Category: Woodworking Plans

Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Need more than just a mirror in a small or half bath? This project will give you a mirror and a good bit of storage. It’s perfect over a pedestal sink or vanity. The finished dimensions are 25 1/2″ tall x 24″ wide x 7 1/4″ deep.

This project uses pocket-hole joinery in a couple of steps. If you’re not familiar with it, take a look at the basics.

Cut List:

  • main shelf (1) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 15-1/2
  • sides – (2) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 24
  • back (1) – 3/4 x 23 x 24
  • top (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
  • bottom (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
  • face frame rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 14
  • face frame stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 24
  • side shelves (6) – 3/4 x 3 x 6-1/4
  • door rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 12-1/2
  • door stiles (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/2
  • door rail trim (2) – 1/4 x 2-1/2 x 12
  • door stile trim (2) – 1/4 x 1-3/4 x 23-1/2
  • mirror (1) – 1/8 x 12-3/8 x 20- 3/8
  • mirror backer (1) – 1/4 x 12-7/16 x 20-7/16
  • backer stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 20-7/16
  • backer rails (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 11-7/16

Step 1: Assemble the Base

Position the main shelf 11 1/4 inches from the ends of the sides and attach using glue and #17 x 1-1/2-inch wire brads.

Position the side assembly centered on the 23-inch side of the back, and mark on the back face of the back the positions of the sides and main shelf. Apply glue to the edges of the side assembly, and tack in place using 1-1/2-inch brads. For each side and the main shelf, drill countersink holes for 1-5/8-inch screws and drive the screws through the back and into the parts as shown.

Use wood filler to fill the edges and ends of the back. Prime and paint the main shelf, sides and back, except for the top and bottom ends of the sides and the back. Painting the back is optional.

Position the top centered on the end of the assembly nearest the main shelf and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown.

Position the bottom centered on the other end of the assembly and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads.

Step 2: Attach the face frame

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the face frame rails. Position the face frame rails flush with the ends of the face frame stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the face frame assembly flush with the edges of the sides and attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Drive brads through the top and bottom and into the face frame assembly as shown.

Prime and paint the face frame assembly.

Step 3: Add the side shelves

Use the layout below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the side shelves to shape. Drill pocket holes where indicated. Be sure to drill pocket holes as shown in three side shelves, and drill pocket holes as a mirror image to these in the remaining three side shelves.

Position one side shelf 5-9/16 inches from the top and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position a second shelf 6 7/16 inches from the bottom and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Position a third shelf centered between the first two shelves and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Apply stain to the top, bottom and side shelves. Apply painter’s tape to the painted areas adjacent to these parts before staining.

Step 4: Build the door

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Position the door rails flush with the ends of the door stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the door stile trim 3/4 inches from the outer edges and flush with the ends of the door assembly and attach using glue and #18 x 5/8-inch wire brads.

Measure the distance between the door stile trim and adjust the length of the door rail trim if necessary. Use the pattern below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the door rail trim.

Position the door rail trim flush with the outer edges of the door rails (with the curved area facing in) and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Be sure to apply glue to the ends of the door rail trim and clamp the part in place with the door stile trim until the glue sets as shown.

Mark a 1-3/4-inch x 1-3/4-inch square at the ends of the door stile trim parts. Drill a 3/4-inch hole in the center of each square using a Forstner bit as shown.

Use painter’s tape to mark off each square area, and prime and paint as shown.

Apply glue to the hole and insert a 3/4-inch furniture button. Allow the glue to set.

Apply stain to the remainder of the door, including the inside lip of the door rail trim and door stile trim.

Step 5: Install the mirror

Cut the mirror to the size indicated using a glass cutter, or have it cut to the size at a home improvement center. Cut the mirror backer to fit the opening in the door. Drill three pilot holes for 1-inch screws on the 1/2-inch side of the backer stiles and backer rails as shown.

Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer stiles (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends and edge of the mirror backer and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer rails (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends of the mirror backer and backer stiles and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Place the mirror inside the opening in the door. Place a sheet of newspaper or tissue paper on the mirror back.

Place the mirror backer assembly on top of the mirror and attach the backer stiles and backer rails to the inside of the door stiles and rails using 1-inch screws only, as shown.

Stain and apply polyurethane to the mirror backer assembly.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Attach the door centered on the opening using two hinges. Attach a pull on the door stile. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of the cabinet and the door. Attach the magnetic part to the inside of the cabinet and the plate to the back of the door as shown. Attach two keyhole hangers to the back. Hang on screws appropriate for your wall type.

The original plan can be found at https://www.diynetwork.com

 
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Hairpin Make-up Vanity

Materials List:

  • (2) 1 x 18 x 48″
  • (2) 1 x 4 x 96″
  • (6) *full overlay cup hinges
  • (4) 26″ steel hairpin legs  OR (2) 10′ pieces of 3/8″ steel rod and (4) 3/16 thick steel plates

Cut List:

  • (2) 1 x 18 @ 46″
  • (2) 1 x 4 @ 44″
  • (4) 1 x 4 @ 13 3/4″

Instructions:

Start with your 1 x 18 boards. Of course 18″ is the “nominal” width; they should actually measure 17 1/4″ wide. Cut both boards down to 46″ in length using a either a table saw or a circular saw attached to a cutting guide, like the Kreg Rip-Cut™.

Next, cut the 1 x 4’s to length. On each 13 3/4″ piece, drill 3, evenly spaced pocket holes on the same side on each end.

Take your first 1 x 18, and draw a line 1″ from all 4 sides. Line up the 44″ 1 x 4’s along the line and attach them via 2 1/2″ wood screws from the bottom, making sure to pre-drill and countersink.

Now, attach one of the shorter 1 x 4’s, parallel and flush with the ends of the longer boards, using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Measure 11 7/8″ from the inside of each end board and make a mark. Line up the outer edge of another 13 3/4″ 1 x 4, check for square, and connect with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Repeat the process, measuring from the inside of the other end board. When you are done, you should have two, 11 1/8″ wide sections and one, 17 1/4″ section.

Now, you need to cut the doors. Take the second 1 x 18 board, and measure 14″ from either end and draw a line.  Those lines are where you need to make your cuts. You can do it with a table saw.

The saw blade will remove 1/8″ of material, so when you have made both cuts, you will be left with two 13 15/16″ sections of board and one 17 7/8″ section of board. Don’t panic if your doors aren’t the exact same measurement as mine. As long as you’re close and the two outside doors are the same, you’ll be fine.

At this point, I recommend applying the finish to the vanity box, and both sides of the doors. It will much harder to paint or stain with the doors attached. I gave my wood a cool, medium stain with a couple coats of a dark toner, and sealed everything with 3 coats of lacquer.

To attach the doors, you will need a pair of full overlay cup hinges for each door. I know they sound scary, but they really aren’t too bad! I’m always scared to drill two huge holes into the underside of my door, but the little guide that comes with the drill bit kit makes it easy to line everything up.

Time to address the legs. I made four, 26″ DIY hairpin legs out of pre-cut 3/16″, 8″ steel triangles. I picked up the steel from a local metal supplier and the materials for all four legs only cost me around $24. Google “metal supply” in your area and I guarantee you’ll find a local distributor who is open to the public.

If you’re not feeling like creating DIY hairpin legs, you can definitely buy them. I found a website that sells 26″ height legs with pretty quick turnaround (here).

To attach the legs, flip the vanity over. Line up each leg, 1/8″ from the edge of the wood, and attach with 5/8″ #8 wood screws.

Now you can flip it right side up. Open the middle door and attach a mirror to the underside. I actually used an inexpensive, dollar store mirror left over from another project.

And, you’re done!

I’m really happy with how it turned out!

The original plan can be found at http://www.pneumaticaddict.com

 
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Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

  • 2 -sheets of 3/4″ Cabinet grade plywood cut as shown below.
  • 5 -8′ 1×2 poplar for face frame
  • 1- sheet of 1/2″ plywood for drawers
  • 1- sheet of 1/4″ plywood or backer board (smooth)
  • door and drawer front material (3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make)
  • 1 3/4″ wood screws
  • 1 1/4″ Kreg pocket hole screws
  • wood glue

Step 1:

Secure dividers and sides to bottom with 1 3/4″ wood screws.

Step 2:

Attach long cleats to top.  Drive two screws into each divider.

Step 3:

Attach back cleats using pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Secure bottom.  This second bottom is going to make this big vanity heavy but will add stability and help distribute the weight of the entire piece onto the bun feet.

Step 5:

Square up by checking the diagonal measurement from top left to bottom right and visa versa.  The measurement should be exactly the same.  Doesn’t matter what the number is – just make sure it’s the same. Secure the back with 3/4″ – 1 1/4″ staples or screws.

Step 6:

Build side face frames our of 1×2 poplar (which is really 3/4″ x 1 1/2″) with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.  Make sure to adjust size to fit the side of your vanity specifically.  It should be flush with the front and back (covering the exposed side of back you just attached).

Step 7:

Attach side face frames with glue and small brad nails.

Step 8:

Build front face frame, making sure the placement of the styles (vertical pieces) are in the correct place for YOUR DIY vanity.  Things don’t always turn out exactly like you planned them, even with the best planning so double check your specific dimensions before building your face frame.

Step 9:

Add countertop and feet.  Build your own countertop or buy granite or tile or do concrete, the possibilities are endless.

Step 10: Build Drawers

There are many ways to build a drawer box depending on the tools you have and your level of experience.  Build your drawers paying attention to the outside dimensions.  This will leave 1/2″ clearance for 22″ drawer glides.

 

 

Center Top Drawer Dimensions

 

Center Bottom 2 Drawers

Step 11: 

Build doors and drawer fronts for your double vanity. 3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make

 

Dimensions for false fronts and doors for sides.

Dimensions for center drawer fronts

It should be all ready to paint up, add hardware and use!

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

 
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Bathroom Shelf

Lumber:

  • 3 – 2×2 at 6’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials:

  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 4 – 8” angle brackets
  • 8 – 4″ or 5″ angle brackets
  • Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2×2 at 47-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16” – Shelves

Instructions:

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches and the curve using a jig saw. Apply edge banding, if desired.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Three brackets per shelf will be used.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com

 
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Bathroom Vanity

Build a small bath vanity with storage. These simple, step by step woodworking plans are designed for the beginner and can be built from a single sheet of plywood.

Shopping List: 

  • 1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
  • 1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1×6 @ 4 feet long (optional)
  • 1 – 1×2 – 1/4″ thick stock @ 8 feet long (optional decorative door trim)
  • 1 – 25 foot long roll edge banding for stained finishes
  • 3/4″ finish nails or brad nails if you are applying decorative trim
  • Either pocket hole screws or countersunk screws/finish nails
  • 2 inch screws
  • 1 1/4 inch finish nails
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • Elmer’s Wood Glue
  • Elmer’s Wood Filler
  • 120 grit sandpaper
  • Primer
  • wood conditioner
  • paint
  • paint brush

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 18″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 32″ x 18″
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 30 3/4″ x 12″
  • 2 – 1×6 OR 3/4″ Plywood @ 24″
  • 4 – 1×3 @ 24″
  • Cut trim pieces to fit door faces

Step 1: 

Cut plywood as shown above, with the grain, cutting long cuts first. So you would cut an 18″ wide strip off of your plywood, and then from that 18″ strip, cut the sides and shelf. You can ask the lumber store to make the cuts for you, and your plywood will be easier to transport and store.

Step 2: 

Place the bottom shelf as shown above between the sides, either using the Kreg Jig or countersunk screws or 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 3: 

Attach the 1x3s as shown above. The front 1×3 needs to be placed with a 4″ space above it. The back 1x3s need to be placed at the top, bottom of the bottom shelf, and centered.

Step 4: 

Now the toe kick. Cut out and attach with 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 5: 

Now the front apron. Same thing.

Step 6: 

For the front apron, you can glue and attach the 1/4″ trim pieces as shown above.

Step 7 Instructions: 

And the doors. You can attach trim pieces as well. The best hinges I’ve found for doors like these (full overlay) are these ones from the Home Depot

Preparation Instructions: 

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com

 
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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

  • 2 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
  • 2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
  • Waterproof Wood Glue
  • Galvanized staples

Step 1:

It is easier to do the major sanding before cutting this lumber. Start with a very rough grit, 36 or 50,  to take off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then graduate up through the grits until they are nice and smooth. Cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges and remove any loose knots or damaged wood.

Step 2: Make Cuts

Rip two strips of the pickets 4” wide, then chop them to your desired length. Make a 4 inch by 3 1/2 inch cut out at each end of both pickets. These will form the arms and box for the caddy. Next cut 7″ slats from the lattice, you will need 14 for plan dimensions, but adjust per your specs.

Step 3: Assembly

Attach the lattice slats with wood glue and staples. Start by attaching the 2 slats at each end and getting the caddy square.  Then space the rest along the bottom 1/2” apart (or adjust to your measurements)

Step 4:

Once the caddy is dry, do a final sanding just to round off the edges of the slats and clean up any glue or clamp marks. You know, just make sure that it is nice and smooth everywhere because of that whole NO SLIVERS IN THE BATHTUB rule.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

  • 1 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
  • 2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
  • Waterproof Wood Glue
  • Galvanized or stainless steel staples

Fence pickets are not the highest quality lumber, so try to find boards that are as straight and as smooth as possible. Avoid boards that have loose knots, are warped, splitting, etc. When I started on my second bath caddy I discovered that Home Depot does not always carry the cedar lattice, so I had to get my lattice from a lumber yard.  Most lumber yards that carry fencing will have both the lattice and pickets. You might want to make a few calls in your area to find who has what, and cut down on the run around.

Step 1: Prep the wood

It is easier to do the major sanding before cutting this lumber. Start with a very rough grit, 36 or 50,  to take off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then graduate up through the grits until they are nice and smooth. Cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges and remove any loose knots or damaged wood.

Step 2: Make Cuts

Here is the cut list for the caddy that I made, My tub has a strong oval shape so I have one handle that is 2 inches longer than the other. Measure the tub that you are making your caddy for and adjust as needed. Rip two strips of the fence picket that are 1” and cut to the desired width of your tub handles. Rip another strip that is 1 1/2” wide and cut it into two pieces that will be the length of the box of your caddy.  Cut the lattice into 7” slats. For a 22 1/2″ box you will need 12 slats, but adjust to your specs.

Decide if you want your handles rounded or square. I like mine rounded, but depending on the tub the square can look cool too. Square or rounded, make sure to sand all edges and surfaces and clean up any splinters from cutting.—Nobody wants to get a sliver in the bathtub!

Step 3: Assembly

Start by creating the caddy box. Staple the slats to the sides and make sure to get the box square and flat. I don’t recommend using brad nails on the lattice as it will split easily.

Use waterproof wood glue and galvanized or stainless staples, these will stand up to the water and humidity of a bathroom. If you don’t have galvanized staples you can just glue and use clamps and/or weights but you will need to wait for the glue to dry up quite a bit between steps—and you know how much I love waiting for glue to dry! It does give you a cleaner look without the staples though.

Note: when making this caddy I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle. I thought it would look cool, but after finishing I decided that I would much prefer for the box to just be square. This is why the final pics look a bit different from the plans.  I think it’s much better to do square ends, it will look cleaner and it’s a little easier.

Now glue and staple all of the lattice slats along the bottom of the caddy box. To get perfectly spaced slats cut scraps of wood to use as spacers (1/2 inch for given dimensions).

Step 4: Attach the handles

Center the caddy box onto the handles, glue and clamp in several places or use weights to secure the box to the handles.

For this step I used glue only, as I didn’t want staples, nails, or screws in the top of my handles. If you want, you could nail or screw up from the bottom, but be very careful not to go too far up or get crooked and mar the face of your handles or box.  The wood glue alone will be plenty strong as long as you get it tight together while it dries.

Step 5:

Once the caddy is dry, do a final sanding just to round off the edges of the slats and clean up any glue or clamp marks. You know, just make sure that it is nice and smooth everywhere because of that whole NO SLIVERS IN THE BATHTUB rule.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

  • 1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, #1327
  • 4 – 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, #1332
  • 1/4 x 36 square poplar dowel, #27546
  • #17 x 1-in brads
  • Valspar signature paint, Brushed Almond

 

Click to Enlargen

Step 1:

Cut two tray supports (A) to lengths that equal the outside width of your tub. If your tub is mounted against a wall on one side, cut the support short enough to avoid bumping against the wall.

Step 2:

Measure the inside width of the tub and subtract 1 inch. Subtract that dimension from the length of the tray supports and divide the result in half to mark in from the ends of each tray support. Using a ruler and compass set to a 1/2-inch radius, mark the tray support notches on both ends of one tray support as shown on the Bathtub Caddy Project Diagram.

Step 3:

Tape the two tray supports together with the ends flush and begin by cutting the long line with a jigsaw. Stop when you reach the curve, turn off the saw and remove the blade.

Step 4:

From the edges of the supports, jigsaw up to and around the curve. Remove the tape and sand the cut marks smooth. Sand the tray supports with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges and ends.

Step 5:

From a 1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, cut two tray ends (B) 11-1/4 inches long. Sand both parts smooth and soften the edges but not the ends.

Step 6:

From 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, cut four tray bottom slats (C) 22 inches long. (If this is too long to fit your tray supports, you can instead cut them to a length equal to the bottom of the notches minus 8 inches.) Sand the slats and soften the edges and ends.

Step 7:

Cut seven spacers about 3 inches long from a 1/4-inch square dowel. On a flat work surface, lay the four bottom slats side by side with the ends flush and separated with 1/4-inch spacers and a spacer along the outside edge of one outside slat. Apply glue to the face of all four slats at one end and clamp the tray end to the slats with 1/4-inch overhangs on each end. After the glue dries, repeat to install the other tray end. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and drive 1-inch brads to reinforce the glue joints.

Step 8:

Center the tray along the length of the tray supports and mark its position. Glue and clamp the tray ends to the supports. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and reinforce the glue joints with 1-inch brads. Then fill the nail holes with putty and let dry.

Step 9:

Sand the completed caddy with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and wipe clean. Apply two coats of paint (Brushed Almond shown).

The original plan can be found at https://www.lowes.com

 
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