Tag: bedroom

Rustic Headboard

Materials:

Board SizeKingCalifornia KingQueenFullTwin
1x22 @ 8'2 @ 8'2 @ 8'2 @ 8'2 @ 8'
1x37 @ 8'7 @ 8'7 @ 8'7 @ 8'7 @ 8'
1x49 @ 8'9 @ 8'4 @ 10'
1 @ 6'		4 @ 10'
1 @ 6'		4 @ 8'
1 @ 4'
1x63 @ 8'3 @ 8'3 @ 6'1 @ 10'
1 @ 6'		1 @ 12'
2x41 @ 8'1 @ 8'1 @ 8'1 @ 8'1 @ 8'

Cut List:

 KingCalifornia KingQueenFullTwin
Dimensions81 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall77 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall65 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall49 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall44 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall
Leg Pieces6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long
Inside leg Piece2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long
Smaller Panel Pieces5 - 1x4 cut at 76" long5 - 1x4 cut at 72" long5 - 1x4 cut at 60" long5 - 1x4 cut at 54" long5 - 1x4 cut at 39" long
Larger Panel Pieces3 - 1x6 cut at 76" long3 - 1x6 cut at 72" long3 - 1x6 cut at 60" long3 - 1x6 cut at 54" long3 - 1x6 cut at 39" long
Panel Trim, Front and Back4 -1x4 cut at 74" long4 - 1x4 cut at 70" long4 - 1x4 cut at 58" long4 - 1x4 cut at 52" long4 - 1x4 cut at 37" long
Top Trim1 - 1x3 cut at 80 1/2" long1 - 1x3 cut at 76 1/2" long1 - 1x3 cut at 64 1/2" long1 - 1x3 cut at 48 1/2" long1 - 1x3 cut at 43 1/2" long
Top1 - 2x4 cut at 81 1/2" long1 - 2x4 cut at 77 1/2" long1 - 2x4 cut at 65 1/2" long1 - 2x4 cut at 49 1/2" long1 - 2x4 cut at 44 1/2" long

Step 1: Assemble front leg

Apply glue to one side of a 1×2 inside leg piece. Lay the 1×2, glue side down, on top of a 1×3 leg piece, lining up outside edge and ends. Nail the 1×2 to the 1×3 every 6-8 inches with 1-1/4 inch nails. Build two of these legs as illustrated above. Tip: As you nail down boards, adjust boards to keep outside edges flush.

Step 2: Attach panel boards

Beginning at the top of the headboard, apply glue to ends of a 1×4 panel board. Lay 1×4 panel board on top of legs, and nail down with 1-1/4 inch nails. Use two nails on each end, nailing both sides of panel boards to the legs as illustrated above. Nail remaining panel boards to the legs, using glue and 1-1/4 inch nails, referencing the pattern above for alternating 1x4s and 1x6s. Tip: For increased rustic character, chisel or distress panel boards prior to nailing to the legs, focusing on edges to enhance the planked headboard look.

Step 3: Attach leg pieces

Apply glue to one side of two 1×3 leg pieces and place on headboard legs as shown in illustration. Nail every six to eight inches using 2-inch nails, making sure to keep top and outside edges flush.

Step 4: Attach panel trim

Trim the headboard tops and bottoms by applying glue to 1×4 panel trim boards and nailing panel trim boards to the tops and bottoms of both sides of headboard. Use 1-1/4 inch nails and keep outside edges flush.

Step 5: Attach outside trim

With headboard facedown (the front of the headboard will have minimal nails showing), apply glue then nail remaining two leg pieces to the sides of legs. Keep the front edge flush, but the back may have a slight overhang. Use 2-inch nails every 6-8 inches.

Step 6: Attach top trim

Apply glue to the top of the headboard. Line top trim piece up with outer leg piece and nail down, nailing every six to eight inches. Keep front and outside edges flush.

Step 7: Attach top of headboard

Apply glue to the top of the headboard. Overhang or elevate the headboard so that you can center the 2×4 top piece on the headboard with a 1/2-inch overhang on all sides. Nail every six to eight inches with 2-inch nails.

Tip: For a king-size headboard, scrap wood can be cut and nailed perpendicular to the planks to keep planks in place.

Step 8: Finish headboard

Fill nail holes with wood filler. Let filler dry then sand headboard with 80-grit sandpaper. Fill nail holes again — wood filler can shrink when dry. Sand again, this time with 120-grit sandpaper. Finally, sand with 150-grit sandpaper.

Vacuum headboard with a soft-bristled brush attachment to remove sanding residue then wipe the surface with a damp washcloth. In a well-ventilated area, lightly coat the headboard with spray-on primer, following instructions on spray can. Let dry completely.

Brush on paint, working in the direction of wood grain. Apply two coats, allowing ample time for each coat to fully dry. To distress, rough up edges with sandpaper. Chisel between the plank boards to expose the cracks between the panel boards. Apply glaze to distressed areas and wipe off until desired look is achieved. Spray with clear coat to seal your headboard.

Step 9: Attach to bed frame

Follow the directions on your bed frame to attach headboard to the bed frame.

Step 10: (Option) Stain headboard

The beauty of the solid wood used to build this headboard can be preserved by choosing a stained finish. This headboard was finished with two coats of a dark walnut oil-based stain, topped with satin oil-based polyurethane.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/make-and-decorate/decorating/how-to-build-a-rustic-wood-headboard
 
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Simple Headboard


Materials:

  • 2 – 1″ x 6″ x 96″ board
  • 1 – 1″ x 3″ x 96″ board
  • 12 – 1 1/4″ screws
  • wood glue
  • sandpaper
  • stain/top coat
  • remnant carpet or felt

Cut List:

  • (4) 1×6 @ 37 1/2″ long
  • (2) 1×3 @ 30″ long
  • (2) 1×3 @ 12″ long

Cut the 1×6’s into 4 pieces that are 37 1/2″ long.  Cut the 1×3 into 2 pieces that are 30″ long and 2 that are 12″ long.  On the 30″ pieces drill pilot holes for screws to attach each of the 37 1/2″ boards.  Apply a little wood glue and attach the 30″ pieces with 1 1/4″ screws to the 1×6’s about 4″ in from each side.  Leave a small gap between planks for a more defined plank look.

Drill pilot holes about 3/8″ from the ends of the 12″ pieces.  Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to attach the 12″ pieces to the ends of the 30″ pieces.  The 12″ pieces (feet) slide between the mattress and box spring to stand the headboard up.

Attach a small remnant of carpet or felt with glue/staples near the top of the 30″ pieces to avoid marring the wall.

The original plan can be found at http://www.hertoolbelt.com/simple-headboard-dusty-theme-room/

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Faux Shiplap Headboard

Several months ago I was watching an episode of “Fixer Upper” and caught glimpse of a custom-built shiplap headboard. Since then, I haven’t been able to get the idea out of my head. I don’t have a cool old house with shiplap walls that I can tear down, so I came up with my own solution for a DIY headboard made of faux shiplap— all using materials all found at my local Home Depot store.

Materials:

  • (1) 8 ft.- 2 x 12
  • (3) 8 ft.- 2 x 4
  • (1) 4 x 4 ft. x 3/8 in. sheet of plywood or MDF
  • (1) Timeline Wood Distress—ed Grey Wood Panels – 6 pack
  • (3) 21 in. Galvanized metal strap
  • (3) 5 in. Galvanized tie plate
  • 2½ in. Pocket hole screws
  • 5/8 in. Wood screws
  • 7/8 in. Wood screws

 

With this DIY headboard project, you can create any kind of arch you’d like (radius, elliptical, cathedral, etc.).

You can create the round shape using a pencil on a string, compass, or even tracing a large round object. Whatever arch shape you choose, make sure the ends are parallel.

Step 1:  Create A Template

First, I vertically taped together sheets of 8½ x 11 in. paper. Then I cut the resulting strip of paper to 38 in. in length (the width of the eventual headboard). I folded the sheet in half and sketch half of an arch, 3½ in. wide. I then cut out my half-arch, and opened the paper to reveal the full shape.

Step 2: Cut the shape of the template

I aligned the outside edge perpendicular to the long sides of my 2 x 12. Using a pencil, I traced the arched shape onto the wood.

Next, I cut along the line using a jig saw with a wood blade.

Step 3: Sand the edges of the Arch

I took my time to sand the cut edges really well, helping to remove any blade marks and to smooth the arch’s shape.

Step 4: Drill the pocket holes

Using a circular saw, I cut two 2 x 4’s, 52 in. in length and one 38 in. in length. I drilled two, 1½-in.-deep pocket holes on either end of the shorter board, and on both ends of the arch.

Step 5: Attach sides to the arch

Next, I laid my 52-in. 2 x 4’s on the ground, face down. I aligned the end of the arch with the top of each 2 x 4 and connected the two with wood glue and 2½ in. pocket hole screws.

Step 6: Attach bracing board

I measured 20 in. from the bottom of each leg and made a pencil mark. I placed the 38 in. board perpendicular between the legs, face down, and lined up the bottom of the board with both pencil marks. I connected the board to the legs with more wood glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 7: Paint the plywood

I knew I would be able to see a small amount of plywood between the wood slats of the faux shiplap, so I needed to make sure the color of the plywood matched the pre-finished slats. I used a roller to paint one side of the plywood a medium grey.

Step 8: Attach the faux shiplap slats

Once the paint had dried for several hours, I started attaching the faux shiplap slats.

I started on one edge of the plywood and lined up the slats parallel to each other. I used a couple pieces of scrap wood ¼ in. thick as spacers between each slat. Quarter inch tile spacers would work well, too.

To give my plywood more rigidity, I ran the boards in the opposite direction of the wood grain on the plywood. I applied a healthy “squiggle” of construction adhesive to the back of each slat and pressed it firmly into place.

I had a few edges that popped up and didn’t want to stay put. So, I placed a couple dumbbells on those areas to hold them down and let the adhesive dry fully.

Step 9: Lay the headboard frame on the faux shiplap strips

After the construction adhesive had several hours to dry, I laid the headboard frame, face up, on top of the panel. I made sure that the slats ran horizontally.

Step 10: Trace the inside of the frame

With a pencil, I traced along the inside of the frame. If you are comfortable using a router, skip to Step 11b. If not, as smoothly as possible, cut out the traced shape from the panel using a jig saw.

Step 11a: Secure the panel to the headboard arch

Flip the frame face down. Lay the panel, face down, in the center. Use scrap wood to raise the panel until the back of the plywood is flush with the back of the frame. Center your three 21 in. metal straps along the seams and drive 5/8 in. screws, securing the frame and plywood panel together. Screw in your three 5 in. tie plates spaced evenly over the arch to secure the plywood panel.

Step 11b: (Router option) Cut a rabbet along edge of headboard arch

I chose to use my router with a ½ in. rabbetting bit and ditched the metal straps all together. Instead of cutting the panel along the traced line, I cut ½ in. outside the traced shape. Then, I ran my router along the inside edge on the back of the frame, cutting a ½ in. wide, ¾ in. deep rabbet. Remember, when removing a large amount of material like this with a router, its best to start shallow, make multiple passes, and gradually cut deeper till you reach your desired depth.

Step 12: Stain and seal the headboard frame

Before attaching the panel, I took time to stain and finish the headboard frame. I was able to match the pre-finished wood slats pretty well by using a water-based grey stain, followed by whitewash of a cream colored acrylic paint. I also sealed the frame with three coats of a clear lacquer in a satin finish, to give the wood extra durability.

Step 13: Attach the faux shiplap to the headboard frame

Once everything was dry, I attached the panel to the frame. I dropped the panel into place and secured it with 7/8 in. wood screws, spaced about every 6 in. apart, along the perimeter of the panel. To avoid splitting, I pre-drilled pilot holes before driving the screws.

The original plan can be found at http://blog.homedepot.com/diy-headboard-faux-shiplap/ target=”_blank” and was created by Pneumatic Addict

 
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Barn Door Headboard

Dimensions:

Materials:

  • 8 1×4, 8’ Long
  • 2 1x2s, 8’ Length
  • 3 1×3, 8’ Length
  • 1 1/4” Finish Nails
  • 2” Finish Na

Cut List:

  • 18- 1×4 @ 31” Panel Boards
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 49 1/2 “ Side Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 49 1/2” Front Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 38 1/2” Back Supports
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 38 1/2” Front Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 @ 26” Center Trim
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 44” Top Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 @ 45” Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 30” Ends cut at 30 degrees off square, parallel, see last step

Step 1:

Headboard Panel

Start by lining all the 1×4 panel boards up, rotating the grain so the bark side is up, then down. Adjust for square. Then if you have a nailer, glue and nail the top and bottom trim in place. Otherwise, screw from the back to hide your screw holes. Shown above back side up, so you would just screw through the trim into the back side of the panel boards.

Step 2:

Legs

Now screw the legs on with glue and 2″ screws.

Step 3:

Leg Fronts

Nailer would be handy here, but if you don’t have one, you can screw the leg fronts to the legs. Use glue and 2″ screws or nails.

Step 4:

Front Trim

I highly recommend measuring and cutting these to fit. Nails would hide best, and even if you don’t have a nailer, if you plan to stain, I suggest using a hammer and finish nails to hide any holes. If you plan to paint, go ahead with the screws and glue.

Step 5:

Center

Mark the center and use 1 1/4″ fasteners and glue to attach.

Step 6:

Top Trim

Now add the top trim with screws or nails and glue. Center on the top.

Step 7:

Header

Use finish nails and glue to attach the top to the top trim. Center on the top.

Step 8:

Cross Supports

Start by cutting 2 1x4s 36 3/4″ long, with both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, parallel to each other. Then on the top end, measure in 2″ and mark a line square with the top edge (see above diagram). Cut this line. Attach the cross supports to the headboard with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue, nailing into all of the panel boards.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/2010/11/brookstone-queen-headboard
 
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