Woodworking Plans – Page 4 – Woodworkers Resource

Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

2 Untreated Dog eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue

Since this is fencing, the lumber is pretty rough. Pick through the stack to find boards that are straight and as smooth as possible. Avoid boards that have loose knots, are warped, splitting, etc. You can use Cedar planking which has been planed and sanded on one side, it’s quite a bit more expensive and since only one side is sanded, it made more sense to me to save the extra money and just use the fencing.

These are the pieces that you will need for assembly. Dimensions and number of slats will change if the overall size of the caddy is modified.

Measure the tub that the caddy is for and determine the overall width that you want. The tub that I made my caddy for has a strong oval shape, so I needed one side to be 2 inches longer than the other side.

Chop the Cedar pickets to your desired length (tub width), then rip the pickets to 3 1/4 inches (or desired depth of the caddy). This is removing quite a bit of material, so this is an opportunity to get rid of any parts of the wood that are less desirable. Also, make sure to cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges. Some of this excess wood will be used for the ends, so save it for later.

Print and cut out the handles template then transfer the shape to the ends of the pickets. Cut out the handles using a jigsaw or band saw. If one side is longer than the other (like mine) put the difference in the arms, so that the body remains even. Similar to building a drawer, cut a dado a half inch from the bottom on both sides. The dado needs to be 3/8 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep.

Chop the lattice pieces to your desired width, mine are 7 and 1/2 inches, for an overall caddy width of 8 inches. I used 10 pieces spaced 3/4 of an inch apart (this worked out nicely as I was able to use 3/4 MDF scraps for spacers).

Dry fit both ends of each lattice into the dado. Sand the edges of any that don’t fit until all of the pieces will fit into the dado. Note: assembly is easier if all the pieces fit snugly so don’t over-sand.

Use the table saw with the blade set to a 30 degree angle to bevel one edge of two lattice slats. These will be the outside ends of the caddy, the bevel fills the end of the dado flush and creates a more finished look than if the edges were left square. Next cut the end pieces from the scraps you saved earlier. These go on top of the outside slats. Mine are 7 inches wide by 2 1/2 inches tall, but adjust to your sizing.

Now sand, sand, sand! Because the cedar is so rough I started with 36 grit paper on the circular sander. This took off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then I just graduated up through the grits until it was nice and smooth. (Tip: I did the major sanding on the lattice strips before I cut them as they are harder to sand when they are smaller strips. Then just touched them where needed after they were cut.) Take your time and get everything nice and smooth– Nobody wants to get a sliver in the bathtub!

To assemble, put wood glue one end of each slat and insert into the dado groove on one side. Don’t worry about spacing too much at this point, just get them in. Once all of the slats are in, turn the piece onto it’s side so that the slats are pointing up. Apply glue to the free side of each slat and slide the other caddy side down onto the slats so that the slats go into the dado. This can be a bit tricky and it helps to have a second pair of hands. Once the slats are in both dados, adjust the slats so that they are evenly spaced and the two beveled edges on the ends line up smoothly with the outside edge. Place one or two clamps in the middle to hold it all in place. Put glue on the sides of the two end pieces and then slide them down onto the beveled edge of the outside slats. Check for evenness and square, then clamp the ends together. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth and let the caddy dry according to glue directions.

Remove the clamps and lightly sand any clamp marks or glue residue and your caddy is ready to go! No need to seal cedar as the natural oils act as preservatives, making the wood extremely long lasting and resistant to moisture.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

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Bathroom Decor

Gridview

Bathroom Niche Cabinet

Materials List:

(2) 1×4 x 96″ oak
(1) 1×2 x 24″ oak
(1) 1/4″ x 24″ x 48″ oak plywood
(1) 3/16″ x 2″ x 72″ mullion
(1) 11/16″ x 3-1/4″ x 36″ crown molding
(1) 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 36″ cove molding
(12) shelf brackets

Click to enlargen

Step 1: Plan where to put your cabinet

The cabinet fits between studs inside the wall, so it’ll work in even the tiniest bathroom. Unlike a wall-hung shelf, the cabinet lets you gain storage space without sacrificing elbow room.

We installed our cabinet next to the shower. This cabinet often fits nicely behind the bathroom door if there’s no other available space. But in most cases, it won’t work over the toilet because there’s a vent pipe in the wall. Also avoid exterior walls because they’re filled with insulation. When choosing a location, check both sides of the wall for obstructions. A light switch or shower head on the other side of the wall means the wall contains electrical cable or plumbing pipes. Some electronic stud finders can identify metal pipes and electrical cable in walls (but they’re not 100 percent reliable). You could also choose a different room. The cabinet can store—or display—anything you like in the hallway, bedrooms or family room.

Step 2: Cut, rout and drill the parts

Get started by cutting all the pieces to size (refer to Figure A). Then run a router with a Roman ogee bit along the bottom front and both bottom sides of the sill nose. Use a round-over bit to rout the top and bottom front of the shelves.

Apply wood glue along the front edge of the sill, center the sill nose over it, then clamp the pieces together until the glue dries. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any glue that oozes out. If the sill and sill nose surfaces aren’t flush, sand the pieces flat with 80-grit sandpaper.

Lay out the sides for the shelf bracket holes, following Figure A. Drill the holes 3/4 in. from the edges and spaced 1 in. apart. Use a 1/4-in. drill bit (or whatever bit size is required for your brackets). You only need to drill the holes 3/8 in. deep (wrap tape 3/8 in. from the end of the drill bit to mark the depth), although it’s OK to drill all the way through the sides since the other side will be hidden inside the wall.

After drilling the holes, sand off the pencil lines remaining on the sides with 120-grit sandpaper.

Step 3: Assemble the cabinet

Tack the cabinet box together quickly with a brad nailer. Then add screws for rock-solid corners. Glue the sill nose to the sill before assembling the cabinet.

Add casing to the box using as few nails as possible. Three nails will hold the casing tight while the glue dries.

Cut the crown molding using a simple homemade jig. The jig holds the crown upside down as you make the cuts.

Glue the crown corners together without nails or clamps. Just hold each return tightly in place for about 60 seconds. Set the completed crown aside for 20 minutes, then attach it to the cabinet.

Use wood glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails to assemble the cabinet frame (Photo 1), following Figure A. Then drill two 1/8-in. pilot holes in each corner and drive 1-1/2- in. screws to hold the corners together. Run a thin bead of glue along the back of the entire frame, then set the back panel over it. Use the back panel to square the frame, then tack the panel into place with 5/8-in. brad nails.

Lay the cabinet on its back and fasten the casing (Photo 2). Three 5/8-in. nails will hold the casing until the glue dries. Precision cuts are required for the molding corners to fit tightly. Measure along the bottom edge of the molding when you make the cuts (the top measurements will vary depending on the type of molding).

To get accurate cuts, build a simple jig to hold the molding in place during cuts. Screw or nail wood scraps together at a 90-degree angle. Set the crown molding upside down in the jig so the flat part on the back (the part that sits against the cabinet after installation) is flush against the vertical part of the jig. Fasten a stop block to the horizontal part of the jig along the top of the molding. Screw or hot-glue the jig to the fence on your miter saw so it won’t move.

Set the crown molding upside down in the jig and cut it (Photo 3). If the molding moves in the jig even a tiny bit during the cut, recut the molding or the corners won’t fit tightly together. To cut the molding returns (sides), use the jig to make the angle cuts, then cut the 90-degree angles.

Nailing the mitered corners together won’t work—the molding will crack or move as you nail it. Instead, simply glue the corners (Photo 4). Cut the cove molding for the bottom of the cabinet in the miter saw (without using the jig). Glue the cove molding pieces together. Glue and tack the assembled crown and cove moldings to the cabinet with 5/8-in. brad nails.

Step 4: Finish and mount cabinet

Sand the entire cabinet with 120-grit sandpaper and wipe away the dust with a clean cloth. Then brush on a finish. We used Minwax Golden Oak stain followed by two coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane.

Then get the wall ready. Using a drywall saw, cut a small inspection hole in the wall where the cabinet will go. Shine a light in the opening and use a small mirror to look for obstructions in the wall. If you find electrical cable or plumbing pipe, patch the hole and move over a stud space.

Make an outline on the wall (between two studs) 1/4 in. larger than the cabinet back (so it’ll fit easily) and cut out the drywall with a drywall saw. Be careful not to cut into the drywall on the other side of the wall. Finally, put the cabinet into the wall, level it, then nail through the stiles into the studs with 2-1/2-in. finish nails.

The original plan can be found at https://www.familyhandyman.com

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Wall Cabinet

The original plan can be found at https://woodworking.formeremortals.net

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Wall Cabinet

Materials:

For the cabinet

(2) Sides – 1″ x 7 1/2″ x 72″
(1) Bottom shelf – 1″ x 7 1/2″ x 23 1/2″
(3) Wide shelves – 1″ x 7 1/8″ x 23 1/2″
(1) Narrow shelf – 1″ x 6 1/8″ x 23 1/2″
(1) Central drawer divider – 1″ x 4″ x 7 1/8″
(7) Back slats – 3/8″ x 3 1/2″ x 41 3/8″
(1) Crown molding – 9/16″ x 3 1/8″ x 60″
(1) Crown filler piece – 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 60″
(1) Cap – 3/4″ x 9 7/8″ x 30 1/4″

For the drawers

(2) Drawer fronts – 3/4″ x 3 15/16″ x 11 1/8″
(2) Drawer backs – 1/2″ x 3 15/16″ x 11 1/8″
(4) Drawer sides – 1/2″ x 3 15/16″ x 6 1/2″
(2) Drawer bottoms – 1/4″ x 6 1/4″ x 10 5/8″

For the doors

(4) Stiles – 1″ x 2″ x 18″
(2) Top rails – 1″ x 2″ x 8 3/4″
(2) Bottom rails – 1″ x 2 1/2″ x 8 3/4″
(2) Panels – 1/4″ x 8 5/8″ x 14 1/2″

Click to Enlarge

Getting Started:

Begin by selecting material for the two sides and five shelves. Cut these parts to rough size, leaving two or three inches of extra length before dressing them to finished thickness. Joint one edge and rip the sides and the bottom shelf to 7 1/2″ wide. The wide shelves need to be 7 1/8″ wide and the narrow shelf 6 1/8″. Crosscut the two sides to 72″ long, but don’t make the bottom ends quite square. Instead, angle these back 1º from square, so the front edge of each side is slightly longer than the back. This tilts the completed cabinet backward slightly, making it more stable. When the cabinet’s done you’ll also anchor it to the wall as another safety measure.

Lay out the sides:

Next, place the sides on your bench, inside face up, and prepare to mark shelf locations. Before you begin, check that both sides are exactly the same length and that you have the front edge of each side clearly identified. Remember, the front is the longer edge.

Start at the top and measure down 2 1/2″. This marks the bottom edge of the top shelf, allowing 2 1/4″ for crown moulding with 1/4″ of the shelf revealed below it. Scribe a line across both sides with a square, then mark an X on the upward side of this line to show where the shelf will land.

Next, measure 11 1/2″ down from the top. This marks the spot for the bottom edge of the narrow shelf. Again, mark another X on the upward side of this line, also making note that the narrow shelf is set back one inch from the front edges of the sides to make room for the doors.

It’s time for another mark now, this time 21 1/2″ down from the top. Scribe a line across the sides and draw an X above it. This is where one of the wide shelves will go; this shelf’s top edge defines the bottom extent of the door opening.

Mark a spot 37″ down from the top, for the location of another wide shelf piece, then mark another line 42″ down. This last mark locates the bottom edge of the bottom shelf, leaving 30″ to the bottom of the sides. This dimension allows the cabinet to straddle most toilets, but if any adjustments need to be made to accommodate an unusual toilet height, make the changes now. Tweak the distance between the doors and the drawers, or upper and lower middle shelves as needed.

With your shelf lines drawn, rout a 3/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet along the back inside edges of both sides. Rout from the top down to the middle of the bottom shelf position, the place where the back slats stop.

This project is held together with #20 biscuits, so mark their locations and cut slots for them. To boost accuracy, avoid measuring and marking individual slot locations. Instead, hold the shelf in place against the sides and make one continuous pencil mark across both side pieces. Position biscuit slots about 1 1/2″ in from both front and back edges. When you’ve finished all the pencil work, cut the biscuit slots.

Lay both sides on your workbench again and insert biscuits into the slots without glue. It’s not unusual for complex biscuit-joined assemblies such as this project to run into snags as parts come together, and you don’t want that to happen with glue complicating the issue. Fit shelves onto the biscuits and dry-assemble the entire framework with the help of some clamps. Mark the shelf locations on back edges to avoid confusion during final assembly with glue. Check that the corners are square and make sure all pieces are easily aligned. This is also a good opportunity to lay out and cut the central drawer divider. Mark this on the bottom and lower middle shelf. Measure the distance between the two shelves and cut this piece with the grain running the same way as that on the sides. Take apart the framework and sand all the interior surfaces with a 120-grit abrasive in preparation for final glue-up.

Bringing the parts together:

This is the step in which things have to go smoothly, or there’s a big mess to deal with. Having just dry-fitted and labelled all the parts, make sure you have the necessary clamps on hand, pre-adjusted. When everything you need is within reach, apply glue to all the slots in one side and the corresponding slots in the shelf ends. Now butter up enough biscuits to fill these slots and assemble this part of the framework. A clean flux brush is ideal for spreading glue here.

Next, apply glue to the slots in the other side and the slots in the other ends of the shelves. Butter up more biscuits to fill these slots, nestle the second side in place, and then clamp everything together while making sure that the back edges of the shelves line up correctly with the sides. Don’t worry about alignment of the front shelf edges for now, since everything can be made flush here after the glue dries. Check and adjust the framework for square, then install the central drawer divider with glue and a few small finishing nails.

Doors and Drawers:

As with the sides, I like to use thicker material for doorframes too. It stays flatter than 3/4″ stock, and it looks better too. With the framework assembled, you can now measure accurately for the doors. The overall door opening should be 18″ x 23 1/2″, so you need to build a pair of doors measuring 11 3/4″ wide x 18″ high. You’ll need to plane these later for an optimal fit. Notice that the top rail and the side stiles are two inches wide, while the bottom rail is 2 1/2″ wide. A little extra wood along the lower part of each door gives more traditional proportions.

The doors I designed include simple 1/4″-thick flat panels cut from solid stock and bookmatched so they look great. Being split from the same piece of wood, each side of the grain pattern is a mirror image. You could use a plywood panel or a raised panel, depending on your taste and patience.

Prepare wood for door stiles and rails, including a 1/4″-wide x 1/2″-deep dado along all the inside edges of rails and stiles. Since this groove is made to accept the door panels, you may need to tweak the dado width depending on the stock you’re using. So-called 1/4″ plywood is often substantially thinner than 1/4″, so check before you rout.

The plans show how the rails are joined to the stiles with 1/4″ x 1/2″ stub tenons. Prepare these now and dry-fit the door frames together. Check for square and overall size, and then measure for the door panels. The door-panel height can be fairly tight at the top and bottom, but you should leave 1/8″ of space for seasonal movement along each side of the solid panels. Plywood panels can fit tight all around because they’re immune to moderate humidity changes.

Sand the panels and the inside edges of the frames with 120-grit sandpaper, then dry-fit the door parts to make sure they come together properly. This is a great time to prefinish the panels so they don’t show any unfinished areas if dry weather causes them to shrink. When you’re ready for final door assembly, apply glue to the stub tenons and also to the corresponding grooves in the stiles. Whatever you do, work neatly. You must avoid getting glue on the panels since it could interfere with seasonal movement and cause cracking. Clamp each door immediately after assembly and check to make sure that the corners are square and flat.

Drawer Construction:

The drawers are simple boxes with 3/4″-thick fronts and 1/2″-thick sides and backs. The bottoms can be 1/4″-thick pine or hardboard. I like to use one board for both drawer fronts so the grain pattern is continuous across them. Cut the drawer fronts, sides and back 1/16″ less in height than the opening so the drawers will slide smoothly. Label all parts, then plow a 1/4″ x 1/4″ dado to accept the drawer bottom. Corner joinery is simple: a 1/2″ x 1/2″ rabbet on both ends of the drawer fronts and a 1/4″ x 1/2″ rabbet on both ends of the drawer backs. Cut the drawer bottoms and dry-fit all drawer parts to highlight any areas that need adjustment. Check overall drawer width, then glue and clamp the parts together. A belt sander is an excellent tool for adjusting final drawer size for a smooth-sliding fit within the openings.

Fitting the doors:

The easiest way to fit the doors is to lay the cabinet on its back, and then place the doors in position. The interior shelves will hold them up. You’ll almost certainly need to make adjustments, and a sharp hand plane is the tool of choice for this job. Aim for a 1/16″ gap all around, with a slight bevel along the hinge side, so the face of each door is slightly wider than the back. This allows the doors to close without binding within the sides. Once your planing work is done, install hinges and hang the doors. I chose simple, mortise-free hinges: they don’t show much on the finished project, but the ball tips do add a bit of class to the overall impression of the project.

Once the doors are hung, final fitting is done with a sharp block plane to create an even gap around the doors, and to make sure the two doors don’t collide with each other in the centre. Take the doors off now for final sanding.

I bought some V-groove, knotty pine paneling for the back slats, the kind that comes shrink-wrapped at building-supply outlets everywhere. Select the best pieces, then sand and finish them before nailing them in place. You’ll need to take off the tongue on one back slat so it fits properly in the 3/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet you routed earlier in the sides.

Crown molding and cap:

It takes about five feet of crown moulding to cover the top of the project, and I installed it a little differently than the usual method. Start by sanding the crown by hand with 180-grit paper to get rid of the mill glaze and planer marks, then cut a triangular filler piece for behind the crown. This gives more support than with most crown installations. Cut, glue and nail the filler in place, flush with the tops of the sides, and then prepare the crown. As with the drawer fronts, cut the crown from a continuous piece of wood so grain patterns wrap around the project. You’ll get the best results if you leave the side pieces of crown longer than needed for now, then get the mitre joints right before trimming to final length at the back ends. This approach allows multiple attempts to get the all-important mitres spot-on. A sharp block plane is the ideal tool for tweaking these prominent joints.

The cap starts with a 3/4″-thick piece of pine that needs 1/2″-deep rabbets milled on all four sides. The back rabbet is 1/2″ x 3/8″ to accept the back slats; side rabbets are 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ (to extend over the crown moulding, triangular fillers and sides); and the front rabbet is 1/2″ x 2 3/8″ (to fit over the crown and the filler). The 1/4″ of cap that rises above the rabbets is best rounded over for good looks. Apply some glue, then nail the cap down into the sides.

Drill and install your drawer and door hardware, then give everything a final sanding before cleaning up the shop and getting out the finishing supplies.

Finishing up:

I chose to stain this cabinet with the old classic, Minwax Puritan Pine, followed by one coat of Minwax Wipe-On Poly. Let this dry overnight, then lightly sand the surface with 240-grit paper and apply a 50/50 blend of Wipe-On Poly and gloss polyurethane. This creates an attractive, low-lustre finish, while offering plenty of moisture protection that will stand up well in the bathroom.

The original plan can be found at http://canadianhomeworkshop.com

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Wall Cabinet

Materials:

(2)Sides – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 7 1/2″ x 27 3/4
(2)Top/bottom – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 8″ x 24″
(1)Shelf – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 6 1/4″ x 21 5/8″
(1)Back – laminated pine – 1/4″ x 22 1/8″ x 27 3/4″
(2)Mounting strips – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 2″ x 21 5/8″
(4)Door stiles – laminated pine – 11/16″ x 1 3/4″ x 27 3/4″
(4)Door rails – 11/16″ x 1 3/4″ x 7 1/4″
(8)Door splines – laminated pine – 1/4″ x 1 11/16″ x 1″
(2)Door panels – acrylic/glass – 1/4″ x 7 3/4″ x 24 3/4″
(2)Knobs
(2)European cup hinges

Click to Enlargen

Frame:

This cupboard is built with simple butt joints. Begin with the sides of the cupboard and cut them to length. Factory-laminated pine is often slightly thinner than standard 3/4″-thick sheets, and the measurements in the materials list assume 11/16″-thick stock. If you’re working with full 3/4″-thick wood, the final cabinet dimensions will come out slightly different than mine.

Cut the sides to size, then prepare 1/4″ x 1/4″ rabbets along their rear to accept the 1/4″-thick plywood back panel. Next, cut the shelf and the two mounting strips to width, and then trim all three parts to exactly the same lengths as each other. Sand these parts now, first using a 120-grit abrasive, then 180-grit. Join the sides to the ends of these parts using wood screws. If you decide to cover the screw heads with wooden plugs for best appearance, you’ll need to prepare counterbored holes to accept the specific plugs you’re using. See “Hiding Screw Heads” on page 58 for details.

After you cut the top and bottom pieces to size, you should add a bit of visual interest. I used a 1/2″-radius quarter-round router bit to mill the front and side edges of these pieces. Other decorative profiles work well too. After routing, attach the top and bottom pieces to the sides, creating a rectangular assembly. I used glue and #8 x 1 1/2″-long wood screws driven from the top and bottom, covered, once again, with tapered wooden plugs.

Back and Front

Cut the back panel so that it has a snug fit within the rabbets, but don’t attach it just yet. Screw the two mounting strips, which are the width of the cupboard opening, into place. These pieces will be used for fastening the cupboard to your wall. Next, it’s time to make the doors. The design I chose is simple enough for novice woodworkers. Start by cutting the rails and stiles to size, and then set your tablesaw to cut 1/2″-deep x 1/4″-wide panel grooves in the middle of the inside edges of all these parts. For the rails, you’ll also need to extend these grooves around the ends, creating a place for the door splines to interlock. The plans show how these splines are separate, free-floating pieces of wood that fit into the panel grooves in the stiles and the end grooves that you just cut in the rails. Prepare at least eight splines now, with grain running along their 1″ length.

When you are happy with the fit of stiles, rails and splines brought together without glue, measure the dimensions needed for the acrylic door panels. I had mine cut to size at a glass shop. I sanded both surfaces of each panel evenly with 100-grit sandpaper on a random-orbit sander after peeling off the protective plastic. This process creates a frosted look that obscures your household medicines, toothbrushes and hair combs stylishly.

Check the fit of both door assemblies with the panels in place, but don’t add glue yet. The door stiles and rails need to be painted before assembly, including the panel grooves. Unfinished wood in the grooves may remain visible around the translucent panels otherwise.

Paint and Hang:

Go over the project again with 180-grit sandpaper in hand, just to make sure all is smooth. I used a grey primer on the wood after final sanding, so that the semi-gloss black latex paint would cover more easily. Paint the inside of the cupboard and the back panel before attaching the panel with glue and pin nails. Door stiles and rails get painted now too, but mask the areas where the splines will go. These need to remain bare for the glue to grip. After all the paint is thoroughly dry and the doors assembled, protect the project with a clear semi-gloss urethane topcoat for a richer finish.

The doors are hung with European cup hinges, inset and flush to the cupboard sides. Decorative knobs finish off the project. When hanging your cupboard, be sure to find at least one stud for one of the screws driven through each of the mounting strips, with thread-in wall anchors for the other screws. I prefer metal drywall anchors, as they are self-tapping and have greater strength than plastic types. Once the cupboard is up, you can put your toiletries away and admire how easy it was to de-clutter your bathroom.

This plan can be found at http://canadianhomeworkshop.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

Pre-Primed PureBond Plywood
- Qty 2 – 3/4” x 2’ x 8’
- Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 4’
- Qty 1 – 1/4” x 2’ x 2’
Pre-Finished PureBond Plywood
- Qty 1 – 1/2” x 2’ x 8’
- Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 8’
- Qty 1 – 3/4” x 2’ x 4’
Qty 2 – 2 x 2 x 8’ Poplar
Qty 1 – 1 x 2 x 8’ Poplar
Qty 2 – 1 x 3 x 6’ Poplar
Qty 2 – 1 x 8 x 6’ Poplar
8’ – 3-1/4” Baseboard Trim
8’ – 1” Base Cap Molding
Qty 8 – Liberty 20 in. Soft Close Full Extension Drawer Slide (1-Pair)
Qty 2 – Liberty 90-Degree Surface Mount Hidden Spring Hinge (1-Pair)
Qty 10 – Liberty 3” Glass Pulls
Qty 2 – Liberty Glass Knob
2-1/2″ Kreg Pocket Screws (Coarse)
1-1/4″ Kreg Pocket Screws (Coarse)
1-1/4″ Brad Nails
1-1/4″ Wood Screws
Wood Glue

Make sure to note where your plumbing is located. If it comes out of the floor like mine did you will have to modify the depth of you bottom drawers so the plumbing can be run behind one or both.

When it comes to installing your vanity every situation will be different but the vanity should be leveled from front to back and side to side. Shim as required and then secure the back of the vanity into the wall studs with appropriately sized screws. Once that is done the top and sink can be installed. Then the plumbing and faucet can be finished.

The original plan can be found at https://rogueengineer.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Supplies:

(1) 1x2x6
(1) 1x3x8
(1) 5/4x2x6
(2) 5/4x3x8
Molding 8′
1/2” pin nails
1/4” plywood 24”x24”
1/2” plywood 24”x24” (optional)
3/4” plywood 24”x48”
1-1/4” wood screws
1-1/4″ pocket screws
1-1/2″ pocket screws
(2) Cabinet hinges
Elmer’s Wood Glue Max
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain – Dark Walnut
Semi-Gloss Polyurethane

Step 1:

Cut the Legs. Cut 4 pieces of 5/4×3 to 27-1/4″. On one end, measure up 2″ and in 2″. Connect the marks with a line. Cut the angle using a circular saw and crosscut jig. Repeat for the other legs.

Step 2:

Cut the Side Rails. Cut 4 pieces of 5/4×3 to 10-3/4″ and drill pocket holes in each end.

Step 3:

Cut the Bottom Side Rails. Cut 2 pieces of 5/4×2 to 10-3/4″ and drill a pocket hole in each end.

Step 4:

Cut the Side Panels. Cut 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood to 10-3/4″ x 9″ and drill pocket holes around the edges.

Note: I made my panels a little differently. I made 1/4″ book-matched panels and glued those panels to a pieces of 1/2″ plywood for a total of 3/4″.

Step 5:

Assemble the Side. Layout 2 legs (make sure the angles face inward), the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail. The side panel sets in 1/4″ from the face of the legs. To help position the panel, I placed some scrap pieces of 1/4″ MDF on my workbench, then placed the panel on top. My book-matched panels had cathedral grain and I made sure this was pointing towards the top of the vanity. (Cathedral grain refers to the grain pattern of the wood. Think of the grain pattern like a mountain. You want the point of the mountain facing towards the top of the piece and the wide part of the mountain facing towards the bottom of the piece.)

To keep the proper spacing of the bottom rail I cut two pieces of scrap wood to 9″ and placed between the bottom and middle rail.

Once everything is laid out, apply glue to the ends of the rails, clamp the assembly and attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws. Do not attach the panel at this point.

Flip the assembly over and be sure the panel sets in 1/4″ from the face of the legs. Adjust if necessary. Clamp the panel in position, flip the assembly over and attach the panel with 1″ pocket screws. Repeat for the other side.

Step 6:

Cut 5 pieces of 1×2 to 15-1/2″ and drill a pocket hole in each end.

Step 7:

Cut 5 pieces of 1×3 to 15-1/2″ and drill a pocket holes in each end.

Step 8:

Cut the Bottom. Cut 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood to 15-1/2″ x 15″ and drill pocket holes around the edges.

Step 9:

Assemble the Carcass. Apply glue to a 1×3 (from Step 7) and place at the top of the front legs. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Apply glue to a 1×2 (from Step 6) and place 11-3/4″ below the top brace. I cut a few pieces of scrap wood to 11-3/4″ to help position this piece. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Slide the bottom in position. Make sure the bottom is flush with the bottom of the side rails and front rail. Clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Apply glue to a 1×2 (from Step 6), place at the top of the back legs and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

To help install the back slat, I cut a few pieces of scrap to 9″ and placed below the bottom. The back of the slat (from Step 7) is placed flush against the back legs. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Place a 1×2 (from Step 6) on top of the back slat. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

From the bottom, drill a countersink hole and attach using a 1-1/4″ wood screw.

The remaining 3 slats (1×3’s from Step 7) are placed so that the tops of the slats are flush with the top of the bottom rails and spaced 13/16″ apart. To help with the spacing I cut a few pieces of 3/4″ scrap wood and attached pennies to the scrap wood with painter’s tape. The thickness of the wood plus the penny equals about 13/16″.

Attach the slats using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Make the Front Slat Assembly. Apply glue to the edge of a 1×2 (from Step 6) and attach to a 1×2 (from Step 6). To help position the front slat assembly, I cut a few pieces of scrap to 9″ and placed below the bottom. Place at the front slat assembly below the scrap wood and set in 1/4″. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Cut 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 1-1/2″ x 3/4″. Apply glue and place under the front slat assembly. This piece will keep the front assembly from rocking.

Step 10:

Make the Faux Drawers. Cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to 15-1/4″ x 11-1/2″.

Make the “drawer fronts” from 2 pieces of 1/4″ plywood to 15-1/4″ x 5-11/16″.

Note: I used leftover pieces of the book-matched side panels to make my drawer fronts. Apply glue to the drawer fronts, place on the door panel (leaving a gap between the drawer fronts) and clamp until dry.

Wrap the drawer fronts with molding. Miter the molding, apply glue and tack in place with 1/2″ pin nails.

Step 11:

Install the Hinges. Follow the manufacturer instructions for installing the hinges.

Step 12:

Finish the Vanity. Sand, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, apply a tea stain, apply a dark walnut stain and then three coats of polyurethane.

The original plan can be found at https://sawsonskates.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Vanity

Step 1:

Begin by cutting the angle decoration to the bottom of all eight legs pieces, see detail illustration. Next assemble the four legs by drilling for 1-1/4” pockets screws and attaching the leg pieces with pocket screws and wood glue as shown. Make sure the outside-edges, top and bottom are all flush. Pay special attention to the orientation of the angled bottoms and the seam of the corner joint, you will construct 2 pairs of each orientation.

Step 2:

Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws in the side rails and attach to a pair of legs as shown with pocket screws and wood glue. Again, notice the orientation of the corners. This vanity is constructed so that the seam will not be visible from the front. Repeat for the other pair of legs.

Step 3:

Now you will bring the sides together with the front and back rails. Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws and attach as shown.

Step 4:

The strength of this modest vanity will be completed by attaching the side plywood panels. Make sure the panels are flush with the top rails and attach with 3/4” brad nails and wood glue.

Step 5:

Flip the assembly upside down to attach the bottom. The side panels were cut to length so that the bottom rests directly on their bottom edge and, after it is attached, the bottom will sit 1/4” below the edge of the front and back bottom rails. Make sure to set your Kreg jig and drill bit collar for 1/2” thick material. Drill holes and attach with 1” pocket screws and wood glue; making sure the bottom rests snug with the bottom of the side panels.

Step 6:

Next you will attach the upper and lower trim. It is always best to cut the trim material to length as you go. Simply hold up a piece, mark for length and cut. The trim will only wrap around the sides and front and front of the vanity. It will be flush with the back and flush with the top and bottom rails. Attach with 3/4” brad nails and wood glue.

Step 7:

The door assembly is anothe piece that should be cut to fi t. We constructed ours out of 1×8 material. You will want the door to have about a 1/16” all the way around it. The outer two pieces are made at full width. The middle piece will have to ripped down on your table saw, for ours it came out to be 3-1/8” wide. After you have the middle piece ripped down then drill for 1-14” pocket screws and attach with pocket screws and wood glue.

Step 8:

To attach the door we set the hinges 5” from the top and bottom as shown. Attach the hinges to the door first. Then set the door in place with shims to hold it 1/16” off the bottom edge of the door opening and 1/16” in from either side. Mark for the hinge holes and drill pilot holes. Take your time and make sure your hinges are attached as vertically plum as possible.

Step 9:

Finally you are ready to attach the sink basin. Make sure you carefully read installation material that came with your sink first. When you are ready place a bead of silicone adhesive around the top of your vanity base and carefully the sink in place. You may want to have someone help you with this step. The vanity should sit flush on back and about 1/2” all around.

The original plan can be found at https://www.shanty-2-chic.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

(4) 3×3 x 36″ poplar legs
(1) 3/4″ project panel 2′ x 4′
(2) 2×2 x 8 Lumber
(1) 2×6 x 8′ Lumber
(1) 1×8 x 8′ Lumber
(2) 1×4 x 8′ Lumber
(3) 1×2 x 8′ Lumber
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 8′ moulding
2 inset hinges
2 magnetic clasps
4 knobs

Cut List:

(4) 3×3 @ 35″
(2) 2×2 @ 29″
(1) 2×2 @ 27 1/2″
(1) 2×6 @ 29″
(4) 2×2 @ 18″
(1) 1×8 @ 27 1/2″
(1) 1×8 @ 27 1/4″
(2) 3/4″ x 15 1/2″ x 18″ plywood
(2) 1×2 @ 17″
(3) 1×2 @ 29″
(1) 1×2 @ 27 1/2″
(4) 1×2 @ 18″
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 7″ mitered at 45
(4) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 27 1/4″ mitered at 45
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 7 1/4″ mitered at 45

Step 1:

Build the side frame by attaching the 2×2 @ 18″ to the 3x3s with 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue! Top 2×2 is flush with the tops of the 3x3s but set back 1/2″ and the second 2×2 is placed at 15 1/2″ from the bottom of the top 2×2 and set back 1/2″! Whichever way you place your pocket holes will determine the inside of the side!

Step 2:

Attach the 1×2 @ 18″ flush with the 3x3s to the back. Attach with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Make sure pocket holes are facing the “inside”.

Step 3:

Place another 1×2 @ 18″ 4″ up from the bottom of the 3x3s and set back 1/2″ from the front. This will be attached with the same 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue!

Step 4:

Place your plywood piece cut at 18 x 15 1/2″ in the square space created by your frame! This is attached with 3/4″ pocket holes all around the edges and 1 1/4″ screws and glue! It should be flush with your 2x2s!

Step 5:

After building the sides, using the 2×6 @ 29″ and the 2×2@ 29″ attach both sides together! Using 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both and 2 1/2″ screws and glue on both! The 2×6 is going to be flush with the top and what will be the back and the 2×2 is flush with the top and what will be the front!

Step 6:

Attach the 2 – 1×2 @ 17″ to the 3x3s…they are glued and attached using countersunk screws! To do this you will need a 1/2″ countersink drill bit, drill the 1x2s in each place you would like to place a screw and then when you screw the screw in, it will sit down inside a little hole that you can then putty over and no one will ever know it was there! Three screws on each 1×2 should be fine. The 1x2s are set back 1/2″!

Step 7:

Attach the 1×2 @ 27 1/2″ using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. This should be 7 1/4″ down from the bottom of the 2×2 across the top. Attach the 2×2 @ 27 1/2″ flush with the bottom of the 1x2s that run along the 3x3s. Use 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ screws and glue to attach.

Step 8:

Attach the 1×2 @ 29″ below the 2×2 flush to the back of the 3x3s though. Using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach.

Step 9:

Take the 1×8 @ 27 1/2″ and cut your 1/4″ molding leaving a 1/8″ gap around all sides of Mitering the corners at 45 degrees off square, make sure and measure your board here. Glue and staple this to the front of the 1×8… on the back you will drill normal 3/4″ pocket holes and attach using 1 1/4″ screws and glue… if you do not want the bottom drawer to flip down, you can make two of this same size only bring the molding all the way to the top and bottom edges since room has already been left in this bottom space for it to move… if you want the flip down door continue to step 10.

Step 10:

Take the 1×8 @ 27 1/4″ and place 1/4″ molding all the way to the edges of the board, mitered at 45 degrees off square. Make sure and measure your board. This board will be attached with hinges and magnetic claps… later on in the instructions. I sanded and stained it before attaching.

Step 11:

Attach the 2 – 1×2 @ 29″ up four inches from the bottom. Using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. The front 1×2 will be set back 1/2″ and the back 1×2 will be flush with the back.

Step 12:

Attach the 2×2 @ 29″ across the back… you may want to measure your plumbing before placing this board as it can easily be moved up or down right now but not once it’s glued. It is flush with the back. Using 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 13:

The front and back 1x4s @ 31 1/2″ along the bottom where they meet the 3x3s will need to be cut, taking a jigsaw you can quickly make these cuts. The measurements here are for the back 1x4s are all cut normal @ 31 1/2″. And the front 1x4s is cut at 1 1/4″ in and 1 1/4″ in. Attach using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 14:

Attach the 2×2 @ 27 1/2″ to the other 2×2 that is along the bottom of the ‘drawers’… just using 1 1/2″ pocket holes drilled toward the other 2×2 (not on the ends but along the whole 2×2 as if you were planking them together) and connecting it to the other 2×2 with 2 1/2″ screws and glue. Now using the hinges and magnetic clasps you can finish the vanity. After sanding and staining you’re done.

The original plan can be found at http://builditcraftitloveit.com

[email_link]

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