3 Drawer Dresser

Materials:

  • 4’ x 8’ x ¾” plywood
  • 4’ x 8’ x ¼” plywood
  • 4’ x 4’ x ½” plywood
  • (1) 1×3 @ 6’ long
  • (1) 1×3 @ 4’ long
  • (4) 1×8 @ 8’ long
  • (1) 1×8 @ 4’ long
  • 1 ½” pocket hole screws
  • 1” brads
  • (3) sets of 18” drawer slides

 

Cut List:

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 31” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 32-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 34” – Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 31-3/4” x 34” – Back
  • 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 16-3/4” – Pedestal
  • 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 32-1/2” – Pedestal
  • 6 – 1×8 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1×8 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 10-1/2” x 34” – Drawer Fronts
  • 15 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 34” – Trim Slats

Step 1:

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly. Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top of the side pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides into the top. Check for square.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the back then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long end of each piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a ¾” border around the pedestal.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer box bottoms and attach using glue and 1” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and a few 1” brad nails. Place the brad nails where they will be covered by the trim slats.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. There will be ½” spacing between slats. Attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 1” brad nails.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/09/free-diy-furniture-plans-build-west-elm-inspired-stria-3-drawer-dresser/

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3 Drawer Dresser

Materials:

  • (1) Sheet of ¾” plywood
  • (1) 1×3 at 6’ long
  • (1) 1×6 at 3’ long
  • (2) 1×8 at 8’ long
  • (1) Sheet of ¼” plywood
  • (3) Sets of 16” drawer sliders
  • (3) Drawer pulls
  • 1 ¼” Pocket hole screws
  • 1 ¼” brad nails

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×6 at 14” –Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1×3 at 29” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 36” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 36” – Top
  • 6 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 6 -1×8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 33-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 34-1/4” – Middle Drawer Front

Step 1:

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly. Cut the pieces for the base and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each base piece. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom to attach the sides. Position the base pieces on the bottom as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and existing base pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each edge. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4:

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5:

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap all around. Attach the drawer pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

 

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/09/free-diy-furniture-plans-build-west-elm-inspired-emmerson-3-drawer-dresser/

 

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Gabriela Dresser

This dresser, though it has tons of drawers, is a super-easy build. Featuring a total of twelve drawers, the DIY plans to build a Gabriela Dresser are perfect for a shared kids room, a craft room, or in a dining room. Each of the drawers in the vertical columns are a different size and will accommodate a variety of clothing or accessories. The entire dresser, drawers, and drawer fronts are constructed from 1/2″ material.

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 12 sets of 12″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 13 – 1/2″ thick by 1-1/2″ wide boards at 3′ (also called “craft boards”) OR
  • 9 – 1/2″ thick by 1-1/2″ wide boards at 4′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ boards at 14″ – Upper Side Framing
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 14″ x 27-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 16″ x 46″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 16″ x 27-3/4″ – Dividers
  • 24 – 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ boards at 14″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 28-1/4″ x 44″ – Back
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 16-3/4″ x 47″ – Top
  • 12 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 12″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 11″ – Drawer Box #1 Sides
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box #1 Front & Back
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 11″ – Drawer Box #2 Sides
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box #2 Front & Back
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 11″ – Drawer Box #3 Sides
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box #3 Front & Back
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 11″ – Drawer Box #4 Sides
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box #4 Front & Back
  • 3 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts #1
  • 3 – 1/2″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts #2
  • 3 – 1/2″ plywood at 6-3/4″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts #3
  • 3 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-3/4″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts #4

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper in the lower end using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the upper side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The tapers on the legs will face to the inside.

Cut the pieces for the side panels and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panels to the legs and the framing piece using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 3:

Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the bottom between the lower end of the side legs using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws through the side panels into the bottom.

Step 4:

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower end of each piece. Secure the dividers to the bottom using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end of a total of 16 pieces. The remaining eight will be secured with brad nails. Starting with the center back stretchers, secure them dividers as shown using glue and 1″ brad nails. Secure the remaining stretchers using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws to the legs and dividers.

Repeat the process for the front stretchers.

Step 6:

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1″ brad nails through the back into the legs and stretchers.

Step 7:

Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by 1/2″, and the back edge will cover the top of the back piece. Secure in place using glue and 1″ brad nails.

Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. The drawer box bottoms are all the same size. The sides, front and back of the drawer boxes are all the same length but are different heights. All of the drawers are assembled in the same manner and are shown in the drawing. In the cut list, the drawers are listed in order from top to bottom.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 9:

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finish the dresser as desired.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/diy-plans-build-gabriela-dresser/

 
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Drake Chest Dresser

This chest is one of those pieces that is so well suited for any room… Featuring ten drawers, the plans to build a Drake chest are really easy plus, there are no drawer slides or handles to install. Just add a coat of paste wax on the bottom of the drawers to help them slide smoothly in the openings!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste wax

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ piece of 1/2″ plywood
  • 3 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 29-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 6 – 1×2 at 46″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-3/4″ x 46″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 46″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 47″ – Shelves
  • 6 – 1/2″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ – Spacers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/4″ x 14″ – Lower Divider
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 14″ – Middle Dividers
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 14″ – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 47-1/2″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-3/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 50-1/2″ – Top Front Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 20-7/8″ – Large Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 12-1/2″ – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 22-3/8″ – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 13-1/4″ – Middle Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ – Middle Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-1/2″ x 14-3/4″ – Middle Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 13″ – Middle End Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ – Middle End Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Middle End Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 12-1/2″ – Top Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ – Top Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 8-3/4″ – Top Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-3/4″ x 12-1/2″ – Top Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ – Top Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-1/2″ x 8-1/4″ – Top Drawer Front & Back

*The top center drawer and the middle center drawer are wider than the other drawers in the corresponding row. The 1×2 and 2×2 lumber can be substituted with plywood for continuity of the wood species.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step 1:

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing, and side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Insert the panel and secure to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The panels will be positioned 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs.

Step 2:

Cut the pieces for the back framing and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Insert the panel and secure to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the back panel will be positioned so it is flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Step 3:

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown securing them to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower side framing, the lower back framing, and the lowest stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 5:

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the side panels, back panel, and front stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 6:

Cut the pieces for the spacers. The spacers will help keep the drawers located at the outer edges in line with the cabinet. Secure the spacers above the bottom and each shelf using glue and 1″ brad nails.

Step 7:

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge, the back edge, and the top edge of the lower and middle dividers. Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge and back edge of the top dividers. Secure the dividers to the bottom and shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle drill attachment may be required to secure the middle dividers. For the top dividers, secure the top edge to the uppermost stretcher using 1-1/4″ brad nails.



Step 8:

Cut the pieces for the top panel, top side trim, and top front trim. Drill pocket holes in one end of the top side trim as well as the front and side edges of the panel. Secure the side trim to the panel first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then install the front trim piece.

The front and sides of the top will overhang by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step 9:

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer boxes. All of the drawers will be assembled in the same manner. Cut the notches in the fronts using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then install the front and back.

Step 10:

Cut the pieces for the middle drawers, noting that the center drawer is wider than the other two. Assemble the drawers in the same manner as the lower drawer boxes (see Step Nine).


Step 11:

Cut the pieces for the top drawers, noting that the center drawer is wider than the other four. Assemble the drawers in the same manner as the lower drawer boxes (see Step Nine).

Finish as desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of each drawer.

 

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/plans-build-drake-chest/

 
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