Bathroom – Page 2 – Woodworkers Resource

Medicine Cabinet

Cabinetry and casework are fundamental to making built-ins and bookcases. This small wall-hung cabinet is a useful item for bathroom or kitchen, and it is a great project for a beginning carpenter to develop some basic cabinetry skills. It is also extremely inexpensive to make.

The entire case, including the top, can be built from an 8-ft.- long piece of 1 × 10 wood (you’ll need a little extra material for the shelving and the towel rod). The mitered frames applied to the fronts of the door give the look and feel of a raised panel door, without any of the fuss. We built the version of the cabinet you see here out of No. 2 and better pine and then gave it an orangey maple finish. You can choose any lumber you like for this, even sheet stock such as mdF, and apply a clear or a painted finish. For a traditional look, choose a white enamel paint. Be sure and apply several thin coats of polyurethane varnish, especially if the cabinet will be installed in a wet area like a bathroom.

Step 1: Cut the Top Board to 19 1/2″

Shape a decorative profile into the top using a router and piloted ogee bit. Do not remove more than 3/4″ of material along the bottom edges.

Step 2: Cut the stock for both doors to length

Sand them smooth. The final width of the material should be 9″. Once the stock is prepared, cut the doors to length.

Step 3: Photocopy the Pattern + Make a Hardboard Template Guide

Click to Enlargen

Cut the stock for the cabinet sides to width (7½”) or select a piece of 1 × 8 stock and simply sand the edges. Photocopy the pattern and use it to make a hardboard template guide to trace the profile onto the bottom of one cabinet side.

Step 4: Cut Out the Profile Using a Jigsaw

Clamp the two sides together so the ends and edges all are flush. Then, cut out the profile in both pieces at once using a jigsaw.

Step 5: Locate the Center point for Drilling the Dowel Hole

Locate the center point for drilling the ¾”-dia. dowel hole for the towel rod. Drill the hole with a ¾” spade bit, making sure to slip a backer board underneath the bottom board to prevent tearout when the bit exits the work piece

Step 6: Apply Wood Glues to the Ends of All Three Parts

Lay the side boards on a flat surface, lying parallel and on their back edges. Cut the 1 × 2 cleat and the 7″-wide shelves to length (16½”). Then, apply wood glue to the ends of all three parts and clamp them between the cabinet sides.

Step 7: Reinforce the Glued Joints

Before the glue sets (about 15 minutes) drive three 6d finish nails through the cabinet sides and into each shelf end. Drive a pair of nails into the wall cleat.

Step 8: Insert the Towel Rod Into the Holes in the Cabinet Sides

Glue the ends of the towel rod into the holes in the cabinet sides and then pin it in place with a finish nail driven through the back edge of each side.

Step 9: Miter the Corners of Molding

Miter the corners of screen retainer molding and nail and glue decorative frames to the door fronts.

Step 10: Apply finish or Paint to the cabinet doors

Apply your finish or paint the cabinet before you hang the doors and install the cabinet top.

Step 11: Hang the cabinet doors

Use care to position the doors so the outside edges are flush with the outer faces of the cabinets sides. The tops should be about 1/8″ below the top edges of the cabinet sides. Hang the cabinet doors with 1½” brushed chrome or nickel butt hinges

Step 12: Attach the finished cabinet top

Attach the top by driving a few finish nails through it and into the top edges of the cabinet sides, as well as into the top edges of the wall cleat.

Step 13: Hang the cabinet

Locate wall studs in the installation area. Where possible, position the cabinet so it hits two studs. Attach the cabinet with wood screws driven through the wall cleat and into the studs.

The original plan can be found at https://www.blackanddecker.com

[email_link]

Medicine Cabinet

Materials:

1/4″ x 4′ x 8′ Oak (or other hardwood) Plywood: One Piece for the Back and Door Panels
3/4″ x 6″ x 8′ Solid Oak Material: Three pieces

Step 1: Cut and Assemble the Cabinet Box Pieces – Determine the desired size of the Medicine Cabinet

Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 5.25″ x 30″; for the Sides
Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 5.25″ x 28.25″; for the Top and Bottom Panels
Select the Sides, Top, and Bottom Panels; Dado the back/inside edges 1/4″ Deep x 3/8″ to receive the Back Panel
Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut three pieces @ 5″ x 28.25″; for the Shelves
Select the 3/4″x 6″ Oak Material; Cut one piece @ 3″ x 28.25″; for the Nailing Brace
Using the Kreg System, drill holes on all surfaces indicated above, sand all surfaces, and complete the Box Assembly

Step 2: Cut and Assemble the Face Frame and Back Panel – Select the 3/4″ Oak Material and 1/4″ Plywood

Select the 3/4″ Oak Material; Cut two pieces @ 1.5″ x 30″ for the Right/Left sides; Cut two pieces @ 1.5″ x 26.75″ for the Top and Bottom Rails; Cut one piece @ 27″ for the Center Board
Select the five Face Frame pieces; Dry-fit the pieces on a flat surface with the reverse side up; Pre-drill two Kregg holes in each end of the pieces and sand, as shown above.

Use the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig system; drill the holes at the edges of the Frame Pieces, as shown above.

Select the five Face Frame pieces; Connect the pieces with the Kreg Screws
Select the Face Frame Assembly; Connect the Frame Assembly to the Cabinet Box front edge with Kreg Screws through the pre-drilled Kreg holes on the pieces of the Cabinet Box
Select the 1/4″ Oak Plywood; Cut one piece @ 29″ x 29.25″ for the Back Panel; Connect the Back Panel to the reverse side of the cabinet with 1″ screws or brads

Step 3: Make and Attach the Cabinet Doors – Select the 3/4″ Solid Oak Material and Plywood

Select the 3/4″ Oak Material; Cut four pieces @ 1.5″ x 29.5″ (45 degree corners) for the sides; Cut four pieces @ 1.5″ x 13.75″ (45 degree corners) for the top/bottom door rails
Select the Oak Material door pieces; Select a router bit design of choice and router both edges of the exterior sides
Select the Oak Material door pieces; Using a 1/4″ Dado blade, make a 3/8″ deep cut, centered on the interior edges of all eight pieces to receive the Door Panel, as shown above
Select the Oak Plywood; Cut two pieces @ 27.25″ x 11.5″ for the Door Panels
Select the Door Pieces; Dry-fit the pieces; Sand all pieces; Assemble the Doors with Glue and tack the corners
Select the Door Assemblies; Apply hinges of choice, and attach to the Cabinet Face Frame

Step 4: Finish the Medicine Cabinet – Select the Finishing Materials

Use Wood Filler for all holes
Complete all sanding
Apply a minimum of three coats of poly

The original plan can be found at http://www.woodworkingcorner.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Make full use of your bathroom space by building a sleek storage cabinet that also doubles as a full-length mirror. This bathroom mirror storage cabinet is 5 ½” deep on the inside, 24” wide and 60” tall, with adjustable shelving to easily fit products of any height. You can tackle this project in one afternoon.

Materials:

(4) 1 x 6 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
(3) 1 x 4 Pine Boards, 8’ Long
1/4 x 24 x 96” Fir Plywood
(28) 1 1/2” Bugle-Head Screws
(32) 1” Bugle-Head Screws
(8) 3” Bugle-Head Screws
(8) 1 1/2” Pocket-Hole Screws
(80) 5/8” Hinge Screws (typically included with packaged hinge)
1 1/2 x 60” Brass Piano Hinge
(20) 3/8” Shelf Pegs
120-Grit Sandpaper
180-Grit Sandpaper
3/8” Drill Bit
1/8” Drill Bit
Pocket Hole Jig + Piloting Bit
Single-Strength Mirror (approx. 17 x 53”)
Mirror Adhesive
Masking Tape
Wood Glue
Clamps

Cut List:

1×6 Boards:

(2) pieces, 60” long for the sides
(2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom
(5) pieces, 22 3/8” long for the shelves

1×4 Boards:

(2) pieces, 60” long for the sides of the door
(2) pieces, 17” long for the top and bottom of the door
(2) pieces, 22 1/2” long for the top and bottom back rails

Step 1: Build the box

Place the two 60” 1 x 6 side pieces on-edge, parallel to each other. Apply wood glue to the ends of the two 22 1/2” 1 x 6 pieces, and place them flush between the sides at the top and bottom to form a rectangular frame. Use a drill and a 1/8” drill bit to drill three evenly spaced, 3/8” pilot holes from each end of the side pieces. Drive 1 1/2” screws through the sides and into the end pieces to assemble the cabinet box.

TIP: Depending on what type of screw you’re using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.

Step 2: Attach the back rails

Apply wood glue to the back of the 22 1/2” 1 x 4 back rail, and place it inside the cabinet box frame, flush at the back and the top of the frame. Drill pilot holes through the sides and top of the box to penetrate into the back rail. Attach the back rail using eight 1 1/2” screws. Install the second back rail in the same position on the bottom of the box.

Step 3: Drill holes for adjustable shelves

Use a 3/8” drill bit to drill two vertical rows of holes on the inside faces of the box sides, 1” from the front and back edges. Space each pair of holes 2” apart vertically, and drill the holes 1/2” deep.

TIP: Place a piece of masking tape ½” above the drill bit. This will help indicate the depth of the holes.

Step 4: Build the door

Build the door facedown. Use a pocket-hole jig, piloting bit and drill two pocket holes in both ends of the two 17” pieces of 1 x 4. Apply wood glue to the ends of the 17” pieces, and place them flush between the two 60” pieces of 1 x 4. Add clamps to the joint and then screw the door frame together with 1 1/2” pocket hole screws, using the screwdriver. Measure the overall width and length of the door frame. Cut a piece of 1/4” fir plywood to the frame’s dimensions. Apply glue and screw the plywood to the back of the door, with 1” screws spaced 6” apart.

TIPS:

Pocket holes are angular holes that allow you to join two flat pieces of wood together at 90°. Pocket holes are made with a small jig that positions the bit to penetrate through the end of one piece into the side of a corresponding piece.

It’s helpful to clamp the joints of the door together while joining them with screws. Add additional clamps to keep the door flat.

Step 5: Order the mirror

Measure the recess inside the door frame and subtract 3/16” from the width and length. Order a single-strength mirror to the measured dimensions.

Step 6: Sand and finish

Use 120-grit sandpaper to sand the cabinet box, shelves and door. Round over all the corners and edges. Apply the stain or paint and allow it to dry as directed. Seal the stained wood with two coats of aerosol lacquer, hand-sanding in between coats with 180-grit sandpaper.

Step 7: Install the mirror

Place the door face up on a flat surface. Apply mirror adhesive liberally to the plywood. Set the mirror into the opening. Place books or other similar items on the mirror to aid adhesion. Allow the adhesive to dry as directed.

Step 8: Hang the door

Use a 1 ½” x 60” piano hinge to the side of the cabinet box, using 5/8” screws. Place the door on the cabinet and screw the other half of the hinge to the side of the door.

Step 9: Hang the cabinet

Locate at least two wall studs in the desired location for the cabinet. Fit the cabinet on the wall. Make sure the cabinet is level. Anchor the cabinet to the wall through the top and bottom back rails with 3” screws driven into the wall studs.

Step 10: Install the shelves

Place 3/8” shelf pegs in corresponding shelf-peg holes. Insert the shelves in the cabinet, resting them on top of the pegs. You can store toiletries, beauty products, folded towels and other small bathroom items on the shelves.

The original plan can be found at https://www.blackanddecker.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Need more than just a mirror in a small or half bath? This project will give you a mirror and a good bit of storage. It’s perfect over a pedestal sink or vanity. The finished dimensions are 25 1/2″ tall x 24″ wide x 7 1/4″ deep.

This project uses pocket-hole joinery in a couple of steps. If you’re not familiar with it, take a look at the basics.

Cut List:

main shelf (1) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 15-1/2
sides – (2) – 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 24
back (1) – 3/4 x 23 x 24
top (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
bottom (1) – 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 24
face frame rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 14
face frame stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 24
side shelves (6) – 3/4 x 3 x 6-1/4
door rails (2) – 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 12-1/2
door stiles (2) – 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/2
door rail trim (2) – 1/4 x 2-1/2 x 12
door stile trim (2) – 1/4 x 1-3/4 x 23-1/2
mirror (1) – 1/8 x 12-3/8 x 20- 3/8
mirror backer (1) – 1/4 x 12-7/16 x 20-7/16
backer stiles (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 20-7/16
backer rails (2) – 3/4 x 1/2 x 11-7/16

Step 1: Assemble the Base

Position the main shelf 11 1/4 inches from the ends of the sides and attach using glue and #17 x 1-1/2-inch wire brads.

Position the side assembly centered on the 23-inch side of the back, and mark on the back face of the back the positions of the sides and main shelf. Apply glue to the edges of the side assembly, and tack in place using 1-1/2-inch brads. For each side and the main shelf, drill countersink holes for 1-5/8-inch screws and drive the screws through the back and into the parts as shown.

Use wood filler to fill the edges and ends of the back. Prime and paint the main shelf, sides and back, except for the top and bottom ends of the sides and the back. Painting the back is optional.

Position the top centered on the end of the assembly nearest the main shelf and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads as shown.

Position the bottom centered on the other end of the assembly and flush with the back edge of the back and attach using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads.

Step 2: Attach the face frame

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the face frame rails. Position the face frame rails flush with the ends of the face frame stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the face frame assembly flush with the edges of the sides and attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2-inch brads. Drive brads through the top and bottom and into the face frame assembly as shown.

Prime and paint the face frame assembly.

Step 3: Add the side shelves

Use the layout below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the side shelves to shape. Drill pocket holes where indicated. Be sure to drill pocket holes as shown in three side shelves, and drill pocket holes as a mirror image to these in the remaining three side shelves.

Position one side shelf 5-9/16 inches from the top and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position a second shelf 6 7/16 inches from the bottom and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Position a third shelf centered between the first two shelves and attach to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.

Apply stain to the top, bottom and side shelves. Apply painter’s tape to the painted areas adjacent to these parts before staining.

Step 4: Build the door

Drill two pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Position the door rails flush with the ends of the door stiles and attach using glue and 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws as shown.

Position the door stile trim 3/4 inches from the outer edges and flush with the ends of the door assembly and attach using glue and #18 x 5/8-inch wire brads.

Measure the distance between the door stile trim and adjust the length of the door rail trim if necessary. Use the pattern below as a guide to measure, mark and cut the door rail trim.

Position the door rail trim flush with the outer edges of the door rails (with the curved area facing in) and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Be sure to apply glue to the ends of the door rail trim and clamp the part in place with the door stile trim until the glue sets as shown.

Mark a 1-3/4-inch x 1-3/4-inch square at the ends of the door stile trim parts. Drill a 3/4-inch hole in the center of each square using a Forstner bit as shown.

Use painter’s tape to mark off each square area, and prime and paint as shown.

Apply glue to the hole and insert a 3/4-inch furniture button. Allow the glue to set.

Apply stain to the remainder of the door, including the inside lip of the door rail trim and door stile trim.

Step 5: Install the mirror

Cut the mirror to the size indicated using a glass cutter, or have it cut to the size at a home improvement center. Cut the mirror backer to fit the opening in the door. Drill three pilot holes for 1-inch screws on the 1/2-inch side of the backer stiles and backer rails as shown.

Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer stiles (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends and edge of the mirror backer and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Position the 3/4-inch side of the backer rails (with the pilot holes facing inward) flush with the ends of the mirror backer and backer stiles and attach using glue and 5/8-inch brads. Place the mirror inside the opening in the door. Place a sheet of newspaper or tissue paper on the mirror back.

Place the mirror backer assembly on top of the mirror and attach the backer stiles and backer rails to the inside of the door stiles and rails using 1-inch screws only, as shown.

Stain and apply polyurethane to the mirror backer assembly.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Attach the door centered on the opening using two hinges. Attach a pull on the door stile. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of the cabinet and the door. Attach the magnetic part to the inside of the cabinet and the plate to the back of the door as shown. Attach two keyhole hangers to the back. Hang on screws appropriate for your wall type.

The original plan can be found at https://www.diynetwork.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Vanity

Materials:

2 -sheets of 3/4″ Cabinet grade plywood cut as shown below.
5 -8′ 1×2 poplar for face frame
1- sheet of 1/2″ plywood for drawers
1- sheet of 1/4″ plywood or backer board (smooth)
door and drawer front material (3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make)
1 3/4″ wood screws
1 1/4″ Kreg pocket hole screws
wood glue

Step 1:

Secure dividers and sides to bottom with 1 3/4″ wood screws.

Step 2:

Attach long cleats to top. Drive two screws into each divider.

Step 3:

Attach back cleats using pocket hole screws.

Step 4:

Secure bottom. This second bottom is going to make this big vanity heavy but will add stability and help distribute the weight of the entire piece onto the bun feet.

Step 5:

Square up by checking the diagonal measurement from top left to bottom right and visa versa. The measurement should be exactly the same. Doesn’t matter what the number is – just make sure it’s the same. Secure the back with 3/4″ – 1 1/4″ staples or screws.

Step 6:

Build side face frames our of 1×2 poplar (which is really 3/4″ x 1 1/2″) with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make sure to adjust size to fit the side of your vanity specifically. It should be flush with the front and back (covering the exposed side of back you just attached).

Step 7:

Attach side face frames with glue and small brad nails.

Step 8:

Build front face frame, making sure the placement of the styles (vertical pieces) are in the correct place for YOUR DIY vanity. Things don’t always turn out exactly like you planned them, even with the best planning so double check your specific dimensions before building your face frame.

Step 9:

Add countertop and feet. Build your own countertop or buy granite or tile or do concrete, the possibilities are endless.

Step 10: Build Drawers

There are many ways to build a drawer box depending on the tools you have and your level of experience. Build your drawers paying attention to the outside dimensions. This will leave 1/2″ clearance for 22″ drawer glides.

Center Top Drawer Dimensions

Center Bottom 2 Drawers

Step 11:

Build doors and drawer fronts for your double vanity. 3/4″ solid wood with applied moulding is the easiest door to make

Dimensions for false fronts and doors for sides.

Dimensions for center drawer fronts

It should be all ready to paint up, add hardware and use!

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Shelf

Lumber:

3 – 2×2 at 6’
Half sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials:

Edge banding for plywood, optional
4 – 8” angle brackets
8 – 4″ or 5″ angle brackets
Spray paint to match finish (for brackets, optional)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List:

3 – 2×2 at 47-1/2” – Legs
4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16” – Shelves

Instructions:

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches and the curve using a jig saw. Apply edge banding, if desired.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach the shelves at the spacing shown using corner brackets. Three brackets per shelf will be used.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com

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Bathroom Vanity

Build a small bath vanity with storage. These simple, step by step woodworking plans are designed for the beginner and can be built from a single sheet of plywood.

Shopping List:

1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×6 @ 4 feet long (optional)
1 – 1×2 – 1/4″ thick stock @ 8 feet long (optional decorative door trim)
1 – 25 foot long roll edge banding for stained finishes
3/4″ finish nails or brad nails if you are applying decorative trim
Either pocket hole screws or countersunk screws/finish nails
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer’s Wood Glue
Elmer’s Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
Primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush

Cut List:

1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 18″
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 32″ x 18″
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 30 3/4″ x 12″
2 – 1×6 OR 3/4″ Plywood @ 24″
4 – 1×3 @ 24″
Cut trim pieces to fit door faces

Step 1:

Cut plywood as shown above, with the grain, cutting long cuts first. So you would cut an 18″ wide strip off of your plywood, and then from that 18″ strip, cut the sides and shelf. You can ask the lumber store to make the cuts for you, and your plywood will be easier to transport and store.

Step 2:

Place the bottom shelf as shown above between the sides, either using the Kreg Jig or countersunk screws or 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 3:

Attach the 1x3s as shown above. The front 1×3 needs to be placed with a 4″ space above it. The back 1x3s need to be placed at the top, bottom of the bottom shelf, and centered.

Step 4:

Now the toe kick. Cut out and attach with 2″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 5:

Now the front apron. Same thing.

Step 6:

For the front apron, you can glue and attach the 1/4″ trim pieces as shown above.

Step 7 Instructions:

And the doors. You can attach trim pieces as well. The best hinges I’ve found for doors like these (full overlay) are these ones from the Home Depot

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

The original plan can be found at http://www.ana-white.com

[email_link]

Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

2 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue
Galvanized staples

Step 1:

It is easier to do the major sanding before cutting this lumber. Start with a very rough grit, 36 or 50, to take off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then graduate up through the grits until they are nice and smooth. Cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges and remove any loose knots or damaged wood.

Step 2: Make Cuts

Rip two strips of the pickets 4” wide, then chop them to your desired length. Make a 4 inch by 3 1/2 inch cut out at each end of both pickets. These will form the arms and box for the caddy. Next cut 7″ slats from the lattice, you will need 14 for plan dimensions, but adjust per your specs.

Step 3: Assembly

Attach the lattice slats with wood glue and staples. Start by attaching the 2 slats at each end and getting the caddy square. Then space the rest along the bottom 1/2” apart (or adjust to your measurements)

Step 4:

Once the caddy is dry, do a final sanding just to round off the edges of the slats and clean up any glue or clamp marks. You know, just make sure that it is nice and smooth everywhere because of that whole NO SLIVERS IN THE BATHTUB rule.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

[email_link]

Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

1 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue
Galvanized or stainless steel staples

Fence pickets are not the highest quality lumber, so try to find boards that are as straight and as smooth as possible. Avoid boards that have loose knots, are warped, splitting, etc. When I started on my second bath caddy I discovered that Home Depot does not always carry the cedar lattice, so I had to get my lattice from a lumber yard. Most lumber yards that carry fencing will have both the lattice and pickets. You might want to make a few calls in your area to find who has what, and cut down on the run around.

Step 1: Prep the wood

Step 2: Make Cuts

Here is the cut list for the caddy that I made, My tub has a strong oval shape so I have one handle that is 2 inches longer than the other. Measure the tub that you are making your caddy for and adjust as needed. Rip two strips of the fence picket that are 1” and cut to the desired width of your tub handles. Rip another strip that is 1 1/2” wide and cut it into two pieces that will be the length of the box of your caddy. Cut the lattice into 7” slats. For a 22 1/2″ box you will need 12 slats, but adjust to your specs.

Decide if you want your handles rounded or square. I like mine rounded, but depending on the tub the square can look cool too. Square or rounded, make sure to sand all edges and surfaces and clean up any splinters from cutting.—Nobody wants to get a sliver in the bathtub!

Step 3: Assembly

Start by creating the caddy box. Staple the slats to the sides and make sure to get the box square and flat. I don’t recommend using brad nails on the lattice as it will split easily.

Use waterproof wood glue and galvanized or stainless staples, these will stand up to the water and humidity of a bathroom. If you don’t have galvanized staples you can just glue and use clamps and/or weights but you will need to wait for the glue to dry up quite a bit between steps—and you know how much I love waiting for glue to dry! It does give you a cleaner look without the staples though.

Note: when making this caddy I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle. I thought it would look cool, but after finishing I decided that I would much prefer for the box to just be square. This is why the final pics look a bit different from the plans. I think it’s much better to do square ends, it will look cleaner and it’s a little easier.

Now glue and staple all of the lattice slats along the bottom of the caddy box. To get perfectly spaced slats cut scraps of wood to use as spacers (1/2 inch for given dimensions).

Step 4: Attach the handles

Center the caddy box onto the handles, glue and clamp in several places or use weights to secure the box to the handles.

For this step I used glue only, as I didn’t want staples, nails, or screws in the top of my handles. If you want, you could nail or screw up from the bottom, but be very careful not to go too far up or get crooked and mar the face of your handles or box. The wood glue alone will be plenty strong as long as you get it tight together while it dries.

Step 5:

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

[email_link]

Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, #1327
4 – 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, #1332
1/4 x 36 square poplar dowel, #27546
#17 x 1-in brads
Valspar signature paint, Brushed Almond

Click to Enlargen

Step 1:

Cut two tray supports (A) to lengths that equal the outside width of your tub. If your tub is mounted against a wall on one side, cut the support short enough to avoid bumping against the wall.

Step 2:

Measure the inside width of the tub and subtract 1 inch. Subtract that dimension from the length of the tray supports and divide the result in half to mark in from the ends of each tray support. Using a ruler and compass set to a 1/2-inch radius, mark the tray support notches on both ends of one tray support as shown on the Bathtub Caddy Project Diagram.

Step 3:

Tape the two tray supports together with the ends flush and begin by cutting the long line with a jigsaw. Stop when you reach the curve, turn off the saw and remove the blade.

Step 4:

From the edges of the supports, jigsaw up to and around the curve. Remove the tape and sand the cut marks smooth. Sand the tray supports with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges and ends.

Step 5:

From a 1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, cut two tray ends (B) 11-1/4 inches long. Sand both parts smooth and soften the edges but not the ends.

Step 6:

From 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, cut four tray bottom slats (C) 22 inches long. (If this is too long to fit your tray supports, you can instead cut them to a length equal to the bottom of the notches minus 8 inches.) Sand the slats and soften the edges and ends.

Step 7:

Cut seven spacers about 3 inches long from a 1/4-inch square dowel. On a flat work surface, lay the four bottom slats side by side with the ends flush and separated with 1/4-inch spacers and a spacer along the outside edge of one outside slat. Apply glue to the face of all four slats at one end and clamp the tray end to the slats with 1/4-inch overhangs on each end. After the glue dries, repeat to install the other tray end. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and drive 1-inch brads to reinforce the glue joints.

Step 8:

Center the tray along the length of the tray supports and mark its position. Glue and clamp the tray ends to the supports. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and reinforce the glue joints with 1-inch brads. Then fill the nail holes with putty and let dry.

Step 9:

Sand the completed caddy with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and wipe clean. Apply two coats of paint (Brushed Almond shown).

The original plan can be found at https://www.lowes.com

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