Tag: vanity

Materials:

• A– 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 17 1/2″ x 32″ long SIDES
• B– 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 17 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ long BOTTOM
• C– 2 pieces of 1×6 lumber – 24″ long FACE
• D– 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick)- 2 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 24″ long 2xTRIMS
• E– 3 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 22 1/2″ long SUPPORTS
• F– 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 20 3/4″ x 11 7/8″ long DOORS
• G– 4 pieces of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick) – 17 3/4″ long, 4 pieces – 11 7/7″ long TRIMS

Step 1: Building the vanity frame

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frame for the vanity. As you can easily notice in the diagram, we recommend you to build the components out of 3/4″ plywood. Take accurate measurements and smooth the cut edges with fine-grit sandpaper.

Drill pocket holes at both ends of the bottom component and lock it to the sides by using 1 1/4″ screws and waterproof glue. Make sure the corners are right-angled and the side components vertical.

Step 2: Fitting the supports

Continue the project by fitting the 1×3 supports to the front and to the back of the vanity. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the supports, make sure the corners are square and secure them to the sides by using 1 1/4″ galvanized screws. Work with attention and leave no gaps between the components.

Step 3: Attaching the front faces

Next, fit the 1×6 components to the front face of the vanity, as described in the diagram. Drill pilot holes and insert 1 1/4″ screws to lock the components into place tightly. Make sure the edges are flush and add glue to the joints to get a professional result and a durable bond.

Step 4: Fitting the trims

If you want to enhance the look of the bathroom vanity, we recommend you to fit 1×2 trims (1/4″ thick) trims to the exterior of the top and bottom supports. Cut the trims at the right size and lock them to the supports by using waterproof glue and alternatively finishing nails.

Step 5: Building the doors

Building the doors for the bathroom vanity is complex, but make sure you take accurate measurements and you lock the components together. Build the door panels out of 3/4″ plywood and the trims out of 1×2 lumber (1/4″ thick).

Clamp the trims to the door panels after applying glue to the joints. Leave no gaps between the components and leave the glue to dry out for several hours. Smooth the edges with sandpaper and remove the residues with a damp cloth.

Step 6: Fitting the doors

Fit the doors to the structure, making sure they open properly and there is a 1/8″ gap around them, Attach the handles to the doors and make sure the doors open and close easily. Use professional hinges to get a durable result.

Step 7: Finishing

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the vanity in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/

 
[email_link]
 

Note: Before constructing this vanity, make sure it will fit around the plumbing lines and pipe without interference! We had to cut a notch in the divider to allow for the cold water line which therefore shortened the upper drawer. It wasn’t that big of a deal to make such alterations but had I paid attention to the location of the plumbing beforehand, this could have been avoided! The same will apply to the adjustable shelf!

Also, to maintain the consistency of the wood species, we cut all of the pieces out of plywood and used edge banding on the exposed edges. The drawers can be cut out of cabinet grade plywood, which is a little cheaper than oak or birch. This makes the project very economical and reduces the amount of waste.
Materials:

• 1″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 6 sets of 18″ drawer slides
• Edge banding, if desired
• 8 cabinet pulls
• 2 sets of hinges
• Finishing supplies

Lumber:

• Half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
• 1 sheet of 3/4″ cabinet grade plywood
• 2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 32-1/4″ – Sides
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 46-1/2″ – Bottom
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 46-1/2″ – Kickplate
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 27-1/2″ – Dividers
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 46-1/2″ – Upper Stretchers
• 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 9-3/4″ – Drawer Stretchers
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 25-3/8″ – Shelf
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 7-15/16″ – Door Rails
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7 15/16″ x 25-1/2″ – Door Stiles
• 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 20-1/2″ – Door Panels
• 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Bottoms
• 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Sides
• 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 8-3/4″ – Drawer Front & Back
• 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 7-1/4″ – Drawer Front Rails
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 8″ – Upper Drawer Front Stiles
• 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ – Drawer Front Stiles
• 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 7-1/4″ – Upper Drawer Front Panel
• 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 7-1/4″ – Drawer Front Panels

Step 1:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly! Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch for the kickplate using a jigsaw

Step 2:

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the sides just above the horizontal line for the kickplate using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Step 4:

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the lower edge.  Secure the divider to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one pocket hole as shown to secure the divider. Position as shown, then secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position at the center of the dividers and attach using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 7:

Position the front stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 8:

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 9:

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments, then install the drawer boxes.

Step 10:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach the rails to the center panels using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the rails. Attach the stiles to the assembly using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the rails and 1″ pocket hole screws through the panel. Locate and drill holes for the cabinet pull. The drawer fronts will overlap the opening by 1/4″ on all sides. Drive screws through the holes drilled for the cabinet pull into the drawer box. Open the drawer, then secure the front from the inside of the box.

Step 11:

Cut the pieces for the door and assemble in the same manner as the drawer fronts. Attach the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Finish as desired!

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com

 
[email_link]
 

 

Materials needed:

• 4 vanity legs (Osborne Wood Part #5050)
• ¾” plywood (1 sheet)
• ¼” plywood (quarter sheet is plenty)
• (2) 2x2x8
• (2) 1x2x8
• Cove molding (optional)
• (2) 2x8x8 (for the top)
• 2 sets of hinges
• 16” drawer slide
• 4 brass ring pulls

Step 1: Build the vanity side panels

Okay, first, let me explain something. Used to, standard height on vanities was 30” tall. It’s become standard now to do 36” tall (have you guys used both?  36” tall is SOOOOOO much nicer because you don’t have to bend over so far to wash your face, which is nice on the old back).

These vanity legs come 34 ½” long to accommodate a 1 ½” thick countertop to make it a total of 36” tall. HOWEVER, I purchased an above mount sink that is 5 ½” tall.  So, in order for the top of my sink to be 36” off the ground, I had to make my vanity 30 ½” tall.  Are we all on the same page?  If you are using an undermount sink or a drop in, you don’t have to cut the legs.  And your measurements will be a little different as far as the height goes.

Okay, so now that I’ve explained that, first I cut my vanity legs to be 29” tall. I’m going to be honest.  These legs are so smooth and pretty (unlike my own…HA!), it kind of hurt my soul a little to have to cut them.  But, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Then, I cut two pieces of 2×2 at 13” long and drilled 1 ½” pocket holes in both ends. I attached the 2x2s to the top between two legs using 2 ½” pocket hole screws making sure the outside of the 2×2 was flush with the outside of the legs.  See image below. I used my Kreg Rip cut to cut my plywood down to a 13” wide strip. Once I had my 13” strip, I cut two pieces 18” long and drilled pocket holes along the sides with my Kreg Jig.  I slid these pieces in between the vanity legs and attached to the 2×2 and the legs using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws.  See image below.  Make sure the inside of the plywood is flush with the inside of the 2×2.

Then I attached another 2×2 to the bottom using 1 ½” pocket holes and 2 ½” pocket hole screws. I screwed the plywood into this at the bottom as well.  That makes two panels that look like the image below.

Step 2: Attach the vanity sides together

I made my vanity 33” wide overall. Subtract 1” on each side for the top overhang and 6 inches (3” per leg) for the legs, and that gives 25”.  If you want your vanity to be wider, just adjust this measurement.

I cut two 2x2s at 25” long and drilled 1 ½” pocket hole screws in each end and used 2 ½” pocket hole screws to attach the side panels at the TOP OF THE FRONT SIDE as shown below and at the bottom as shown in the next picture.

Then I used a piece of scrap plywood (but you can use a 1×2) to attach across the top of the back side using pocket holes and screws. (When installing the vanity, this will be the piece you screw to the wall.)  Notice the bottom front side 2×2 in the image below.

Step 3: Add the drawer

I forgot to take a picture of part of this, but you can see most of it on the image below. I cut two pieces of 1×2 at 13” and screwed them into each side panel between the vanity legs using pocket holes and screws.

This is so you can attach the drawer slide as seen above. I attached the drawer slide to this 1×2 making sure to leave space in the front for the depth of the drawer front (which is about 1 ½”)

You can make them lots of different ways, but your overall size of the drawer (without the front) should be 16” deep and 24” wide.  I used 1x4s for the sides of the drawer, but 3 ½” strips of plywood would work just fine, too. Once the drawer was made, I attached it to the slides.

Step 4: Add the shelf

I made my drawer front 5 ¼” tall (more on that in a second). So, I cut a 1×2 at 25” and drilled pocket holes in each end and attached it into the legs as shown below.  I measured and made sure the distance between the top of the 2×2 and the bottom of the 1×2 was 5 ½” to allow room for the drawer front.  Sorry, I have the top gluing up in the picture…that’s actually step 6.

I cut two more 1x2s at about 16” and screwed them into the legs as shown below so that the top was flush with the bottom of the 1×2 on the front.

Then, I cut a piece of ¾” plywood at 17 ½” wide and 28” wide. I cut notches in each corner like the picture below.

Then I attempted to put the shelf in and there was NO WAY I could get it to go in as one piece. So I ripped it in half and put it in as two pieces.

Here’s why I did this: I have long hair.  Long hair and P-traps don’t get along.  Although I won’t be using this guest bathroom as my main bathroom, inevitably the P-trap will eventually get clogged and need to be cleaned (the fact I wash my paint brushes in the guest bathroom sinks probably won’t help the matter…).  I want to be able to remove this shelf when cleaning the P-trap so that 1. It doesn’t get covered in nasty P-trap grime on accident and 2. So there’s more room to work on it in here when the time comes. If you are totally okay with not removing the shelf, you could do this step BEFORE adding the drawer and screw it all in as one piece that can’t be removed. Up to you.

Step 5: Add drawer front and doors and trim

I already said that my drawer front was 5 ¼” tall. I cut it from the leftover 3/4″ plywood and made it ¼” shorter width wise than the drawer opening (24 ¾”) and added cove molding around the edges.

I also cut two doors from the 3/4″ plywood and nailed cove molding to them, too (my joints look bad below…they aren’t nailed in yet). The size of the doors will depend on the type of hinge you decide to use.  My doors ended up about 11 ½” tall and 12 ¼” wide.

Then I nailed cove around the side panels for a little extra detail

Putty the cracks and nail holes. Once the putty dries, sand everything well.  Don’t attach the drawer front or doors yet…it’s easier to paint them first.

Step 6: Make the top

I made my table top 33” wide and about 22” deep. I will likely trim the top down to 20-21” once the vanity is installed.  I’m not sure how far from the wall the top of the vanity will be when it’s installed (because of baseboards and the fact that walls are NEVER perfect), so I’m waiting to trim it down until I know how far off the back it will hang.  I want only 1” overhang in the front.  Sorry, that’s a lot of extra information.  But, it’s free so there you go.

I drilled pocket holes along the sides and back to attach the top later.

Step 7: Finish

I stained the top with Miniwax Puritan Pine and finished it with Miniwax Polycrylic. Since this will be in the bathroom, I plan to add SEVERAL coats before it’s actually installed.

I primed and painted the vanity in SW Navy. Once the paint was dry, I attached the drawer front by screwing it in from the inside of the drawer and attached the doors using small brass hinges.  The sink isn’t installed yet, but I set it on top to get the idea.  Once it’s ready, we will drill the hole in the top for the drain.

Then I added these brass ring pulls from D. Lawless Hardware. Aren’t they gorgeous?!  I think they really add so much character to the vanity.  Plus I’m a sucker for brass and navy.

 

The original plan can be found at https://www.woodshopdiaries.com/diy-bathroom-vanity/

 
[email_link]

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• Edge banding, optional
• 6 – 1″ wide metal angles
• Cabinet pulls
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

• 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 32-1/2″ – Sides
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 25″ – Bottom
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 25″ x 32-1/2″ – Back
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 30″ – Face Frame Sides
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 26-1/2″ – Face Frame Bottom
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – False Drawer Front
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – False Drawer Front
• 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-5/8″ x 19-3/4″ – Drawer Spacers & Divider
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 25″ – Shelves
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-3/4″ x 18-1/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 18-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 11-1/4″ – Drawer Box Fronts
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 11-1/4″ – Drawer Box Back
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-9/16″ x 22-1/4″ – Doors

Step 1:
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket hole sin each side edge of the bottom piece. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front edge of the bottom will be flush with the front edge of the sides. The bottom will be 3/4″ short at the back to allow for the back piece.

Step 2:
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the back into the back edge of the bottom.

Step 3:
Cut the pieces for the face frame. Cut the notch in the lower piece using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The pieces can be assembled as a frame first, then applied to the front of the cabinet, or they can be secure individually. The side edges of the side pieces will be flush with the outside of the cabinet. The top edge of the bottom piece will be flush with the top face of the bottom.

Step 4:
Cut the pieces for the false drawer front. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble the false front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the false front to the sides of the the face frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers and the drawer divider. Secure the spacers behind the face frame securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the divider to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom. The back edge of the divider will be flush with the back of the cabinet to allow for the doors at the front.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the sides and back edge of one shelf only. Secure the shelf without the pocket holes to the drawer spacers and the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top of the shelf. Secure the second shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and cut the notch using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the drawer fronts and back pieces to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings as well as in between them.

Finish the cabinet and doors as desired. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the openings. Install the metal angles, spray painting if desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawers to allow them to slide smoothly in the openings.

A plain plywood top can also be added to the cabinet (instead of a vanity top and sink), and the cabinet can be used as a media cabinet or extra storage in any room of the home.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/diy-plans-build-trunk-style-bath-vanity/

 
[email_link]