register the top end

Using a sharp chisel clean out the mortise and square the ends. Cut a curved detail in the front cross support. I used a French curve to lay out the lines.

Cut out the detail using a scroll saw or band saw. Round over the edges of the detail, the bottoms of the top cross pieces and the top and bottom of the lower cross pieces using a ¼” roundover bit. Now its time to glue it all together. Apply glue to the tenon’s and inside of the mortise’s. Clamp the stand using cauls under each clamp.

Next we will build the cabinet that mounts to the stand. I made the cabinet out of clear pine and ¼” plywood. We’ll begin by cutting the sides 9” x 38” x ¾”. There will be one shelf that is dadoed into the sides. Set up a ¾” dado blade in your table saw to cut a dado 3/8” deep.

The shelf will be 5 ¾” from the bottom. Set a stop on the miter fence and cut the dado’s all the way through.

I cut them all the way through because I’m going to paint my cabinet and they won’t show. If you are going to use a stain finish you may want to stop short of the front and chisel out the dado. The sides are held to the top and bottom by biscuit joints. Lay out for three biscuits on each end marking both sides at the same time.

Cut in the biscuits on the top and bottom of both sides.

The back of the cabinet will be ¼” plywood so we need to dado in the backs of the side to recess the back. I attache a piece of scrap wood to the tablesaw fence and set the dado blade to ¼” deep x 3/8” wide. Mark the beginning and end of the dado blade on the fence. Use this to align your start and stop points on the side.

Use a chisel to complete the dado cut, squaring the ends.

I used my shelving jig to drill the holes for the shelf holes.

Cut the shelf that fits in the dado’s 8 7/8” x 24 ¼”. Cut the top and bottom 10” x 26 ½”. Round over the front and side edges of the bottom with a ¾” Roundover bit.

Add a crown molding around the top front and sides. There is a large selection of different styles available at most home supply stores. Dado the backs of the top and bottom the same as the sides to fit the ¼” plywood back. Align the backs of the top and bottom with backs of the shelves and mark the centers for the biscuits. The cabinet is now ready to glue up. Glue the biscuits, their pockets, the shelf ends and the dado that goes in. Work quickly before the glue starts to set up or use a slow drying glue

Use pipe clamps with cauls. Measure from corner to corner to make sure that it is square, then let dry overnight.

I cut the back out of ¼” plywood to fit inside the dado’s I’d cut. Apply glue to the edges and nail it in place. I did sand the inside face first to make finishing easier later on.

Now it’s time to make the doors. I decided to use lap joints for the corners. I was after an old fashion look and square corner joints seemed to fit the ticket. Each door will be 30” x 12 ½” and made from ¾” clear pine and plywood. Start out by cutting the rails and stiles 30” x 1 ½” and 12 ½” x 1 ½”. Using a dado cut a 1 ½” lap joint ¾” deep on each end.

I used a stop on my miter fence to make repeatability easy. I cut a ¼” dado down the middle of each rail and stile to hold the ½” plywood.

Notice that I stopped just short of the end of each piece. This saved me from having to chisel out each corner. Cut ¼” plywood to fit inside the frame. Glue only the corners, not inside the dado for the plywood. You want the plywood to be able to float with weather changes.

Work quickly so the glue does not dry and clamp each corner.

Be sure to check the squareness of each door by measuring from corner to corner. The dimension should be the same. For hinges I decided on non-mortise hinges. Even though they are non-mortise hinges I decided to inset them a little. I used my plunge router and clamped a piece of wood on each side for stability and routed a mortise on the cabinet side.

While I didn’t get any good photos of the next few steps, they are pretty straight forward.

I cut a ¼” piece of plywood to fit eactly between the rails of the doors approximately 7” high. Glue and clamp this piece in place. Cut the fake drawer fronts from ½” clear pine 4 ½” x 10 ½”. Round over all four sides with a ½” roundover bit. Glue these centered and flush to the top of the bottom stile. Now add the trim strips. I made them from ¼” x ½” clear pine and rounded over the edges with a 1/8” roundover bit.

Cut four of them to fit the width of the door plus ¼” to allow for the miter on one end. Miter one end 45 degrees. Cut the tiny end pieces to fit the edge of the door plus ¼”. Miter both ends 45 degrees but in the opposite directions as shown.

Glue and nail the trim strips with finishing nails. Apply your finish of choice to the cabinet and it’s ready to mount to the base. Drill holes for the pulls that go on the cabinet doors and fake drawer front. A little trick I like to use is a sticky note to lay out the lines for drilling.

I used figure eight fasteners to hole the cabinet to the base

Drill countersink holes with a forstner bit so the figure eight fastener is flush to the top.

Screw in the figure eight fasteners with flat head screws.

Set the cabinet on the top of the base and screw up through the figure eight fasteners. Cut and paint some shelves to fit inside the cabinet and you are good to go.

Since this cabinet has a small base it should be attached to the wall for stability.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.runnerduck.com/bathroom_cabinet/bathroom_cabinet.htm

 
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Bathroom Cabinet

Materials:

Laminated Pine

  • Sides – 2 – 3/4″ x 15 1/4″ x 36″
  • Shelves/base – 3 – 3/4″ x 14″ x 13 1/8″
  • Top – 1 – 3/4″ x 16″ x 16″
  • Legs – 4 – 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 8″
  • Skirts – 4 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 10″
  • Door Stiles – 2 – 3/4″ x 1 7/8″ x 30 1/2″
  • Door Rails – 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 9 1/8″
  • Drawer Face – 1 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 13″

Plywood

  • Back – 1 – 1/4″ x 14″ x 36″
  • Drawer sides – 2 – 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″
  • Drawer back/front – 2 – 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ x 11 1/8″
  • Drawer Bottom – 1 – 3/16″ x 11 5/8″ x 13 5/8″

Misc

  • Door glass – 1 – 1/8″ x 9 5/8″ x 26″
  • Drawer slides – 1 set – 14″ long – 3/4 Extension
  • European cup hinges – 120 degree inset

Frame:

Begin by cutting the main parts to size. Next, prepare a 1/4″-thick x 1/4″-wide, two-sided groove along the rear edge of each cabinet side. These grooves, called “rabbets,” are made to accept the plywood back panel that comes later. For now, sand all parts to 120-grit, and then begin assembly with the bottom, the two shelves and the two sides. As you can see in the plans, I spaced the shelves evenly, but choose whatever spacing suits you best. You could use biscuits to secure the shelves, but I used glue and #8 x 1 1/2″-long wood screws driven in through the sides. If you use screws, create counterbored holes for the screw heads so you can cover them later with tapered wooden plugs. Complete this first part of the assembly by fastening the top to the upper ends of the sides with more counterbored screws or biscuits.

Drawer and Door

While this cabinet has a glass door that makes it easy to find things, there’s also an enclosed drawer that can stow items out of sight. Since this drawer is small and won’t hold much weight, simple butt joints are more than strong enough. I used 1/2″-thick, cabinet-grade plywood for the sides, front and back of the drawer. A 3/16″-thick plywood bottom panel fits into 3/16″-wide x 1/4″-deep grooves in the sides, front and back. Cut these grooves at the tablesaw or router table. Then, assemble the drawer with the bottom panel in place. I used glue and 18-gauge brads, but #6 x 1 1/4″-long wood screws work well too. Either way, attach the drawer glides and test the drawer in its opening with the drawer face left off. You’ll add the face later, during the final assembly.

Now, build the frame that forms the door. The vertical members are called “stiles,” and the horizontal ones are “rails.” I joined these parts with 3/8″-diameter x 1 1/2″-long dowels set in holes created with a dowelling jig. The stiles are narrow enough that the biscuits would protrude beyond the edges of the door, but that’s OK. Trim them flush after the door is assembled and the glue is dry.

To create, the rabbet to house the glass, set up a table-mounted router with a straight bit or bearing-equipped rabbeting bit and cut the 1⁄8″-deep x 1/4″-wide profile on the rear-facing, inside edges of the rails and stiles. The corners of the rabbets will be rounded, so square them off with a chisel so the glass can fit in. Bore holes in one stile for European cup hinges, and then install the door and make sure it swings properly.

For the leg assemblies, glue three pieces of the pine shelving together to make four 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ blocks each 8″ long. Taper the ends of the legs on their inside edges. A simple tapering jig for the tablesaw can be used, but a bandsaw also works well. Sand the legs using 80- then 120-grit abrasives, and then cut the skirt pieces and drill two counterbored holes for the #6 x 1 1/4″-long wood screws that fasten each skirt to the underside of the cabinet. Attach the legs to the skirts with more 3/8″-diameter x 1 1/2″-long dowels. Finally, screw the skirt-and-leg assembly to the base of the cabinet.

 

Finale:

Double-check the action of the door and drawer, then cut and attach a drawer face to fit over the drawer box before giving everything a final hand-sanding with 120-grit sandpaper. If you built your cabinet from a knotty softwood, as I did, paint the project with a resin-blocking primer to prevent resin from bleeding through the final finish. I applied two coats of coloured stain, followed by a protective topcoat of semi-gloss urethane. Once everything is dry, set the glass in place and secure it to the back of the door with mirror clips. Since the glass sits flush with the back face of the door frame, use the flat side of each clip against the glass. Finally, find and install cool-looking pulls for the drawer and door, and your job is done. Your cabinet is now ready to fill up with all the lotions and potions one could need in any bathroom.

 

The original plan can be found at http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/7246/project-plans/space-saving-bathroom-cabinet#instruction2
 
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Bathroom Wall Storage

Simple woodworking plans to help you build a Bath Storage Shelf with robe hooks designed to store towels and other bathroom supplies. Featuring two cubbies, top shelf storage with protective ledge and two hooks, these beginning woodworking plans will help any do it yourself newbie build a Pottery Barn Matilda Wall Storage inspired bath storage.

Materials:

  • 1 – 1×6 @ 2’ long
  • 1 – 1×8 @ 8’ long
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 4’ long
  • 1 – ¾” x ¾” cove base moulding
  • 2” screws
  • 1 ¼” finish nails
  • 2” finish nails
  • 1 ¼” pocket screws

Dimensions:

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×8 @ 17″ (Sides)
  • 2 – 1×8 @ 21″ (Shelves)
  • 1 – 1×8 @ 10″ (Center Divider – Optional)
  • 1 – 1×6 @ 21″ (Base)
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 24″ (Crown)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 6 3/4″ (Cut to fit – Side Crown)
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 12 1/4″ (Back)
  • Cove Moulding to fit

Step 1:

From the ends cut a scroll pattern as shown above with a jigsaw. Make sure both ends match and sand any rough areas. Your 1x8s may vary slightly in width, adjust accordingly.

Step 2:

If you use a Kreg Jig, attach shelves as shown above. Otherwise, use 2″ finish nails and wood glue to attach – or you could use 2″ screws.  Leave a 10″ space between the shelves for the shelf partition – see next step.

Step 3:

We choose not to add the center partition, but if you want, fasten in place. Use 2″ finish nails and glue. You won’t be able to do pocket holes because of the clearance here.

Step 4:

Attach base as shown above. Make sure you also attach to the bottom shelf too.

Step 5:

Tack the back on with 1 1/4″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 6:

Now the front crown. 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue as directed in the diagram.

 

Step 7:

And the ends. Cut to fit, as your 1x8s can vary in width.

Step 8:

Cove moulding should be no more than 3/4″ wide x 3/4″ tall, like this. Miter the corners at 45 degrees and glue and tack on with 1 1/4″ finish nails.

Step 9:

The best way to hang is through the 1×6 into a stud in the wall behind.

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/2011/07/martina-bath-wall-storage-shelf-hooks

 
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Bathroom Cabinet

We sized this project to accommodate a reclaimed shutter as the door. You will need to make sure to resize the parts of this project to allow for the size of the door. The finished dimensions are 47-1/2″ tall x 23-1/4″ wide x 24-3/4″ deep.

Materials:

  • 4 – 1x2x8’ Lumber
  • 6 – 1x3x8’ Lumber
  • 1 – 1x4x8’ Lumber
  • 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Doorknob hardware
  • #18 x 1 ¼” wire brads
  • #18 x 5/8” wire brads
  • 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
  • #17 x 1 ½” wire brads
  • European inset hinges

Click to enlargen

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×4 Lumber @ 15 ¼” long
  • 7 – 1×3 Lumber @ 15 ¼” long
  • 2 – 1×3 Lumber @ 33 ¾” long
  • 8 – 1×3 Lumber @ 46” long
  • 3 – 1×2 Lumber @ 16 ½” long
  • 6 – 1×2 Lumber @ 17 3/8” long
  • 3 – 1×2 Lumber @ 18 1/8” long
  • 8 – 1×2 Lumber @ 21 ¾” long
  • 2 – 20 1/8” x 39 ¼” – ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 18” x 39 ¼” – ¼” plywood
  • 3 – 18 1/8” x 17 3/8” – ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 21 ¾” x 23 ¼” – ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 21 ¾” x 20 ¼” – ¾” plywood

Step 1: Make the side and back assemblies

Fig.1

Drill two pocket holes on both ends of the bottom rails, middle rails and top rails. Use Fig. 1 as a guide for cutting to shape the bottom ends of the legs.

Position the bottom rails, middle rails, and top rails as shown in Fig. 2 and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. Create three assemblies.

Fig. 2

Position the back panel centered and flush with the top of one of the assemblies (be sure to place the panel on the pocket-hole side) and attach using glue and #18 x 5/8-inch wire brads (Fig. 3). Label this the back assembly.

Fig. 3

Position the back shelf supports as shown in Fig. 4 and attach using glue and #18 x 1 1/4-inch wire brads. For the back shelf support in the middle, only drive the brads through the last 5/8-inch at the end of the supports.

Position a side panel flush with the top and one end of one assembly (be sure to place the panel on the pocket hole side) and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Attach the remaining side panel to the remaining assembly, making sure it is a mirror image of the previous assembly with the side panel.

Fig. 4

Position the side panel assemblies flush with the back panel assembly as shown in Fig. 5 and scribe the position of the shelf supports onto the side panel assemblies.

Position the side shelf supports spaced apart the same distance as the back shelf supports and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch wire brads. For the side shelf support in the middle, only drive the brads through the last 5/8-inch at the end of the supports

Fig. 5

Step 2: Create front Assembly

Fig. 6

Drill two pocket holes on each end of the front stiles, and one pocket hole centered and horizontal along the length of the stiles. Position the front stiles flush with the ends of the remaining bottom rail and top rail with the horizontal pocket holes pointing out and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. Position this assembly flush with the top end of the two remaining legs (make sure the angle cut on the bottom of the legs are facing inward) and attach to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Be sure to also drive screws through the horizontal pocket holes on the stiles as shown above.

Step 3: Assemble the base and attach the shelves

Fig. 7

Position the back assembly flush with the top and back edge of the side assemblies and attach using glue and #17 x 1-1/2-inch wire brads. 
Position the shelf nosing flush with the edge and 18-1/8-inch wide end of the shelves and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Build three shelf assemblies.Position the shelves on the shelf supports, beginning with the bottom shelf, with the shelf nosing flush against the front edge of the shelf supports, and attach to the supports (sides and back) using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown in Fig. 7.

Fig. 8

Position the front assembly flush with the top and front edge of the side assemblies and attach using glue and #17 x 1-1/2-inch wire brads as shown in above image. Check the assembly for square by measuring it diagonally and clamp in place if needed to attain square until the glue sets.

Step 4: Build and attach top

Fig. 9

Position the sub top on the top end of the assembly, flush with all edges, and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position a sub top trim part on the front of the assembly, flush with the top edge and sides of the sub top and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position a second sub top trim part on the back of the assembly, flush with the top edge and sides of the sub top and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position the two remaining sub top trim parts flush with the top edge of the sub top and the ends of the first two sub top trim parts, and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown in Fig. 9.

Fig. 10

Position the top on the sub top, flush with all edges, and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position a top trim part on the front of the assembly, flush with the top edge and sides of the top and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position a second top trim part on the back of the assembly, flush with the top edge and sides of the top and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Position the two remaining top trim parts flush with the top edge of the top and the ends of the first two top trim parts, and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown in Fig. 10.

Step 5: Attach the shutterdoor


Attach two hinges, spaced equidistantly apart, on the edge of the shutter. Position the shutter centered from in the opening from top to bottom, with a spacer (a paint stirrer works nicely) between the shutter and the front of the assembly. Attach the hinges to the front stile.

Attach a door pull at the desired position on the shutter.
As an option, you can attach a magnetic catch to the shutter and inside of the bath pantry assembly or a latch on the outside of the shutter and bath pantry assembly to keep the door closed.

Step 6: Finishing Touches


Fill nail holes and apply paint or stain and polyurethane as desired on the project. Depending on the condition of the reclaimed shutter, you may want to apply a coat of polyurethane to seal the shutter.

This original plan can be found at http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/carpentry-and-woodworking/how-to-build-an-armoire-storage-cabinet

 
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Bat Box

Bats are underrated. Besides being the only mammal that flies, most North American bats are nocturnal insectivores, which means they feed on night-flying insects—especially mosquitoes. In fact, a small bat can devour more than 600 mosquitoes in a single hour. They also eat beetles, wasps, and moths. So encouraging bats to nest near your house is a natural way to keep your yard bug-free.

This bat house is easy to make in an afternoon. Its shallow construction is designed specifically to attract bats, which like cramped, dark spaces for nesting. Kids can do lots of the work involved in making this bat house, including measuring, driving screws, and painting. Parents need to help out with the sawing. Once you’ve finished it, hang your bat house high in a sunny corner of your backyard, and the bats will soon find a stylish new home.

Step 1: Overview

Bats are very particular about where they’ll live, and their houses have to be constructed in a specific way that encourages them to nest. The inside of this house is painted black to keep it dark and warm, and the outside is a color that makes it blend in with the surroundings. The space where they go inside the house and roost is only about ¾ inch thick (with a small gap for air circulation). Still, dozens of bats will be able to live in this box and raise their pups.

When working on this project, keep safety in mind at all times. A jigsaw is better off in adult hands, but kids can help out by caulking, driving screws, attaching the netting, and painting. Make sure everyone has safety glasses on when the saw is in use, and keep sleeves away from power tools.

Step 2: Measure and Cut Plywood

Using a tape measure and straightedge, mark up for cutting a 2-by-4-foot piece of ½-inch exterior-grade plywood: You’ll need one piece that’s 2 feet wide and 26 inches long and one that’s 2 feet wide and 22 inches long. Clamp the plywood to a worktable. Make sure you have on safety glasses, then use a jigsaw or a circular 
saw to cut the plywood.

To parents: Using a jigsaw is definitely a job for an adult. But take this opportunity to teach your kids saw safety so they’ll be ready when they’re old enough.

Step 3: Draw the bat design

Print out the template for the bat cutout. Or create your own bat shape using circular and oblong templates called French curves (available at most office supply stores). 
 Lay out the bat shape on the edge of the shorter piece of plywood—just make sure it’s 24 inches wide.

Hey, kids! French curves are great for helping you draw the bat wings, but you can also trace cans or cups to make curves of different sizes.

Step 4: Drill Holes for Jigsaw

Clamp the plywood with the bat design to your worktable, making sure the whole bat hangs over the edge. Using a drill/driver with ¼-inch bit, drill holes just inside the points of the bat shape. This will make it easy to turn your jigsaw blade as you cut out the curved parts.

Step 5: Cut out the bat

Using a jigsaw fitted with a narrow scroll blade, which is designed for making intricate curves, cut out the bat design. Cut the shape closest to the edge first, then cut the whole bat from the sheet. Because both halves of the cutline need to look clean, work slowly and carefully. Whenever you get to a drill hole at one of the points, stop the saw and turn it before you continue.

Step 6: Make the sides

To raise the front panel off the back and create a small crawl space to house the bats, you’ll need strips of lumber around the edges. Cut three pieces from a 1×2: one 24-inch piece and two 19-inch pieces.

Step 7: Attach the sides

Using a caulk gun, lay a bead of caulk along the face of the long 1×2. Line it up with the top edge of the larger piece of plywood, and clamp it in place with spring clamps. Using a drill/driver, drive 1-inch deck screws through the 1×2 and into the plywood every 6 inches to hold it in place.

Attach the two shorter pieces to the sides in the same manner, and caulk the ends where they meet the top piece before you clamp them down. Use a damp rag to wipe up any caulk that oozes out.

Hey, kids! You can help out with the caulking while your parents get the clamps ready.

Step 8: Paint the parts

Using a brush and roller, paint the back piece black, from the top edge to the ends of the 1x2s. Also paint the back of the front piece black. These will form the dark inside of the bat house.

Paint the other surfaces in a color that will help maintain a healthy temperature inside the house. If you live in the North, a dark color can keep the house toasty by absorbing the sunlight. In the warm South, a light color may be a better choice. Be sure all surfaces of the wood are painted and well sealed.

Let the paint dry completely.

Step 9: Attach the netting

Unroll the deer netting, and lay it over the inside of the back section, flat against the plywood. Using a staple gun, attach the netting to the inner edge of the top 1×2 and along the sides. Make sure to pull it taut so that it can’t sag when bats hang from it. Extend the netting all the way over the bottom edge, and wrap it around to the back. Once it’s stapled all around, cut off the excess.

Step 10: Attach the front piece

Caulk along the face of the 1x2s on the back section. Place the front piece onto the 1x2s, with the bat shape facing the bottom, and the top edges and corners lined up. Clamp it in place. Drive 1-inch screws every 6 inches through the face and into the 1x2s to secure it.

Step 11: Put on the bat cut out

Caulk the exposed sections of the 1x2s, then place the cutout onto them, just below the large front piece. Leave a ½-inch gap between the two for the air vent. Clamp the piece, and attach it in place with a single 1-inch screw on each side.

Step 12: Hang it up

Hang your bat house under the eaves of your house or from a tall, flat pole made from pressure-treated lumber. (Make sure to bury one-third of the lumber in the ground to keep it steady.) Attach it by driving 3½-inch deck screws through the corners into the siding or fascia of your house or, if you’re using a pole, along the middle at the top and bottom.

The bat house should be at least 15 feet off the ground, away from bright lights. Choose a place that faces south so that it gets plenty of sunlight (aim for 6 to 10 hours of exposure). This will keep it nice and hot—just the way bats like it!

To parents: Hanging the bat house is a job best left for adults. Just be sure to practice when you put it up.

The original plan can be found at https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/fun-family-project-how-to-build-bat-house

 
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Bat Box

One of the most surprising changes to have taken place during the last 15 years is the new way many people view the natural world around us, Accelerating deterioration of the environment is making it difficult to deny that the assumptions behind conventional ideas of progress are seriously flawed. Old ideas be reexamined, reworked, and made new. This new view includes seeing the world as an interconnected whole, not just a series of fragmented parts. Bats are creatures we’d be wise to include in this view. Some people say it’s essential that we do. One of these is Dr.Merlin Tuttle.

Concerned about rapidly declining bat populations world-wide, Dr. Tuttle formed the non-profit organization Bat Conservation International (BCI) in 1982, Based in Austin, Texas, and dedicated to the research and promotion of bats as harmless creatures. BCI has compiled a large body of knowledge to support its purpose. Building a bat house for your property is a good first step toward cultivating an understanding and appreciation of
these interesting animals. If this idea scares you, perhaps a few facts will put you at ease.

  1. Bats are mammals. Females usually give birth to and nurse only one pup per year. For this reason, bat populalions grow very slowly and are especially vulnerable 10 devastation.
    2. Bats are not blind. In fact, they have excellent vision and use echo location
    to track down their prey much like dolphins do. They do not get tangled in people’s hair and are no more likely to carry disease than any other wild animal.
    3. The little brown bat (Myotis Iucifagus) and the big brown bat (Epresicus Fuscus)
    are two of the most common species found in Canada. One little brown bat can consume 600 mosquitoes per hour during its nightly feeding flights.
    4. Bats in other parts of the world are essential for pollination of hundreds of
    different kinds of plants (including avacados, bananas, mangos, and peaches) and the dispersal of seeds necessary for the regeneration of the rain forests.
    5. Bats in Canada either hibernate or migrate south during the winter. If awoken by human disturbance while hibernating, one little brown bat will consume enough fat stores to sustain it for 67 days of sleep. Several of these disturbances will kill them.


The bat house design presented here is a of research gathered from several sources and incorporates the latest features intended to appeal to the kind of bats found in Canada. Unfortunately, there’s still a great deal to learn about bats and their housing requirements. For this reason, it’s not possible to guarantee these creatures will move into a house simply because you’ve put it up.

Recent experience shows that bat houses are most effective when placed near buildings containing a nuisance bat population. Blocking up their entry holes after dark can result in the colony moving into the bat house out of necessity. There have also been reports of them moving into houses without being intentionally evicted from neighboring buildings, although this process can sometimes take several years.

Whatever the experience of others, and wherever live, it’s still worthwhile to build a few houses, put them up, and see what happens. If nothing else, they’ll stand as a symbol of your conservation ethic and provide many opportunities to introduce others to the value of these helpful and misunderstood creatures.Over the years, researchers have discovered that the following features should be incorporated into anything you build to attract the kind of bats found in our put of the world:

  • an internal structure of partitions arranged with a 3/4″ space between them
  • Rough, unfinished inner surfaces to allow bats to climb up and around inside the structure
  • A construction style and level of workmanship that leads to warm and dry conditions inside the house

To these three points I’ve added two of my own:

  • a variable width crevice/ledge, My own observation of the little brown bat (most common species in my part of the country) has shown that they can crawl through openings much narrower than 3/4″. They also seem to prefer horizontal ledges at the openings of their favorite crevices. The variable width crevice/ledge found on both sides of the house allows experimentation that may lead to a understanding of what bats prefer
  • the house should be simple to construct and easy to mount on buildings or trees

Fig. 1

Fig. 1 is a cut-away view of the front of the house showing the internal structure of the partitions. These partitions are made of 1/2″ sheathing grade plywood and are the same size and shape as the sides of the house, which are made of 3/4″ pine.
Fig. 2 is an overview of all the required parts, with dimensions and angles. Create everything you’ll need for as many houses as you’d like to build now. Each one will require two sides, six internal dividers, and one each of the front, back, roof. and mounting bracket. To incorporate the variable width crevice/ledge feature, you’ll also need a couple of small strips of pine, also shown in Fig. 3.

Fig. 2

Assembling this project is simple. Use 2 1/2″ ardox finishing to attach the front and back members to one side of the house. Allowing these parts to stick out 1/8″ to 1/4″ beyond the side makes this butt joint look more attractive than if joined flush, (see Fig. 3).

Place the other side member tight against the inside surface of the side you’ve just nailed on, in between the front and back pieces. This second side member will act as a temporary 3/4″ spacer, against which you can place the first of the plywood dividers. Fasten this divider to the front and back pieces with 1 1/2″ finishing nails, four through the front and five through the back of the house. Use a small scrap of wood and a hammer to gently tap out the 3/4″ side piece/spacer from between the plywood divider and the pine side member. Repeat the process by replacing the spacer against the other side by the divider you’ve just installed. Slip another divider between the front and back pieces (tight against the spacer) and nail it in place as you did the first. Repeat the process by removing/replacing the spacer and installing the plywood dividers until all six are in place, each with a 3/4″ space between them.

Since the nails used to fasten these dividers are such a noticeable part of the front Of the house, it’s a good idea to drive them in a straight and regular pattern. Use a square to help you draw faint pencil lines on the front of the house to guide you if necessary. Finish up by installing the second side member (used previously as the spacer) and the roof.

The house featured here has been stained a medium brown color and finished with Sikkens Cetol #1, although a number of other durable products could be used instead. Exterior grade house paint will work well for people who aren’t interested in allowing the natural appearance of the wood to show through in the finished house. Whatever product you choose, it’s wise to finish the house, mounting bracket, and crevice/ledge strips separately in order to protect the wood as completely as possible.

Fig. 3

When you’re ready to install the house, attach the mounting bracket to the back of the house with five #12 x 1 1/2″ screws, countersunk below the surface of the bracket. Since bats prefer warm locations, install the house where it will get as much direct sunshine as possible. A southern or southeastern exposure is very important. Locations 12′ to 16′ off the ground on the side of a building near permanent sources of water seem to work best.

This plan can be originally found at http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/7285/project-plans/outdoor-projects/to-the-bat-cave

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Bat Box


Build Your Own Bat Box – attract bats to your yard

Did you know that one single bat eats between 6,000 and 8,000 insects PER NIGHT?

Did you know that less than 1% of bats carry rabies (far lower than the incidence in racoons)?

Did you know that a female bat (usually) only has one pup per year?

Did you know that store-bought bat boxes are generally NOT very successful.

Why do I bring this up?

Because this seems like a no-brainer for building/buying and installing a bat box near your home.

Think fewer mosquitoes, natural (and nitrogen-full) fertilizer and aid in pollination all without the risk of them multiplying like mice or bringing rabies to your family pet.

How about this – longer evenings spent outside enjoying your yard without spraying down your kids with toxic chemicals.

Why doesn’t everyone have a bat box?

There are several “Bat Conservation approved” bat box plans available online, but I found them to be a bit brief, so I wanted to share the ‘build your own bat boxes’ I created this past week.

DIY Bat box / DIY bat house

  • 3/4″ outdoor plywood
  • 1 1/2″ galvanized screws
  • outdoor caulking
  • wood glue
  • outdoor paint
  • outdoor varnish/polyurethane

Cuts:

  • 18 x 24″ for backing (18 x 26″ would be even better, but 24″ will work)
  • 18 x 12″ for front upper
  • 18 x 6″ for front lower
  • 2 pieces at 18 x 1 1/2″ for sides
  • 16 x 1 1/2″ for inner roof
  • 18 x 3/4″ for protective ledge
  • 18 1/2 by 4″ for roof (cut at a 30 degree angle along one long edge)

Bats need a way to climb up into, and roost, inside your bat box.  The easiest, and most cost effective way I found was to create a ladder along the inside of your box:

Start by setting your table saw blade height to 1/4″ (or less) high and cut notches in your bat box back at every half inch.

This may seem tedious, but you can notch one side, turn the board around and notch the other end without moving your guide rail – so two cuts from each measurement.  To notch my entire back it took 15 minutes, and that’s with taking photos as well.

Alternatively, you could cut and staple plastic mesh to your back board, but I have read where the staples will rust and the plastic will bow over time, making your house less appealing to bats.

Next you’ll need to attach your sides;  I made mistakes on both bat boxes that I built in that I didn’t leave enough space for my outer roof and mounting holes on the first one.  I’ll still be able to hang it with L-brackets, but leaving space above the side beams would have been better.

Glue your side pieces to your backing leaving a 4 – 5″ gap from the bottom and a 3 – 4″ gap from the top (adjust accordingly to fit).  Screw into place, from the back,  with your 1 1/2″ galvanized screws.

Next glue down your inner roof piece between the sides and screw into place (from the back).

Your box should look approximately like this:

From what I’ve read, bats require a lot of heat – and it was recommended that bat boxes be sealed with caulking to keep the heat in and the weather out.  I found the caulking to have a really strong smell and I questioned whether they’d roost here or not, but after checking several sites, they all say the same thing – seal it tightly.

Before attaching your top plates, run another strip of caulking along the side and inner roof pieces and press tightly.  Screw into place using 1 1/2″ galvanized screws while the caulking is still wet (it will give it a better seal).

Line your front upper along the inner roof piece and screw down from the front.

Before attaching your front lower piece, leave an opening between the boards that is 1/4″ to 1/2″ for ventilation.

This will give you a small overhang at the bottom of your box.  Here you’ll attach your protective ledge.  It’s just a little extra protection from predators.

You can nail or screw this into place.  Don’t worry about caulking this section.

Finally, line up your outer roof piece so that the 30 degree angle is flush with your backing and there is an overhang on the front of your box (mistake number two – my roof wasn’t wide enough so I had to add another row of caulking to seal the weather out).

I purchased a new-to-me scroll saw earlier this week and was itching to try it out and what better beginner project than a simple bat.

If I were to make a third bat box, I’d correct my other two mistakes AND paint the entire box before adhering the decorative batn- but I’m a “learned the hard way” kind of gal, so painting around the bat was the route I was destined to take.

You could leave your bat box plain – with just an outdoor sealer/varnish to protect it – but it is highly recommended that you paint your box to help attract sunlight and therefore heat.

For my area, black was the recommended colour.  One coat of outdoor paint and a coat of triple-thick outdoor varnish and my build your own bat box / DIY bat box is done!

Your bat box will need to be between 15 and 20 feet off of the ground in a cleared area – they need to have a clear path to take off from and to land, so a tree’d space won’t find much success.

Your bat box will need about 7 hours of morning sun in order for them to want to move in.  They are mammals and like to be toasty warm after a long night’s work (don’t we all?).

Mother bats tend to look for roosts in April (depending on your location) so putting up your bat box in the Fall will give you a better chance of it being used come Spring.

My thoughts are 1.  who wants to be out in freezing cold April to put one of these suckers up and 2.  putting it up now will give it time to weather and get rid of the strong scents of caulking and paint – but that’s just my two cents.

 

The original plan can be found at https://100things2do.ca/build-bat-box-attract-bats-yard/

 
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Howell Bar Cabinet

Like to entertain? This is a great bar cabinet for those get-togethers with friends! The DIY plans to build a Howell bar cabinet feature wine storage behind two doors with false drawer fronts, and a long pull-out cabinet in the center. There is plenty of storage for entertaining accessories and spirits in this cabinet!


MATERIALS:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 5/8″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 18″ ball-bearing drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 15 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

LUMBER:

  •  1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′x4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′x4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 3 sheets of 4′x8′ 3/4″ plywood
  • 8 – 3/4″ square dowels at 4′ or 16 – 3/4″ square dowels at 3′

CUT LIST:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/4″ x 42-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/4″ x 40-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/4″ x 40-1/2″ – Kick Plates
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 38-1/4″ x 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 38-1/4″ – Dividers
  • 16 – 3/4″ square dowels at 18-3/4″ – Wine Bottle Stops
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 18-3/4″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 40″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 43″ – Top Front Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 37-1/2″ – Drawer Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Shelf Bottom
  • 6 – 1×3 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Sides
  • 3 – 1/2″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 37-15/16″ – Door & Drawer Base
  • 15 – 1/4″ plywood at 7-3/8″ x 12-3/4″ – False Drawer Fronts

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Position the bottom 3-1/4″ up from the bottom edge of the sides securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the kick plates and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides under the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front kick plate will be positioned 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides while the back kick plate will be flush with the sides. Add a few 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom into the kick plates.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges, treating the pieces as if they are a left and a right (this way the pocket holes will be hidden in the center drawer area).

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the wine bottle stops and the shelves. Attach two stops the bottom of each outer cubby as shown, locating them 3/4″ back from the front edge of the bottom. Secure the stops in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of the shelves. Attach the remaining stops to the top of the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Position the shelves in the outer side cubbies as shown securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 6:

Cut the piece for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in the side and front edges of the panel as well as one end of the side trim. Attach the side trim to the panel first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Attach the front trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use a router and a decorative bit to cut a fancy edge on the top!

Position the top so that the back edge is flush and the sides and front overhang by 1/2″. Secure the top to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the center drawer. This drawer is similar to a traditional drawer but has three shelf compartments. Drill pocket holes in the narrower edges of each bottom piece. Secure the bottom pieces to the front and back pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Position the side pieces over each bottom piece, securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Mark the position for the drawer slides on the dividers – the drawer will sit 1/8″ above the bottom. Install the cabinet side pieces of the drawer slides on the dividers locating the slides 3/4″ back from the front edge, then install the drawer side pieces of the slides on the sides of the drawer. Test fit the drawer and make any necessary to the slides.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the door/drawer front bases, then cut the pieces for the false drawer fronts. Draw placement lines on the base for the false fronts. The top false front will be located approximately 1/16″ down from the top of the base. The remaining false fronts will be spaced 1/4″ apart. Secure the false fronts using glue and 5/8″ brad nails. drill holes in each false front, all the way through the base, for the cabinet pulls.

Step 9:

Shim the drawer front assembly in the center cubby over the drawer. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides. Drive screws through the holes drilled for the cabinet pulls into the drawer. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front from the inside with countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. Finish drilling the holes through the drawer for the cabinet pulls, then install the pulls.

Step 10:

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the pulls.

Finish as desired.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com

 
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Bar Cabinet

Materials:

  • 1 – 6′ piece of 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ craft board in your desired finish
  • 1 – 8′ piece of 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ craft board in your desired finish
  • 1 – 1×2 piece @ 8′ long
  • 12 – 1×3 pieces @ 8′ long
  • 1 – 1×4 piece @ 6′ long
  • 2 – 1×6 pieces @ 6′ long
  • 2 – 2×2 pieces @ 8′ long
  • 1 – 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – scrap of 1/4″ plywood at least 15 1/2″ x 17 1/4″
  • 1 – set of euro inset hinges
  • 1 – set of 14″ bottom mount drawer slides
  • 1 – piece of 1/4″ thick glass cut to 15 1/4″ x 15 1/4″
  • 1 1/4″ screws
  • 2″ screws
  • 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 5/8″ Finishing nails
  • 1 1/4″ Finishing nails
  • 2″ finishing nails

 

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1 1/2″ Project Board pieces @ 18 1/4″ – Back side of door
  • 2 – 1 1/2″ Project Board pieces @ 15 1/4″ – Back top and bottom of door
  • 4 – 2 1/2″ Project Board Pieces @ 18 1/4″ (Measured at the long side of your mitered cut.  Sides should be mitered at a 45 degree angle.)- Door Sides
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 18 1/2″ – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 15″ – Drawer Slide Mount
  • 26 – 1×3 @ 25″ – Plank Casing
  • 6 – 1×3 @ 35″ – Plank Top
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 17 1/4″ – Drawer Front/Back
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 14″ – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1×6 @ 18 1/4″ – Drawer Front
  • 6 – 1×6 @ 16 1/2″ (ripped to 4 1/2″ wide. From now on will be mentioned as 1x5s) – Wine Dividers
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 35″ – Front and Back Top/Bottom
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 15″ – Side Top/Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 @ 25″ – Center Divider
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 31″ – Legs
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 17 1/4″ x 15 1/2″ – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 35″ x 15″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 25 3/4″ x 15″ – Center Divider
  • 3 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 16 1/2″ x 15″ – Wine Shelves

Step 1:

Cut Plywood as shown above

Step 2:

To create your side, first attach your 1×3 plank boards together to create a flat panel.  (Make sure to use wood glue!)  In making this panel, it helps to ensure that all of the “bend” is eliminated from your board to have a straight side.  Once that has been completed, Kreg Jig your panel to the top and bottom 1x2s flush to the back, leaving a 3/4″ gap on the front.  (One trick to doing this is to put a scrap 1x board or 3/4″ thick piece of plywood underneath your 1×3 planks when Kreg Jigging it into the 2×2.  That should remove the guesswork and give you the perfect 3/4″ overhang when you’re finished screwing the panel together.)  (PS – is Kreg Jigging a word?  If not, it totally should be.)

Step 3:

Attach your legs either by using your Kreg Jig or countersinking 3″ screws through the sides into the top/bottom 2x2s that are attached to your panel.  The top of the 2×2 should be flush with the top of your panel.  Repeat steps 2-3 to create your other side.

Step 4:

Just like you created your sides in step 2, Kreg Jig your 1×3 planks together for the back and then attach them to your 2×2 top and bottom back.  Once your panel has been assembled, attach it to the back legs of each of your sides.

Step 5:

Attach your 2×2 front top/bottom boards using your Kreg Jig or by countersinking them into the side 2x2s using 3″ screws and wood glue.  The top 2×2 should be flush with the top of the cabinet and the bottom piece should leave a 3″ gap between the 2×2 and the ground.  It should be even with the surrounding bottom 2x2s.

Step 6:

Attach your plywood bottom into the casing using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.  The top of the plywood should be flush with the top of the front 2×2.  Also, make sure that your bottom is level before putting in the final screws!

Step 7:

Slide your 2×2 center divider into place using the dimensions shown above.  Secure using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 8:

Slide your plywood center divider into place in between the back and your 2×2 center divider.  When positioning, make sure that the right side (what will be your wine holder side) of the plywood is flush with the outside of the 2×2.  You will have a 3/4″ gap on the left side of the plywood between that and the outside edge of your 2×2.  The measurements shown above represent the plywood’s location in relation to the sides of the casing.

Step 9:

There are a few options for installing the wine holder side of the bar cabinet (Each of the three gaps for the wine bottles should be 4 1/2″ wide):

  1. If you have a right angle drill that can fit into small spaces, you can use your Kreg Jig and attach your 1×5 wine dividers first to the bottom of the cabinet.  Once they’re in place, attach the plywood top of the wine divider to top of the 1x5s and secure in place with your right angle drill from the inside using your Kreg Jig.
  2. If you don’t have a right angle drill, you can attach the 1x5s to the base as described in option 1, but then attach the plywood top by countersinking it from the top into the dividers  using 1 1/4″ screws.
  3. Another option is to attach the 1x5s to the plywood first, and then slide the entire piece into the console and secure using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 10:

Repeat step 9 twice more to get the full wine rack.

Step 11:

For the top, first attach all of your 1x3s planks together like you did for the sides.  To make this step easier, place the top plank section on the ground (top facing downward) and lay the console on top of it fitting the planks into the top opening.  This way, when you screw it together using your Kreg Jig, you know that your top is even and level.

Step 12:

Attach your drawer divider as shown above using your Kreg Jig.  Make sure that you leave  5 3/4″ above your 1×2 to allow for your drawer.

Step 13:

Since the plywood center divider isn’t flush with the left outside edge of the bar, we need to install a “drawer slide support” to build this out as a platform for your drawer slide.  Your 1×2 should fit directly above your drawer divider.  Attach with 1 1/4″ screws and wood glue.

Step 14:

Assemble the four sides of your drawer first as shown above with your Kreg Jig.  Once you have your boards assembled, add the plywood bottom using finishing nails and wood glue.  (Since you are using bottom mount drawer slides, that will further secure the bottom of the drawer.)  Add your drawer slides as per the manufacturer’s instructions, leaving a 3/4″ gap between the front of the drawer and the end of your console to allow for the drawer front to fit into place.

Step 15:

Once your drawer slides are installed and the inside of your drawer is inserted into the drawer slot, place your drawer front over the opening leaving a 1/8″ gap on all sides.  When you are satisfied with its placement, use finishing nails to secure the front to the inside of the drawer.  (This step is even easier if you turn the console onto its back.)

Step 16:

Glue your door sides together as shown above, making sure that your corners have been mitered at a 45 degree angle.

Step 17:

On top of your door sides, secure the back sides of the door to the front using 5/8″ finishing nails and wood glue.  At this step, you may want to paint/stain your door before you add the glass.

Step 18:

Glue your glass or plexiglass into the inset using liquid nails or another strong adhesive.  You can also secure from the back using mirror clips for additional hold.

Step 19:

Install the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions on your hinges.  This is an inset door and there should be 1/8″ available on each side once installed to allow for easy opening (and closing!).

The original plan can be found at http://www.oldpaintdesign.com

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