BBQ Grill and Cooler Table

Today I’m going to show you How to Build a Patio Cooler and Grill Cart Combo.  The grilling season is upon us!  The cool weather is making an exit and the heat, BBQ, and outdoor parties are here.  Two things I’ve been thinking of building are a patio cooler and a grill cart.  Since my back deck is not huge I decided to kill two birds with one stone and show you guys how to make a DIY patio cooler box and BBQ cart in one.

The project is made from cedar to withstand the elements and give it a nice classy look.  The heart of the cooler box side is 48 qt cooler with plenty of capacity for your parties.  The grilling side has a storage compartment and hooks to hold all your BBQ accessories.  The lid for the storage box is flush with no hinges or handles giving you a 22″ x 20″ landing space for food and other barbecue fixings.  The assembly is easy and straight forward so read ahead and get ready to get your summer outdoor entertaining game on point!


  • (13) 12′ 1×4 cedar boards
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Exterior Screws
  • 48qt Cooler
  • 3″ utility hinges
  • Front handle
  • Bottle Opener
  • Single Hooks
  • Hose Bib
  • (2) 1/2″ Male PVC Adapter
  • 1/2″ PVC Pipe
  • 1/2″ PVC Nut

I built the cooler box and grilling station entirely out of 1×4 cedar.  My local lumber supplier had 12′ boards that were rough on one side and I was able to get them for half the price of what you would pay at the big box store for the cedar 1x4s.  If this is an option for you then you can save some significant money going this route.

Building the Patio Cooler Base

You’ll start by building the top frame based on the size of your cooler.  The top of my cooler was 23-3/4″ x 13-1/2″.  If your cooler is a different size then you’ll need to adjust the top frame accordingly and see if you need to adjust the base as well.

Cut 2 boards to 50″ for the long top frame pieces and 3 boards to 13-1/2″ for the short top frame pieces.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of the short pieces and assembly with 1-1/4″ pocket screws.  This will give a 15-3/4″ opening for the grilling storage box.

Cut 8 boards down to 38-1/4″ long for the legs.  Rip down 4 of these boards to narrow leg pieces at 2-3/4″ wide.  Use a pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes in the 2-3/4″ pieces in the top 13″ of the leg and another hole 2″ up from the bottom.

Join the narrow leg pieces to the wide pieces glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws on the top and bottom.  In the gap where there are no pocket holes, use clamps to hold the joints tight.  Make two legs with the narrow pieces on the right side and two with the narrow pieces on the left side.  This lets you have the wide face of the legs showing on the front and back of the cooler.

Cut 8 pieces of side cladding to 16-1/2″ long.  Use a trim router to route a 1/16″ 45 degree chamfer on the outer edges of each board.  This will give the boards a nice beadboard look when butted together.

Lay two legs down and starting from the top, attach 4 side cladding pieces to the legs with two 1-1/4″ screws on each side of each board. Repeat this process with the other 2 legs to form 2 side assemblies.

Cut 4 pieces of front cladding and 4 pieces of back cladding to 44-1/2″ long, and route a chamfer on the long edges just like the side cladding.  Side the side assemblies on edge and starting at the top, attach the front cladding to the sides with 1-1/4″ screws.

Flip the assembly over and now attach the 4 back cladding pieces to the sides.  Now you have the base of your patio cooler and grill cart combo!

Cut two 3/4″ x 3/4″ top front cleats 14″ long and one top side cleat 11″ long.  Predrill holes on the bottom for attaching the top frame later.  Secure the 11″ cleat to the middle of the right side flush with the top and secure the 14″ cleats to the front and the back 1-1/2″ away from the right side.

Make the Grill Cart Storage Bay and Bottom Shelf

Attach two 1″ wide 14″ long cleats to the inside of the front and back walls, 18″ from the right side.  Cut four 15″ wide storage divider boards and glue and screw them to the cleats to create the storage bay.

Cut and install two 17-1/4″ cleats to the front and back of the storage bay.  Put them 3/4″ up from the bottom of the bay then attach five 15″ storage bay bottom pieces to the cleats with screws from underneath.  The middle board will need to be trimmed to fit.

Attach the top frame to the base with pocket hole screws on the cooler side and with 1-1/4″ screws through the cleats in the storage bay.  Use glue on all the top surfaces for a good hold.

Cut two 46″ long 1″ wide shelf stretchers and eleven 16-1/2″ shelf slats.  Attach the slats to the stretchers with glue and a brad nailer.  For consistent spacing start with the outer slats and then secure the middle slat.  From there fill in the gaps spacing the slats 3/4″ apart.

Test fit your cooler in the opening and remove the cooler drain plug.  Reach a marker through the cooler drain and mark a spot on the left side of the patio cooler.  Drill a 1-1/4″ hole in the side for the plumbing fittings.

Flip the grill cart combo over and put the cooler in place.  Secure the cooler by installing three 15″ cooler supports into the front and back with 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Making the Cooler Box and Grill Bay Lids

Flip the cooler back over and cut four 15-3/4″ long storage bay lid pieces.  Put a chamfer on the boards with the trim router like the body cladding.  Drill a 1″ hole in the middle of one board and chamfer the top edge of the hole.

Cut two 13-1/2″ by 1″ wide lid battens.  Line the lid boards up together with the board with the hole at one end and fasten the boards together using the battens, glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

Make 4 small 1-1/2″ x 2″ storage lid tabs.  Round one corner of the tabs and install them in the top corners of the storage bay with glue and brad nails into the top corners of the storage bay.

Build the frame around the lid by based on your own cooler measurements.  The sides should be 3/4″ taller than your lid.  I cut two lid front/back pieces to 25-1/4″ by 2″ and two side piece 13-1/2″ by 2″.  Join the lid frame with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut 3 lid support cleats to 13-1/2″ by 1″ and attach them to the front and back with pocket holes. Place the outer cleats so they are directly over the side ridges on your lid that mate with the cooler body. You’ll be screwing into the lid later and don’t want the screws to pop through the underside of the lid.

Make 5 lid top pieces out of 25-1/4″ boards.  Route the 45 degree chamfers on these boards just as the others.  Layout the boards on the top and cut the center piece to width to fit.  Use super glue and temporarily affix the full size boards to the edges of the frame.

Flip the lid over and permanently attach the lid boards to the cleats with 1-1/4″ screws.

Flip the lid over again on top of the cooler.  Now secure the top to the cooler lid with 1-1/4″ screws through the outer cleats into the lid.  Attach the center board with wood glue on the center cleats and super glue on the outer edges.  The super glue will bond quickly and the wood glue will give a long lasting hold.  Assembling the lid this way give you a super clean look with no nail or screw holes…SCORE!

Installing the Cooler Drain & Lower Shelf

Remove the drain from your cooler and keep the washer on the inside.  Get two 1/2″ PVC male threaded adapters, a length of 1/2″ PVC, a 1/2″ nut and a hose bib for the outside of the cooler.

The length of the PVC pipe will vary per installation.  Cut a hose bib mounting block to 3-1/2″ by 3-1/2″ and drill a 1″ hole through it for the male adapter.  You may need to drill a larger hole with the collar if the fitting won’t go through.  Glue up the final PVC parts and install them on the hose bib and mounting block.  Put wood glue around the mounting block and insert the assembly into the cooler and lock in place using the nut in the cooler.

Sand everything down to 150 grit and apply your finish at this point.  I used a Spar Urethane made for outdoors.

After the finish is dry, install the lower shelf so the bottom is 2-1/2″ up from the floor.  I would recommend turning the patio cooler on it’s top to do this vs. laying it on its back like I did

Hardware for the Patio Cool / Grill Cart Combo

The cooler lid gets 3″ utility hinges and a handle on the front.

I added a bottle opener on the front and 2 hooks on the grilling side of the cart as well.

I put my inserts for my STOK Quattro grill into the storage side and it worked great to hold them all.  I just put some little dividers in there to keep them separated.

Alright, you’re all finished up!  Put the patio cooler and grill cart combo out on your deck and let the good times roll this summer.

The original plan can be found at


BBQ Table

This plan makes a table 47 inches wide, 22 inches deep and 36 inches high with the top added. All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.


  • (8) 1×4 @ 8′
  • (2) 1×6 @ 8′
  • 1 1/4″ screws

Cut List:

  • (8) 1×4 @ 35 1/4″ – Legs
  • (2) 1×4 @ 38″ – Top rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 42″ – Bottom rails for front and back
  • (2) 1×4 @ 11 1/2″ – Top rails for sides
  • (2) 1×4 @ 18 1/2″ – Bottom rails for sides
  • (11) 1×4 @ 17″ – Shelf slats
  • (4) 1×6 @ 36″ – Top
  • (2) 1×6 @ 22″ – Top

Step 1 – Make the two Sides

Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make each side. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 11 ½ inches long, one piece 18.5 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 11 ½ inch piece. The 18 ½ inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 18 ½ inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled. Also drill pocket holes on the outside edges of the legs as shown below for fixing the sides to the front and back frames.

Step 2– Make the front and back frames

Use the following pieces of 1 by 4 to make the front and back frames. Two pieces measuring 35 ¼ inches long, one piece 38 inches long, one piece 42 inches long. Put the pocket holes on the short edges of the 38 inch piece. The 42 inch piece will be fixed using 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Screw through the 42 inch piece in to the legs to make sure the screw head is hidden once the table is assembled.

Step 3– Join the sides and front and back together

Join the sides and front and back frames together as shown below. This is why the pocket holes were put on the outer edges of the inside of the sides.

Step 4 – Add the shelf pieces

Add the 17 inch long pieces of 1 by 4 as the shelf supports. Drill pocket holes on both ends of each 17 inch piece and attach them flush with the top edge of the bottom rail. Check the exact dimensions of your boards as they may not be exactly 3.5 inches wide. For mine I worked out the spacing between each board had to be 11/32 inches. It helps to cut a spacer from scrap wood to use.

Step 5 – Make the top

Make the top from the 1 by 6 pieces as shown below.

Tip : If using Cedar then I have found the 1 by 6 boards are actually smaller than the actual width of 5.5 inches advertised. Attach the four 36 inch long pieces together first and then cut the two end pieces exactly to the size required.

Step 6 – Fit the top

Drill pocket holes facing upwards all the way around the top of the frame.
Place the top with the good side down and then place the upturned frame on top. Make sure you have equal gap all around and then fix the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws.

The original plan can be found at


BBQ Grilling Station

Please note that these plans do not include instructions/materials for the top of the table. I planned to do a concrete top to inset the grill, but Mr. Goats broke his toe and I am physically unable to handle an 80lbs bag of concrete. The top photographed is made from cedar fence pickets and i would be perfectly content with it if I hadn’t had my heart set on a concrete top. It’s weather-resistant and beautiful! If you love it, add 5 fence pickets to your shopping list.

Shopping List:


  • 8 – 2×[email protected]
  • 12 – 5 1/2″ x 72″ (1×6) Cedar Fence Pickets (we only have dog-eared, so that’s what I used)
  • 3 – 1×[email protected]
  • 1 – set of outdoor hinges + pull
  • 1 1/4″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • 2 1/2″ outdoor pocket hole screws
  • Outdoor Glue (I use Titebond III)


Cut List:


  • 4 @ 49″ (stretchers)
  • 4 @ 32″ (legs)
  • 2 @ 24″ (shelf stretcher)
  • 2 @ 24 1/2″ (front/back divider)
  • 8 @ 25″ (deep stretchers)


1×6 Cedar Fence Pickets

  • 15 @ 28″ (shelf boards and side slats)
  • 7 @ 22″ (front and back of “drawer”)
  • 6 @ 21″ (sides of “drawer”)
  • 3 @ 22″ (bottom of “drawer”)


  • 2 @ 24″ (drawer frame front stiles)
  • 2 @ 17″ (drawer frame back stiles)
  • 4 @ 19″ (drawer frame rails)
  • 4 @ 21″ (drawer stretchers)

56 1/2″ W x 30″ D x 33 1/2″ H (dimensions are given based on suggested tabletop size, accounting for a 1 1/2″ top)

Step 1:

You get two pictures in one step because I didn’t capture all of the dimensions in a single shot.

Begin by building the main frame using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top “shelf” can be placed at your desired height, but make sure to match the front and back frames. Make two.

Step 2:

With your front and back frames built, you can add the 25″ stretchers as pictured. I found it easiest to start from the outsides, in. The only thing to pay special attention to is the bottom, middle stretcher. It should be flush with the top of the adjoining boards.

Step 3:

Finish adding the stretchers to create the top shelf.

Step 4:

Make the front frame for your “drawer” using glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:


Make the back frame for your “drawer”.

Step 6:

With your 21″ dividers, create your drawer “box” as shown above.

Step 7:

Finish your box by first gluing/screwing the side boards in from the front and back of the frames (countersinking your screws) and then gluing/screwing the front and backs. I screwed from the inside of the drawer frames into the outer boards. Set aside.

You have the option of leaving gaps between the boards to fill up all the space or ripping a board to the remaining gap, but I just left the space at the top.

Step 8:

Notch out four of the shelf boards to the dimensions above. These will be the front and back boards of your shelves.

Screw your shelf boards in place, starting with the bottom shelf, first. Use glue and 1 1/4″ outdoor screws (I used pocket hole screws w/o pocket holes, because it was what I had).

Step 9:

Insert the pull out “drawer”, using a 1/4″ spacer on the bottom. Attach hinges and drawer pull. If necessary, add a stop block (created with a wood scrap) to the inside of the frame using glue and screws.

Step 10:

Screw on the side slats using glue and 1 1/4″ screws.

There! Your table is built!! The choices on tops are endless, from tile to wood to concrete! Suggested dimensions for the top are 30″ x 56 1/2″.


The original plan can be found at


BBQ Grill Cart


  • (5) 2 x 8 x 8-ft. boards
  • (6) 2 x 4 x 8-ft. boards
  • (4) 3-in. steel swivel casters
  • (4) 2 x 2 x 36″ Angle irons
  • 3″ Deck screws
  • 1 Can of spray paint
  • Mineral oil to season the butcher block surface
  • Butcher block conditioner
  • Cutting oil to use as a lubricant for drilling through the metal

Step 1: Cut the lumber

Cut the wood into the lengths shown in the diagram above.

Step 2: Build the Shelves

Screw together the 2x4s into rectangular frames and then screw the longer pieces of 2x8s and 2x4s on top of them.

Step 3: Drill through the angle irons

Drill through the angle irons with the 3/16 in. bit. Check to make sure that the screws fit through the holes. Then use the larger drill bit to create a hole over the 3/16th hole to countersink the screws.

Step 4: Paint the angle irons

Clean the cutting oil off the angle irons and then paint them with spray paint.

Step 5: Attach the angle irons

Screw through the holes drilled in the angle irons and into the wood shelves.

Step 6: Attach the top

Screw through the top boards and into the frame.

Step 7: Seal or stain wood

Finish the wood with a butcher-block conditioner.

Step 8: Add wheels and accessories

Screw on the wheels and other accessories.


The original plan can be found at



BBQ Grill Cart

You’ve perfected your grilling technique. You’ve mastered the marinade. Now take your outdoor culinary skills to the next level by building our red cedar cookout cart. It’s the perfect mobile staging area for storing and preparing food. Chop vegetables or slice meat on its lift-off polyethylene cutting board, then dump scraps through its hole and into a sliding stainless-steel pan below. Another larger pan on the left slides out to give you access to stored meat, fish, vegetables or ice. Lean cookbooks against the backsplash and keep condiments in the lift-out tray on the left. After the feast, the slide-out pans, the cutting board and the condiment tray come inside for cleaning while the cart stays outside with your grill.


  • A – (2) 5/4” x 4” x 44” (handle)
  • B – (2) 1” x 4” x 34 ½” (front leg)
  • C – (2) 1” x 4” x 32” (rear leg)
  • D – (6) 1” x 4” x 22” (frame end)
  • E – (6) 1” x 4” x 30 ½” (frame side)
  • F – (2) 1” x 4” x 20 ½” (frame, stretcher)
  • G – (1) ¾” dia. x 24 ¼” (steel handle)
  • H – (2) 8” dia. (cart wheel)
  • I – (1) 1” x 4” x 17 7/8” (top, center) (actual width is 4”; rip from 1×6)
  • J – (1) 1” x 4 ½” x 17 7/8” (top, end) (rip from 1×6)
  • K – (1) 1” x 3” x 37 ¼” (top, back)(rip from 1×4)
  • L – (1) 1” x 4” x 23 ½” (top, stretcher)
  • M – (1) 1” x 4 ¼” x 37 ¼” (top, front) (rip from 1×6)
  • N – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 20 ½” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
  • O – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 22 ¼” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
  • P – (1) 1” x 6 ¼” x 37 ¼” (backsplash)(cut from 1×8)
  • Q – (3) 5/4” x 1 ¾” x 22” (pan runners)
  • R – (6) 3/8” x 2 ½” (dowels)
  • S – (4) 1” x 2 ¼” x 2 ¼” (corner block)
  • T – (2) 1/8” x 8” x 14” (knife shield)
  • U – (1) ¾” x 17 ¾” x 23 ¾” (cutting board)
  • V – (22) 3/8” x 1 ½” x 31 7/8” (shelf slats)
  • W – (1) 6” x 12 ¾” x 21” (large pan)
  • X – (1) 6” x 10 ½” x 12” (small pan)
  • Y – (1) 3” x 5” x 18 ¾” (condiment tray)

Step 1: Clamp, then screw

Crosscut the parts for the three frames. Clamp the parts together and bore countersunk pilot holes. Apply waterproof glue to the joint to add a little strength and to seal the end grain. Next, drive 1¼-inch galvanized or stainless-steel screws into each joint.

Step 2: Install the legs

Crosscut the two rear legs, apply waterproof glue to the joint and fasten the legs using 1¼-inch screws driven into pilot holes.

Step 3: Add safety

Make a knife shield from two pieces of acrylic plastic cut to shape with a jigsaw. Drill and countersink three screw holes into each piece. Then screw one to the outer surface of the upper frame. Attach the other to the inner surface of the wood handle.

Step 4: Hide the screws

Fasten the cart’s wood handle to the upper frame with glue and deck screws. Drive the screws from the back so they’ll be hidden. Make sure that the square end of each handle is flush with the rear legs.

Step 5: Dowels make knife slots

To create five partitions to hang knives, start by drilling six holes through the upper frame and both acrylic panels, and into (but not through) the wood handle. Insert a dowel into each hole, then trim it flush.

Step 6: Rip the slats

Rip the slats from a cedar 2 x 4 and sand or plane them smooth. Shape their top edges with a router and a rounding-over bit. Using a pneumatic finish nailer, fasten the slats to the frame, spaced 5/8 inch apart.

Step 7: Build the top

Rip and crosscut the top parts and test fit the cutting board in it. Next, use glue and biscuits to assemble the top and clamp the assembly. Screw the cleats to the bottom of the assembly.

Step 8: Add Runners

With the cart upside down, screw on the runners, which will support the two stainless-steel pans.

Step 9: Fasten the backsplash

Rip and crosscut the back-splash from a cedar 1 x 8, then cut the gentle top curve using a jigsaw. Finally, fasten it by driving deck screws through pilot holes into the back of the top assembly.


The original plan can be found at


BBQ Tool Cabinet


  • A side frame pieces – (2) 5/4 X 6 X 28″
  • B bottom frame piece – (1) 5/4 X 4 3/4″ X 19″
  • C top frame piece – (1) 5/4 X 6 X 23″
  • D front strip – (1) 1″ X 23″ (cut from 5/4 X 6 cedar)
  • E back pieces – (4) (cut to fit from 1 x 6 T & G cedar)
  • F feet – (2) (see drawing) (cut from 5/4 X 6 cedar)
  • G door pieces – (2) 1 X 4 3/4″ X 23 7/8″
  • H door pieces – (2) 1 X 4 1/2″ X 23 7/8″
  • I door cleats – (4) 1 X 2″ X 8″
  • J door strip – (1) 1/4″ X 1″ X 23 7/8″

Pre-drill all screw locations with a #8 countersink bit and  sand the pieces before assembly.

  1. Referring to the diagram, cut the two side pieces,  the top and bottom pieces, and the feet to size. Glue and nail the front strip  to the top piece.
  2. Using a bench saw or router, cut a 1/2″ x 1/2″  rabbet along the back edges of the side, top and bottom pieces of the frame.  (Note that the rabbet on the side pieces only extends to the base of the bottom  frame piece.)
  3. Assemble the frame using 2-1/2″ deck screws and  exterior wood glue. Make all the pieces flush at the back and centre the top  piece on the sides of the frame. Using clamps will help in the assembly  process. Check to ensure that the frame is square. A temporary wood strap  fastened diagonally to the front of the frame will keep the unit square until  the back is installed.
  4. Cut and assemble 1 x 6 cedar boards for the back,  using 2″ galvanized finishing nails and glue. The temporary wood strap (step 3)  may now be removed.

Build the Doors

  1. Referring to the schematic diagram, cut the four  door pieces to size from 1 x 6 tongue and groove cedar.  Cut off the  tongue and groove from the inner and outer edges of each door.
  2. Fasten the two cleats to the back of each door,  using glue and 1″ #8 brass screws.
  3. With the cabinet on its back, install the two  doors, using two hinges per door.  Install  the cedar strip to the right side door, using  1″ finishing nails and glue.
  4. Install the barrel bolt, drilling a 1/4″ diameter  hole half an inch into the top frame piece to line up with the bolt.
  5. Attach the two wooden feet, using glue and 2″ deck  screws.  Initially insert one screw into each foot, set the cabinet on a  level surface, and using a level or carpenter’s square check to make sure the  unit is vertical.  Then secure with three more screws in each foot.
  6. Install the hooks and handle as shown.
  7. Finish with a natural UV resistant wood finish.

The original plan can be found at


BBQ Shelter



  • A side panels – posts – (4) 4 X 4 X 6′ 11 1/2″ (see dwg)
  • B side panels – rails – (4) 2 X 4 X 33″ (cut shorter if using rail connectors)
  • C side panels – fence boards – (6) 1 X 6 X 2′ 7″ (cut from 6′ fence boards)
  • D side panels – top rail & shelf – (2) 2 x 6 x 3′ 4″ (see dwg)
  • E back panel – frame – (5) 2 x 4 x 5′
  • F back panel – filler pieces – (8) two 1 x 6 x 5′ fence boards ripped to 1 1/4″ wide strips
  • G back panel – shutter boards – (12) 1 x 6 x 5′ (cut lengths to accommodate louvre brackets & rails)
  • H roof – ridge boards – (2) 2 X 6 X 3′ (see dwg)
  • I roof – rafters – (4) 2 X 4 X 3′ 4 1/2″ (see dwg)
  • J roof – shutter boards – (18) 1 X 6 X cut length to fit (6′ fence boards cut in half)
  • K roof – peak – (2) 2 x 4 x 1′ 8″ (see dwg)
  • L roof – cap – (2) 1 x 6 x 3′ (see dwg)

Fasten the louvre brackets and misc parts to the shutter boards and install the boards according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fasten the roof cap to the ridge boards and the rafters. Lift the roof structure onto the four posts. Set the rafters into the post notches. Fasten the rafters to each post with four 3 1/2″ deck screws.



Fasten 2 rafters to each ridge board using 3 1/2″ deck screws. Install louvre rails on the insides of the 4 rafters.

Screw or bolt the two ridge boards together. Fasten the two roof peak pieces “K” to the bottoms of the rafters.

Install the louvre rail sections to the insides of the frame (top and bottom) according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Screw vertical filler pieces “F” to the insides of the frame to fill in the gaps at the ends of the louvre rails. Fasten the louvre brackets and misc parts to the shutter boards and install the boards according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fasten the back panel to the side panel posts with 3 1/2″ deck screws.

Fasten the top rails “D” to the side panels with 3 1/2″ deck screws.

Assemble the back panel frame using 3″ deck screws.

In two posts, slope the notches in one direction and in the other two posts, slope the notches in the opposite direction.

Construct two side panel assemblies:

  • Fasten the rails to the posts using rail connectors.
  • Make certain that the post notches in
    each panel face inward.
  • Also, make certain that the post notches
    slope in the correct direction for the
    roof structure


The original plan can be found at


Backyard Service Cart

A practical service cart with fold-able shelves that is indispensable next to a barbecue.
This service cart is built with cedar, a naturally weather resistant wood that will last
for many years.


  • 10 pieces – 1×6 Cedar – 96″ long
  • 3 pieces – 1×2 Cedar – 96″ long
  • 1 1/2″ screws for treated wood
  • 3 – 36″ piano hinges

Cutting Plan:


1×6 Cedar:

  • A – Contour – 10 pieces – 6″ x 32″
  • B – Door – 4 pieces – 6″ x 28 3/4″
  • C – Top – 3 pieces – 6″ x 23 7/8″
  • D – Shelf – 6 pieces – 6″ x 17″
  • E – Shelf – 3 pieces – 6″ x 20 7/8″
  • F – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 20 7/8″
  • G – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 15 1/4″

1×2 Cedar:

  • H – Stiffener – 10 pieces – 2″ x 15 1/4″
  • I – Stiffener – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 7/8″
  • J – Stiffener – 4 pieces – 2″ x 9 3/8″
  • K – 45 degree support – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 15/16″

Piano Hinge:

  • L – Door hinge – 2 pieces – 28″ long
  • M – Shelf hinge – 1 piece – 15″ long


Step 1:

Assemble each of the two sides by juxtaposing three A boards, connected by three H stiffeners and a G stiffener, centered in relation to the three boards.

– Screw an H stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
          – Screw the G stiffener to the lower end. Note that this G part is made of a 1″ x 6″ part cut length ways 1″ x 3″.
          – Attach the last two H stiffeners on both sides at the centre of the assembly, 15 1/2″ from the lower end of the A boards.



Step 2:

Assemble the back by juxtaposing four A boards, connected by an I stiffener and an F stiffener centered in relation to the four boards.
– Screw the I stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
– Screw the F stiffener to the lower end.







Step 3:

Attach the back of the sideboard
to the sides. The back should rest on the sides, and not be caught between them.

Step 4:

Screw an I stiffener on the front
to the two H stiffener above
the side panels.

Step 5:

Screw an F stiffener on the front to two G stiffener of the side panels.



Step 6:

Lay the E boards of the interior shelf on the central H stiffeners, and screw.

Step 7:

Lay the C boards on the higher H stiffeners. The C boards should be centered in relation to the sides. Screw.




Step 8:

Assemble the two hinged shelves by using three D parts, connected
by H stiffeners attached 2″ from the ends of the D boards.

Step 9:

Screw the piano hinges M to the shelves, and then to the sideboard.

Step 10:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 11:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 12:

Screw the L piano hinges to the doors and then to the sides of the sideboard.

Step 13:

Support of the hinged shelves, when unfolded, is ensured by the K parts,
which ends are cut at 45 degrees, and are supported by the central external stiffeners.

Although the cedar is weather resistant, it is recommended to store the sideboard during the winter to give it a longer life.


The original plan can be found at https://www.rona.camade by Rona


Bar Cart

If your usual method of serving beverages at a barbecue involves a Styrofoam cooler and a bag of ice, it’s time to think about an upgrade. This mobile cart is tough enough to withstand sun, rain, and spills of your libation of choice. Two-wheeled construction lets you navigate stone patios or lumpy lawns with ease, and the top tray is removable for serving drinks or munchies. Best of all, the entire thing can be easily taken apart and stored flat—or, better yet, stashed in your trunk for tailgate parties this fall. What better project to celebrate the beginning of grilling season? This Old House senior technical editor Mark Powers shows how to put it together using cedar and outdoor-grade materials.

Step 1: Cut the Pieces

Use a miter saw and a stop block to make cuts of the same length quickly; refer to the illustration for dimensions. For the top tray, cut two 1×4 short sides and two 1×3 long sides. For the bottom tray, cut short and long sides from 1x3s. Cut 19 1×3 bottom boards (nine for the top tray, 10 for the bottom one). Rip a 1×2 in half and cut four ledges to support the bottom boards.

Cut 2x deck pickets to make crosspieces to support the removable top tray. Cut the cart’s handle from a 1-inch hardwood dowel. Cut off the corners of the top tray’s 1×4 short sides so that each edge is 2½ inches tall and even with the height of the long sides. Use a wood file to round over the cuts, then smooth the cut pieces with sandpaper and a block.

Step 2: Cut out the top tray’s handles

Use a paint can to trace a centered arc to make a handle on both 1×4 (short) tray sides. Make sure the cuts are at least ½ inch below the top edge and 1¾ inches above the bottom edge of the 1×4. Use a jigsaw to cut out the handles. Use a file to smooth the cut surfaces.

Step 3: Attach ledges to Long sides

Lay a long side on the flat, and use a 1×3 turned on edge to mark off space at the ends, where the short sides will be attached. Apply wood glue along one edge of the long side between the marks. Press a ledge into the glue, flush with the edge of the side piece. Use the nail gun to drive 1 3⁄8-inch nails a few inches apart through the ledge and into the long side. Repeat for the three remaining long sides.

Step 4: Make the tray frames

Apply glue to the cut edge of a short side and the end of a long side. Butt the pieces together to form a corner. Use the nail gun to drive a nail through the top and bottom of the long side and into the edge of the short side. Repeat for all joints for tray frames.

Step 5: Attach the boards

Apply glue to the ledges of the top tray. Lay nine 1×3 boards across the ledges, using a couple of screws as spacers between them to facilitate drainage. Use the nail gun to secure the ends of the boards to the ledges. Repeat for the bottom tray, using 10 boards.

Step 6: Cut and Mark the legs

Refer to the illustration for all dimensions. Use a miter saw to make parallel 45-degree cuts on four 1x2s to cut them to size. Cut ¼ inch off the long points at each end. Lay the A legs on the flat and side by side, with the cut-off long points flush at one end, as shown (the short points meet at the other end). Mark each leg’s surface as an “outside face.” Measure and mark hole and notch locations on both legs. Repeat for the B legs, but mark each leg’s surface as an “inside face.”

Turn all the legs on edge. Mark each one at the midpoint of the edge, between the marks, to designate the depth of the notch cuts.

Tip: When marking multiple pieces to be drilled or cut in the same spots, measure off the first one and use a combination square to transfer the marks to other pieces at the same time.

Step 7: Make the notches

Using a miter saw, make several kerf cuts between the notch marks on the outside faces of the A legs and the inside faces of the B legs. Stop at the midpoint you marked in step 7. Use a chisel to remove the wood.

Step 8: Drill holes and Recesses

Using a drill/driver, with bits sized to the holes shown on the illustration, drill holes through the legs, except for holes through the notches. On the outside faces of the A legs, drill countersinks for the cart handle’s screws. Flip the A legs over; on the inside faces, center a 1-inch paddle bit over the countersinks and make ¼-inch recesses for the handle. Smooth cuts with sandpaper.

Step 9: Assemble the sides

Fit together the notches on the A and B legs for one side of the cart. Drill a centered ¼-inch hole through both legs at the notched intersection. Slip the post end of a 5⁄8-inch screw post through the notch hole in the B leg. Lay the legs on a work surface, A leg facing up, and slip the screw end of the screw post into the notch hole in the A leg. Begin screwing it into the post by hand, then tighten with a screwdriver. Repeat for the second side of the cart.

Step 10: Drill pilot holes for the bottom tray

Refer to the illustration for hole locations. Measure and mark spots for pilot holes for the bottom tray; make sure they’re ½ inch above the tray’s bottom. Use a 3⁄8-inch bit to drill four holes through the tray’s long sides and ledges.

Tip: When drilling large pilot holes, begin with a smaller bit size to create an accurate path through the material, then step up to the larger one.

Step 11: Add insert nuts to the bottom tray

Using a flathead screwdriver, screw threaded brass insert nuts into the holes you drilled in step 11; these will accommodate the hex-head connector bolts you’ll use to attach the sides of the cart in step 14.

Step 12: Add insert nuts to the cross pieces

At the ends of each crosspiece, find the center by drawing two lines from corner to corner. Repeat steps 11 and 12 to drill holes and add insert nuts at these spots.

Step 13: Assemble the Cart Bottom

Stand the bottom tray on a long side and the crosspieces on their ends. Lay one set of the cart’s legs over these pieces, handle recess facing down. Line up the pilot holes with the insert nuts in the tray and crosspieces. Using a hex key, twist hex-head connector bolts through the holes and into the nuts. Fit one end of the handle into the recess, and use a 1½-inch stainless-steel screw to secure it to the leg through the countersink.

Step 14: Attach the second side

Flip the cart over so that the attached side sits on the work surface. Thread the axle through the 5⁄16-inch axle hole, which is on the A leg, beneath the bottom tray of the attached side. Fit the axle hole of the cart’s second side over the axle. Line up the pilot holes, and attach the second side of the cart as described in step 14.

Step 15: Attach Wheels to the Axle

Slip the wheels onto the axle. Insert cotter pins through the holes at the axle’s ends, and bend their legs around the axle to keep the wheels in place. Cover the ends of the axle with the axle caps (included).

Tip: If you can’t bend the legs of the cotter pins by hand, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to get the job done.

Step 16: Build the bottle rack

Refer to the illustration for dimensions. Cut two 1×4 long sides, two 1×3 short sides, and three 1×3 bottle spacers. Follow the process in step 4 to glue, butt, and nail the joints together. Start by attaching the edge of a long side to the end of a short side so that they’re flush at their top edges. Next, attach the edges of the spacers along the inside face of the long side, flush with its bottom edge and spaced at proper intervals (use bottles to size them). Attach the second long side to the end of the first short side and the edges of the spacers; it should be flush with the top of the short side and the bottoms of the spacers. Finish by attaching the edges of both long sides to the ends of the second short side, flush at their tops. Fit the rack onto either tray to hold bottles in place.

Tip: If you leave the cart unfinished, the cedar will weather to an attractive silvery gray—just like a beach house. If you’d rather preserve the color of the wood or bring out its red undertones, apply a clear toner, such as Penofin, annually.

The original plan is from


Barbeque Cart

This easy-to-build Barbecue Cart will solve both of those problems for you.  First, it comes complete with two spacious drawers, a condiment organizer, a utensil holder, a slide-out cutting board/shelf and plenty of space for all the cooking stuff you’ll be needing.  The laminate-covered top offers plenty of space for food preparation and staging . . . it’s conveniently portable . . . plus . . . it’s attractive enough to fit in, no matter where you may choose to store it between cook-outs.

We made our example from red oak with a white laminate-covered top and lower shelf.  If you’re planning to leave the table outside, be sure to choose a weatherproof wood like red cedar, redwood or cypress for the basic construction and use waterproof glue and brass screws to put everything together.

List of Materials:

Facing Assembly – Figure 1
A – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 8″
B – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 4 1/4″
C – Top Rail(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 17″
D – Bottom Rail(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17″

Base Assembly – Figure 2
E – Back(1) 3/4″ x 8″ x 20″
F – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 8″ x 14 1/2″
G – Legs(4) 2″ x 2″ x 38″

Web Frame Assembly – Figures 3 & 4
H – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 17″
I – Rails(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 15 3/4″
J – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 12 3/4″
K – Drawer Runners(2) 1/4″ x 1″ x 16″
L – Cleats(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16 7/8″

Shelf Support Assembly – Figures 6 & 7
M – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 22 1/4″
N – Back Brace(1) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 12 3/4″
O – Front Brace(1) 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 12 3/4″
P – Guides(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ x 10 3/4″
Q – Side-Out Shelf(1) 11/16″ x 10 3/8″ x 11 1/16″
R – Bottom-Hardboard(1) 1/8″ x 14 1/2″ x 11

Bottom Shelf Assembly – Figures 8 & 9
S – Front/Back Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20
T – Side Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
U – Top-Laminate(1) 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″

Drawer Assembly – Figure 5
V – Sides(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 16″
W – Front/Back(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 6 7/8″
X – Bottoms(2) 1/4″ x 6 3/4″ x 15 1/8″
Y – False Fronts(2) 3/8″ x 5″ x 8 1/2″

Top Assembly
Z – Top-Laminate(1) – 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″
M – Side Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20 1/4″
BB – Front/Back Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 25 3/4″

Accessory Add-ons
CC – Utensil Holder(1) 3/4″ x 2″ x 17 5/8″
DD – Condiment Hold(1) 3/4″ x 4″ x 18″

20 – 1 1/4″ x #8 Wood Screws
14 – 1 ¼” x #6 Wood Screws
4 – Wooden Screw Plugs – Optional
62 – 1” x 3/8” Dowel Pins
1 – 1” x ¼” Dowel Pin
2 – Drawer Pulls
1 – Sliding Shelf Pull
4 – Casters

Figure 1

Step 1:

First, cut all work pieces to size, following the dimensions outlined in the List of Materials

NOTE:  Be sure to allow all glued-up sub-assemblies to dry completely for 24 hours before putting them together with other sub-assemblies.

Step 2:

Using your drill press, drill (16) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces B, C and D, and glue the facing assembly together, using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins as shown in Figure 1.

Step 3:

Use your dado set-up or band-saw to cut a 10-7/16-inch wide by 1-9/16-inch deep notch in the left side of the base assembly (F) to accommodate the pull-out shelf/cutting board, which will be installed later. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 4:

Drill (50) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces A, E, F and G as shown in Figure 2.  Assemble all pieces together (including the facing sub-assembly you made in step #2, above) using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins.

Step 5:

Mount cleats (L) to the insides of the four legs (G) as shown in Figure 4, using 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins.  Position them 7-1/4” down from the tops of the legs (G) or sides (F).

Step 6: 

Cut 1/4-inch by 3/8-inch deep tongue & groove joints in the web frame stiles and rails (pieces H, I and J), as shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3

Step 7:

Glue-up the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3

Step 8:

Mount the web frame assembly to the top surfaces of the cleats you glued into position in step#5, above, using four 1 ¼” x #8 wood screws. See Figures 3 & 4.

Figure 4

Step 9: 

Cut the dado and rabbet joints in the drawer fronts and backs (parts W) and the drawer sides (parts V), as shown in Figure 5.

Step 10: 

Cut the 1-inch wide by 1/4-inch deep notches in the drawer fronts/backs (parts W) (see Figure 5).  These notches will slide on the drawer runners (parts K, Figure 3) when assembled.

Step 11: 

Using glue, assemble the drawer sides (V) front/back (W) and bottom (X), as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 5

Step 12: 

Using the drawer assemblies you made in step 11, above as guides, glue the drawer runners (K) to the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3.  Be sure the drawers slide smoothly in and out before leaving the runners to dry.

Step 13:

Using a router or belt sander, round-over the edges of the false drawer fronts (Y).

Step 14:

Glue the false drawer fronts (Y) to the fronts of the drawer assemblies (See Figure 5).

Step 15: 

Construct the shelf support assembly (M, N, O, P, R in Figure 6) using 1-1/4″ x #6 wood screws.

TIP:  Drill pilot holes for screws first to ease the assembly process. 

Figure 6

Step 16: 

Mount the completed shelf support assembly (Figure 6) to the base assembly (Figure 2), using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figures 6 & 7.

Step 17: 

Drill a 1/4-inch diameter by 1/2-inch deep hole, in a centered position, approximately 1/2-inch in from the back edge of the slide-out cutting board/shelf (part Q).  Be sure this hole is in the TOP surface of the board.  This protruding dowel will serve as a stop to keep shelf from pulling out completely.  We’ll glue this stop into position later.

Figure 7

Step 18: 

Cut the miters for the bottom shelf front, back and side rails (parts S & T).  See Figure 8.

Step 19: 

Assemble the bottom shelf with 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins and glue.  NOTE: Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (U) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 8.

Figure 8

Step 20: 

Attach the bottom shelf assembly you made in step 19 to the four legs (G) using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. We suggest that the shelf be positioned about 10-inch or so up from the bottoms of the legs.  It’s your choice. See Figure 9.

Figure 9

Step 21: 

Cut the miters for the front, back and side rails (AA & BB) of the Cart to assembly (See Figure 10). Next, cut out the utensil holder (CC) and condiment holder (DD) pieces. See Figure 10.

Step 22: 

Using glue and 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch dowels, put the top assembly together (Z, AA, BB). NOTE:  Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (Z) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 10.

Figure 10

Step 23: 

Mount the top assembly to the base assembly, using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 11.

Step 24: 

Mount the utensil holder (CC) to the side of the top assembly using two 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 10.

Step 25: 

Round the edges of the condiment holder using a belt sander or router and mount it to the laminate top with four 1-1/4-inch x #6 wood screws. See Figure 10.  If you prefer, counter-bore the screw holes and fill them with wooden plugs.

Step 26: 

Finish sand the entire Cart. Be careful not to scuff your laminate surfaces in the process.

Step 27: 

Apply a stain, oil or other finish of your choice.

Step 28: 

Install the slide-out cutting board/shelf (Q) and glue the 1/4-inch dowel pin into position as a stop.

Step 29: 

Mount the pulls of your choice on the drawers and slide-out shelf.

Step 30: 

Mount the casters

Figure 11


The original plan can be found at

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