Category: Woodworking Plans

Towel Rack

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′

Cut List:

    • 5 – 1×2 at 9″ – Shelf
    • 10 – 1×2 at 3-3/4″ – Shelf
    • 2 – 1×2 at 19-3/4″ – Legs

Notes:

I recommend sealing the towel rack with spar urethane if it will be located in an area where a lot of moisture is present.

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the shelves. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one end only of each shorter shelf piece. Secure to the longer shelf pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Mark the position for the shelves on the back and front of the longer rack pieces.

Step 3:

Drill countersunk holes in the back of each back frame piece.

Step 4:

Attach the shelves using glue and 2-1/2″ screws from the back. I started with the bottom shelf on mine… Make sure to check for square before adding the remaining shelves!

Finish as desired. Drill countersunk holes in the back frame pieces. Mount the rack to the wall with 2-1/2″ screws into at least one wall stud. If there are no studs in the area where the rack will be mounted, use auger anchors in the drywall then secure using screws.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com

 
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Bathroom Shelf

Supply List:

  • 1 x 10 x 4′ board
  • 1 x 6 x 4′ board
  • 1 x 2 x 4′ board
  • Stain
  • Metal Hooks

Step 1:

My first step was making my cuts.  I used my Ridgid miter saw to make all my cuts.  You can also use a cheap hand saw.  It requires a bit more elbow grease, but totally gets the job done.

Step 2:

After making all my cuts, I used my Kreg Jig to put two 3/4″ pocket holes in each of my 1×6 pieces.  I put one at each of the arrows.

Step 3:

Attach both shelves with pocket screws

Step 4:

Add the front 1×2″ trim piece, glue and nail it on.

Step 5:

Now its time for stain. I applied a dark walnut stain, when dry I roughed it up with a sander on the edges to create a distressed look.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.shanty-2-chic.com

 
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Rustic Bathroom Vanity

The plans follow, but I do want to warn you, this is NOT a beginner project, so please don’t tackle as a first project.  But it’s not difficult, just alot of pieces and a need for precision when cutting and assembling.

Shopping List:

  • 5 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 48″ x 48″ 1/4″ plywood panel (for drawer bottoms)
  • 3 – 16″ Euro Style Drawer Slides
  • 3 – Back sockets that match the drawer slides
  • 3 Bin Pulls
  • 1 1/4 inch finish nails
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws

Cut List:

Cut list is per ONE bath vanity

  • 6 – 1×6 @ 31-3/4″ – side panels – cut three from 8′ long boards
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 18″ – side trim
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 32″ – back supports
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 31-3/4″ – front legs
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 26-1/2″ – front face frame, top and bottom
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 26-1/2″ – front face frame, middle
  • 2 – 1×6 @ 31-3/4″ – back
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 31-3/4″ – drawer slide supports
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 35″ – front trim – cut to fit

Drawers

  • 4 – 1×6 @ 16″ – larger drawer sides
  • 4 – 1×6 @ 23-3/4″ – larger drawer front/back
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 16″ – top drawer sides
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 23-3/4″ – top drawer front/back
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood @ 25-1/4″ x 16″ – drawer bottoms

Step 1:

Build the two side panels by laying three 1x6s down on a flat level surface, ensuring tops and bottoms are even.  TIP: I glue each 1×6 together, edge to edge and let dry to hold in place.  Attach the 1×2 trim on top of panels, overhanging ends by 3/4″.  There is a 2-1/2″ space under the bottom trim (see diagram in step 3).

Step 2:

Drill two pocket holes on each end of the back 1×3 support boards.  Attach with pocket hole screws, pocket holes exposed on back of cabinet.

Step 3:

Build the front face frame on a flat level surface with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.  Once complete, nail and glue to front of cabinet.

Take a second to ensure your cabinet is square – you can do this by taking diagonal measurements from opposite outside corners of the top of the cabinet, and adjusting until the diagonals match.

Step 4:

Nail and glue back pieces to the sides and top/bottom supports.  The purpose of these guys is to give you something to attach the drawer slides too, while still providing a finished edge (no plywood edges exposed on the back.

Step 5:

Nail and glue the 1×2 inside cleats to the face frame.  The purpose of these guys is to give you something to attach the drawer slides to on the front.

Step 6:

Finish the front trim – measure and cut to fit and nail and glue in place.

Step 7:

For full size drawers that don’t need to be cut around plumbing, construct as shown here with pocket holes.  Nail and glue bottom plywood on.

Step 8:

If you have to build drawers around plumbing, keep the same basic cuts, just install the back where it passes the plumbing and box out corners as needed.

Step 9:

The drawer slides are installed attached to the 1×2 cleat at front, and with a end socket on the back.

Step 10:

For the top, I used 1x boards and pocket holed them together, leaving an opening for my sink.  For my sink, I used 1x4s on front and back, and 1×12 pieces on the sides.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/

 
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Recessed Bathroom Shelf

Built into the wall just like a window, this shelf unit offers additional storage without taking up any extra space, helping to keep the bathroom looking spacious and clutter free. Made of MDF, the unit measures 26 1/2″ wide by 42″ high (30 1/2″ by 46″ with its frame). It is assembled in part using wood biscuits.

The shelves shown in the photo have been built into a wall that opens into a closet on the other side, which means that they are actually deeper than the wall is thick. The measurements given in this guide are for shelves 4″ deep, which can thus be fitted into a regular interior wall. The back of the shelf unit is closed off with a sheet of Masonite.

Cut List:

Click to Enlargen

ASSEMBLING FURNITURE WITH WOOD BISCUITS

This sturdy method of assembly involves inserting thin slices of compressed wood (“biscuits”) into slots made with a plate (or biscuit) joiner. When the biscuits come into contact with glue applied in the slots, they swell and stay wedged in place, holding the construction together. Once you have taken the time to learn how to use a biscuit joiner, the specialized tool required for this type of assembly,
you will find it a quick and easy technique.

Preparation

Vertical sides (A): Make the slots for the biscuits 13 1/4″
from each end of A, on one side only.
Spacers (F): Make the slots for the biscuits
in the very centre of the parts, i.e. 3/4″ from the edge.
Top / Bottom (G): Make the slots for the biscuits
in the very centre, i.e. 13 1/4″ from one of the ends.

Assembly

The shelf cubbies are formed by building individual “boxes” which are assembled with nails
and then fastened to each other using wood biscuits. Always apply glue to the inside of the slots before inserting the biscuits. Glue must also be applied to all the surfaces to be joined.

Assemble a vertical module by gluing and nailing two spacers F between two vertical sides A, one spacer at each end. All surfaces with slots should be facing outwards.

Assemble each of the four horizontal modules by gluing and nailing two spacers F between two horizontal sides C, one spacer at each end. All surfaces with slots should be facing outwards.

Fasten two horizontal modules between a side A and the vertical module, then do the same on the other side. Insert more spacers into the vertical module as needed, to prevent its sides from bending inwards. Hold in place with clamps and go straight on to the next step.

Apply glue to the slots in top / bottom G and to the ends of sides A. Insert the biscuits into the slots, then nail top / bottom G to sides A.

Glue and nail panel E to the back of the shelves.

Glue and nail one vertical facade B to the front of the vertical module and fasten short horizontal facades D to the horizontal modules in the same way.

Insert the shelf unit into the wall opening, resting it on the bottom girt. Check for level, then screw into the studs.

Glue and nail the two remaining vertical facades B and the two long horizontal facades H to the edges of the shelf unit in order to form a frame to conceal the cuts in the drywall. Fill the holes and apply a coat of primer. Paint.

The original plan can be found at https://www.rona.ca

 
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Bathroom Vanity

This vanity style will accommodate a 36″ wide x 24″ deep x 1″ thick top. The vanity has an open back to allow room for the plumbing. The upper drawers are “false” and non-working but the lower drawer is a functional drawer.

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1 set of 20″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′  sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/2″ – Legs
  • 6 – 2×2 at 20-3/4″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 20-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 7 – 2×2 at 29-1/2″ – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 8 – 1×3 at 20-3/4″ – Lower Slats
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 29-1/2″ – False Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 27″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 18-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 28-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-1/4″ x 29-1/4″ – Drawer Front Base
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 1-3/8″ x 29-1/4 – Drawer Front
  • 1- 1/4″ plywood at 3-3/4″ – x 29-1/4″ Drawer Front

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Secure to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the back and front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the slat pieces. Space the slats as shown securing them to the lower front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the false drawer fronts. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of one pieces, and the sides and upper edge of the other piece. Secure the pieces to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face will be flush with the front face of the stretchers.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the drawer front. The base is cut from 1/2″ material, and the “fronts” are cut from 1/4″ material that is glued and clamped into place until dry. There is 1/8″ gap between the 1/4″ pieces on the base.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. Drill holes in the false drawer fronts for the cabinet pulls, and install the pulls.

Finish as desired.

 

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com

 
[email_link]
 

Medicine Cabinet

To install a recessed medicine cabinet you need to cut a hole in the wall, remove the drywall and some studs and prepare the studs with additional 2×4’s to make a secure space to mount the cabinet.  This Old House has a good article to help you prepare your wall for the medicine cabinet.  One important note, you shouldn’t install a recessed medicine cabinet (of this size) in a load bearing wall.

The hole in the wall for this medicine cabinet should be 47 1/4″ wide x 31 1/2″ tall.  An easy tool to use to cut the drywall nicely is an oscillating or job plus tool with the semi-circle blade.

Materials:

  • 6 – Inset Cabinet Door Hinges
  • 3 Latches
  • 1 sheet Beadboard or 1/4″ plywood
  • Mirror – 3 cut to 11 1/2″ x 27 1/2″
  • 7 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″)
  • wood glue
  • 1 1/2″ screws
  • 1 1/4″ pocket screws or brad nails
  • sand paper
  • wood filler
  • primer/paint/stain
  • 24 or more Shelf Support Pegs

Cut List:

  • (4) 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 30″ – 1×4 Lumber – Cabinet Dividers
  • (2) 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 47 1/4″ – 1×4 Lumber – Cabinet Base/top
  • (1) 1/4″ x 47 1/4″ x 31 1/2″ – plywood – Back
  • (4) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 30″ – 1×4 Lumber – Face frame divider
  • (2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 48″ – 1×4 Lumber – Face frame top/bottom
  • (12) 3/4″ x 3 1/4″ x 14 1/2″ – 1×4 Lumber – Shelves
  • (6) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 39 7/8″ – 1×4 Lumber – Door Stiles
  • (6) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 11 9/16″ – 1×4 Lumber – Door Rails

Step 1:

Cut 4 pieces of 1×4 that are 30″ long and 2 pieces that are 47 1/4″.  Drill holes for the shelf pegs in the boards.  The holes need to be 1/4″ diameter and 3/8″ deep or more.  Drill as many holes as you’d like depending on how you want your shelves spaced and if you want to move them around.

If you have a Kreg Jig, you may want to drill pocket holes to attach the cabinet to the face frame now (see step 2).  Mark the spacing of the center of the vertical dividers on the 47 1/4″ pieces.  Drill pilot holes (2x at each joint) and secure together with wood glue and 1 1/2″ screws.

Cut the bead board or 1/4″ plywood to 47 1/4″ x 31 1/2″, cut 1/2″ or longer brad nails to attach it to the back of the cabinet.

Step 2:

Cut 4 pieces of wood that are 1 1/2″ x 30″ and 2 that are 1 1/2″ x 48″.  Drill pocket holes (affiliate link) on the back side of the 30″ pieces.  Mark the attachment spacing on the 48″ pieces according to the sketch below.  Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket screws to secure the face frame together.  (If you don’t use a pocket hole jig, you can assemble the face frame with dowels, biscuits or tenons.  Or even use glue and brad nails to attach each piece to the cabinet.)

Line up the face frame to the cabinet.  The inside top and bottom should be flush with the cabinet and the dividers should have a 3/8″ offset on each side.

Drill pocket holes in the cabinet outer sides to attach the face frame.  Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket screws to attach the face frame to the cabinet.  (If you don’t have a pocket hole jig, you can use brad nails to attach the face frame to the cabinet).

Step 3:

Cut shelves for the cabinet.  Make as many as you want, I estimated about 12 that are 3/4″ x 3 1/4″ x 14 1/2″.  Use shelf support pegs and dry-fit the shelves in the cabinet, trim as needed.

Step 4:

It’s time for the doors!  These doors are simple shaker style with a mirror as the panel, they are fairly easy to make as cabinet doors go, you just need a table saw.  Cut 6 pieces of wood that are 1 1/2″ x 29 7/8″ and 6 that are 1 1/2″ x 11 9/16″.  Starting with the 11 9/16″ pieces, we need to make a tongue on each end.

On each side cut a dado 1/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep, leaving a tongue 1/4″ x 3/8″.  Repeat for each end.  Then cut a groove down the center of one side that is 3/8″ deep and 1/4″ wide.  You can do this by making multiple passes on the table saw with the blade set at 3/8″ high.

Cut the same 3/8″ deep x 1/4″ wide groove on one side of each 29 7/8″ board.  Make sure the tongue will fit snug (but not too tight) in the groove of the 29 7/8″ pieces.

Cut the mirror pieces to 27 1/2″ x 11 1/2″, dry fit the mirror into the groove.  Depending on the thickness of your mirror, you may need to add thin hardboard to the back for support.

Assemble a door rail and 2 stiles, slide the mirror in place and put the top stile on.  When making cabinet doors, you only glue the rail and stile joint (tongue and groove), not the panel.  Once assembled with wood glue, clamp (making sure the door is flat and square) until the glue is dry.

Step 5:

Inset cabinet doors need a little gap around the door to open and close, this door should have a 1/16″ gap around the door.  There are quite a few inset cabinet hinges that you can choose from, some show, some don’t, depends on your style.  Install the hinges, 2 per door about 2 – 3 inches from the top and bottom (account for the 1/16″ gap).  Make sure they fit well into the face frame opening, you may have to trim the door edges and that’s fine.

Step 6:

Next fill any holes or gaps with filler.  Let the filler dry then sand the cabinet and doors, make sure to get any excess glue and filler smooth.  End sanding your project with 120 -150 grit sand paper.  Remove excess dust.  If painting, prime the doors and allow to dry.  If staining, use wood pre-conditioner and stain as you like.

Once the primer is dry, apply the paint and let dry.  If you’d like, apply a top coat.  If you used light colored paint use polycrylic.  Allow to dry sufficiently.

Install the cabinet in the wall, securing it in place with 1 1/2″ or longer screws into the studs.  Attach door latches if desired.

Enjoy your medicine cabinet!

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.hertoolbelt.com

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Bathroom Storage Cabinet

Material List:

  • 2 – 1 x 6 x 8 pine or whitewood boards
  • 4 – 1 x 4 x 8 pine or whitewood boards
  • 1/4″ hardwood plywood cut to 19″ x 63″
  • Full Length beveled mirror
  • 3M Stainable Wood Filler
  • ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape
  • 3M Advanced Abrasives 120 grit sanding paper
  • 3m safety glasses
  • 4 decorative hinges
  • 1 pull or knob
  • magnet closures
  • wood stain of your color choice

Click to Enlargen

Step 1: Assemble the door parts

Assemble the door parts with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the 1/4” plywood to the back using a thin bead of wood glue and staples.

Next, use a Kreg Jig to make 3/4″ pocket holes in each end of my 16″ pieces.

Kreg Jig K5

I attached my 16″ pieces to my 67″ pieces using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Next, I added some wood glue to the frame and attached it down on my 1/4″ hardwood plywood.

Before attaching all of my pieces I like to use a sanding pad to quickly remove the splinters on the edges.  This paper works great because I can keep it in my pocket and pull it out as I need it quickly… Perfect before attaching your boards!

Step 2: Assemble the case frame

Assemble the case frame. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to attach the horizontal 1 x 6 pieces to the vertical 1 x 6 pieces.

Use a Kreg Right Angle Clamp to hold everything together while I attached it using 1.25″ pocket hole screws.

Next, I added my top and bottom braces.   These were the same length as my shelf pieces, so I cut seven 1×4 pieces at 23 1/8″ each.

These will be used to attach the cabinet to the wall.  You can see here where I added pocket holes to these boards before I attached them.  This is a shot of the back.  These brace pieces will sit flush with the back of the cabinet.

Step 3: Add the shelves

Add the shelves. You can choose whatever height you want or use the measurements that I used. These are installed so that the pocket holes are on the bottom of each shelf and with the back side of the shelf lined up with the back of the case.

Step 4: Finish and Attach to the wall

At this point you can sand and stain using your finish of choice. Drill through the top and bottom braces at the correct distance to locate two of your wall studs. Secure the case to the wall with two 3” wood screws in each brace.

Step 5: Glue mirror, attach hardware and hang door

Using mirror glue attach the mirror to the door. After giving the glue enough time to cure you can position the door where you want it in the case with a pair of clamps at the top. Then add your hinges, door pull, and magnetic latch.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.shanty-2-chic.com

 
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Medicine Cabinet

Cabinetry and casework are fundamental to making built-ins and bookcases. This small wall-hung cabinet is a useful item for bathroom or kitchen, and it is a great project for a beginning carpenter to develop some basic cabinetry skills. It is also extremely inexpensive to make.

The entire case, including the top, can be built from an 8-ft.- long piece of 1 × 10 wood (you’ll need a little extra material for the shelving and the towel  rod). The mitered frames applied to the fronts of the door give the look and feel of a raised panel door, without any of the fuss. We built the version of the cabinet you see here out of No. 2 and better pine and then gave it an orangey maple finish. You can choose any lumber you like for this, even sheet stock such as mdF, and apply a clear or a painted finish. For a traditional look, choose a white enamel paint. Be sure and apply several thin coats of polyurethane varnish, especially if the cabinet will be installed in a wet area like a bathroom.

Step 1: Cut the Top Board to 19 1/2″

Shape a decorative profile into the top using a router and piloted ogee bit. Do not remove more than 3/4″ of material along the bottom edges.

Step 2: Cut the stock for both doors to length

Sand them smooth. The final width of the material should be 9″. Once the stock is prepared, cut the doors to length.

Step 3: Photocopy the Pattern + Make a Hardboard Template Guide

Click to Enlargen

Cut the stock for the cabinet sides to width (7½”) or select a piece of 1 × 8 stock and simply sand the edges. Photocopy the pattern and use it to make a hardboard template guide to trace the profile onto the bottom of one cabinet side.

Step 4: Cut Out the Profile Using a Jigsaw

Clamp the two sides together so the ends and edges all are flush. Then, cut out the profile in both pieces at once using a jigsaw.

Step 5: Locate the Center point for Drilling the Dowel Hole

Locate the center point for drilling the ¾”-dia. dowel hole for the towel rod. Drill the hole with a ¾” spade bit, making sure to slip a backer board underneath the bottom board to prevent tearout when the bit exits the work piece

Step 6: Apply Wood Glues to the Ends of All Three Parts

Lay the side boards on a flat surface, lying parallel and on their back edges. Cut the 1 × 2 cleat and the 7″-wide shelves to length (16½”). Then, apply wood glue to the ends of all three parts and clamp them between the cabinet sides.

Step 7: Reinforce the Glued Joints

Before the glue sets (about 15 minutes) drive three 6d finish nails through the cabinet sides and into each shelf end. Drive a pair of nails into the wall cleat.

Step 8: Insert the Towel Rod Into the Holes in the Cabinet Sides

Glue the ends of the towel rod into the holes in the cabinet sides and then pin it in place with a finish nail driven through the back edge of each side.

Step 9: Miter the Corners of Molding

Miter the corners of screen retainer molding and nail and glue decorative frames to the door fronts.

Step 10: Apply finish or Paint to the cabinet doors

Apply your finish or paint the cabinet before you hang the doors and install the cabinet top.

Step 11: Hang the cabinet doors

Use care to position the doors so the outside edges are flush with the outer faces of the cabinets sides. The tops should be about 1/8″ below the top edges of the cabinet sides. Hang the cabinet doors with 1½” brushed chrome or nickel butt hinges

Step 12: Attach the finished cabinet top

Attach the top by driving a few finish nails through it and into the top edges of the cabinet sides, as well as into the top edges of the wall cleat.

Step 13: Hang the cabinet

Locate wall studs in the installation area. Where possible, position the cabinet so it hits two studs. Attach the cabinet with wood screws driven through the wall cleat and into the studs.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.blackanddecker.com

 
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Medicine Cabinet

Materials:

  • 1/4″ x 4′ x 8′ Oak (or other hardwood) Plywood: One Piece for the Back and Door Panels
  • 3/4″ x 6″ x 8′ Solid Oak Material: Three pieces

Step 1: Cut and Assemble the Cabinet Box Pieces – Determine the desired size of the Medicine Cabinet

  • Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 5.25″ x 30″; for the Sides
  • Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 5.25″ x 28.25″; for the Top and Bottom Panels
  • Select the Sides, Top, and Bottom Panels; Dado the back/inside edges 1/4″ Deep x 3/8″ to receive the Back Panel
  • Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut three pieces @ 5″ x 28.25″; for the Shelves
  • Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut one piece @ 3″ x 28.25″; for the Nailing Brace
  • Using the Kreg System, drill holes on all surfaces indicated above, sand all surfaces, and complete the Box Assembly

Step 2: Cut and Assemble the Face Frame and Back Panel – Select the 3/4″ Oak Material and 1/4″ Plywood

  • Select the 3/4″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 1.5″ x 30″ for the Right/Left sides; Cut two pieces @ 1.5″ x 26.75″ for the Top and Bottom Rails; Cut one piece @ 27″ for the Center Board
  • Select the five Face Frame pieces; Dry-fit the pieces on a flat surface with the reverse side up; Pre-drill two Kregg holes in each end of the pieces and sand, as shown above.
  • Use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig system; drill the holes at the edges of the Frame Pieces, as shown above.
  • Select the five Face Frame pieces; Connect the pieces with the Kreg Screws
  • Select the Face Frame Assembly; Connect the Frame Assembly to the Cabinet Box front edge with Kreg Screws through the pre-drilled Kreg holes on the pieces of the Cabinet Box
  • Select the 1/4″ Oak Plywood; Cut one piece @ 29″ x 29.25″ for the Back Panel; Connect the Back Panel to the reverse side of the cabinet with 1″ screws or brads

Step 3: Make and Attach the Cabinet Doors – Select the 3/4″ Solid Oak Material and Plywood

  • Select the 3/4″ Oak Material; Cut four pieces @ 1.5″ x 29.5″ (45 degree corners) for the sides; Cut four pieces @ 1.5″ x 13.75″ (45 degree corners) for the top/bottom door rails
  • Select the Oak Material door pieces; Select a router bit design of choice and router both edges of the exterior sides
  • Select the Oak Material door pieces; Using a 1/4″ Dado blade, make a 3/8″ deep cut, centered on the interior edges of all eight pieces to receive the Door Panel, as shown above
  • Select the Oak Plywood; Cut two pieces @ 27.25″ x 11.5″ for the Door Panels
  • Select the Door Pieces; Dry-fit the pieces; Sand all pieces; Assemble the Doors with Glue and tack the corners
  • Select the Door Assemblies; Apply hinges of choice, and attach to the Cabinet Face Frame

Step 4: Finish the Medicine Cabinet – Select the Finishing Materials

  • Use Wood Filler for all holes
  • Complete all sanding
  • Apply a minimum of three coats of poly

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.woodworkingcorner.com

 
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Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Make full use of your bathroom space by building a sleek storage cabinet that also doubles as a full-length mirror. This bathroom mirror storage cabinet is 5 ½” deep on the inside, 24” wide and 60” tall, with adjustable shelving to easily fit products of any height. You can tackle this project in one afternoon.

Materials:

  • (4) 1 x 6 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
  • (3) 1 x 4 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
  • 1/4 x 24 x 96” Fir Plywood
  • (28) 1 1/2” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (32) 1” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (8) 3” Bugle-Head Screws
  • (8) 1 1/2” Pocket-Hole Screws
  • (80) 5/8” Hinge Screws (typically included with packaged hinge)
  • 1 1/2 x 60” Brass Piano Hinge
  • (20) 3/8” Shelf Pegs
  • 120-Grit Sandpaper
  • 180-Grit Sandpaper
  • 3/8” Drill Bit
  • 1/8” Drill Bit
  • Pocket Hole Jig + Piloting Bit
  • Single-Strength Mirror (approx. 17 x 53”)
  • Mirror Adhesive
  • Masking Tape
  • Wood Glue
  • Clamps

Cut List:

1×6 Boards:

  • (2) pieces, 60” long for the sides
  • (2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom
  • (5) pieces, 22 3/8” long for the shelves

1×4 Boards:

  • (2) pieces, 60” long for the sides of the door
  • (2) pieces, 17” long for the top and bottom of the door
  • (2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom back rails

Step 1: Build the box

Place the two 60” 1 x 6 side pieces on-edge, parallel to each other. Apply wood glue to the ends of the two 22 1/2” 1 x 6 pieces, and place them flush between the sides at the top and bottom to form a rectangular frame. Use a drill and a 1/8” drill bit to drill three evenly spaced, 3/8” pilot holes from each end of the side pieces. Drive 1 1/2” screws through the sides and into the end pieces to assemble the cabinet box.

TIP: Depending on what type of screw you’re using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.

Step 2: Attach the back rails


Apply wood glue to the back of the 22 1/2” 1 x 4 back rail, and place it inside the cabinet box frame, flush at the back and the top of the frame. Drill pilot holes through the sides and top of the box to penetrate into the back rail. Attach the back rail using eight 1 1/2” screws. Install the second back rail in the same position on the bottom of the box.

Step 3: Drill holes for adjustable shelves

Use a 3/8” drill bit to drill two vertical rows of holes on the inside faces of the box sides, 1” from the front and back edges. Space each pair of holes 2” apart vertically, and drill the holes 1/2” deep.

TIP: Place a piece of masking tape ½” above the drill bit. This will help indicate the depth of the holes.

Step 4: Build the door

Build the door facedown. Use a pocket-hole jig, piloting bit and drill two pocket holes in both ends of the two 17” pieces of 1 x 4. Apply wood glue to the ends of the 17” pieces, and place them flush between the two 60” pieces of 1 x 4. Add clamps to the joint and then screw the door frame together with 1 1/2” pocket hole screws, using the screwdriver. Measure the overall width and length of the door frame. Cut a piece of 1/4” fir plywood to the frame’s dimensions. Apply glue and screw the plywood to the back of the door, with 1” screws spaced 6” apart.

TIPS:

  • Pocket holes are angular holes that allow you to join two flat pieces of wood together at 90°. Pocket holes are made with a small jig that positions the bit to penetrate through the end of one piece into the side of a corresponding piece.
  • It’s helpful to clamp the joints of the door together while joining them with screws. Add additional clamps to keep the door flat.

Step 5: Order the mirror


Measure the recess inside the door frame and subtract 3/16” from the width and length. Order a single-strength mirror to the measured dimensions.

Step 6: Sand and finish


Use 120-grit sandpaper to sand the cabinet box, shelves and door. Round over all the corners and edges. Apply the stain or paint and allow it to dry as directed. Seal the stained wood with two coats of aerosol lacquer, hand-sanding in between coats with 180-grit sandpaper.

Step 7: Install the mirror

Place the door face up on a flat surface. Apply mirror adhesive liberally to the plywood. Set the mirror into the opening. Place books or other similar items on the mirror to aid adhesion. Allow the adhesive to dry as directed.

Step 8: Hang the door

Use a 1 ½” x 60” piano hinge to the side of the cabinet box, using 5/8” screws. Place the door on the cabinet and screw the other half of the hinge to the side of the door.

Step 9: Hang the cabinet

Locate at least two wall studs in the desired location for the cabinet. Fit the cabinet on the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Anchor the cabinet to the wall through the top and bottom back rails with 3” screws driven into the wall studs.

Step 10: Install the shelves

Place 3/8” shelf pegs in corresponding shelf-peg holes. Insert the shelves in the cabinet, resting them on top of the pegs. You can store toiletries, beauty products, folded towels and other small bathroom items on the shelves.

The original plan can be found at https://www.blackanddecker.com

 
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