Tag: liquor

Patio Bar

Concrete Top


Materials List:

  • (1) – 4×8 sheet of melamine
  • (2) – 2×4 piece of 1 ½ inch thick foam
  • (1) – 1 box of 1 ½ inch screws and drill bit
  • (1) – 1 tube of silicon caulk
  • (1) – 4×8 sheet of square wire re-enforcement
  • Packing tape
  • (4) – Bags of Quikrete Concrete Counter Mix or Quikrete 5000 Mix
  • Permanent Marker
  • Packing Tape
  • Spray bottles and 5 gallon bucket or hose for rinsing
  • Ammonia or baking soda
  • Acid stain
  • Concrete sealer
  • 400 grit sandpaper and sanding block
  • Knife to cut foam

Step 1:

Build the mold for your concrete bar top. Cut ¾ inch thick melamine down to 60” wide by 30”. Then use a jigsaw to cut out the bartender area as seen in the diagram below.

Step 2:

Cut the strips for the sidewalls of your mold. The strips need to be 3 ¾ inches wide by the
dimensions shown in the drawing below. The strips will hold the concrete in and give you a
concrete top that is 3” thick around the outside perimeter of the piece.

Step 3:

Create the foam knockout using 1 ½ inch thick foam. Cut the foam using a sharp knife.
Foam is typically available in large 4 foot by 8 foot sheets or smaller 2 foot by 4 foot
sections. You can piece sheets together as needed to fit the space. Leave a 1 inch channel
around the perimeter of the foam. This will allow the concrete to form around the foam and make an apron. The concrete will look 3 inches thick around all sides. The rest of the
concrete will be 1 ½ inches thick which will reduce the overall weight of the finished bar
top.

Step 4:

Cut the steel re-enforcement to the same dimensions as the foam. The re-enforcement
should fit inside the mold with an inch of play on each side. Use a bolt cutter to cut the re-enforcement.

Step 5:

Fasten the foam to the base of the mold with silicon. Let dry and then mix up your concrete. I’d recommend Quikrete counter top mix or Quikrete 5000. Quikrete counter top mix will be much easier to get a nice smooth during the troweling process. The mix consists of smaller aggregate and additives that help increase the workability and strength of the concrete.

Step 6:

Allow the concrete to set-up. Once the concrete is firm, remove the sidewalls of the mold. If the concrete sags, quickly re-fasten the sidewalls and wait a little longer. When it is ready, fill in any voids with extra concrete and smooth it out using a small trowel. I’d recommend using a mixture with small aggregate for filling things in or making up your own mix of Portland cement, sand, and water

Step 7:

Hard trowel the top surface of the concrete. Use a 12” trowel. Please watch the video for
more tips and information about timing for the troweling process.

Step 8:

Allow the concrete to cure for at least 48 hours and then de-mold the entire piece. Sit the
concrete on wood blocks so the underside of the concrete will dry evenly. Let the concrete
cure for another 24 to 48 hours. Once cured, sand the entire piece by hand with 400 grit sandpaper.

Step 9:

Apply acid stain to the concrete using spray bottles or a pump sprayer. Read the directions
on your stain for more information. I typically recommend diluting the stain 1:1 with water. Allow the stain to sit for at least 8 hours. Then neutralize the acid by pouring a bucket of water on the surface that is mixed with baking soda or a very small amount of ammonia. Use a terry cloth to lightly clean the surface and remove extra residue. If this process is done too early you’ll remove some of the stain because it will not have had enough time to set in the concrete.

Step 10:

Allow the concrete to dry out for a few hours. Then use a water-based outdoor concrete
sealer to seal the concrete top. Apply 2 to 4 coats.

Step 11:

Install the concrete top on the base. First, run a bead of silicon caulk around the top of the
wood base to help prevent the concrete from ever sliding. It is very heavy so it won’t move once in place.

Step 12:

Install LED lighting if you’d like, fill up the cooler, and have your first barbecue! Then send
in a photo of your finished project. I’d love to see your new bar and share it with others to
help inspire more DIY’ers to build it!

Wood Base

Lumber:

  • (3) – 2x6x8 boards (Cedar)
  • (12) – (approximately) 2x4x8 (Cedar)
  • (1) – 4x4x8 (Cedar or Redwood)
  • (22) – 6ft long cedar pickets (siding, shelves, and trim)

Cut list:

  • (6) – 2×6 x 40” long (Corners and back or bar)
  • (4) – 2×4 x 40” long (Corners)
  • (3) – 2×4 x 54” long (frames)
  • (9) – 2×4 x 22” long (frames)
  • (2) – 2×4 x 35” long (frame)
  • (5) – 2×4 x 6 ½” long (frames)
  • (5) – 2×4 x 13” long (frames)
  • (1) – 2×4 x 11” long (frame)
  • (2) – 4×4 x 20 ½ long (frame)
  • (15) – 1×6 x 40” long pickets (siding) Approximate (Will need to rip at least 1 board)
  • (9) – 1×6 x 16” long pickets (shelving) May need to rip a few pieces
  • (6) – 1×6 x 23” long pickets (shelving) May need to rip a few pieces
  • (2) – 1×6 x 46” long pickets (rip to 3” wide) – Front top and bottom trim
  • (4) – 1×6 x 16 ½ inch long pickets (rip to 3” wide) – Side top and bottom trim
  • 1 box 2 ½ inch Kreg Screws
  • Outdoor grade wood glue
  • 1 box of 3 inch wood screws (exterior grade)
  • 1 box of 2 inch wood screws (exterior grade)
  • 1 box 1 ½ inch trim nails for a nail gun (optional)
  • 100 and 200 grit sandpaper for orbital sander
  • Four 3 inch or 4 inch caster wheels (I used 3 inch)
  • 16 2 ½ inch long leg bolts, washers, and nuts that are 7/16 in diameter

Step 1:

Assemble the top frame for the base. Make all your cuts and then assemble using 3 inch
screws. You could use a Kreg-Jig as well for some of the joints if you’d prefer. See the
diagrams below for measurements.

Step 2:

Assemble the lower frame. This is built out of 2×4’s and a 4×4 on each end. The 4×4
provides extra strength and surface area to mount the caster wheels to. Use 3 inch screws.

Step 3:

Create the front corners. Connect a 40 inch long 2×4 to a 40 inch long 2×6. A Kreg-Jig and 2 ½ inch screw work great for this process and eliminate screw holes around the outside of
the base. You could attach the boards using 3 inch screws at an angle if you do not have a
Kreg-Jig.

Step 4:

The rear corners consist of two 2×6 boards and one 2×4. All boards are 40 inches long. Use 2 ½ inch Kreg screws to connect the 2×6’s to each other.

Step 5:

Set the top frame on a flat surface and attach the corners/legs. Attach the corners to the frame using 2 ½ inch long wood screws. Use 3 or 4 screws in each board. Pre-drill pilot holes to minimize splitting.

Step 6:

Once the top frame and legs are attached you’ll want to flip the entire piece so it is right
side up. Them attach the lower frame to the corners/legs. Use a scrap ¾ inch thick scrap
boards to prop the lower frame up ¾ of an inch from the bottom of the legs. This will help
hide the wheels a bit and allow the siding to overlap the bottom 2×4.

Step 7:

Attach the 54 inch long middle support using 2 ½ inch long screws. Measure up 19 inches
from the top of the lower frame and make a mark. The top of the 54 inch long 2×4 should
line up with the mark

The middle shelves consist of 2x4s. Attach the 54” wide board first. Next attach the board
on the right, and finally the left side shelving.

Step 8:

Cut all the siding for the bar out of the 6 foot long cedar pickets. Cut approximately 15
pickets down to 40 inches. Next, measure and attach pickets to the lower and middle
frames to create shelves. Use 1 1/2 inch brad nails if you have an air gun. Or use 2 inch
screws and pre-drill if you do not have an air gun. The boards will be either 16 inches long
or 23 inches long. You may need to rip the end boards using a circular saw/table saw to
ensure a perfect fit.

Step 9:

Attach the cedar picket siding using an air gun and 1 ½ inch long nails. All boards should
be cut to 40 inch lengths. Use 3 on each end and 8 full boards on the front. I worked from
the outside in on the front and ripped the center board to fill the center gap.

Step 10:

Turn the bar on its side and attach the caster wheels if you haven’t already. Pre-drill and
use 2 ½ inch long 7/16 diameter leg bolts, along with a washer. Use 4 bolts and 4 washers
for each caster wheel.

Step 11:

Add trim to the top and bottom of the front and sides of the bar. Rip a couple pickets down
to 3 inches wide. The front trim will be approximately 46 inches long. Use an air nailer,
nails, or screws to attach each trim piece. The side trim will be approximately 16 ½ inches
long.

Step 12:

Run a bead of silicon around the top the base. Then find a few friends to help lift the
concrete into place.

Step 13:

Add a bottle opener and bottle cap catcher if you’d like. LED strip lighting can be ran along
the underside of the concrete which look neat when dark.

The original plan can be found at https://www.diypete.com

 
[email_link]
 

 

Outdoor Bar

Materials:

  • (2) Sheets 1/2”Plywood
  • (2) 4 x 4 x 96” Boards
  • (6) 2 x 4 x 96” Boards
  • (5) 1 x 6 x 96” Boards
  • Carpenter’s Wood Glue
  • 1” & 1 ¼” Brad Nails
  • 1” & 2 ½” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 ½” Wood Screws

Cut List:

Plywood:

  • (1) Top @ 21 x 50”
  • (1) Front Panel @ 41 x 42

4×4’s:

  • (4) Legs @ 41”

2×4’s:

  • (4) Long Frames @ 42
  • (4) Short Side Frames @ 13”
  • (8) Supports @ 15 ¼”
  • (2) Long Middle Supports @ 34”
  • (4) Shelf Braces @ 19 ¼”
  • (2) Side Panels @ 13 x 34”
  • (2) Shelves @ 15 ¼ x 42”

1×6’s, Cut one 1×6 into ½” trim:

  • (2) ½ x ¾ “ top trim @ 21”
  • (2) ½ x ¾ “ top trim @ 51”
  • (2) ½ x ¾ “ front trim @ 40 ½”
  • (2) ½ x ¾ “ front trim @ 41”

Step 1:

Build frames by first attaching your short side frames to the legs of the bar with 2 ½” pocket hole screws and wood glue. Next, attach your long frame pieces using the same method of joinery.

IMPORTANT: make sure to include pocket holes in all top frame pieces that are facing up for attaching the top panel later!

Step 2:

Add the side panels with pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 3:

Attach the long supports/large frame pieces with 2 ½” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 4:

Attach your shelving braces with 2 ½” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 5:

Prep your front panel for artwork! Use a pencil and a straight edge to split your front panel into four equal sections. This will help with lining up your pieces in the next step.

 

Step 6:

Begin attaching 1×6 pieces. This is done by cutting one end of a 1×6 board at a 45 degree angle and lining it up with the middle intersection you made with your pencil. You can either mark the cut that overhangs at the end here (and trim your pieces as you go), or you can cut your pieces a little long and trim the entire panel down later. Work in one section at a time to avoid mistakes! Use a nail gun and glue to hold your boards down.

Step 7:

Once your panel is complete and the sides are flush, attach it to the front of the bar by screwing and gluing it onto the frames from the inside. This will hide the wood screws on the inside of the bar.

Step 8:

Begin adding your supports to help hold the weight of the shelves and the top (top supports not shown in image below). Attach these to the frames with 2 ½” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

IMPORTANT: In order to make your shelving panels lay flush with the shelving frames, you will have to install your shelf supports ½” (or the equivalent width of your plywood) below the top of your frame pieces. In other words, leave a ½” gap at the top of your supports for the shelf to drop in later.

Step 9:

Drop your shelving panels into place and secure them to the supports with 1” brad nails and wood glue.

Step 10:

Install your top panel with 1 ½” pocket hole screws and wood glue from the bottom frame.

Step 11:

Attach ½ x ¾” trim pieces cut from your 1×6’s to the front panel (@ 41”and 42” — to hide any imperfect gaps – this is optional!) and the top (@ 23” and 51” — to hide the plywood edging).

Step 12:

Sand and then stain and seal your bar with outdoor/waterproofing sealer or stain!

The original plan can be found at http://diyhuntress.com

 
[email_link]

Bars and Liquor Cabinets

Gridview

Backyard Bar


“A simple backyard bar that can be built in a day. Use high quality materials, such as cedar, to keep your bar lasting a long time.”

 

 

Corner Bar


“Owning your own in-house bar makes a statement about you. The bar shown here is sleekly styled and smartly laid out for the efficient barkeeper. A small refrigerator gives you access to cold drinks and ice while convenient cabinets create excellent storage spots for party favors.”

 

 

Rustic Ultimate Bar


“By special reader request, this amazing ultimate rustic bar is the perfect DIY furniture plan for the entertainer! Whether you prefer your parties indoors or outdoors, this project is the complete party package.”

 

 

Bar Cabinet


“If you want to learn more about building a basic bar for your garden, we recommend you to pay attention to the instructions described in the article. Work with good judgement and take a close look over…”

 

 

Oxford Bar Cabinet


“Inspired by the Pottery Barn’s Cambridge Bar Cabinet, this bar cabinet looks stunning in any household.”

 

 

Bar Cabinet


“This bar cabinet is a great addition to any wine lover’s home. The decorative sheet metal inserts in the door add a great contrast to the distressed chunky wood top. Inside this cabinet you’ll be able to house all your wine glasses, tumblers, 6 wine bottles, and a drawer to hold your bottle openers and accessories.”

 

 

Bar Cabinet


“This step by step diy woodworking project is about free bar plans. If you want to learn more about building a wooden bar, we recommend you to pay attention to the instructions detailed in the article.”

 

 

Soprano Bar Table


“These plans are based on West Elm’s Alto Bar Table. This is a very easy build, no mitered/beveled cuts, only 5 steps, and very minimal materials.”

 

 

Pages: 1 2 3

Backyard Bar

Materials:

  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 42” long
  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 42” long
  • B – Frame – 15 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 9 pieces @ 15” long, 6 pieces @ 42” long.
  • C – Shelves – 26 pieces of 1×4 – 18” long
  • D – Panels – 23 pieces of 1×6 Lumber – 14 pieces @ 11” long, 9 pieces @ 40” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 48” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 48” long, 2 pieces @ 29” long

Building the frame

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frames of the bar. As you can easily notice in the image, we recommend you to use 2×4 lumber and to cut the components at the right size before locking them together.

Top Tip: Check if the corners are right-angled and drill pilot holes before inserting the screws, in order to prevent the wood from splitting. Align everything properly.

Building the legs

Build the legs for the bar using 2×4 or 2×6 lumber. Make decorative cuts to the bottom of the legs, as shown in the diagram.

Attaching the legs

Continue the woodworking project by attaching the legs to the three frames. In order to get a professional result, we recommend you to cut the ends of the legs in a decorative manner, by using a nice circular saw. Use 2×4 lumber to build the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Plumb the legs and check if the frames are perfectly horizontal before inserting the screws.

Attaching the legs

Next, you need to attach the legs to the front and back faces of the bar. Cut the components at the right size and lock them to the structure with 2 1/2″ screws, from the inside. Leave no gaps between the adjacent legs before inserting the screws into place. Add waterproof glue to enhance the rigidity of the joints and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Work with attention, otherwise the end result won’t match your expectations.

Attaching the slats to the shelves

Attach the 1×4 slats to the frames in order to build the shelves. Work with attention and pre-drill holes through the slats before locking them to the frames with 1 1/4″. Place the slats equally-spaced, in order to get a professional result.

Attaching slats to back face

Attach the 1×6 trims to the exterior of the wooden bar starting with the back face. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the slats and secure them to the legs with 1 1/4″ screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints and make sure the edges are flush. Alternatively, use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to lock the trims to the frame.

Attaching slats to sides

Fit the 1×6 slats between the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints in order to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Top Tip: Place the slats equally-spaced, leaving between them about 1/4″. Align the slats with great care and smooth the cut edges with sandpaper before fitting them into place.

Fitting slats to front

Continue by installing the slats to the front face of the bar, as shown in the image. Align the slats at both ends and secure them to the legs with galvanized screws.

Building the countertop

Building the countertop is a straight-forward process, but you need to tackle it with great care. Align the slats with great care on a level surface and lock them together with galvanized screws. Drill pocket holes along the edges of the slats before inserting the 2 1/2″ screws and add waterproof glue to the joints, in order to create a rigid structure. Make the end slats curved, in order to add value to the wooden bar.

Attaching the countertop

Center the bar to the tabletop, making sure there are no gaps between the components. Drill pocket holes through the frame and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the countertop, to create a rigid structure.

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the bar in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/furniture/free-bar-plans/

[email_link]