Tag: cabinet

Apothecary Medicine Cabinet

Build a simple, yet stylish, medicine cabinet to add more storage to your bathroom! This medicine cabinet has 3 apothecary-styled drawers to help contain anything from q-tips to combs!

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1 x 6 x 8′
  • 1 – 1 x 6 x 4′
  • 1 – 1 x 4 x 2′ (you only need 16 1/2″)
  • 1 – 1 x 3 x 4 (or furring strip, if cheaper)
  • 1 – 2 x 4 sheet of 1/4″ ply
  • 1 – 2 x 4 sheet of 1/2″ ply (or scraps! Use scraps for this, if you have any!)
  • 3 Drawer Pulls
  • 1 Cabinet Pull
  • 1 set of small hinges – butt hinges will work perfectly
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ mirror (you can also use glass or plywood)
  • 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1-1/4″ Brad Nails

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1 x 6 @ 24″ (sides)
  • 3 – 1 x 6 @ 16 1/2″ (top, bottom & shelf)
  • 2 – 1 x 6 @ 5″ (dividers)
  • 1 – 1 x 4 @ 16 1/2″ (inside shelf)
  • 6 – 1/2″ ply @ 4 3/4″ x 4 1/2″ (drawer fronts and backs)
  • 6 – 1/2″ ply @ 4 1/2 x 4 1/2″ (drawer sides)
  • 3 – 1/4″ ply @ 5 1/2″ x 4 3/4″ (drawer bottoms)
  • 1 – 1/4″ ply @ 18″ x 24″ (back)
  • 2 – 1 x 3 @ 11 1/4″ (door rail)
  • 2 – 1 x 3 @ 16 1/2″ (door stiles)
  • 1 – 1 x 3 @ 16 1/2 (support cleat)

Step 1:

Build a box using your side pieces and your top and bottom pieces. Make sure that the top and bottom boards are on the inside of the side boards.

Step 2:

Measure 5″ from the bottom inside of the box, and screw your shelf in with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 3:

Attach your support cleat to the back using 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock. It’s best to put your pocket holes at the back of the piece.

Step 4:

Add your drawer dividers. I found it easiest to just use glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails. Otherwise, predrill through the middle shelf and bottom of the cabinet, and use 1 1/4″ screws and glue. You cannot use pocket holes for these.

Step 5:

Figure out where you want your inside shelf. I preferred to have mine 5 1/2″ down so that I had an area for my smaller items, and one for my taller items. But this is entirely up to you, and what you plan to store! Attach shelf to the cabinet using 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock.

Step 6:

Build your drawers, make sure your 4 1/2″ boards are sandwiched between the 4 3/4″ boards. Use glue and 1 1/4″ finishing nails.

Step 7:

Attach your drawer bottoms using glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails

Step 8:

Build your door as shown. Use 1 1/4″ pocket holes set for 3/4″ stock.

Step 9:

Attach the back, using glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails.

Step 10:

Insert your mirror or glass into the door using mirror clips. If you plan on using wood, attach with only glue, and let dry.

Attach the door with the hinges, add some hardware, and put your drawers in place.

To hang, locate studs and screw through the support cleat into the studs using 2 – 3″ screws. If no studs are available, use the appropriate wall anchors.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

The original plan can be found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/03/free-diy-furniture-plans-build-3-drawer-medicine-cabinet/

 
[email_link]
 

Backyard Bar

Materials:

  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 42” long
  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 42” long
  • B – Frame – 15 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 9 pieces @ 15” long, 6 pieces @ 42” long.
  • C – Shelves – 26 pieces of 1×4 – 18” long
  • D – Panels – 23 pieces of 1×6 Lumber – 14 pieces @ 11” long, 9 pieces @ 40” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×6 Lumber – 48” long
  • E – Countertop – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 2 pieces @ 48” long, 2 pieces @ 29” long

Building the frame

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the frames of the bar. As you can easily notice in the image, we recommend you to use 2×4 lumber and to cut the components at the right size before locking them together.

Top Tip: Check if the corners are right-angled and drill pilot holes before inserting the screws, in order to prevent the wood from splitting. Align everything properly.

Building the legs

Build the legs for the bar using 2×4 or 2×6 lumber. Make decorative cuts to the bottom of the legs, as shown in the diagram.

Attaching the legs

Continue the woodworking project by attaching the legs to the three frames. In order to get a professional result, we recommend you to cut the ends of the legs in a decorative manner, by using a nice circular saw. Use 2×4 lumber to build the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Plumb the legs and check if the frames are perfectly horizontal before inserting the screws.

Attaching the legs

Next, you need to attach the legs to the front and back faces of the bar. Cut the components at the right size and lock them to the structure with 2 1/2″ screws, from the inside. Leave no gaps between the adjacent legs before inserting the screws into place. Add waterproof glue to enhance the rigidity of the joints and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Work with attention, otherwise the end result won’t match your expectations.

Attaching the slats to the shelves

Attach the 1×4 slats to the frames in order to build the shelves. Work with attention and pre-drill holes through the slats before locking them to the frames with 1 1/4″. Place the slats equally-spaced, in order to get a professional result.

Attaching slats to back face

Attach the 1×6 trims to the exterior of the wooden bar starting with the back face. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the slats and secure them to the legs with 1 1/4″ screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints and make sure the edges are flush. Alternatively, use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to lock the trims to the frame.

Attaching slats to sides

Fit the 1×6 slats between the side legs and lock them into place with galvanized screws. Add waterproof glue to the joints in order to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Top Tip: Place the slats equally-spaced, leaving between them about 1/4″. Align the slats with great care and smooth the cut edges with sandpaper before fitting them into place.

Fitting slats to front

Continue by installing the slats to the front face of the bar, as shown in the image. Align the slats at both ends and secure them to the legs with galvanized screws.

Building the countertop

Building the countertop is a straight-forward process, but you need to tackle it with great care. Align the slats with great care on a level surface and lock them together with galvanized screws. Drill pocket holes along the edges of the slats before inserting the 2 1/2″ screws and add waterproof glue to the joints, in order to create a rigid structure. Make the end slats curved, in order to add value to the wooden bar.

Attaching the countertop

Center the bar to the tabletop, making sure there are no gaps between the components. Drill pocket holes through the frame and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the countertop, to create a rigid structure.

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

Top Tip: If you want to enhance the look of the woodworking project and to protect the bar from decay, we recommend you to cover the components with paint or stain. Place the bar in a proper location and move it whenever necessary.

The original plan can be found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/furniture/free-bar-plans/

[email_link]

Aquarium Cabinet

A sturdy cabinet that could be used for just about anything… A TV Stand, console, or in this case an aquarium.

Materials needed:

  • 3/4″ plywood (1/2 Sheet)
  • 1/4″ plywood (1/4 Sheet)
  • 1 – 2x10x8 Spruce
  • 3 – 2x4x8 Spruce
  • 2 – 2x2x8 Spruce
  • 2 – 1x3x8 Spruce
  • Cove moulding
  • Crown moulding
  • Base moulding
  • 2 – sets of hinges
  • 2 – knobs/ or pulls
  • 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Brad nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Putty

Step 1: Build the sides of the Cabinet

What makes this cabinet sturdy, is its frame made mostly of 2×4’s. This cabinet ended up being 32″ tall x 36″ wide x 16 1/2″ deep overall. If you wanted a deeper or taller, change these dimensions as you wish.

First step is to cut four 2×4’s at 30 1/2″ long and four pieces at 7″ long. Then, I assembled two sides like shown using pocket holes and screws. I attached the bottom 2×4 an inch from the bottom

Before attaching the other 2×4 in the frame, I added a piece of 3/4″ plywood to fit in the opening. It’s best to measure and cut exactly to fit, but it should be 7” wide x 22 ½” long.

Lastly, I attached the last 2×4 to complete the two side panels attached using pocket holes and screws.

Step 2: Build Middle Support

To help hold the weight in the middle, I built another frame piece from 2x2s. The two legs should be 30 1/2” long and the two “stretchers” should be 11” long. I attached the bottom stretcher 2 1/4” from the bottom. Assemble this using pocket holes and screws.

Step 3: Assemble the Cabinet

Now, it was time to attach all three of these pieces together. I cut 4 pieces of 2×4 and 4 pieces of 2×2 all at 13” long and drilled pocket holes in both ends of each piece. . I used 2×2’s in the back and 2×4’s in the front and assembled as shown.

First I attached one side panel to the middle support, then attached the other side panel to that using pocket hole screws. I attached the bottom 2×4’s in the front 1” from the bottom and the back bottom 2×2’s 3” from the bottom. (Note: this view is looking from the back.)

Step 4: Add the bottom

I cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to fit in the bottom of the cabinet. This should be about 11” x 27 1/2”. I drilled pocket holes in both ends and screwed it in place into the two side panels. It should sit right on the bottom piece of the middle support.

Step 5: Attach top

I used a 2×10 to build a top for the cabinet. I made it 36” long and 16 ½” wide. You can use a circular saw or table saw to trim it down to size. Once the top was together, I screwed it in (making sure it was centered side to side) using 2 ½” screws through the back top supports, the middle top support and “toe-nailed” (drove in at an angle) through the front top 2×4.

Step 6: Add the Doors

I made the doors 14” wide and 23 ½” tall. You can see my post here.

Step 7: Add trim and mouldings

Finally, I added crown molding around the top, base around the bottom, and cove to the insides of the side panels. (Note: I added the cove and base before the top…it doesn’t matter whether you do it before or after except for the crown molding.)

Step 8: The finish

I puttied and sanded where needed then, I stained the cabinet in Minwax Golden Oak and polyed with Minwax Polycrylic. I attached the doors with simple overlay hinges and added these pulls from D Lawless Hardware to the doors to match the black hinges I used.

I didn’t add a back, because I wanted to hide the extension cord and power strip in the cabinet, but if you wanted a back, just staple or nail some 1/4” plywood on the back side.

This plan can be originally found at https://www.woodshopdiaries.com/diy-aquarium-cabinet-stand/

[email_link]

Aquarium Stand

Materials:

  • A – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 29 1/2″ long
  • B – Frame – 4 pieces of 2×4 Lumber – 23 1/2″ long
  • C – Shelf – 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 30 1/2″ x 11 3/4″
  • D – Trims – 2 pieces of 1×4 Lumber – 1 @ 22 1/4″, 1 @ 12 1/4″
  • E – Trims – 2 pieces of 1×4 Lumber – 1 @ 22 1/4″, 1 @ 32″
  • F – Panels – 2 pieces of 1/2″ plywood – 1 @ 5 1/4″ x 22 1/4″, 1 @ 22 1/4″ x 23 1/2″
  • G – Top Trims – 4 pieces of 1×6 Lumber –  2 @ 22 1/4″, 2 @32″
  • H – Tabletop – 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 12 1/4″ x 30 1/2″

 

Directions:

The first step of the woodworking project is to build the faces for the aquarium stand. As you can easily notice in the diagram, we recommend you to build the components out of 2×4 lumber. Take accurate measurements and drill pilot holes at both ends of the horizontal components. Insert 2 1/2″ screws after making sure the edges are flush and the corners are square. Add glue for a proper bond.

Next, you have to lock the faces of the stand together, as in the diagram. Cut the components out of 2×4 lumber and drill pocket holes at both ends. Fit the components between the faces and lock them together using 2 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are square and the edges flush.

Build the bottom shelf out of 3/4″ plywood. Mark the cut lines on the sheet of plywood and get the job done with a circular saw. Smooth the edges and check if the notches are cut out properly.

Fit the shelf to the structure and lock it into position by using a few brad nails. You could add glue to enhance the bond of the components. In addition, we recommend you to make sure the edges are perfectly flush one with another.

Building the front wall for the aquarium stand is a straight forward process. Therefore, use lumber for the  frame and 1/2″ plywood for the main panel. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the vertical supports and secure them to the top and bottom trims by using 1 1/4″ screws. Drill pocket holes along the edges of the plywood panel and secure it to the frame by using galvanized screws and glue.

Build the side walls in the same manner described above. Just make sure you adjust the size of the components as in the diagram. Check if the corners are square and make sure there are no gaps between the components.

Continue the project by attaching the exterior walls to the frame. Align the components with great care and secure the panels to the frame studs by using finishing nails. The edges should be perfectly flush for a professional result.

In order to enhance the look of the aquarium stand, you have to attach the trims to the back of the structure, as shown in the diagram. Secure the trims to the structure using brad nails and glue.

One of the last steps of the project is to attach the top component to the stand, as described in the diagram. Cut the piece of plywood at the right dimensions and secure it to the cleats using brad nails and waterproof glue.

Last but not least, we recommend you to take care of the finishing touches. Fill the holes with wood filler and let it to dry out for several hours. Afterwards, smooth the wooden surface with fine-grit sandpaper and vacuum the residues.

This plan can be originally found at http://howtospecialist.com/finishes/furniture/how-to-build-an-aquarium-stand/

[email_link]

Aquarium Stand

 

Materials:

  • A – Frame – 5 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 2 @ 30 1/2″ long, 3 @ 9 1/4″ long
  • B – Legs – 4 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 26″ long
  • C – Sides – 4 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 9 1/4″ long, 2 pieces of 3/4″ plywood 9 1/4″ x 26″ long
  • D – Front Face – 2 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 27 1/2″ long, 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood 26″ x 27 1/2″ long
  • E – Supports – 2 pieces of 2×2 lumber – 27 1/2″ long
  • F – Bottom – 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood – 9 1/4″ x 27 1/2″ long
  • G – Top – 1 piece of 3/4″ plywood 12 1/4″ x 30 1/2″ long
  • H – Trims – 4 pieces of 1×6 lumber – 2 @ 12 1/4″ long, 2 @ 32″ long

Directions:

The first step of the project is to build the frame for the tabletop. As you can easily can notice in the diagram, use 2×4 lumber for the components. Cut the components at the right dimensions and drill pocket holes at both ends of the short components. Make sure the corners are square and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them together tightly.

Build the side panels out of 3/4″ plywood. Attach the 1×2 cleats to the top and bottom of the panel, as described in the diagram. Add glue to the joints and insert 1 1/4″ finishing nails to get the job done in a professional manner.

Drill pocket holes along the sides and top edges of the plywood panels and secure them to the 2×2 legs using 1 1/4″ screws. Add glue to the joints and leave no gaps between the components.

Build the front panel out of 3/4″ plywood and the supports out of 1×2 lumber. Use glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to lock the supports to the panel. Drill pocket holes along the sides and top edges. Fit the front panel to the side panels and insert 1 1/4″ screws to lock them together tightly. Make sure the corners are square before inserting the screws.

Continue the project by fitting the 2×2 supports to the face of the fish tank stand. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the supports and secure them to the sides using 2 1/2″ screws. Make sure the corners are right-angled.

Continue the woodworking project by attaching the frame to the top of the structure. Align the edges with attention, making sure they are perfectly flush. Insert 2 1/2″ screws through the top of the stand into the 2×4 frame. Leave no gaps between the components and add glue to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Use 3/4″ plywood to build the top of the aquarium stand. Smooth the edges with sandpaper and attach it to the frame using glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.

Use 1×6 lumber to build the trims for the top of the stand. Attach the trims to the frame of the stand using 1 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Make sure the corners are square and leave no gaps between the components.

Build the cleats out of 1×2 lumber. Drill pocket holes at both ends of the components and secure them to the structure using 1 1/4″ screws. Check if the corners are right-angled before inserting the screws.

Build the bottom of the stand out of 3/4″ plywood. Smooth the edges with 120-grit sandpaper and fit the sheet to the bottom cleats. Insert a few 1 1/4″ brad nails to lock the sheet to the cleats.

Build the doors panels out of 3/4″ plywood and the frames out of 1×2 lumber. Cut the components at the right dimensions and secure them to the plywood panels using 1 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Leave no gaps between the components and make sure the edges are perfectly flush.

Fit the doors to the opening and secure them to the side using hinges. Leave 1/8″ around the doors and install a magnet door stop. Fit nice handles and then take care of the finishing details.

One of the last steps of the woodworking project is to take care of the finishing touches. Therefore, fill the pilot holes with wood putty and smooth the surface with 120-grit sandpaper.

This plan was originally found at http://myoutdoorplans.com/furniture/fish-tank-stand-plans/

[email_link]

Bar – Corner

Owning your own in-house bar makes a statement about you. The bar shown here is sleekly styled and smartly laid out for the efficient barkeeper. A small refrigerator gives you access to cold drinks and ice while convenient cabinets create excellent storage spots for party favors. While this is a “dry bar” (no plumbing), the design could be modified in any number of ways to add running water if you wish. All you need to get the party started is a GFCI electrical outlet and the proper floor space.

This compact corner bar design features glossy black MDF aprons with decorative cherry appliqués forming a horizontal grid pattern on the aprons. A cherry plywood bar top sits atop a 2 × 6 L-shaped knee-wall, harboring some practical amenities on the bartender side. A flip-up lift gate in the bar top on one end provides pass-through access and can even function as a wait station if you want to get really fancy in your hosting. The key components— base cabinets, a laminate counter top, the fridge, and the wood for a sleek Asian inspired style trim-out—set the stage for your next gathering. Let’s party!

Materials:

Directions:

Step 1: Cut the 2 x 6 Sill Plates to Length (68″)

Anchor the sill plates for the knee-walls to the floor so they form a right angle at the corner where they meet. Use 16d common nails or screws and panel adhesive for a wood floor; use a powder-actuated nailer on a concrete floor.

Step 2: Attach the End Stud Against the Back Wall

Use panel adhesive and deck screws to attach the end knee-wall stud to the back wall, attaching at a stud location. If there’s no stud, open the wall and insert a horizontal nailer between the nearest studs.

Step 3: Make the Stud Wall Corner

Use 16d common nails to toe-nail the corner studs to the sill plates. Use a level to make sure the studs are vertical.

Step 4: Cut Cap Plates the Same Size as the Sill Plates

Complete the framing for the L-shaped knee-wall section. For extra strength, drive a few 3″ deck screws through the studs where they meet at the corner.

Step 5: Make the Aprons and Trim

Rip two sheets of 1/2″ MDF to 40 1/2″ wide and trim them to length to make the bar front panels. Sand edges to remove any saw marks. For the smoothest possible finish, spray the front apron panels with an HVLP sprayer. Apply the paint or lacquer over primer, in thin coats.

Step 6: Prepare Hardwood Stock

Prepare at least 80 lineal feet of 3/4 × 11/2″ hardwood stock to trim out the aprons and edges of the bar-top.

Step 7: Apply a Clear Protective Wood Finish

For efficiency, apply a protective finish to the cherry apron trim stock. Dab some finish on the cut ends after you cut each trim piece to length.

Step 8: Apply Panel Adhesive to the Knee-wall Studs

Apply panel adhesive to the knee-wall studs to strengthen the bond with the black aprons. Slip a 1/4-thick spacer beneath each apron to create a gap between the panel and the floor.

Step 9: Attach the Aprons

Attach the aprons with a pneumatic nailer and 2 1/2″ Finish Nails Nail the apron panels to the wall studs at 8″ to 12″ intervals.

Step 10: Cut 16″ Wide Strips of 1/2″-Thick Cement Boards

Attach cement board strips to the edges of the knee-wall framing members as a backer for the backsplash area.

Step 11: Install the Wall Tile

Install the inside wall covering before you cap the wall. We used inexpensive 4 x 4″ ceramic wall tile set into a layer of thin-set adhesive that’s troweled onto the cement board.

Step 12: Bond the Particleboard Sub-base

Bond the particleboard sub-base directly to the top plates of the knee-walls, taking care to achieve even overhangs of 6″ in front and 4″ on the bartender side of the walls.

Step 13: Secure the Sub-base to the Walls

Drive plenty of 2″ deck screws to secure the sub-base to the walls. The screw heads must be sunk beneath the wood surface.

Step 14: Use a Circular Saw to Cut the Bartop

Make 45-degree miter cuts in the bartop top layer using a circular saw and cutting guide.

Step 15: Laminate With Panel Adhesives

Laminate the top layer of cherry plywood to the sub-base with panel adhesives and 1 1/4″ screws driven up through the sub-base.

Step 16: Cut Parts to Length + Attach them to the Edges of the Bar top

Cut a round-over profile in one edge of the cherry edging stock and then cut the parts to length and attach them to the edges of the bartop with nails and glue.

Step 17: Square-Cut a piece of 1 × 2 Edging

Square-cut a piece of 1 × 2 edging to fit exactly between the ends of the round-over edging, and nail and glue it into place.

Step 18: Nail the End Panel to the Wall

Nail the cherry end panel to the wall end to conceal the stud wall and the edges of the wall coverings and trim.

Step 19: Attach a 1 x 2 Stop Block to the Wall

Attach a 1 × 2 stop block for the lift gate to the wall directly above the wall-mounted end panel.

Step 20: Attach the Piano Hinge

Attach the piano hinge to the lift gate section of the countertop first, then attach the other leaf to the countertop.

Step 21: Attach the Lift Gate

Attach the lift gate to the countertop and test to make sure it operates smoothly and correctly.

Step 22: Create a Ladder Grid Pattern

Add the decorative cherry strips in a ladder grid pattern, using an air nailer. Start with the vertical strips, then cut the horizontals to fit.

Step 23: Attach a Countertop to the Base Cabinets

Attach a countertop to the base cabinets to create an easy-to-clean work surface for the bartender.

Step 24: Add a Refrigerator or Appliance of Your Choice (OPTIONAL)

Slide in a refrigerator, or any appliance you choose.
The original plan can be found at http://www.freewoodworkingplan.com

[email_link]

1 2 3 4