cabinet – Page 2 – Woodworkers Resource

Bathroom Vanity

Supplies:

(1) 1x2x6
(1) 1x3x8
(1) 5/4x2x6
(2) 5/4x3x8
Molding 8′
1/2” pin nails
1/4” plywood 24”x24”
1/2” plywood 24”x24” (optional)
3/4” plywood 24”x48”
1-1/4” wood screws
1-1/4″ pocket screws
1-1/2″ pocket screws
(2) Cabinet hinges
Elmer’s Wood Glue Max
Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain – Dark Walnut
Semi-Gloss Polyurethane

Step 1:

Cut the Legs. Cut 4 pieces of 5/4×3 to 27-1/4″. On one end, measure up 2″ and in 2″. Connect the marks with a line. Cut the angle using a circular saw and crosscut jig. Repeat for the other legs.

Step 2:

Cut the Side Rails. Cut 4 pieces of 5/4×3 to 10-3/4″ and drill pocket holes in each end.

Step 3:

Cut the Bottom Side Rails. Cut 2 pieces of 5/4×2 to 10-3/4″ and drill a pocket hole in each end.

Step 4:

Cut the Side Panels. Cut 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood to 10-3/4″ x 9″ and drill pocket holes around the edges.

Note: I made my panels a little differently. I made 1/4″ book-matched panels and glued those panels to a pieces of 1/2″ plywood for a total of 3/4″.

Step 5:

Assemble the Side. Layout 2 legs (make sure the angles face inward), the top rail, middle rail and bottom rail. The side panel sets in 1/4″ from the face of the legs. To help position the panel, I placed some scrap pieces of 1/4″ MDF on my workbench, then placed the panel on top. My book-matched panels had cathedral grain and I made sure this was pointing towards the top of the vanity. (Cathedral grain refers to the grain pattern of the wood. Think of the grain pattern like a mountain. You want the point of the mountain facing towards the top of the piece and the wide part of the mountain facing towards the bottom of the piece.)

To keep the proper spacing of the bottom rail I cut two pieces of scrap wood to 9″ and placed between the bottom and middle rail.

Once everything is laid out, apply glue to the ends of the rails, clamp the assembly and attach using 1-1/2″ pocket screws. Do not attach the panel at this point.

Flip the assembly over and be sure the panel sets in 1/4″ from the face of the legs. Adjust if necessary. Clamp the panel in position, flip the assembly over and attach the panel with 1″ pocket screws. Repeat for the other side.

Step 6:

Cut 5 pieces of 1×2 to 15-1/2″ and drill a pocket hole in each end.

Step 7:

Cut 5 pieces of 1×3 to 15-1/2″ and drill a pocket holes in each end.

Step 8:

Cut the Bottom. Cut 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood to 15-1/2″ x 15″ and drill pocket holes around the edges.

Step 9:

Assemble the Carcass. Apply glue to a 1×3 (from Step 7) and place at the top of the front legs. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Apply glue to a 1×2 (from Step 6) and place 11-3/4″ below the top brace. I cut a few pieces of scrap wood to 11-3/4″ to help position this piece. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Slide the bottom in position. Make sure the bottom is flush with the bottom of the side rails and front rail. Clamp and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Apply glue to a 1×2 (from Step 6), place at the top of the back legs and attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

To help install the back slat, I cut a few pieces of scrap to 9″ and placed below the bottom. The back of the slat (from Step 7) is placed flush against the back legs. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Place a 1×2 (from Step 6) on top of the back slat. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

From the bottom, drill a countersink hole and attach using a 1-1/4″ wood screw.

The remaining 3 slats (1×3’s from Step 7) are placed so that the tops of the slats are flush with the top of the bottom rails and spaced 13/16″ apart. To help with the spacing I cut a few pieces of 3/4″ scrap wood and attached pennies to the scrap wood with painter’s tape. The thickness of the wood plus the penny equals about 13/16″.

Attach the slats using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Make the Front Slat Assembly. Apply glue to the edge of a 1×2 (from Step 6) and attach to a 1×2 (from Step 6). To help position the front slat assembly, I cut a few pieces of scrap to 9″ and placed below the bottom. Place at the front slat assembly below the scrap wood and set in 1/4″. Attach using 1-1/4″ pocket screws.

Cut 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 1-1/2″ x 3/4″. Apply glue and place under the front slat assembly. This piece will keep the front assembly from rocking.

Step 10:

Make the Faux Drawers. Cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to 15-1/4″ x 11-1/2″.

Make the “drawer fronts” from 2 pieces of 1/4″ plywood to 15-1/4″ x 5-11/16″.

Note: I used leftover pieces of the book-matched side panels to make my drawer fronts. Apply glue to the drawer fronts, place on the door panel (leaving a gap between the drawer fronts) and clamp until dry.

Wrap the drawer fronts with molding. Miter the molding, apply glue and tack in place with 1/2″ pin nails.

Step 11:

Install the Hinges. Follow the manufacturer instructions for installing the hinges.

Step 12:

Finish the Vanity. Sand, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, apply a tea stain, apply a dark walnut stain and then three coats of polyurethane.

The original plan can be found at https://sawsonskates.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Step 1:

Begin by cutting the angle decoration to the bottom of all eight legs pieces, see detail illustration. Next assemble the four legs by drilling for 1-1/4” pockets screws and attaching the leg pieces with pocket screws and wood glue as shown. Make sure the outside-edges, top and bottom are all flush. Pay special attention to the orientation of the angled bottoms and the seam of the corner joint, you will construct 2 pairs of each orientation.

Step 2:

Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws in the side rails and attach to a pair of legs as shown with pocket screws and wood glue. Again, notice the orientation of the corners. This vanity is constructed so that the seam will not be visible from the front. Repeat for the other pair of legs.

Step 3:

Now you will bring the sides together with the front and back rails. Drill for 1-1/4” pocket screws and attach as shown.

Step 4:

The strength of this modest vanity will be completed by attaching the side plywood panels. Make sure the panels are flush with the top rails and attach with 3/4” brad nails and wood glue.

Step 5:

Flip the assembly upside down to attach the bottom. The side panels were cut to length so that the bottom rests directly on their bottom edge and, after it is attached, the bottom will sit 1/4” below the edge of the front and back bottom rails. Make sure to set your Kreg jig and drill bit collar for 1/2” thick material. Drill holes and attach with 1” pocket screws and wood glue; making sure the bottom rests snug with the bottom of the side panels.

Step 6:

Next you will attach the upper and lower trim. It is always best to cut the trim material to length as you go. Simply hold up a piece, mark for length and cut. The trim will only wrap around the sides and front and front of the vanity. It will be flush with the back and flush with the top and bottom rails. Attach with 3/4” brad nails and wood glue.

Step 7:

The door assembly is anothe piece that should be cut to fi t. We constructed ours out of 1×8 material. You will want the door to have about a 1/16” all the way around it. The outer two pieces are made at full width. The middle piece will have to ripped down on your table saw, for ours it came out to be 3-1/8” wide. After you have the middle piece ripped down then drill for 1-14” pocket screws and attach with pocket screws and wood glue.

Step 8:

To attach the door we set the hinges 5” from the top and bottom as shown. Attach the hinges to the door first. Then set the door in place with shims to hold it 1/16” off the bottom edge of the door opening and 1/16” in from either side. Mark for the hinge holes and drill pilot holes. Take your time and make sure your hinges are attached as vertically plum as possible.

Step 9:

Finally you are ready to attach the sink basin. Make sure you carefully read installation material that came with your sink first. When you are ready place a bead of silicone adhesive around the top of your vanity base and carefully the sink in place. You may want to have someone help you with this step. The vanity should sit flush on back and about 1/2” all around.

The original plan can be found at https://www.shanty-2-chic.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

(4) 3×3 x 36″ poplar legs
(1) 3/4″ project panel 2′ x 4′
(2) 2×2 x 8 Lumber
(1) 2×6 x 8′ Lumber
(1) 1×8 x 8′ Lumber
(2) 1×4 x 8′ Lumber
(3) 1×2 x 8′ Lumber
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 8′ moulding
2 inset hinges
2 magnetic clasps
4 knobs

Cut List:

(4) 3×3 @ 35″
(2) 2×2 @ 29″
(1) 2×2 @ 27 1/2″
(1) 2×6 @ 29″
(4) 2×2 @ 18″
(1) 1×8 @ 27 1/2″
(1) 1×8 @ 27 1/4″
(2) 3/4″ x 15 1/2″ x 18″ plywood
(2) 1×2 @ 17″
(3) 1×2 @ 29″
(1) 1×2 @ 27 1/2″
(4) 1×2 @ 18″
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 7″ mitered at 45
(4) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 27 1/4″ mitered at 45
(2) 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ @ 7 1/4″ mitered at 45

Step 1:

Build the side frame by attaching the 2×2 @ 18″ to the 3x3s with 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue! Top 2×2 is flush with the tops of the 3x3s but set back 1/2″ and the second 2×2 is placed at 15 1/2″ from the bottom of the top 2×2 and set back 1/2″! Whichever way you place your pocket holes will determine the inside of the side!

Step 2:

Attach the 1×2 @ 18″ flush with the 3x3s to the back. Attach with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Make sure pocket holes are facing the “inside”.

Step 3:

Place another 1×2 @ 18″ 4″ up from the bottom of the 3x3s and set back 1/2″ from the front. This will be attached with the same 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue!

Step 4:

Place your plywood piece cut at 18 x 15 1/2″ in the square space created by your frame! This is attached with 3/4″ pocket holes all around the edges and 1 1/4″ screws and glue! It should be flush with your 2x2s!

Step 5:

After building the sides, using the 2×6 @ 29″ and the 2×2@ 29″ attach both sides together! Using 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both and 2 1/2″ screws and glue on both! The 2×6 is going to be flush with the top and what will be the back and the 2×2 is flush with the top and what will be the front!

Step 6:

Attach the 2 – 1×2 @ 17″ to the 3x3s…they are glued and attached using countersunk screws! To do this you will need a 1/2″ countersink drill bit, drill the 1x2s in each place you would like to place a screw and then when you screw the screw in, it will sit down inside a little hole that you can then putty over and no one will ever know it was there! Three screws on each 1×2 should be fine. The 1x2s are set back 1/2″!

Step 7:

Attach the 1×2 @ 27 1/2″ using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. This should be 7 1/4″ down from the bottom of the 2×2 across the top. Attach the 2×2 @ 27 1/2″ flush with the bottom of the 1x2s that run along the 3x3s. Use 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ screws and glue to attach.

Step 8:

Attach the 1×2 @ 29″ below the 2×2 flush to the back of the 3x3s though. Using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach.

Step 9:

Take the 1×8 @ 27 1/2″ and cut your 1/4″ molding leaving a 1/8″ gap around all sides of Mitering the corners at 45 degrees off square, make sure and measure your board here. Glue and staple this to the front of the 1×8… on the back you will drill normal 3/4″ pocket holes and attach using 1 1/4″ screws and glue… if you do not want the bottom drawer to flip down, you can make two of this same size only bring the molding all the way to the top and bottom edges since room has already been left in this bottom space for it to move… if you want the flip down door continue to step 10.

Step 10:

Take the 1×8 @ 27 1/4″ and place 1/4″ molding all the way to the edges of the board, mitered at 45 degrees off square. Make sure and measure your board. This board will be attached with hinges and magnetic claps… later on in the instructions. I sanded and stained it before attaching.

Step 11:

Attach the 2 – 1×2 @ 29″ up four inches from the bottom. Using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue. The front 1×2 will be set back 1/2″ and the back 1×2 will be flush with the back.

Step 12:

Attach the 2×2 @ 29″ across the back… you may want to measure your plumbing before placing this board as it can easily be moved up or down right now but not once it’s glued. It is flush with the back. Using 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 13:

The front and back 1x4s @ 31 1/2″ along the bottom where they meet the 3x3s will need to be cut, taking a jigsaw you can quickly make these cuts. The measurements here are for the back 1x4s are all cut normal @ 31 1/2″. And the front 1x4s is cut at 1 1/4″ in and 1 1/4″ in. Attach using 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 14:

Attach the 2×2 @ 27 1/2″ to the other 2×2 that is along the bottom of the ‘drawers’… just using 1 1/2″ pocket holes drilled toward the other 2×2 (not on the ends but along the whole 2×2 as if you were planking them together) and connecting it to the other 2×2 with 2 1/2″ screws and glue. Now using the hinges and magnetic clasps you can finish the vanity. After sanding and staining you’re done.

The original plan can be found at http://builditcraftitloveit.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Shopping List:

(1) – 8′ length of 1×3 poplar
(4) – 35.5″ x 3″ Marshall Island Legs by Osborne Wood in Soft Maple
(1) – 12′ length of 1×2 poplar
3/4″ ply, 4′ x 8′ sheet Purebond birch plywood
1/2″ plywood, 2′ x 4′ sheet Purebond birch plywood
220 grit sandpaper
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ nails
4 euro style inset hinges
2 knobs
Stain and top coat of choice

Cut List:

(4) – 35.5″ Marshall Island Legs @ 32 3/8″ (3 1/8″ off the top)
(2) – 3/4″ plywood @ 12 1/2″ x 17 1/8″ (sides)
(1) – 3/4″ plywood @ 18 1/2″ x 10″ (back)
(2) – 3/4″ plywood @ 16 1/2″ x 21″ + notches cut out of each corner – 1 1/4″ x 2″
(2) – 1/2″ plywood @ 6 1/8″ x 9 3/8″
(2) – 1×2 @ 12 1/2″ (sides of bottom shelf frame)
(2) – 1×2 @ 18 1/2″ (front and back shelf frame)
(4) – 1×2 @ 9 1/8″ (cabinet door frame – top)
(4) – 1×2 @ 9 3/8″ (cabinet door frame – sides)
(2) – 1×3 @ 18 1/2″ (front frame)
(4) – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (side trim)

Step 1:

Drill 3/4″ pocket holes on sides of 3/4″ plywood (the long sides of the 17 1/8″ x 12 1/2″ pieces) and 1x2s. Attach to 3/4″ plywood to legs, so the top is flush and there is a 1 1/2″ space from the inner corner of the legs to the plywood, using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. This will leave a 3/4″ ‘inset’ on the ‘outside’, which will allow the trim to be attached and flush at a later step. Attach the 1×2 to the bottom of legs, with the same inset.

Step 2:

Drill 2, 3/4″ pocket holes on either end of the 1x2s for the front and back of the bottom shelf frame. Drill holes of the same size for the 1x3s of the front cabinet door frame, and the back 3/4″ plywood piece. Attach with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Repeat process for the other side.

Step 3:

Notch out the base of the cabinet and the bottom shelf using the above guideline. Note that you will likely have to dry fit a few times and make minor adjustments so the shelf will fit before making 3/4″ pocket holes and attaching with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Allow a small inset (1/16″ or less) from the top of the shelf (3/4″ ply) to the edge of the frame (1×2) of the bottom shelf, so that when you attach the screws, it doesn’t go through all the way. Small gaps can be filled with wood filler and sanded smooth.

Step 4:

To build the shaker-style doors, simply drill 2, 1/2″ pocket holes along all four sides of the 1/2 plywood. Then drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the 9 3/8″ long 1x2s. Using 1″ pocket hole screws, attach into the plywood to the 1x2s on either side, allowing a 1/4″ inset on the front. The back should be flush.

Turn the vanity upside down when attaching the shelves and attach the cabinet base one first, then the lower shelf.

Step 5:

Attach the top pieces of the doors, first screwing in the side 1x2s to the top and bottom 1x2s with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Then screw the plywood into the top and bottom 1x2s.

Step 6:

Hang the doors in the opening of the vanity, allowing 1/16″ gap on the top bottom and either side where the hinges will attach. Attach the euro style inset hinge by marking, pre-drilling, and screwing into place on both the legs and the doors. Doors should be touching each other so they can stay closed.

Step 7:

Mark, pre-drill, and attach knobs.

Step 8:

Attach side trim pieces (to both sides of the vanity) so both the bottom and top are flush, using 1 1/4″ nails and a nail gun.

Step 9:

Fill nail holes and gaps with wood filler, let dry, and sand entire vanity smooth with 22o grit sandpaper.

Step 10:

Paint or stain with desired color and apply a durable top coat that is water-resistent, like an oil-based poly.

The original plan can be found at http://www.shadesofblueinteriors.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

A– 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 17 1/2″ x 32″ long SIDES
B– 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 17 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ long BOTTOM
C– 2 pieces of 1×6 lumber – 24″ long FACE
D– 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick)- 2 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 24″ long 2xTRIMS
E– 3 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 22 1/2″ long SUPPORTS
F– 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 20 3/4″ x 11 7/8″ long DOORS
G– 4 pieces of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick) – 17 3/4″ long, 4 pieces – 11 7/7″ long TRIMS

Step 1: Building the vanity frame

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frame for the vanity. As you can easily notice in the diagram, we recommend you to build the components out of 3/4″ plywood. Take accurate measurements and smooth the cut edges with fine-grit sandpaper.

Drill pocket holes at both ends of the bottom component and lock it to the sides by using 1 1/4″ screws and waterproof glue. Make sure the corners are right-angled and the side components vertical.

Step 2: Fitting the supports

Continue the project by fitting the 1×3 supports to the front and to the back of the vanity. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the supports, make sure the corners are square and secure them to the sides by using 1 1/4″ galvanized screws. Work with attention and leave no gaps between the components.

Step 3: Attaching the front faces

Next, fit the 1×6 components to the front face of the vanity, as described in the diagram. Drill pilot holes and insert 1 1/4″ screws to lock the components into place tightly. Make sure the edges are flush and add glue to the joints to get a professional result and a durable bond.

Step 4: Fitting the trims

If you want to enhance the look of the bathroom vanity, we recommend you to fit 1×2 trims (1/4″ thick) trims to the exterior of the top and bottom supports. Cut the trims at the right size and lock them to the supports by using waterproof glue and alternatively finishing nails.

Step 5: Building the doors

Building the doors for the bathroom vanity is complex, but make sure you take accurate measurements and you lock the components together. Build the door panels out of 3/4″ plywood and the trims out of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick).

Clamp the trims to the door panels after applying glue to the joints. Leave no gaps between the components and leave the glue to dry out for several hours. Smooth the edges with sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.

Step 6: Fitting the doors

Fit the doors to the structure, making sure they open properly and there is a 1/8″ gap around them, Attach the handles to the doors and make sure the doors open and close easily. Use professional hinges to get a durable result.

Step 7: Finishing

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the vanity in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/

[email_link]

Bathroom Vanity

Note: Before constructing this vanity, make sure it will fit around the plumbing lines and pipe without interference! We had to cut a notch in the divider to allow for the cold water line which therefore shortened the upper drawer. It wasn’t that big of a deal to make such alterations but had I paid attention to the location of the plumbing beforehand, this could have been avoided! The same will apply to the adjustable shelf!

Also, to maintain the consistency of the wood species, we cut all of the pieces out of plywood and used edge banding on the exposed edges. The drawers can be cut out of cabinet grade plywood, which is a little cheaper than oak or birch. This makes the project very economical and reduces the amount of waste.
Materials:

1″ pocket hole screws
1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
6 sets of 18″ drawer slides
Edge banding, if desired
8 cabinet pulls
2 sets of hinges
Finishing supplies

Lumber:

Half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
1 sheet of 3/4″ cabinet grade plywood
2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 32-1/4″ – Sides
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 46-1/2″ – Bottom
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 46-1/2″ – Kickplate
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 27-1/2″ – Dividers
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 46-1/2″ – Upper Stretchers
6 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 9-3/4″ – Drawer Stretchers
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 25-3/8″ – Shelf
4 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 7-15/16″ – Door Rails
4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7 15/16″ x 25-1/2″ – Door Stiles
2 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 20-1/2″ – Door Panels
6 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Bottoms
12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Sides
12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 8-3/4″ – Drawer Front & Back
12 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 7-1/4″ – Drawer Front Rails
4 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 8″ – Upper Drawer Front Stiles
8 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ – Drawer Front Stiles
2 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 7-1/4″ – Upper Drawer Front Panel
4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 7-1/4″ – Drawer Front Panels

Step 1:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly! Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch for the kickplate using a jigsaw

Step 2:

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the sides just above the horizontal line for the kickplate using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Step 4:

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge. Secure the divider to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one pocket hole as shown to secure the divider. Position as shown, then secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position at the center of the dividers and attach using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 7:

Position the front stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 8:

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 9:

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments, then install the drawer boxes.

Step 10:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the rails to the center panels using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the rails. Attach the stiles to the assembly using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the rails and 1″ pocket hole screws through the panel. Locate and drill holes for the cabinet pull. The drawer fronts will overlap the opening by 1/4″ on all sides. Drive screws through the holes drilled for the cabinet pull into the drawer box. Open the drawer, then secure the front from the inside of the box.

Step 11:

Cut the pieces for the door and assemble in the same manner as the drawer fronts. Attach the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Finish as desired!

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Vanity

Materials needed:

4 vanity legs (Osborne Wood Part #5050)
¾” plywood (1 sheet)
¼” plywood (quarter sheet is plenty)
(2) 2x2x8
(2) 1x2x8
Cove molding (optional)
(2) 2x8x8 (for the top)
2 sets of hinges
16” drawer slide
4 brass ring pulls

Step 1: Build the vanity side panels

Okay, first, let me explain something. Used to, standard height on vanities was 30” tall. It’s become standard now to do 36” tall (have you guys used both? 36” tall is SOOOOOO much nicer because you don’t have to bend over so far to wash your face, which is nice on the old back).

These vanity legs come 34 ½” long to accommodate a 1 ½” thick countertop to make it a total of 36” tall. HOWEVER, I purchased an above mount sink that is 5 ½” tall. So, in order for the top of my sink to be 36” off the ground, I had to make my vanity 30 ½” tall. Are we all on the same page? If you are using an undermount sink or a drop in, you don’t have to cut the legs. And your measurements will be a little different as far as the height goes.

Okay, so now that I’ve explained that, first I cut my vanity legs to be 29” tall. I’m going to be honest. These legs are so smooth and pretty (unlike my own…HA!), it kind of hurt my soul a little to have to cut them. But, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Then, I cut two pieces of 2×2 at 13” long and drilled 1 ½” pocket holes in both ends. I attached the 2x2s to the top between two legs using 2 ½” pocket hole screws making sure the outside of the 2×2 was flush with the outside of the legs. See image below. I used my Kreg Rip cut to cut my plywood down to a 13” wide strip. Once I had my 13” strip, I cut two pieces 18” long and drilled pocket holes along the sides with my Kreg Jig. I slid these pieces in between the vanity legs and attached to the 2×2 and the legs using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. See image below. Make sure the inside of the plywood is flush with the inside of the 2×2.

Then I attached another 2×2 to the bottom using 1 ½” pocket holes and 2 ½” pocket hole screws. I screwed the plywood into this at the bottom as well. That makes two panels that look like the image below.

Step 2: Attach the vanity sides together

I made my vanity 33” wide overall. Subtract 1” on each side for the top overhang and 6 inches (3” per leg) for the legs, and that gives 25”. If you want your vanity to be wider, just adjust this measurement.

I cut two 2x2s at 25” long and drilled 1 ½” pocket hole screws in each end and used 2 ½” pocket hole screws to attach the side panels at the TOP OF THE FRONT SIDE as shown below and at the bottom as shown in the next picture.

Then I used a piece of scrap plywood (but you can use a 1×2) to attach across the top of the back side using pocket holes and screws. (When installing the vanity, this will be the piece you screw to the wall.) Notice the bottom front side 2×2 in the image below.

Step 3: Add the drawer

I forgot to take a picture of part of this, but you can see most of it on the image below. I cut two pieces of 1×2 at 13” and screwed them into each side panel between the vanity legs using pocket holes and screws.

This is so you can attach the drawer slide as seen above. I attached the drawer slide to this 1×2 making sure to leave space in the front for the depth of the drawer front (which is about 1 ½”)

You can make them lots of different ways, but your overall size of the drawer (without the front) should be 16” deep and 24” wide. I used 1x4s for the sides of the drawer, but 3 ½” strips of plywood would work just fine, too. Once the drawer was made, I attached it to the slides.

Step 4: Add the shelf

I made my drawer front 5 ¼” tall (more on that in a second). So, I cut a 1×2 at 25” and drilled pocket holes in each end and attached it into the legs as shown below. I measured and made sure the distance between the top of the 2×2 and the bottom of the 1×2 was 5 ½” to allow room for the drawer front. Sorry, I have the top gluing up in the picture…that’s actually step 6.

I cut two more 1x2s at about 16” and screwed them into the legs as shown below so that the top was flush with the bottom of the 1×2 on the front.

Then, I cut a piece of ¾” plywood at 17 ½” wide and 28” wide. I cut notches in each corner like the picture below.

Then I attempted to put the shelf in and there was NO WAY I could get it to go in as one piece. So I ripped it in half and put it in as two pieces.

Here’s why I did this: I have long hair. Long hair and P-traps don’t get along. Although I won’t be using this guest bathroom as my main bathroom, inevitably the P-trap will eventually get clogged and need to be cleaned (the fact I wash my paint brushes in the guest bathroom sinks probably won’t help the matter…). I want to be able to remove this shelf when cleaning the P-trap so that 1. It doesn’t get covered in nasty P-trap grime on accident and 2. So there’s more room to work on it in here when the time comes. If you are totally okay with not removing the shelf, you could do this step BEFORE adding the drawer and screw it all in as one piece that can’t be removed. Up to you.

Step 5: Add drawer front and doors and trim

I already said that my drawer front was 5 ¼” tall. I cut it from the leftover 3/4″ plywood and made it ¼” shorter width wise than the drawer opening (24 ¾”) and added cove molding around the edges.

I also cut two doors from the 3/4″ plywood and nailed cove molding to them, too (my joints look bad below…they aren’t nailed in yet). The size of the doors will depend on the type of hinge you decide to use. My doors ended up about 11 ½” tall and 12 ¼” wide.

Then I nailed cove around the side panels for a little extra detail

Putty the cracks and nail holes. Once the putty dries, sand everything well. Don’t attach the drawer front or doors yet…it’s easier to paint them first.

Step 6: Make the top

I made my table top 33” wide and about 22” deep. I will likely trim the top down to 20-21” once the vanity is installed. I’m not sure how far from the wall the top of the vanity will be when it’s installed (because of baseboards and the fact that walls are NEVER perfect), so I’m waiting to trim it down until I know how far off the back it will hang. I want only 1” overhang in the front. Sorry, that’s a lot of extra information. But, it’s free so there you go.

I drilled pocket holes along the sides and back to attach the top later.

Step 7: Finish

I stained the top with Miniwax Puritan Pine and finished it with Miniwax Polycrylic. Since this will be in the bathroom, I plan to add SEVERAL coats before it’s actually installed.

I primed and painted the vanity in SW Navy. Once the paint was dry, I attached the drawer front by screwing it in from the inside of the drawer and attached the doors using small brass hinges. The sink isn’t installed yet, but I set it on top to get the idea. Once it’s ready, we will drill the hole in the top for the drain.

Then I added these brass ring pulls from D. Lawless Hardware. Aren’t they gorgeous?! I think they really add so much character to the vanity. Plus I’m a sucker for brass and navy.

The original plan can be found at https://www.woodshopdiaries.com/diy-bathroom-vanity/

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Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
1-1/4″ brad nails
Edge banding, optional
6 – 1″ wide metal angles
Cabinet pulls
Wood glue
Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 32-1/2″ – Sides
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 25″ – Bottom
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 25″ x 32-1/2″ – Back
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 30″ – Face Frame Sides
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 26-1/2″ – Face Frame Bottom
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – False Drawer Front
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – False Drawer Front
3 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-5/8″ x 19-3/4″ – Drawer Spacers & Divider
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 25″ – Shelves
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-3/4″ x 18-1/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
4 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 18-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 11-1/4″ – Drawer Box Fronts
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 11-1/4″ – Drawer Box Back
2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-9/16″ x 22-1/4″ – Doors

Step 1:
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket hole sin each side edge of the bottom piece. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front edge of the bottom will be flush with the front edge of the sides. The bottom will be 3/4″ short at the back to allow for the back piece.

Step 2:
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the back into the back edge of the bottom.

Step 3:
Cut the pieces for the face frame. Cut the notch in the lower piece using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The pieces can be assembled as a frame first, then applied to the front of the cabinet, or they can be secure individually. The side edges of the side pieces will be flush with the outside of the cabinet. The top edge of the bottom piece will be flush with the top face of the bottom.

Step 4:
Cut the pieces for the false drawer front. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble the false front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the false front to the sides of the the face frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers and the drawer divider. Secure the spacers behind the face frame securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the divider to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom. The back edge of the divider will be flush with the back of the cabinet to allow for the doors at the front.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back edge of one shelf only. Secure the shelf without the pocket holes to the drawer spacers and the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top of the shelf. Secure the second shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and cut the notch using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the drawer fronts and back pieces to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings as well as in between them.

Finish the cabinet and doors as desired. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the openings. Install the metal angles, spray painting if desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawers to allow them to slide smoothly in the openings.

A plain plywood top can also be added to the cabinet (instead of a vanity top and sink), and the cabinet can be used as a media cabinet or extra storage in any room of the home.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/diy-plans-build-trunk-style-bath-vanity/

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Bathroom Shelf

This simple storage tower can be used with or without wire baskets to add precious storage space and countertop space to even the tiniest of bathrooms. Use throughout the home for storage – think potatos and onions, socks and underwear, or even favorite books beside your bed.

Shown with a Spectrum small wire basket, available at most stores for about $10 and a homemade fabric liner. Also available is a medium sized basket that is slightly wider. Simply add a few inches to the width of you project to accommodate the larger baskets.

Shopping List:

2 – Wire Baskets, measuring 9″ wide x 8″ tall x 12″ deep (as shown)
3 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×12 @ 4 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×2 @ 2 feet long
2 1/2″ Screws or finish nails
2″ Screws or finish nails
1 1/4″ Screws or finish nails
wood glue, wood filler and finishing supplies

Dimensions: 16″ wide x 30″ tall x 15 1/2″ deep

Cut List:

4 – 2×2 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs)
4 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim for shelves – Measure to fit the width of your 1x12s)
2 – 1×12 @ 11″ (Shelves)
2 – 1×3 @ 11″ (Back Trim for Shelves)
4 – 2×2 @ 11″ (Width Trim)
3 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Trim – Measure to fit the width of your 1x12s)
1 – 1×12 @ 16″ (Top Shelf)
1 – 1×2 @ 16″ (Back, Top)
1 – 1×3 @ 16, (Front, Top)

Step 1: Attach Shelf Side Trim to Legs

Measure and mark the location of the shelf side trim on the insides of the legs. Predrill holes and attach with 2 1/2″ screws or finish nails and glue. Build two. Shelf side trim is flush to the inside.

Step 2: Shelves

Measure and mark the shelf side trim 1″ from the top edge. This is the top edge of your shelves. Attach shelves with 2″ screws and glue or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3: Back Trim

Attach the back trim flush with the sides as you did the side trim.

Step 4: Width Trim

The shelf trim is flush to the top, the top trim flush to the top. Attach with 2 1/2″ screws or finish nails and glue.

Step 5: Top Support/Trim

Attach the top support/trim as shown above. Center the support. You will use these boards to screw the tops in place.

Step 6: Top Shelf

Screw through the supports/top trim with 2″ screws and glue to attach top shelf.

Step 7: Front and Back of Top Shelf

Finish the top shelf with the 1×2 and 1×3, 1×2 to the back so your piece will sit flush to the wall. Use 2″ screws and glue.

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply a second coat if necessary. Sand with 120 grit sandpaper in the direction of the wood grain. Vacuum and wipe clean with a damp cloth. Prime and paint as desired.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/2011/02/wire-basket-bath-storage-tower.html

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Simple Sink Console

Shopping List:

Wood:

4 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×6 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×8 @ 10 feet long (NOTE: It is very important that your 1×8 is 7 1/4″ wide. If it is not, purchase a 1×10 and rip it down to 7 3/4″.)
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2×2 @ 10 feet long
1 – scrap of 1/4″ plywood at least 32″ x 12″
1 – 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Hardware and Supplies:

3 – Knobs or Drawer Pulls
1 – set of 12″ Bottom Mount Drawer Slides
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Regular Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Finishing Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Medium Grit Sandpaper
Primer or Wood Conditioner
Paint or Stain

Cut List:

Boards:

6 – 1×2 @ 4 1/2″ – Drawer Trim (short)
1 – 1×2 @ 7 1/2″ – False Drawer Trim (center)
4 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ – False Drawer Trim (long)
2 – 1×2 @ 32 3/4″ – Drawer Trim (long)
1 – 1×2 @ 33″ – Front Trim
4 – 1×2 @ 21 1/2″ – Side Trim
2 – 1×3 @ 33″ – Vanity Top Trim
1 – 1×6 @ 32″ – Drawer Back
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/4″ – Drawer Sides
1 – 1×8 @ 32 3/4″ – Drawer Front
1 – 1×8 @ 33″ – False Drawer Front
1 – 1×8 @ 33″ – Back Support
2 – 2×2 @ 33″ – Bottom Shelf Trim (long)
2 – 2×2 @ 21 1/2″ – Bottom Shelf Trim (short)
4 – 2×2 @ 35 3/4″ – Legs
1 – 2×2 @ 33″ – Bottom Drawer Divider

Plywood:

1 – 1/4″ Plywood scrap @ 32″ x 12″ – Drawer Bottom
1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 33″ x 21 1/2″ – Bottom Shelf
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 21 1/2″ x 18 1/4″ – Sides

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit. Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Plywood Cuts:

Here is a basic cutting diagram for your 3/4″ plywood. When you purchase your plywood, have them cut the piece lengthwise at 21 1/2″. That way, when you get it home, you only have to make one cut per piece. (Plus, if you’re like me with our Matrix hatchback, this way it will actually fit in your car!)

Step 1:

Assemble the side of the vanity as shown above. Make sure that there is a 3/4″ gap between the front of your plywood and the edge of the 2×2. Also, make sure that your pocket holes go on the inside of what will be the cabinet, I just marked them on the outside so that you could better see where they go.

Step 2:

Add trim to the top and bottom edge. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second side.

Step 3:

Here’s the fun part where it starts to look like something. Attach the shelf, back support, and one of the pieces of the vanity top trim as shown above.

Step 4:

Add 2×2 bottom shelf trim using the pocket holes that you pre-drilled in the previous step. (It will be easier if you flip the whole piece over while completing this step.) The top of the 2×2 should be flush with the top of your plywood.

Step 5:

Flip your sink console so that you are now working on the front side. Make sure to drill your pocket hole screws on the INSIDE to hide them. Leave a 3/4″ gap on the front of your false drawer front to allow for trim in the later steps.

Step 6:

Add your second piece of top trim above your false drawer front. The front of the 1×3 should be flush with the edges of your 2×2 legs.

Step 7:

When adding the bottom drawer divider, it is important that your measurements are exact. Before adding this piece, double check the width of your 1×8 drawer front to once again confirm it is 7 1/2″ wide. Some of them come as 7 1/4″, which is why I notated in the shopping list to make sure your board is wide enough.

A trick to making sure your board is exactly 7 3/4″ from the bottom of your 1×2 is to cut a scrap piece of wood to 7 3/4″ and use it as a “spacer” while screwing in your bottom drawer divider.

Step 8:

Build your drawer interior as shown above.

Step 9:

Install your drawer slides and insert your drawer. When installing your slides the interior of the drawer should sit right behind your 2×2 bottom drawer divider, leaving room for your drawer front and trim. To install your drawer front, center it into the space, leaving a 1/8″ gap all the way around it, and secure it with finishing nails. Once it’s tight enough to pull out, remove the drawer and further secure it using the pocket hole screws that you pre-drilled in the previous step.

Step 10:

Add all of your drawer trim. Once you have finished your piece, add your knobs/drawer pulls.

Finishing:

Finish your project as desired. Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.

The original plan can be found at http://www.oldpaintdesign.com/2012/05/28/simple-sink-console/

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