- (1) 2x4x8’ Lumber
- (4) 2x3x8’ Lumber
- (5) 1x2x8’ Lumber
- White Paint
- Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 – 2×4 @ 75” long (horizontal support on very bottom)
- 2 – 2×3 @ 75” long (top and bottom horizontal of headboard)
- 2 – 2×3 @ 55” long (Side pieces)
- 10 – 1×2 @ 9” long (horizontal part of “window”)
- 10 – 1×2 @ 18 ½” long (vertical part of “window”)
- 10 – 1×2 @ 6” long (for top and bottom of “window”)
- 6 – 1×2 @ 5” long (in between windows)
Lay out lumber in shape of the headboard as a dry fit. Put the good sides of the lumber (the sides you want to show) face down. Mark the back sides so you know which side to drill the pocket hole into.
Drill pocket holes using jig.
Screw headboard together. This is where math and a right angle are handy and sand.
Prime. We used FastPrime2. It was in our basement. It works. I applied it with a brush and a mini-roller. It took FOREVER because there are A LOT of corners. It won’t look pretty after the prime…don’t get discouraged. 2 coats of paint. We used Olympic Zero VOC Premium white, semi-gloss. This paint is great. It doesn’t smell, is good for the environment, covers well…and did I mention it doesn’t smell. Attach to your bed frame using bolts, nuts, and washers (we used some we dug up in our basement) that are long enough to go through the wood and attach to your bed frame.
The original plan can be found at https://decorandthedog.net/decorandthedog/2011/01/headboard-how-to.html