decor – Woodworkers Resource

Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

2 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue
Galvanized staples

Step 1:

It is easier to do the major sanding before cutting this lumber. Start with a very rough grit, 36 or 50, to take off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then graduate up through the grits until they are nice and smooth. Cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges and remove any loose knots or damaged wood.

Step 2: Make Cuts

Rip two strips of the pickets 4” wide, then chop them to your desired length. Make a 4 inch by 3 1/2 inch cut out at each end of both pickets. These will form the arms and box for the caddy. Next cut 7″ slats from the lattice, you will need 14 for plan dimensions, but adjust per your specs.

Step 3: Assembly

Attach the lattice slats with wood glue and staples. Start by attaching the 2 slats at each end and getting the caddy square. Then space the rest along the bottom 1/2” apart (or adjust to your measurements)

Step 4:

Once the caddy is dry, do a final sanding just to round off the edges of the slats and clean up any glue or clamp marks. You know, just make sure that it is nice and smooth everywhere because of that whole NO SLIVERS IN THE BATHTUB rule.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

1 Untreated Dog Eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue
Galvanized or stainless steel staples

Fence pickets are not the highest quality lumber, so try to find boards that are as straight and as smooth as possible. Avoid boards that have loose knots, are warped, splitting, etc. When I started on my second bath caddy I discovered that Home Depot does not always carry the cedar lattice, so I had to get my lattice from a lumber yard. Most lumber yards that carry fencing will have both the lattice and pickets. You might want to make a few calls in your area to find who has what, and cut down on the run around.

Step 1: Prep the wood

Step 2: Make Cuts

Here is the cut list for the caddy that I made, My tub has a strong oval shape so I have one handle that is 2 inches longer than the other. Measure the tub that you are making your caddy for and adjust as needed. Rip two strips of the fence picket that are 1” and cut to the desired width of your tub handles. Rip another strip that is 1 1/2” wide and cut it into two pieces that will be the length of the box of your caddy. Cut the lattice into 7” slats. For a 22 1/2″ box you will need 12 slats, but adjust to your specs.

Decide if you want your handles rounded or square. I like mine rounded, but depending on the tub the square can look cool too. Square or rounded, make sure to sand all edges and surfaces and clean up any splinters from cutting.—Nobody wants to get a sliver in the bathtub!

Step 3: Assembly

Start by creating the caddy box. Staple the slats to the sides and make sure to get the box square and flat. I don’t recommend using brad nails on the lattice as it will split easily.

Use waterproof wood glue and galvanized or stainless staples, these will stand up to the water and humidity of a bathroom. If you don’t have galvanized staples you can just glue and use clamps and/or weights but you will need to wait for the glue to dry up quite a bit between steps—and you know how much I love waiting for glue to dry! It does give you a cleaner look without the staples though.

Note: when making this caddy I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle. I thought it would look cool, but after finishing I decided that I would much prefer for the box to just be square. This is why the final pics look a bit different from the plans. I think it’s much better to do square ends, it will look cleaner and it’s a little easier.

Now glue and staple all of the lattice slats along the bottom of the caddy box. To get perfectly spaced slats cut scraps of wood to use as spacers (1/2 inch for given dimensions).

Step 4: Attach the handles

Center the caddy box onto the handles, glue and clamp in several places or use weights to secure the box to the handles.

For this step I used glue only, as I didn’t want staples, nails, or screws in the top of my handles. If you want, you could nail or screw up from the bottom, but be very careful not to go too far up or get crooked and mar the face of your handles or box. The wood glue alone will be plenty strong as long as you get it tight together while it dries.

Step 5:

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, #1327
4 – 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, #1332
1/4 x 36 square poplar dowel, #27546
#17 x 1-in brads
Valspar signature paint, Brushed Almond

Click to Enlargen

Step 1:

Cut two tray supports (A) to lengths that equal the outside width of your tub. If your tub is mounted against a wall on one side, cut the support short enough to avoid bumping against the wall.

Step 2:

Measure the inside width of the tub and subtract 1 inch. Subtract that dimension from the length of the tray supports and divide the result in half to mark in from the ends of each tray support. Using a ruler and compass set to a 1/2-inch radius, mark the tray support notches on both ends of one tray support as shown on the Bathtub Caddy Project Diagram.

Step 3:

Tape the two tray supports together with the ends flush and begin by cutting the long line with a jigsaw. Stop when you reach the curve, turn off the saw and remove the blade.

Step 4:

From the edges of the supports, jigsaw up to and around the curve. Remove the tape and sand the cut marks smooth. Sand the tray supports with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges and ends.

Step 5:

From a 1/2 x 2 x 48 poplar board, cut two tray ends (B) 11-1/4 inches long. Sand both parts smooth and soften the edges but not the ends.

Step 6:

From 1/2 x 3 x 48 poplar boards, cut four tray bottom slats (C) 22 inches long. (If this is too long to fit your tray supports, you can instead cut them to a length equal to the bottom of the notches minus 8 inches.) Sand the slats and soften the edges and ends.

Step 7:

Cut seven spacers about 3 inches long from a 1/4-inch square dowel. On a flat work surface, lay the four bottom slats side by side with the ends flush and separated with 1/4-inch spacers and a spacer along the outside edge of one outside slat. Apply glue to the face of all four slats at one end and clamp the tray end to the slats with 1/4-inch overhangs on each end. After the glue dries, repeat to install the other tray end. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and drive 1-inch brads to reinforce the glue joints.

Step 8:

Center the tray along the length of the tray supports and mark its position. Glue and clamp the tray ends to the supports. After the glue dries, drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and reinforce the glue joints with 1-inch brads. Then fill the nail holes with putty and let dry.

Step 9:

Sand the completed caddy with 120-grit and then 180-grit sandpaper and wipe clean. Apply two coats of paint (Brushed Almond shown).

The original plan can be found at https://www.lowes.com

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Bathtub Caddy

Materials:

2 Untreated Dog eared Cedar Fence Pickets 5 1/2″ x 5′
2 Cedar Lattice strips 1 1/2″ x 4′
Waterproof Wood Glue

Since this is fencing, the lumber is pretty rough. Pick through the stack to find boards that are straight and as smooth as possible. Avoid boards that have loose knots, are warped, splitting, etc. You can use Cedar planking which has been planed and sanded on one side, it’s quite a bit more expensive and since only one side is sanded, it made more sense to me to save the extra money and just use the fencing.

These are the pieces that you will need for assembly. Dimensions and number of slats will change if the overall size of the caddy is modified.

Measure the tub that the caddy is for and determine the overall width that you want. The tub that I made my caddy for has a strong oval shape, so I needed one side to be 2 inches longer than the other side.

Chop the Cedar pickets to your desired length (tub width), then rip the pickets to 3 1/4 inches (or desired depth of the caddy). This is removing quite a bit of material, so this is an opportunity to get rid of any parts of the wood that are less desirable. Also, make sure to cut all sides of the wood to give yourself clean edges. Some of this excess wood will be used for the ends, so save it for later.

Print and cut out the handles template then transfer the shape to the ends of the pickets. Cut out the handles using a jigsaw or band saw. If one side is longer than the other (like mine) put the difference in the arms, so that the body remains even. Similar to building a drawer, cut a dado a half inch from the bottom on both sides. The dado needs to be 3/8 inch wide and 1/4 inch deep.

Chop the lattice pieces to your desired width, mine are 7 and 1/2 inches, for an overall caddy width of 8 inches. I used 10 pieces spaced 3/4 of an inch apart (this worked out nicely as I was able to use 3/4 MDF scraps for spacers).

Dry fit both ends of each lattice into the dado. Sand the edges of any that don’t fit until all of the pieces will fit into the dado. Note: assembly is easier if all the pieces fit snugly so don’t over-sand.

Use the table saw with the blade set to a 30 degree angle to bevel one edge of two lattice slats. These will be the outside ends of the caddy, the bevel fills the end of the dado flush and creates a more finished look than if the edges were left square. Next cut the end pieces from the scraps you saved earlier. These go on top of the outside slats. Mine are 7 inches wide by 2 1/2 inches tall, but adjust to your sizing.

Now sand, sand, sand! Because the cedar is so rough I started with 36 grit paper on the circular sander. This took off the scurf marks and really rough stuff. Then I just graduated up through the grits until it was nice and smooth. (Tip: I did the major sanding on the lattice strips before I cut them as they are harder to sand when they are smaller strips. Then just touched them where needed after they were cut.) Take your time and get everything nice and smooth– Nobody wants to get a sliver in the bathtub!

To assemble, put wood glue one end of each slat and insert into the dado groove on one side. Don’t worry about spacing too much at this point, just get them in. Once all of the slats are in, turn the piece onto it’s side so that the slats are pointing up. Apply glue to the free side of each slat and slide the other caddy side down onto the slats so that the slats go into the dado. This can be a bit tricky and it helps to have a second pair of hands. Once the slats are in both dados, adjust the slats so that they are evenly spaced and the two beveled edges on the ends line up smoothly with the outside edge. Place one or two clamps in the middle to hold it all in place. Put glue on the sides of the two end pieces and then slide them down onto the beveled edge of the outside slats. Check for evenness and square, then clamp the ends together. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth and let the caddy dry according to glue directions.

Remove the clamps and lightly sand any clamp marks or glue residue and your caddy is ready to go! No need to seal cedar as the natural oils act as preservatives, making the wood extremely long lasting and resistant to moisture.

The original plan can be found at https://sawdustgirl.com

[email_link]

Bathroom Decor

Gridview

Bathroom Shelf

These wooden shelf units are ideal for a bathroom and you can make them using pine that you will find at your local Builders Warehouse. Leave them natural or stain in your choice of wood tint and finish off with varnish. If you have all the pieces cut to size all that you have to do is assemble.

The size of the bathroom storage unit is 464mm square (18 1/4″) and 1800mm high (70 13/16″), but you can easily modify the design if you want a lower shelf unit.

Materials:

(4) 32mm (1 1/4″) x 32mm (1 1/4″) x 1800mm (70 13/16″ pine – uprights
(20) 32mm (1 1/4″) x 32mm (1 1/4″) x 400mm (15 3/4″) pine – cross pieces
(35) 10mm (3/8″) x 44mm (1 3/4″) x 464mm (18 1/4″) pine – slats
Pattex No More Nails adhesive
Plastic screw caps (to hide screws)
5 x 50mm (2″) smooth shank cut screws
180-grit sandpaper

Step 1: Assemble the side frames

Working on a flat, level surface, measure and mark for placing the shelves. The first shelf is 200mm from the floor. Mark as follows for the remaining shelves: 592mm (23 5/16″) – 984mm (38 3/4″) – 1376mm (54 3/16″) – 1768mm (69 9/16″).

Step 2:

To attach the cross pieces, use the mark for the shelves and add 16mm to drill and countersink a 4mm pilot hole. Place the individual cross pieces above the marked positions and drill through the pilot hole into the end of each cross piece.

GOOD TO KNOW
It’s important to drill a pilot hole in the uprights and cross pieces to prevent the wood from splitting when you join together.

Step 3:

Apply a bead of adhesive to the end of each cross piece before securing in place with 5 x 50mm (2″) smooth shank cut screws.

Step 4:

The cross pieces on the front and back are mounted 10mm (3/8″) lower than those on the front. This is the allow space for mounting the slats, which will then sit flush with the height of the side cross pieces. It also ensure that there is room for the screws.

Step 5:

There are 7 slats in total and these need to be spaced equally on top of the front and back cross pieces. Attach with adhesive and then hammer in a panel pin (or use a pneumatic nail gun) to secure in place. The slats also provide additional stability to the unit.

Step 6: Finishing
To cover up the countersunk holes you can use plastic screw caps. These are available in a selection of colours from white to dark brown, so choose a colour that will match the finish of your bathroom shelf unit.

The original plan can be found at http://www.home-dzine.co.za/diy/diy-bathroom-storage.htm

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Bathroom Shelf

Materials Needed:

(2) – 1″ x 8″ board, 36″ long
(4) – 1″ x 8″ board, 24″ long
(1) – 1″ x 8″ board, 9-3/4″ long
(1) – crown molding, 25-1/2″ long
(2) – crown molding, 7-1/4″ long
(1) – base molding, 25-1/2″ long
(2) – base molding, 7-1/4″ long
(1) – sheet of beadboard, 25-1/2″ x 36″
(1) – 1″ x 2″ board, 23″ wide

Step 1: Mark Shelf Layout

Lay both side pieces flat on a table with insides facing up. Using the diagram as guide, make pencil marks on both pieces of wood where shelves will be attached. Tip: If a power saw is unavailable, bring the lumber list to a local hardware store and have shelves cut there.

Step 2: Attach sides to shelves

Use diagram as a guide and loosely assemble the cabinet on a flat surface. Working top to bottom, line up shelf edges perfectly with pencil marks. The bottom shelf should be positioned two inches from the bottom of length pieces to leave room for the installation cleat. This 2-inch gap will be covered by base molding. Holding shelf firmly in one hand, drill pilot holes. Drive screws through pilot holes until shelf is tight against side. Repeat on opposite side and until all four shelf-length pieces are securely fastened to sides. If vertical piece is desired on the top shelf, center a piece of wood and attach with nails. Tip: Use woodworking clamp to hold sides and shelf snugly together.

Step 3: Attach beadboard backing

Position shelving unit face down on flat surface. With the lines on the beadboard running top to bottom, lay the beadboard face down on the shelving unit. Align the edges of the beadboard with the edges of shelving unit, and tack in place with nails.

Step 4: Attach the crown molding

Making sure the inside miter is lined up perfectly with edges, hold the bottom of the front piece of crown molding flush to the top front edge of the shelving unit. Tack on with nails. Line up mitered edges perfectly and hold the bottom of the side piece of crown molding flush to the top side edge of shelving unit. Tack on with nails. Repeat process on opposite side. Tip: Consulting a crown molding “cheat sheet,” which offers detailed instructions and settings, use a compound miter saw or miter box to make cuts.

Step 5: Attach the base molding

Making sure that the top of the base molding is flush with the top of the bottom shelf, repeat above process on the bottom of the shelving unit. Base molding will extend a bit beyond bottom edge of side piece. Tack with nails.

Step 6: Putty and sand

Use a putty knife and wood filler to fill screw and nail holes. Allow filler to dry and sand flush with surface.

Step 7: Prime and Paint

Apply all-purpose primer to shelf with a 2-1/2″ sash brush. Make sure to paint underside of shelf, since it may be visible once shelf is hung. Allow dry time and apply two coats of latex paint. Tip: Lightly sanding between coats will minimize appearance of brush strokes.

Step 8: Install the shelf

Determine placement of the cabinet. Position 1×2 board to fit on the wall under the bottom shelf and behind the base molding. Use a level to ensure the shelf will hang straight. Drill pilot holes through the board and wall. Insert screws to hold securely to the wall. Install the “L” bracket on top of the cabinet. Place the cabinet on the wall, resting on the cleat, and screw the “L” bracket into wall. Tack a few nails through the bottom shelf into the cleat to hold the shelf securely in place. Fill with baskets and toiletries. Tip: If installing in drywall, locate a stud to insert at least one screw in. If stud placement doesn’t line up with shelf placement, use wall anchors.

The original plan can be found at https://www.hgtv.com/design/rooms/bathrooms/cottage-bathroom-storage-cabinet

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Simple Sink Console

Shopping List:

Wood:

4 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×6 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1×8 @ 10 feet long (NOTE: It is very important that your 1×8 is 7 1/4″ wide. If it is not, purchase a 1×10 and rip it down to 7 3/4″.)
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2×2 @ 10 feet long
1 – scrap of 1/4″ plywood at least 32″ x 12″
1 – 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Hardware and Supplies:

3 – Knobs or Drawer Pulls
1 – set of 12″ Bottom Mount Drawer Slides
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Regular Wood Screws
1 1/4″ Finishing Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Medium Grit Sandpaper
Primer or Wood Conditioner
Paint or Stain

Cut List:

Boards:

6 – 1×2 @ 4 1/2″ – Drawer Trim (short)
1 – 1×2 @ 7 1/2″ – False Drawer Trim (center)
4 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ – False Drawer Trim (long)
2 – 1×2 @ 32 3/4″ – Drawer Trim (long)
1 – 1×2 @ 33″ – Front Trim
4 – 1×2 @ 21 1/2″ – Side Trim
2 – 1×3 @ 33″ – Vanity Top Trim
1 – 1×6 @ 32″ – Drawer Back
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/4″ – Drawer Sides
1 – 1×8 @ 32 3/4″ – Drawer Front
1 – 1×8 @ 33″ – False Drawer Front
1 – 1×8 @ 33″ – Back Support
2 – 2×2 @ 33″ – Bottom Shelf Trim (long)
2 – 2×2 @ 21 1/2″ – Bottom Shelf Trim (short)
4 – 2×2 @ 35 3/4″ – Legs
1 – 2×2 @ 33″ – Bottom Drawer Divider

Plywood:

1 – 1/4″ Plywood scrap @ 32″ x 12″ – Drawer Bottom
1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 33″ x 21 1/2″ – Bottom Shelf
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 21 1/2″ x 18 1/4″ – Sides

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit. Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Plywood Cuts:

Here is a basic cutting diagram for your 3/4″ plywood. When you purchase your plywood, have them cut the piece lengthwise at 21 1/2″. That way, when you get it home, you only have to make one cut per piece. (Plus, if you’re like me with our Matrix hatchback, this way it will actually fit in your car!)

Step 1:

Assemble the side of the vanity as shown above. Make sure that there is a 3/4″ gap between the front of your plywood and the edge of the 2×2. Also, make sure that your pocket holes go on the inside of what will be the cabinet, I just marked them on the outside so that you could better see where they go.

Step 2:

Add trim to the top and bottom edge. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second side.

Step 3:

Here’s the fun part where it starts to look like something. Attach the shelf, back support, and one of the pieces of the vanity top trim as shown above.

Step 4:

Add 2×2 bottom shelf trim using the pocket holes that you pre-drilled in the previous step. (It will be easier if you flip the whole piece over while completing this step.) The top of the 2×2 should be flush with the top of your plywood.

Step 5:

Flip your sink console so that you are now working on the front side. Make sure to drill your pocket hole screws on the INSIDE to hide them. Leave a 3/4″ gap on the front of your false drawer front to allow for trim in the later steps.

Step 6:

Add your second piece of top trim above your false drawer front. The front of the 1×3 should be flush with the edges of your 2×2 legs.

Step 7:

When adding the bottom drawer divider, it is important that your measurements are exact. Before adding this piece, double check the width of your 1×8 drawer front to once again confirm it is 7 1/2″ wide. Some of them come as 7 1/4″, which is why I notated in the shopping list to make sure your board is wide enough.

A trick to making sure your board is exactly 7 3/4″ from the bottom of your 1×2 is to cut a scrap piece of wood to 7 3/4″ and use it as a “spacer” while screwing in your bottom drawer divider.

Step 8:

Build your drawer interior as shown above.

Step 9:

Install your drawer slides and insert your drawer. When installing your slides the interior of the drawer should sit right behind your 2×2 bottom drawer divider, leaving room for your drawer front and trim. To install your drawer front, center it into the space, leaving a 1/8″ gap all the way around it, and secure it with finishing nails. Once it’s tight enough to pull out, remove the drawer and further secure it using the pocket hole screws that you pre-drilled in the previous step.

Step 10:

Add all of your drawer trim. Once you have finished your piece, add your knobs/drawer pulls.

Finishing:

Finish your project as desired. Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.

The original plan can be found at http://www.oldpaintdesign.com/2012/05/28/simple-sink-console/

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Hanging Bathroom Shelf

Supply List:

1 – 2x4x8 whitewood or pine board
1 – 2x6x8 whitewood or pine board
Rope

Cut List:

(2) – 2 x 4 @ 40” long
(3) – 2×6 @ 21” long

I used my Kreg Jig to attach my shelf. This is super easy to do. If you don’t own a Kreg Jig (yet) you can also attach the boards by using 2.5″ wood screws through the outside boards and into the 2×6 shelf boards. If you do this, make sure to pre-drill first, and cover the head of the wood screw with wood putty before staining.

You can see here I have set my measurements to 1.5″ pocket holes because I am joining 2×4 wood and the thickness of the wood is 1 1/2″. I put my pocket holes in my 2×6 boards. This is what they looked like all finished and ready to attach.

Next I used 2.5″ pocket hole screws to attach the pieces all together. Here are the shelves attached. One is at the base, one is 13″ from the bottom and the other is placed at 27″ from the bottom.

I have found a great way to fill pocket holes and other holes is using 3M Wood Filler! Just squeeze some out into each hole.

Use a scraper to even it out.

Next I used my drill to place a 3/8″ hole in the top of each side piece.

To finish this shelf, I used one of my very favorite stains. Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Dark Walnut. You just brush it on with a foam brush and use an old rag to wipe it off… Easy! You can find this stain at Lowe’s or Walmart.

Finally, I used a piece of sisal rope which I also found at Lowe’s to hang it on the wall. I just ran the ends of the rope through the holes at the top of the shelf and tied knots on each end. I used good anchors in my wall since I wasn’t attaching this to a stud. I found my hook at Lowe’s

The original plan can be found at https://www.shanty-2-chic.com/2013/08/bathroom-shelf.html

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Bathroom Shelf

My boys’ bathroom is a disaster, so my #OrganizeBuildChallenge submission is a shelf/ towel bar hybrid, combining wood, paint, and clear acrylic sheets. Although the idea of a new material, like acrylic, may seem intimidating but I promise you, it went together so easily! The whole project took me a single afternoon.

Materials List:

(2) 5-1/2″ x 18″ x 3/8″ acrylic sheet
(1) 1 x 6 x 72″ – wood board
(1) 1-3/8″ x 48″ – wood closet rod
(1) 3/8″ x 12″ – wood dowel
(8) *2″ wood screws
(8) *screw head covers
(4) *3/4″ L-brackets

Cut List:

(2) 1 x 6 @ 36″
(1) 1-3/8″ closet rod @ 38-3/4″
(2) 3/8″ wood dowel @ 2-1/8″

Step 1:

Cut and finish your pieces and allow to fully dry. You can cut the acrylic sheets yourself, or request them to be cut from your supplier. I found a company on Ebay which was inexpensive and didn’t charge for cutting.

Step 2:

Start by drilling and prepping your acrylic side panels. Leave the protective film on the acrylic as long as you can. Measure 2″ from the bottom edge, and center between the sides and make a mark. Using a 1-3/8″ forstner drill bit, make a hole.

Step 3:

3/8″ from the top edge, pre-drill two holes though the acrylic and into the ends of the first wood board. Counter-bore the holes and attach the pieces with 2″ wood screws. Measure 10″ down from the bottom side of the first shelf and align your second board. Pre-drill, counter-bore and attach with screws.

Step 4:

A cool and simple way to address the exposed screw heads is to cover them with screw head caps. I found a set of matte black covers for $0.29 at local True Value.

You just simply tap them into place and the screws instantly look much better.

Step 5:

Insert the finished closet rod through the holes, leaving 1″ overhang on each end. Drill a 3/8″ hole, vertically through the rod, just outside the acrylic.

Step 6:

Use a mallet to tap wood dowel pins till centered through holes.

Step 7:

The shelf is built and ready to hang on the wall. To mount my shelf, I attached four, 3/4″ L-brackets to the wall, then placed and attached the shelf.