Cart – Woodworkers Resource

BBQ Grill Cart

Materials:

(5) 2 x 8 x 8-ft. boards
(6) 2 x 4 x 8-ft. boards
(4) 3-in. steel swivel casters
(4) 2 x 2 x 36″ Angle irons
3″ Deck screws
1 Can of spray paint
Mineral oil to season the butcher block surface
Butcher block conditioner
Cutting oil to use as a lubricant for drilling through the metal

Step 1: Cut the lumber

Cut the wood into the lengths shown in the diagram above.

Step 2: Build the Shelves

Screw together the 2x4s into rectangular frames and then screw the longer pieces of 2x8s and 2x4s on top of them.

Step 3: Drill through the angle irons

Drill through the angle irons with the 3/16 in. bit. Check to make sure that the screws fit through the holes. Then use the larger drill bit to create a hole over the 3/16th hole to countersink the screws.

Step 4: Paint the angle irons

Clean the cutting oil off the angle irons and then paint them with spray paint.

Step 5: Attach the angle irons

Screw through the holes drilled in the angle irons and into the wood shelves.

Step 6: Attach the top

Screw through the top boards and into the frame.

Step 7: Seal or stain wood

Finish the wood with a butcher-block conditioner.

Step 8: Add wheels and accessories

Screw on the wheels and other accessories.

The original plan can be found at http://blog.homedepot.com

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BBQ Grill Cart

You’ve perfected your grilling technique. You’ve mastered the marinade. Now take your outdoor culinary skills to the next level by building our red cedar cookout cart. It’s the perfect mobile staging area for storing and preparing food. Chop vegetables or slice meat on its lift-off polyethylene cutting board, then dump scraps through its hole and into a sliding stainless-steel pan below. Another larger pan on the left slides out to give you access to stored meat, fish, vegetables or ice. Lean cookbooks against the backsplash and keep condiments in the lift-out tray on the left. After the feast, the slide-out pans, the cutting board and the condiment tray come inside for cleaning while the cart stays outside with your grill.

Materials:

A – (2) 5/4” x 4” x 44” (handle)
B – (2) 1” x 4” x 34 ½” (front leg)
C – (2) 1” x 4” x 32” (rear leg)
D – (6) 1” x 4” x 22” (frame end)
E – (6) 1” x 4” x 30 ½” (frame side)
F – (2) 1” x 4” x 20 ½” (frame, stretcher)
G – (1) ¾” dia. x 24 ¼” (steel handle)
H – (2) 8” dia. (cart wheel)
I – (1) 1” x 4” x 17 7/8” (top, center) (actual width is 4”; rip from 1×6)
J – (1) 1” x 4 ½” x 17 7/8” (top, end) (rip from 1×6)
K – (1) 1” x 3” x 37 ¼” (top, back)(rip from 1×4)
L – (1) 1” x 4” x 23 ½” (top, stretcher)
M – (1) 1” x 4 ¼” x 37 ¼” (top, front) (rip from 1×6)
N – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 20 ½” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
O – (2) 1” x 1 ¾” x 22 ¼” (top, cleat)(rip from scrap or 1×4)
P – (1) 1” x 6 ¼” x 37 ¼” (backsplash)(cut from 1×8)
Q – (3) 5/4” x 1 ¾” x 22” (pan runners)
R – (6) 3/8” x 2 ½” (dowels)
S – (4) 1” x 2 ¼” x 2 ¼” (corner block)
T – (2) 1/8” x 8” x 14” (knife shield)
U – (1) ¾” x 17 ¾” x 23 ¾” (cutting board)
V – (22) 3/8” x 1 ½” x 31 7/8” (shelf slats)
W – (1) 6” x 12 ¾” x 21” (large pan)
X – (1) 6” x 10 ½” x 12” (small pan)
Y – (1) 3” x 5” x 18 ¾” (condiment tray)

Step 1: Clamp, then screw

Crosscut the parts for the three frames. Clamp the parts together and bore countersunk pilot holes. Apply waterproof glue to the joint to add a little strength and to seal the end grain. Next, drive 1¼-inch galvanized or stainless-steel screws into each joint.

Step 2: Install the legs

Crosscut the two rear legs, apply waterproof glue to the joint and fasten the legs using 1¼-inch screws driven into pilot holes.

Step 3: Add safety

Make a knife shield from two pieces of acrylic plastic cut to shape with a jigsaw. Drill and countersink three screw holes into each piece. Then screw one to the outer surface of the upper frame. Attach the other to the inner surface of the wood handle.

Step 4: Hide the screws

Fasten the cart’s wood handle to the upper frame with glue and deck screws. Drive the screws from the back so they’ll be hidden. Make sure that the square end of each handle is flush with the rear legs.

Step 5: Dowels make knife slots

To create five partitions to hang knives, start by drilling six holes through the upper frame and both acrylic panels, and into (but not through) the wood handle. Insert a dowel into each hole, then trim it flush.

Step 6: Rip the slats

Rip the slats from a cedar 2 x 4 and sand or plane them smooth. Shape their top edges with a router and a rounding-over bit. Using a pneumatic finish nailer, fasten the slats to the frame, spaced 5/8 inch apart.

Step 7: Build the top

Rip and crosscut the top parts and test fit the cutting board in it. Next, use glue and biscuits to assemble the top and clamp the assembly. Screw the cleats to the bottom of the assembly.

Step 8: Add Runners

With the cart upside down, screw on the runners, which will support the two stainless-steel pans.

Step 9: Fasten the backsplash

Rip and crosscut the back-splash from a cedar 1 x 8, then cut the gentle top curve using a jigsaw. Finally, fasten it by driving deck screws through pilot holes into the back of the top assembly.

The original plan can be found at https://www.popularmechanics.com

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Backyard Service Cart

A practical service cart with fold-able shelves that is indispensable next to a barbecue.
This service cart is built with cedar, a naturally weather resistant wood that will last
for many years.

Materials:

10 pieces – 1×6 Cedar – 96″ long
3 pieces – 1×2 Cedar – 96″ long
1 1/2″ screws for treated wood
3 – 36″ piano hinges

Cutting Plan:

1×6 Cedar:

A – Contour – 10 pieces – 6″ x 32″
B – Door – 4 pieces – 6″ x 28 3/4″
C – Top – 3 pieces – 6″ x 23 7/8″
D – Shelf – 6 pieces – 6″ x 17″
E – Shelf – 3 pieces – 6″ x 20 7/8″
F – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 20 7/8″
G – Base – 2 pieces – 3″ x 15 1/4″

1×2 Cedar:

H – Stiffener – 10 pieces – 2″ x 15 1/4″
I – Stiffener – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 7/8″
J – Stiffener – 4 pieces – 2″ x 9 3/8″
K – 45 degree support – 2 pieces – 2″ x 20 15/16″

Piano Hinge:

L – Door hinge – 2 pieces – 28″ long
M – Shelf hinge – 1 piece – 15″ long

Assembly:

Step 1:

Assemble each of the two sides by juxtaposing three A boards, connected by three H stiffeners and a G stiffener, centered in relation to the three boards.

– Screw an H stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
– Screw the G stiffener to the lower end. Note that this G part is made of a 1″ x 6″ part cut length ways 1″ x 3″.
– Attach the last two H stiffeners on both sides at the centre of the assembly, 15 1/2″ from the lower end of the A boards.

Step 2:

Assemble the back by juxtaposing four A boards, connected by an I stiffener and an F stiffener centered in relation to the four boards.
– Screw the I stiffener to the higher end of the A boards.
– Screw the F stiffener to the lower end.

Step 3:

Attach the back of the sideboard
to the sides. The back should rest on the sides, and not be caught between them.

Step 4:

Screw an I stiffener on the front
to the two H stiffener above
the side panels.

Step 5:

Screw an F stiffener on the front to two G stiffener of the side panels.

Step 6:

Lay the E boards of the interior shelf on the central H stiffeners, and screw.

Step 7:

Lay the C boards on the higher H stiffeners. The C boards should be centered in relation to the sides. Screw.

Step 8:

Assemble the two hinged shelves by using three D parts, connected
by H stiffeners attached 2″ from the ends of the D boards.

Step 9:

Screw the piano hinges M to the shelves, and then to the sideboard.

Step 10:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 11:

Assemble each door by using two B parts connected by J stiffener
that are centered and placed 1 1/2″ from the ends of B.

Step 12:

Screw the L piano hinges to the doors and then to the sides of the sideboard.

Step 13:

Support of the hinged shelves, when unfolded, is ensured by the K parts,
which ends are cut at 45 degrees, and are supported by the central external stiffeners.

Although the cedar is weather resistant, it is recommended to store the sideboard during the winter to give it a longer life.

The original plan can be found at https://www.rona.camade by Rona

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Barbeque Cart

This easy-to-build Barbecue Cart will solve both of those problems for you. First, it comes complete with two spacious drawers, a condiment organizer, a utensil holder, a slide-out cutting board/shelf and plenty of space for all the cooking stuff you’ll be needing. The laminate-covered top offers plenty of space for food preparation and staging . . . it’s conveniently portable . . . plus . . . it’s attractive enough to fit in, no matter where you may choose to store it between cook-outs.

We made our example from red oak with a white laminate-covered top and lower shelf. If you’re planning to leave the table outside, be sure to choose a weatherproof wood like red cedar, redwood or cypress for the basic construction and use waterproof glue and brass screws to put everything together.

List of Materials:

Facing Assembly – Figure 1
A – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 8″
B – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 4 1/4″
C – Top Rail(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 17″
D – Bottom Rail(1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17″

Base Assembly – Figure 2
E – Back(1) 3/4″ x 8″ x 20″
F – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 8″ x 14 1/2″
G – Legs(4) 2″ x 2″ x 38″

Web Frame Assembly – Figures 3 & 4
H – Stiles(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 17″
I – Rails(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 15 3/4″
J – Stile-Middle(1) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 12 3/4″
K – Drawer Runners(2) 1/4″ x 1″ x 16″
L – Cleats(2) 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 16 7/8″

Shelf Support Assembly – Figures 6 & 7
M – Sides(2) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 22 1/4″
N – Back Brace(1) 3/4″ x 1 5/8″ x 12 3/4″
O – Front Brace(1) 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 12 3/4″
P – Guides(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ x 10 3/4″
Q – Side-Out Shelf(1) 11/16″ x 10 3/8″ x 11 1/16″
R – Bottom-Hardboard(1) 1/8″ x 14 1/2″ x 11

Bottom Shelf Assembly – Figures 8 & 9
S – Front/Back Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20
T – Side Rail(2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″
U – Top-Laminate(1) 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″

Drawer Assembly – Figure 5
V – Sides(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 16″
W – Front/Back(4) 5/8″ x 4 1/16″ x 6 7/8″
X – Bottoms(2) 1/4″ x 6 3/4″ x 15 1/8″
Y – False Fronts(2) 3/8″ x 5″ x 8 1/2″

Top Assembly
Z – Top-Laminate(1) – 3/4″ x 17″ x 18 1/2″
M – Side Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 20 1/4″
BB – Front/Back Rail(2) – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 25 3/4″

Accessory Add-ons
CC – Utensil Holder(1) 3/4″ x 2″ x 17 5/8″
DD – Condiment Hold(1) 3/4″ x 4″ x 18″

Hardware
20 – 1 1/4″ x #8 Wood Screws
14 – 1 ¼” x #6 Wood Screws
4 – Wooden Screw Plugs – Optional
62 – 1” x 3/8” Dowel Pins
1 – 1” x ¼” Dowel Pin
2 – Drawer Pulls
1 – Sliding Shelf Pull
4 – Casters

Figure 1

Step 1:

First, cut all work pieces to size, following the dimensions outlined in the List of Materials

NOTE: Be sure to allow all glued-up sub-assemblies to dry completely for 24 hours before putting them together with other sub-assemblies.

Step 2:

Using your drill press, drill (16) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces B, C and D, and glue the facing assembly together, using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins as shown in Figure 1.

Step 3:

Use your dado set-up or band-saw to cut a 10-7/16-inch wide by 1-9/16-inch deep notch in the left side of the base assembly (F) to accommodate the pull-out shelf/cutting board, which will be installed later. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 4:

Drill (50) 3/8-inch diameter by 9/16-inch deep dowel holes in pieces A, E, F and G as shown in Figure 2. Assemble all pieces together (including the facing sub-assembly you made in step #2, above) using 3/8-inch diameter by 1-inch long dowel pins.

Step 5:

Mount cleats (L) to the insides of the four legs (G) as shown in Figure 4, using 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins. Position them 7-1/4” down from the tops of the legs (G) or sides (F).

Step 6:

Cut 1/4-inch by 3/8-inch deep tongue & groove joints in the web frame stiles and rails (pieces H, I and J), as shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3

Step 7:

Glue-up the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3

Step 8:

Mount the web frame assembly to the top surfaces of the cleats you glued into position in step#5, above, using four 1 ¼” x #8 wood screws. See Figures 3 & 4.

Figure 4

Step 9:

Cut the dado and rabbet joints in the drawer fronts and backs (parts W) and the drawer sides (parts V), as shown in Figure 5.

Step 10:

Cut the 1-inch wide by 1/4-inch deep notches in the drawer fronts/backs (parts W) (see Figure 5). These notches will slide on the drawer runners (parts K, Figure 3) when assembled.

Step 11:

Using glue, assemble the drawer sides (V) front/back (W) and bottom (X), as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 5

Step 12:

Using the drawer assemblies you made in step 11, above as guides, glue the drawer runners (K) to the web frame assembly as shown in Figure 3. Be sure the drawers slide smoothly in and out before leaving the runners to dry.

Step 13:

Using a router or belt sander, round-over the edges of the false drawer fronts (Y).

Step 14:

Glue the false drawer fronts (Y) to the fronts of the drawer assemblies (See Figure 5).

Step 15:

Construct the shelf support assembly (M, N, O, P, R in Figure 6) using 1-1/4″ x #6 wood screws.

TIP: Drill pilot holes for screws first to ease the assembly process.

Figure 6

Step 16:

Mount the completed shelf support assembly (Figure 6) to the base assembly (Figure 2), using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figures 6 & 7.

Step 17:

Drill a 1/4-inch diameter by 1/2-inch deep hole, in a centered position, approximately 1/2-inch in from the back edge of the slide-out cutting board/shelf (part Q). Be sure this hole is in the TOP surface of the board. This protruding dowel will serve as a stop to keep shelf from pulling out completely. We’ll glue this stop into position later.

Figure 7

Step 18:

Cut the miters for the bottom shelf front, back and side rails (parts S & T). See Figure 8.

Step 19:

Assemble the bottom shelf with 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch long dowel pins and glue. NOTE: Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (U) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 8.

Figure 8

Step 20:

Attach the bottom shelf assembly you made in step 19 to the four legs (G) using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. We suggest that the shelf be positioned about 10-inch or so up from the bottoms of the legs. It’s your choice. See Figure 9.

Figure 9

Step 21:

Cut the miters for the front, back and side rails (AA & BB) of the Cart to assembly (See Figure 10). Next, cut out the utensil holder (CC) and condiment holder (DD) pieces. See Figure 10.

Step 22:

Using glue and 3/8-inch diameter x 1-inch dowels, put the top assembly together (Z, AA, BB). NOTE: Be sure to apply a liberal coat of glue around all edges of the top (Z) to prevent any moisture or spills from seeping into the laminate substrate. If you’re planning to leave your Cart outdoors, use waterproof glue. See Figure 10.

Figure 10

Step 23:

Mount the top assembly to the base assembly, using 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 11.

Step 24:

Mount the utensil holder (CC) to the side of the top assembly using two 1-1/4-inch x #8 wood screws. See Figure 10.

Step 25:

Round the edges of the condiment holder using a belt sander or router and mount it to the laminate top with four 1-1/4-inch x #6 wood screws. See Figure 10. If you prefer, counter-bore the screw holes and fill them with wooden plugs.

Step 26:

Finish sand the entire Cart. Be careful not to scuff your laminate surfaces in the process.

Step 27:

Apply a stain, oil or other finish of your choice.

Step 28:

Install the slide-out cutting board/shelf (Q) and glue the 1/4-inch dowel pin into position as a stop.

Step 29:

Mount the pulls of your choice on the drawers and slide-out shelf.

Step 30:

Mount the casters

Figure 11

The original plan can be found at http://www.shopsmithhandson.com

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