bed – Woodworkers Resource

Simple Cottage Headboard

Materials

1×2 primed MDF boards (try to buy pre-primed)
1×4 primed MDF boards
1 sheet of 3/4″ 4′ x 8′ MDF
Bolts, nuts and washers to attach the headboard to the bed frame (about 2 inches long)

Cut List

For a king-size bed: (illustrated below)
(5) 1x2s at 45 1/2″ (interior vertical boards)
(6) 1x2s at 10 15/16″ (horizontal interior boards)
(2) 1x4s at 49″ (sides)
(1) 1×4 at 73″ (top)
(1) sheet (49″ x 97″) of MDF particleboard, cut at 80″ (backing)
For a queen-size bed:
(5) 1×2 at 45 1/2″
(6) 1×2 at 7 9/16″
(2) 1×4 at 49″
(1) 1×4 at 53″
(1) sheet (49″ x 97″) of MDF particleboard, cut at 60″
For a twin-size bed:
(4) 1×2 at 45 1/2″
(5) 1×2 at 5 13/16″
(2) 1×4 at 49″
(1) 1×4 at 35″
(1) sheet (49″ x 97″) of MDF particleboard, cut at 42″

We modeled this headboard from one we saw in a popular home-decor catalog. It is very simple to build — standard-size lumber is fastened to a large piece of plywood, then the whole piece is painted white.

Step 1:

Cut and Dry Fit

Cut all the pieces to size. (We are using king-size measurements for our project.) Lay out all the pieces to make sure they all fit together correctly.

Step 2:

Attach the Outer Pieces

Apply adhesive on the back of one of the side pieces (49″ 1×4) and adhere to left side of the MDF plywood. Repeat for the right side of the headboard.

Apply adhesive on the 73″ 1×4 and adhere to the top of the MDF plywood; place it in between the side boards.

Step 3:

Attach the Interior Pieces

Place adhesive on the back of an interior horizontal board and then place it on the plywood along the appropriate pencil marks. Apply adhesive on the back of an interior vertical board, place it against the horizontal board on the top and match it up with your pencil marks. Repeat the process until all boards are placed.

Step 4:

Finish and Paint

After the adhesive has had time to set up, fill in all gaps with wood filler (follow manufacturer’s recommendation for drying time). When the filler has dried, sand all areas until smooth. Wipe off all the dust and residue. Prime and paint the headboard.

Step 5:

Attach Headboard to Bed Frame

Measure the distance up from the floor to the bolt holes on the bed frame and measure how far in the holes should be placed on the headboard. Drill holes in the headboard big enough for the bolts to pass through using the measurements. Attach the headboard to the bed frame with bolts, nuts and washers, and tighten enough to secure.

The original plan can be found at https://www.diynetwork.com

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Monica Headboard

Materials:

1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
1-1/4″ brad nails
Wood glue
Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

For a Queen sized headboard:

1 – 1×4 at 6′
1 – 1×6 at 6′
3 – 2×4 at 6′
1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

2 – 2×4 at 51-1/4″ – Legs
1 – 2×4 at 58″ – Lower Stretcher
1 – 3/4″ plywood at 32″ x 58″ – Headboard Panel
1 – 1×4 at 65″ – Top Trim
1 – 1 x at 1″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim
1 – 1x at 2-1/4″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim

STEP ONE:

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretcher, and panel. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges of the panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the panel will be flush with the front face of the legs.

STEP TWO:

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the top of the legs and the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

STEP THREE:

Cut the 1×6 board to 65” long. Using the router and a decorative bit of your choice, cut a decorative edge on each long side of the board. Rip a 1″ wide piece off of the 1×6 for one of the trim pieces, then rip the remaining piece to 2-1/4″ wide. Secure the wider trim to the front of the headboard under the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then layer the narrower piece on top.

Finish as desired.Secure the headboard to the wall or the bed frame. If securing the headboard to the bed frame, additional holes may have to be drilled.

To make the headboard wider for a king size, add 16″ in length to the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel. To make the headboard narrower for a full size bed, subtract 6″ in length from the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel.

The original plan can be found at http://designsbystudioc.com/

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Shim Headboard

There’s no cutting needed to make these textured and colorful headboard panels. Just assemble with glue and paint them to match your bedroom decor.

Materials

¼ x 24 x 48 birch plywood panels
11 – wood shim packs of 12
Large D-ring hangers, pack of 4
Valspar spray paint

Instructions:

You can hang these panels vertically or horizontally, depending on the look you want and the size of your mattress. For example, three panels hung vertically and spaced about 14 inches apart will span the width of a king-size mattress, while a single panel hung horizontally will span a twin mattress. For a queen-size mattress, space three panels 6 inches apart. For a double or full-size mattress, space the three panels 3 inches apart.

Step 1:

Cut a 24 x 48 panel into three 16 x 24 pieces. If you don’t have a circular saw or table saw, have a Lowe’s associate cut the plywood for you.

Step 2:

On a 16 x 24 panel, begin by gluing a shim in each corner in a pinwheel pattern. The edges and ends of the shims should be flush with the edges of the panel. Allow these pieces to dry for an hour before you continue.

Step 3:

Fill in the remaining boundary shims, keeping the overlaps as identical as possible from side to side and top to bottom.

Step 4:

Begin filling in the rest of the panel by adding two shims running the opposite direction of two end shims. Add weights while each row dries for about 20 minutes. Then continue adding shims, alternating their direction by row, and applying weight to each row until you reach the top. Repeat for the remaining panels and allow the glue to dry overnight before painting.

Step 5:

Spray two coats of paint on the front and sides, varying the spray angles to reach into the recessed areas of the shims. Then paint the back. Painting the back isn’t necessary for appearance, but it will help keep the panel from warping or twisting from moisture changes.

Step 6:

If you hang the panels vertically, screw a D-ring hanger centered along the top edge on the back of the panel. For a horizontal panel, use two D-ring hangers. Repeat for the remaining panels.

The original plan can be found at https://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/bed-and-bath/custom-shim-headboard/project#noop

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Window Headboard

Materials:

(1) 2x4x8’ Lumber
(4) 2x3x8’ Lumber
(5) 1x2x8’ Lumber
White Paint
Pocket Hole Screws

Cut List:

1 – 2×4 @ 75” long (horizontal support on very bottom)
2 – 2×3 @ 75” long (top and bottom horizontal of headboard)
2 – 2×3 @ 55” long (Side pieces)
10 – 1×2 @ 9” long (horizontal part of “window”)
10 – 1×2 @ 18 ½” long (vertical part of “window”)
10 – 1×2 @ 6” long (for top and bottom of “window”)
6 – 1×2 @ 5” long (in between windows)

Step 1:

Lay out lumber in shape of the headboard as a dry fit. Put the good sides of the lumber (the sides you want to show) face down. Mark the back sides so you know which side to drill the pocket hole into.

Step 2:

Drill pocket holes using jig.

Step 3:

Screw headboard together. This is where math and a right angle are handy and sand.

Step 4:

Prime. We used FastPrime2. It was in our basement. It works. I applied it with a brush and a mini-roller. It took FOREVER because there are A LOT of corners. It won’t look pretty after the prime…don’t get discouraged. 2 coats of paint. We used Olympic Zero VOC Premium white, semi-gloss. This paint is great. It doesn’t smell, is good for the environment, covers well…and did I mention it doesn’t smell. Attach to your bed frame using bolts, nuts, and washers (we used some we dug up in our basement) that are long enough to go through the wood and attach to your bed frame.

The original plan can be found at https://decorandthedog.net/decorandthedog/2011/01/headboard-how-to.html

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Rustic Headboard

Creating a weathered and distressed look starts with lumber selection. It may be counterintuitive, but when picking lumber for this project you’ll want to look for imperfections such as knots, gouges and nicks. However, do select boards that are straight and true.

This project uses pocket-hole joinery. If you’re not familiar with it, take a look at the basics.

Cut List:

Use the dimensions listed as a guide, but be sure to double check measurements as you build and make adjustments before you cut the parts.

sub footer (1) – 3/4 x 4 x 64-1/2
footer (1) – 3/4 x 4-3/4 x 66
sub header (1) – 3/4 x 4-3/4 x 64-1/2
header (1) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 66
front stiles (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 50
side stiles (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 50
rails (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 58
long slats (9) – 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 61-1/2
short slats (8) – 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 30-3/4
headboard cleat (1) – 3/4 x 3-1/16* x 63
wall cleat (1) – 3/4 x 3-1/16* x 63
*at the widest point

The finished dimensions (as shown in Image 2) are 53″ high x 66″ wide x 5-1/2″ deep.

Step 1: Build the header and footer assemblies

Position the sub footer flush against one edge and centered (3/4 inch from the ends) on the footer as shown in Image 1.

Attach the sub footer to the footer using glue and #17 x 1-1/4-inch wire brads as shown in Image 2.

Position the sub header as shown in Image 3 (3/4 inch from the edge and end). Attach using glue and wire brads.

Step 2: Build the stile assemblies

Use above image as a guide for drilling pocket holes in the front stiles and side stiles.

Position the side stiles flush with the inside edge of the front stiles as shown in above image and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown below.

Step 3: Attach the rails to the stiles

Use the top image as a guide for drilling pocket holes in the rails.

Position the rails flush with the ends of the front stiles as shown above and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown below. This assembly is the frame.

Step 4: Attach the frame to the header and footer

Position one end of the frame with the back edge of the side stiles placed 3/4 inch from the end and back of the sub header as shown above and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown below. Be sure to clamp the assemblies in place before joining them.

Position the other end of the frame with the back edge of the side stiles placed 3/4 inch from the end of the sub foot and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. Be sure to clamp the assemblies in place before joining them.

Step 5: Attach the slats

Starting at the footer assembly end, begin alternating placing the long slats and short slats (cut from tongue-and-groove pine) as shown in above images. Attach the slats to the front rails using glue and 1-1/4-inch wire brads as shown below.

If you have trouble placing the grooves on the tongues of mating parts, try using a cutoff of the tongue-and-groove pine to use as a guide, as shown in the first image below. Note that the last long slat placed will leave a gap a couple of inches wide near the sub header, as shown in the very bottom image.

Step 6: Distress the project

There are many methods for distressing lumber to give it an aged and “well-loved” appearance. Beyond the step mentioned in the beginning of selecting boards with imperfections, you can essentially “beat up” a project. Use a scrap length of chain to add dents and nicks. For deeper dents, use a hammer (Above images).

To create the look of wormholes, use an awl or ice pick as shown in top image. Try creating holes in different angles as well. Create worn or chipped edges by cutting notches using a pocket knife or utility knife as shown above.

Wear down random spots using a sander as shown above. It’s hard to give a weathered appearance to new boards, such as the lumber we use here, but you can cheat that gray patina by diluting dark gray paint and applying it as you would a stain. Add water and the paint to a quart-size container and test the finish on pieces of scrap cut from this project until you get the look you desire. Apply a coat of polyurethane when finished.

Step 7: Make and Attach the cleat

Mark a centerline across the end of a 1×6. Mark the center point of this line and draw a 45-degree angle that bisects this center point. Set the saw blade on your table saw at 45 degrees, then set the fence on your table saw so that the 45-degree mark lines up with the saw blade. Rip the 1×6 to create the headboard cleat and wall cleat, as in top image.

Use above image as a guide for drilling vertical pocket holes on the widest face of the headboard cleat at 2 inches from each end, 18 inches from each end and centered.

Position the headboard cleat flush against the sub head and the outside edges of the side stiles and clamp in place. Attach the headboard cleat to the sub header using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown in Image 3. Attach the headboard cleat to the side rails using glue and the side stiles using glue and 1-1/4-inch brads. Apply a finish to the ends of the headboard cleat and wall cleat.

Step 8: Install the headboard

Position the headboard assembly in the desired location, flush against the wall to which you plan to install it.

Place the wall cleat flush underneath and against the headboard cleat as shown above. Mark the position of the wall cleat.

Use a level to square the cleat and attach it to the studs in your wall using 3-1/2-inch screws, as shown above. (The drywall is transparent to illustrate the position of the studs.)

Image below indicates how the headboard cleat (shown here unattached for clarity) will fit on the wall cleat.

The original plan can be found at http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/carpentry-and-woodworking/how-to-make-a-rustic-style-headboard

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Rustic Headboard

Materials:

Board Size	King	California King	Queen	Full	Twin
1x2	2 @ 8'	2 @ 8'	2 @ 8'	2 @ 8'	2 @ 8'
1x3	7 @ 8'	7 @ 8'	7 @ 8'	7 @ 8'	7 @ 8'
1x4	9 @ 8'	9 @ 8'	4 @ 10' 1 @ 6'	4 @ 10' 1 @ 6'	4 @ 8' 1 @ 4'
1x6	3 @ 8'	3 @ 8'	3 @ 6'	1 @ 10' 1 @ 6'	1 @ 12'
2x4	1 @ 8'	1 @ 8'	1 @ 8'	1 @ 8'	1 @ 8'

Cut List:

	King	California King	Queen	Full	Twin
Dimensions	81 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall	77 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall	65 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall	49 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall	44 1/2" Wide x 57 1/4" Tall
Leg Pieces	6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long	6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long	6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long	6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long	6 - 1x3 cut at 55" long
Inside leg Piece	2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long	2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long	2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long	2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long	2 - 1x2 cut at 55" long
Smaller Panel Pieces	5 - 1x4 cut at 76" long	5 - 1x4 cut at 72" long	5 - 1x4 cut at 60" long	5 - 1x4 cut at 54" long	5 - 1x4 cut at 39" long
Larger Panel Pieces	3 - 1x6 cut at 76" long	3 - 1x6 cut at 72" long	3 - 1x6 cut at 60" long	3 - 1x6 cut at 54" long	3 - 1x6 cut at 39" long
Panel Trim, Front and Back	4 -1x4 cut at 74" long	4 - 1x4 cut at 70" long	4 - 1x4 cut at 58" long	4 - 1x4 cut at 52" long	4 - 1x4 cut at 37" long
Top Trim	1 - 1x3 cut at 80 1/2" long	1 - 1x3 cut at 76 1/2" long	1 - 1x3 cut at 64 1/2" long	1 - 1x3 cut at 48 1/2" long	1 - 1x3 cut at 43 1/2" long
Top	1 - 2x4 cut at 81 1/2" long	1 - 2x4 cut at 77 1/2" long	1 - 2x4 cut at 65 1/2" long	1 - 2x4 cut at 49 1/2" long	1 - 2x4 cut at 44 1/2" long

Step 1: Assemble front leg

Apply glue to one side of a 1×2 inside leg piece. Lay the 1×2, glue side down, on top of a 1×3 leg piece, lining up outside edge and ends. Nail the 1×2 to the 1×3 every 6-8 inches with 1-1/4 inch nails. Build two of these legs as illustrated above. Tip: As you nail down boards, adjust boards to keep outside edges flush.

Step 2: Attach panel boards

Beginning at the top of the headboard, apply glue to ends of a 1×4 panel board. Lay 1×4 panel board on top of legs, and nail down with 1-1/4 inch nails. Use two nails on each end, nailing both sides of panel boards to the legs as illustrated above. Nail remaining panel boards to the legs, using glue and 1-1/4 inch nails, referencing the pattern above for alternating 1x4s and 1x6s. Tip: For increased rustic character, chisel or distress panel boards prior to nailing to the legs, focusing on edges to enhance the planked headboard look.

Step 3: Attach leg pieces

Apply glue to one side of two 1×3 leg pieces and place on headboard legs as shown in illustration. Nail every six to eight inches using 2-inch nails, making sure to keep top and outside edges flush.

Step 4: Attach panel trim

Trim the headboard tops and bottoms by applying glue to 1×4 panel trim boards and nailing panel trim boards to the tops and bottoms of both sides of headboard. Use 1-1/4 inch nails and keep outside edges flush.

Step 5: Attach outside trim

With headboard facedown (the front of the headboard will have minimal nails showing), apply glue then nail remaining two leg pieces to the sides of legs. Keep the front edge flush, but the back may have a slight overhang. Use 2-inch nails every 6-8 inches.

Step 6: Attach top trim

Apply glue to the top of the headboard. Line top trim piece up with outer leg piece and nail down, nailing every six to eight inches. Keep front and outside edges flush.

Step 7: Attach top of headboard

Apply glue to the top of the headboard. Overhang or elevate the headboard so that you can center the 2×4 top piece on the headboard with a 1/2-inch overhang on all sides. Nail every six to eight inches with 2-inch nails.

Tip: For a king-size headboard, scrap wood can be cut and nailed perpendicular to the planks to keep planks in place.

Step 8: Finish headboard

Fill nail holes with wood filler. Let filler dry then sand headboard with 80-grit sandpaper. Fill nail holes again — wood filler can shrink when dry. Sand again, this time with 120-grit sandpaper. Finally, sand with 150-grit sandpaper.

Vacuum headboard with a soft-bristled brush attachment to remove sanding residue then wipe the surface with a damp washcloth. In a well-ventilated area, lightly coat the headboard with spray-on primer, following instructions on spray can. Let dry completely.

Brush on paint, working in the direction of wood grain. Apply two coats, allowing ample time for each coat to fully dry. To distress, rough up edges with sandpaper. Chisel between the plank boards to expose the cracks between the panel boards. Apply glaze to distressed areas and wipe off until desired look is achieved. Spray with clear coat to seal your headboard.

Step 9: Attach to bed frame

Follow the directions on your bed frame to attach headboard to the bed frame.

Step 10: (Option) Stain headboard

The beauty of the solid wood used to build this headboard can be preserved by choosing a stained finish. This headboard was finished with two coats of a dark walnut oil-based stain, topped with satin oil-based polyurethane.

The original plan can be found at http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/make-and-decorate/decorating/how-to-build-a-rustic-wood-headboard

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Barn Door Headboard

Dimensions:

Materials:

8 1×4, 8’ Long
2 1x2s, 8’ Length
3 1×3, 8’ Length
1 1/4” Finish Nails
2” Finish Na

Cut List:

18- 1×4 @ 31” Panel Boards
2 – 1×2 @ 49 1/2 “ Side Legs
2 – 1×3 @ 49 1/2” Front Legs
2 – 1×3 @ 38 1/2” Back Supports
2 – 1×4 @ 38 1/2” Front Trim
1 – 1×4 @ 26” Center Trim
1 – 1×3 @ 44” Top Trim
1 – 1×4 @ 45” Top Trim
2 – 1×4 @ 30” Ends cut at 30 degrees off square, parallel, see last step

Step 1:

Headboard Panel

Start by lining all the 1×4 panel boards up, rotating the grain so the bark side is up, then down. Adjust for square. Then if you have a nailer, glue and nail the top and bottom trim in place. Otherwise, screw from the back to hide your screw holes. Shown above back side up, so you would just screw through the trim into the back side of the panel boards.

Step 2:

Legs

Now screw the legs on with glue and 2″ screws.

Step 3:

Leg Fronts

Nailer would be handy here, but if you don’t have one, you can screw the leg fronts to the legs. Use glue and 2″ screws or nails.

Step 4:

Front Trim

I highly recommend measuring and cutting these to fit. Nails would hide best, and even if you don’t have a nailer, if you plan to stain, I suggest using a hammer and finish nails to hide any holes. If you plan to paint, go ahead with the screws and glue.

Step 5:

Center

Mark the center and use 1 1/4″ fasteners and glue to attach.

Step 6:

Top Trim

Now add the top trim with screws or nails and glue. Center on the top.

Step 7:

Header

Use finish nails and glue to attach the top to the top trim. Center on the top.

Step 8:

Cross Supports

Start by cutting 2 1x4s 36 3/4″ long, with both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, parallel to each other. Then on the top end, measure in 2″ and mark a line square with the top edge (see above diagram). Cut this line. Attach the cross supports to the headboard with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue, nailing into all of the panel boards.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com/2010/11/brookstone-queen-headboard

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